Calvin puts blue grease in it. Then when tighten the pedal into the body, just some black dirty stuff comes out. I vote for full overhaul and proper cleaning. When clean grease comes out, thats the moment when I feel its allright
He is a wizard! Seriously all it takes is practice. My method is to do the cone finger tight then the locknut and finally when tightening hold the locknut still and back off the cone to it. Seems to work fine for me but again I've been working on bikes for nearly 50 years now.
Awesome video. I did my XT M8000 SPD pedals yesterday for the first time. Pedals were two years old and really easy and feel smoother. Thanks for the video...
No need for the special tool. Just use vise grip gently and it comes out easily. Re-tighten accordingly, there is not much force. Thanks for posting these videos, saved me from buying new pedals.
Parktool videos are great, except for that if they sell a specific tool for a task, they are going to advertise it and hide the ways to do it with standard tools.
So much better than other instructions that have you totally disassembling the pedal. Those little balls are a pain to put back in. So THANK YOU for making future service so much easier!
Are you kidding? Buy 'em, run 'em 'til they die, for what they cost. I have a couple pairs of 535's that are over 20 years old and haven't been able to kill them yet. Bought all the tools the service them, have yet to open up a pair of SPDs.
Very disappointed by this video, Calvin! Normally, I am a big fan of your videos and frequently share them with others. While the information you provide In this video is fine, you neglect to mention that on many Shimano SPD and SPD-SL pedals, the right pedal has left hand threads on the axle end where you adjust the cone and lock nut to make bearing adjustments. Neglecting to mention this may lead to heartache among viewers using this video to make adjustments to their pedal bearings. Calvin, I have "liked" each of your many excellent videos up until this one. Here, I feel you let down your viewers by omitting a crucial warning.
Scatman John didn't die after all. He just faked his death to become a bicycle mechanic. Seriously now, the thing with Shimano pedals vs Crank Bros was that they pretty much didn't need to be serviced. If Shimano starts going that way, well, CB pedals are way easier/faster to service.
this is actually way more detailed and thorough than shimano pedals need. If you take them apart once a year. Like just screwing the bearing unit out. Filling the pedalbody with grease and putting it back in. The old grease is flushed out and your pedals will most certainly never wear out
I like that I don't have to completely disassemble the loose bearings! Calvin's method looks more than adequate for flushing and lubing them, equals more riding time!
I think most people are just gonna buy new pedals. I have well used pedals still working fine after 15 years hard use so considering the relatively low cost I would just replace.
it was old type of pedals where all bearing can be pulled out, in normal pedals it is just needed to put some grease every year behind cover cap and all dirt will come out on opposite side
My new Ultegra pedals have a thin nut that holds the body to the spindle. The nut keeps backing out, which is really scary! It says torque to 10Nm, which I've done repeatedly. Anyone else have this problem, and know why this is happening? Wish I could talk to Shimano directly, but they make it impossible.
Park Tool obviously have to sell their products but they still think how best to help us cyclists... That colour of blue is such a bike tool symbol for Park Tools... No logo needed as we all know that blue means great, reliable tools that are priced no more than any other brand who sells good tools..
The nuts came loose inside the pedal after the adjustment. Perhaps didn’t tight them enough to lock. The pedal fell apart but the shell stayed inside the pedal’s body. Is there an easy way to remove the hub shell stuck inside the pedal? Any special pullers out there?
I've adjusted by right SPD pedal about a hundred times now and I just can't get it. If I adjust smooth w/o play it tightens down after one ride and is indexed and needs to be re-adjusted. Too loose and obviously there is a ton of play. Is this a defect? Should I just leave it with a massive amount of play?
Wish I'd seen this video a few years ago... I must have been able to save a few sets of pedals! Oh Well! I've noted that almost all the pedals I've had issues with [typically] used BALL bearings. The issues encountered are disintegrated BALLS and/or RACES. I'm guessing this is the case where you toss the pedals and buy new. Would you consider doing a general session on Pedal Designs?? BALL vs NEEDLE bearings?? What to look for and what to avoid?? SPD vs [old] LOOK vs [so-called] Lolli-pops and 'Eggbeaters'??
My "shell" got stucked with the lock nut after I opened it. Is there any way to remove it from the pedal body? Or do I need to trash it and get new pedals?
i have a tip for you. instead of using the wrench, just use your fingers. finger tighten the cone nuts and lock nuts. put your wrenches on, hold the 7mm steady and step back the cone nut. it will give the right amount of play and lock the system at the same time. the balls are small and easy to mark. use the fingers to tighten them.
Thanks for another great video for DIY, but I have two questions. 1: My left pedal seems like it causes problems where my right one works great. I do clip in/out of the left side 99.9 percent of the time when stopping. What happens is I start getting a clicking sound when the left pedal is horizontal, if I twist my foot a bit it stops. When this happens if I check for movement in the pedal shaft there is a lot of play. In the past i've just replaced the pedals as I've attempted to repack the bearings before this video and during disassembly the "O"-ring seal got destroyed and I couldn't find one the same size. 2: Is the a "rule-of-thrumb" for servicing these pedals/bearings? I live in the PNW so I do some riding in the rain. Now time to look for a video on bottom brackets as I'm noticing some play in it also. Since this is my touring bike I don't need a breakdown on the road.
This can depend on the pedal brand and the history. I would start by removing the pedals and greasing the threads then re install and tighten. Also check your cleats for tightness and wear. The wear does not typically cause clicking but it could. A lot of play can allow the bearings to come out of place and cause clicking. At that point a new set of pedals or a complete axle setup would be the best options for you.
RARELY do I ever really learn anything new in these types of videos. This one is awesome! I've been wrenching on-and-off for about 25 years, and this is very informative. I'll probably buy the TL-PD40 rebuild tool to keep in my tool-kit after seeing this. Thanks for sharing some useful knowledge! I haven't done my S-Tec training in about five years, but I still like to keep up.
My new R550's 7mm locknut keeps getting loose after every ride. I'm quite a heavy rider. Is it okay to use loctite 242 treadlocker on the 7mm lock nut?
Thread locker is fine to use there. It really should not be coming loose if jammed well up against the other nut. This is interesting. Keep us posted on results.
Hi team, how would I torque the bearing back into the pedal body? I don’t have a highly tuned arm but I do have a tw-6.2. How would I connect that for a 17mm wrench (for my ultegra 6800 pedals)? Thanks!
Is a small amount of play in the axle acceptable? My pedal is not as bad as the one in the video at 0:58, and upon disassembly, there is no play in the bearing assembly, and everything otherwise runs smoothly. Is this just normal wear?
excellent video! I was overhauling some A520 pedals and learned that the drive side pedal uses left hand threads for the cone and locknut! Unfortunately, I only figured it out after stripping the threads out of the locknut. My M520 pedal uses the standard right hand threads. Any idea why Shimano would use left hand threads for the cone & locknut on just one (or a few) models?
Calvin, that grease gun you use, is that the GG-1, without the reservoir? Does that meant that a tube of Polylube 1000 will screw right into the underside of the GG-1?
you did mention a few speciality tools during the video.. it would be nice to have a quick screenshot at the end with all the speciality tools needed.. I have a box full of pedals that need reworking and I am going to buy all the necessary tools immediately.. thanks
There is only one specialty tool required, and that is the Shimano TL-PD40. It is available on Amazon for under $6. My LBS doesn't carry these. Mine has lasted 5 - 6 years. You can use a channel lock pliers instead of the wrench. I use a headset wrench on mine, or clamp the tool in your vise.
Love the videos! While doing this the lock bolt broke in half, is there any way to remove it from the pedal body? Or do I need to trash it and get new pedals? It's a PD-M520.
Hey! Really nice video. I have followed this video but when I put the axle back in the pedal it gets really weird. Outside the pedal the bearing is really smooth and have no play. But when i put it back in the pedal the bearing feels to tight or as if the bearng is in really bad shape. How can I fix this?
That is our GG-1 Grease Gun. It comes equipped with a canister, but can also be used with our tubes of grease. www.parktool.com/product/grease-gun-gg-1
Shimano spd 520's can be found on sale for $35 a set. I simply replace mine every 2-3 years. No need to purchase special tools and go through all this nonsense.
The special tool costs around $5, so not such a big deal. I hate replacing things that are otherwise good if a little maintenance can fix it. This "nonsense" will take all of 10 minutes, generally.
The concept and service procedures of the SPD-SL pedals is much the same as in the video. Many use the Shimano tool TL-PD40. In some cases it is cone wrenches, but again the process is the same.
