Due to their extreme reliability, knowing how to service a Shimano pedal is not what we'd an essential skill. That said, if you have a pair you'd like to keep using indefinitely then this is how to refresh them in less than five minutes.
I have not long ago watched this video, taken my pedals off and re-greased them as shown literally a couple of minutes ago. I cannot believe how easy it was. Thank you.
Shimano engineering at it's best, easy and reliable. These system flushes out the old grease and grime. Do this frequently and you won't need a full teardown. EVER!
Just remove the axle, clean out the centre with a clean cloth and lightly grease and reassemble. I IMHO over-packing grease is a basic noob error. You'll likely induce pedal drag and pop seals. I also wouldn't use solvents or de-greaser.
It is well worth doing, as it seems to eliminate all sorts of squeaks and groans! That you never thought were pedal related. After replacing the pedal, a pedal specific lubricant spray is another good idea. Since doing these jobs, pre and post winter, my bikes are running smoother, quieter and better. Costing nothing, for really nice returns. Thanks for the vid.
While I agree this is no substitute for a full teardown, degreasing, bearing adjustment and rebuild, this "grease replacement" is a great little way to refresh the bearings.
Which is why I suggest repeating this process twice if you want to be certain that anything nasty is out of there - if you do this a second time around, the fresh grease will begin to escape and with it, any remaining nasty stuff.
1. If you always unclip the same foot, that pedal will need service more than the other. 2. If you must mix greases, get some of the clean old stuff on a clean finger. Then get the new stuff you have and mix them between 2 fingers for 30 sec to a min. If it turns pastey grayish, gets congealed, or thickens in any noticeable way, they are definitely incompatible formulas. Don't mix them. They should just combine and not change much at all. Definitely do not mix a poly grease with a lithium or any other white grease. 3. If you're stuck with the ridiculous scam of a shimano specific fitting size, like a set of old 7800 DuraAce pedals, if you use an adjustable wrench, and do all the prepwork it's possible to get them apart. You only get one shot though. Use a vice, and KNOW which direction each thread spins. It's easy to screw up. Lastly, Ride safe. See you on the road. -Jake
Use a good quality hydrophobic grease and repeat this method 2-3 times per season and I guess the pedals will last forever. Took almost no time to do this. To take all the pedal apart and grease it takes forever. I will use this method!
What about the screw behind the hub. Mine keeps coming out which prevents my shoe from clipping in. I have to stop mid ride hammer it back in with a multitool for the pedal to grab the clip again.
Do we also need to lube spd sl tension pivots from time to time? I don’t have a tl pd40, can i use a 17mm for my older shimano 105 5700? Is there any other alternative tool i can use?
I have the M535 pedals and they have no lock ring or nut to remove the axle so how do I or remove the axle from the pedal. It has a plastic cap on the outside of the pedal only.
I've got something going on with the front of my pedal where the cleat seats I think. When I'm mashing down (short hills) there's something giving on the cleat I think, but I switch cleats, and it is still a problem with the same side, but different cleat. So it must be in the pedal, or the shoe? Bugs me!
Man, the comments here are priceless. 😂 I work at a bike shop and this procedure doesn’t bother me, par for the course, maybe I’ll strip my pedals down every 3rd time or if I’m bored, otherwise this solves the small squeaks and friction after a nasty cross season or winter training season
My good man, wiping your pedal down and then putting it that disgusting vice seems, uh, pretty funny, lol. Never mind. Great video! Nice and to the point. Subscribed. I have many of those tools you have on your wall and bench except they're not on my bench yet....working on it. Cheers!
I was reading reviews of the Park PW-4 professional pedal wrench which is 15mm. A reviewer said the wrench didn't fit his Ultegra pedals. I have been trying for more then 2 hours to get the information of what size pedal wrench is needed for Shimano Ultegra PD-6700 pedals without any success. The #6 hex allen key can be used but doesn't allow me enough leverage to get the pedals off. Looks like you can also use a pedal wrench but is too narrow to get a standard wrench on. Any tips on where this information of what the size wrench I would need can be found. The internet is good for selling you stuff but for getting specific information is much less then optimal.
Art Gallery not trying to insult you but they look like 15mm flats to me, did you get the RHT side backwards? I’ve never seen a modern pedal that has flats other than 15mm. They make specific 6mm pedal hex wrenches btw if you prefer that method
My PD ME700 started making noises after the second wash ever (no pressure washer used, just water, muc off and a sponge). Didn't realize that the locking mechanism is made from plastic and requires a special tool. Used a pair of mole grips and it ripped apart within seconds. Now I have to buy new pedals. I'm pretty disappointed tbh.
... just be careful not to touch the bearing retainer lock nut. That little blighter is made of soft cheese. If you break the thread lock you will have to reset the pre-load and the lock nut which is the most arse-achingly fiddly job you will ever encounter on a bicycle. I lost a whole weekend...
Clean it. The spring comes with packing grease on it and it eventually cakes up and seizes. There's also a hex screw in the centre of the front top of the pedal that can be loosened or tightened to allow easier exit from the pedal.
I wouldn't do this, if I've taken the pedal appart I may aswell try to get as much old grease out before putting the new stuff in. Just spray a bunch of degreaser in and use an old toothbrush. Then any leftover grease is pushed out, if there is any
I have a set of ultra road pedals that's performed flawlessly for the last 10 years that I've never taken apart, the plastic on the pedal base broke off, and bearings are still great! Not sure what the point of doing this is. Doesn't seem like it improves drivetrain efficiency
Lol you must ride in a nice place. He’s British, I’d bet he has the same issues as me in the shoulder seasons and winter. Riding in the rain, especially in winter, the entire bike gets filthy. Even on the road. Worse than a mtb really, because it’s that nasty road grime that is impossible to get totally off anything without like 3 washings
Hi, i´ve tried this method on my R8000 Ultegra pedals. I have a problem that when i put new grease inside, the pedal spins extremely rough. When the spindle is out, it spins nice and smooth (tried adjust the freeplay and nothing changed). When the spindle is back in the pedal it spins extremely rough almost hard to turn. I did not find anything similar on the internet, do you have any tips? Btw the pedals were fine before this happened, just spinned a bit faster.. Using Juice Lubes bearing juice grease. (PD-R500 pedals did this method and works lovely)..
After re-filling with new grease the pedals will not spin freely that is fine. But it should not feel rough. It may be that the rough feel is contaminants in the internals like dirt from water ingress. Best thing to do would be to take the axles out and thoroughly degrease and check for play at the bearings and re adjust before putting 1/3 the amount of fresh grease in back into the cavity of your cleaned pedal. As the video suggests the rubber weather ring may protrude out. I like to clean this too before gently pushing it back into place.
Too much grease - not according to Shimano manual ("Apply grease to the extent that it does not flow out when the axle is set into the pedal (about 1.5 g)"). Do not clean groove with spiky tool that may harm rubber seal.
I have Shimano M505 - these have neither a flat nor a plastic lockring. They have under a plastic cap at the outside of the pedal and underneath that the two nuts to adjust the cone play. Does this mean I cannot service these without a full tear down (including picking out the bearing balls)?
Ugh, bought grease lately. Less than 5 euros for a package. Package looks like a big silicon tube for those silicon pistols, anyway its a cartridge for those pistols. It has around 300g of grease in it. Now my shimano pedals costed 60 euros back then they were made. Pedals will barely use 20g of grease per service. Do the math, it will take so much years to become expensive lol that your pedals axels will bend before thar grease tube runs out of grease lol
gave this a go. managed to get one off and rounded the other one despite using a new 17mm spanner. Afterwards the one I never got off feels smoother than the one with fresh grease in. Regret that I ever watched this video.
No it isn't. because of the tight fit of the bushing in the pedal, ALL the new grease HAS to force it's way through both bearing races thus removing 98% of the old grease and leaving the pedal full of new grease.
Lol have you never greased something with a fitting? This is the same concept. Keep adding grease till it comes out clean. Just the old fashioned way because apparently it’s too inconvenient for shimano to just have a zerk fitting behind a dust cap or something 🙄
kero isn't actually the best thing to be using, unless you want to wash the axle in hot soapy water. this needs to be done as kero leaves an oily residue which needs to be cleaned off.
Wanna ruin your seal, that first one closest to the bike, just go ahead and do it this way. Thanks for ruining my weekend! I'll sure be careful on taking advice from the internet.
