Happy Birthday Josh!! Yep! I'm 6'4" 300# and I had a helper that was much like Josh, he could do the low and tight space work! We worked great together!! Just like you and Josh!! Oh, before you said how hot and humid it was, all i had to do was look at you face and could tell you were hot!! Stay cool this summer!! and safe too!
If that was my combine I would have welded those sprockets to the shaft and ordered some new ones had them on standby and get a few more miles out of those augers. But I appreciate that you're doing the job for pay and for a customer so the right way is the best way. Keep the videos coming love them
Thanks for another great video ZK. It was interesting and enjoyable. First of all wishing a Happy Birthday to Josh. Have a great day josh and have a great birthday. Thanks for the steering reset. Nice you can do that from the tractor monitor. Was interesting. Thanks. The auger replacement was a bit more than I thought. But you and josh got right after it and had it done. Nice work guys. Never seen a bearing like that with set screws. More engineering work-ha. Well anyway you got it. Thanks again for showing us the way to do it. Surprised around every corner. My compliments to ZK and josh for your fine work. You made it look easy. That set screw on the steering is really hidden. You knew where it was but a lot of us would look a long time for that. Wow. More engineering-ha. Thanks for everything ZK. The Iowa Farm Boy. Steve. Happy Birthday Josh.
Drilling off the setscrew burr works great. Done it many times. Also, the groove for the key in the shaft is the keyway, the key is what goes into the keyway. The setscrew goes into the key. Just a few details.
Happy birthday, Josh! I see Zeth's ulterior motive for bringing you along. He loves putting you on the spot in a tight squeeze. You do make a good team. Thank you for the video. Stay safe, guys and God bless.
Hey Zeth, in pulling a stubborn bearning like that on a shaft, I like to use a worm gear hose clamp to keep the arms of the puller in place. Thsnks; great video!
Yeah I’ve done that before but I didn’t have a clamp that size handy. What I really need is one of those locking three jaw pullers that forces the legs in.
yep good idea to drill into the shaft so as the set screw doesnt jigger the shaft for the next person to replace ,,, good videos from you both !! regards from essex UK
Yes I have seen that style of bearing, I think you will find that drilling through the bearing collar will be difficult because bearing material is very hsrd
As other people have noted, I'd have used a bearing separator, flat side to the bearing and then two puller bolts into a slotted cross bar puller. I also have a cross bar puller that has puller arms that lock when a load is applied, preventing any sliding, and won't open up until they're unloaded. Old school and a bit heavy, but they work really well. Snap-On used to make a puller for AC hub bearings that has cross-bolted puller arms. They won't open up either, but they're designed for stub shafts. Still worth looking into.
I’ve replaced a few of those cross augers now and I loosen the bearing flange off the sprocket side as that flange is on the inside of that plate and then loosen the set screws on the other side for the bearing and tap the auger through to the right side of the machine it normally moves just enough to expose the indents from the screws and then I can tidy up the shaft and the bearing slides right off
For bearings like that where you can't get a good grip on them with your 3-jaw, I have had good luck with a split "clam shell" style yoke. Even if you can't get it off with that tool, it sometimes gives you enough for your 3- or 4- jaw puller to gab onto.
Hey Josh, happy birthday, you better tell Zeth that he needs to buy you a decent chocolate for getting intro those impossible places for him ! Good job Zeth, go green team.
Good idea on drilling out the set screw dimple. Shooting the hole full of lube after you drill it out and before you pull it helps too. I have had good luck using a bearing splitter on the back side of that style of bearing and hooking onto that with my puller. It tends to stay more square even if the back of the bearing isn't, can be a bit of a goat-rope getting it all threaded together but once it's on it does the deal.
19:06 Your drill idea has merit. Just keep in mind you may need to drill larger than the existing hole. I can't see what style set screw is in there... but they are seldom anything other than a blunt end. So the knurling extends beyond the screw diameter. Drill bits frequently raise a burr too. I know for a fact that shaft would have three flat spots on it before I installed another bearing though.
Yer old case 2100 series used those bearings I don’t even worry about air hammers I just use a Bering splitter tool those claw pullers are crap as you found out the fall off
I believe if manufactures put thing together with ant seize, We wouldn't have issues taking things apart !! Your drilling has merit , But what if you find out you can't get a new auger and have to install new ribbons it. I have done many over the years. I like to use my 8 point sockets for the square headed bolts. They were more common with machines from the 60's to 80's. I had a similar turn issue with a older 2 wheel drive tractor , After increasing the the steering pressure that made steering much better.
I had to do a rear cross auger on an X9 one time. Its a super easy job but john deere has manufacturing issues with the augers so I ended up having to repeat the job twice due to the new auger having build quality issues.
I think you'll find it was the fit of the shaft to the bearing that was tight; a couple of grub screws that size won't beat a puller. Sometimes a little heat can help, but normally those types are easy enough to get off, and are very standard on machines ( if not JD combines! ). I regularly replace them in very corrosive areas on shafts of many sizes, some upwards of 80mm. EC style bearings ( eccentric collar ( or "knocker"! )) can be brutal to get off as well... You can also back the screws right out and put a little penny oil in the holes while you have coffee 😂
I drive that type of bearing further onto the shaft, and then file the dimples off and emery the shaft clean. The bearing then usually slides off by hand. Not intuitive but I have changed a lot of bucket elevator bearings this way.
Weld the old ones on the shaft and send it lol good job all. Not sure why the farmer couldn't of done that job. Might of saved a couple thousand on laber. Lol
When I can't remove a bearing with a puller in a situation like that, and I know it will be replaced, I tend to weld a piece of tube to that bearing, and weld a nut on the other side, and run a big bolt through it. same principle, but you have some heat and it's a fixed connection😉 certenly when you have a flange or sprocket on a cone shaped axle, those are a b*tch to get loose!😫
Nothing related to this but we are wanting to drain hydraulic fluid from a s670 and book only says to drain reservoir. We are wanting to drain system to put fresh fluid in. It’s at 2000 hours so any tips on where to drain whole system or is it just better to drain reservoir like book says. Thanks
for the cross augers. what happens when the sprocket teeth get worn down, will you buy the farmer the augars, since you LOC tightened so sprocket won't come off?
Why not put new stub shafts on the flighting looked good on the augers yes you would have to make up a jig also could have had sprocket machine out n had a bushing installed maybe JD come up with upgrade you hit them 2 screws on that sprocket with a hammer to seat them in then tighten them some let's try to save the customer some money n look at quality in the equipment .
A machinist could have fixed that shaft in a couple hours... very simple connection... I cringed a bit when you cut the end off with the gas axe, was a totally serviceable part, maybe still is.
To me the pulley attachment method is piss poor. I’d rather see a splined shaft with a slight taper and better (tighter) tolerances instead of a key and two set screws.
Hola Zeth como estás? Necesito una ayuda con un 8400 de la vieja escuela. Voy a la direccion 22 de la pcu para calibración y me dice Error. Tengo el código pcu 058. El sensor de rueda me manda la señal a la pcu. Cambié la pcu y sigue en lo mismo, que otro factor me puede estar causando ese "Err" en la dirección 22 de pcu? Cualquier ayuda es bienvenida. Soy fiel seguidor de tu canal, buen trabajo Alejandro de Uruguay saludos
Thanks for watching the channel. Check the park brake pressure switch and the wheel speed sensor. CCU 13 center digit is the park brake pressure switch. CCU 5 is the wheel speed sensor.
