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Session # 1 Wintering in Very Cold Climates (Honey Bees) (Zoom Presentation) 

Etienne Tardif
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Link to Presentation: drive.google.c...
Winter up here in the Yukon is like one of those Ultra Marathon races, the hives need to be well nourished, healthy and properly housed to be able to survive 7 months from October to sometime in April. My goal is to cover my approach and my trials over 2 or 3 articles. Over the last 7 years I have lost 3 hives in late winter out of 30. These 3 hives had severe dysentery which likely spread Nosema C throughout the population. I have also lost one hive in late spring from a rapidly declining hive from Nosema C. I will cover the reasons and show you how even those winter losses were preventable.
I will start by saying that “All Beekeeping is Local” however bee biology and physics is universal. Every beekeeper needs to develop the skills and knowledge to filter information and learn to apply it to their local environments. One can do this by developing a set of filtering questions for every piece of advice from other beekeepers, bee books, Facebook or one of the many beekeeping forums.
Where/Who is the advice coming from?
• Weather/Seasons/Timing
• Forage/Dearths/Quality
• Isolated/Populated/Rural/Urban
• Years of experience
• Number of hives
• Success rates
Ask them why they think it works?
• Supported by science, trials, research
• Be wary of anecdotal sayings and expressions
This is where my story really begins. I now have 3 simple bee rules that I follow and continuously look at improving. (1) Bees need food; (2) Bees need to be healthy and numerous; (3) Bees need a dry home. I no longer prepare for winter in the fall. I manage my hive from spring to late fall in a way that ensures the bees will be in the best position to deal with all of the year round stressors.
In very cold climates (sub-arctic), we typically only get one chance to get things right during the season, one chance at getting the bees ramped up to healthy populations, one chance to make a swarm split, one chance at getting a honey harvest, one chance to maximise the number of healthy winter bees going into the winter. Our season runs from early May to early September. In that time we squeeze in a short swarming season early June, one minor nectar flow mid to late June, one major nectar flow mid-July to early August. Winter bees get raised from early August which coincides with 1st frosts at higher elevations. We typically have 2 dearths running from early July and then from middle of August.

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20 авг 2024

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Комментарии : 20   
@pomicultorul
@pomicultorul 4 года назад
I am half way through this presentation (just discovered it) but already feel the need to comment: excellent quality, both content and delivery. Thank you for investing so much time and effort!
@UTsnowsailor
@UTsnowsailor 9 месяцев назад
Second year beekeeper in northern Utah... Thank you for an excellent video. Learned so much 🙏
@bradkkimberlin2000
@bradkkimberlin2000 3 года назад
Wanted to say thank you for taking the time to put this on RU-vid last year the bees were in the winter shed 180 days I'm up north of you A lot of the stuff you are showing Iv seen in my hives and didn't know what I was looking at
@honeydropfarm1605
@honeydropfarm1605 2 года назад
Continuing my note-taking... Insulation reduces honey consumption, therefore (1) less risk of starvation, (2) less risk of dysentery due to less ash buildup in the gut, and (3) less condensation due to less water intake! Genius!! I had already reasoned my way through to points (1) and (2), but number (3) never occurred to me.
@Yukehomestead
@Yukehomestead Месяц назад
Very helpful thank you
@markreynolds7
@markreynolds7 2 года назад
Thank you very much for posting this and offering your knowledge for free! These lectures have really clarified a lot of the "noise" out there when it comes to beekeeping. Thank you again!
@etiennetardif6552
@etiennetardif6552 2 года назад
You're very welcome!
@honeydropfarm1605
@honeydropfarm1605 2 года назад
More note taking... If you make sure the drafts of cold air only happen at the bottom of the hive (eg screened bottom board, no upper entrance/ventilation, good seal under the lid), then the bees' warm moist breath will only condense under the cluster. Therefore they won't get wet. It also helps to put extra insulation on top of your lid, so that the condensation happens on the cold walls rather than the warm ceiling. In other words: you can CHOOSE where you allow the condensation to happen! So make sure it happens below the bees, not above them where it will rain down on them!
@honeydropfarm1605
@honeydropfarm1605 2 года назад
I'm taking notes. They lose 15-25% more heat off the top... that's a good nugget to remember...
@peterdetchon
@peterdetchon 2 года назад
This is fascinating to me. I have exactly the same problem in reverse. Where I keep bees it gets extremely hot. Sometimes the hives are standing on a ground temp of 55 C with air temp of 45C, no shade and access to water 100m away. As you note the laws of Physics are universal, and I have assumed I need to apply exactly the same management as you do. Correct?
@etiennetardif6552
@etiennetardif6552 2 года назад
I would say it is worth a try. They (insulated hives) are used in Australia for the exact opposite reason, help reduce the cooling load. Having moved from Yellowknife NT (-40C) to Perth WA (+40C) a few years back and then back to the Yukon... I appreciate the value of insulation in homes under both conditions. Using extra insulation on top would also be one of my recommendation to reduce solar heat radiation/conduction from top to inside the hive...
@honeydropfarm1605
@honeydropfarm1605 2 года назад
I built my own poly nuc boxes out of that rigid pink insulation, I will email you a picture to the address on your "About" tab. I coated them with a very runny mix of modified thinset to make them tough and hard.
@timothymitchell8310
@timothymitchell8310 2 года назад
Nice video and I’m so excited about the possibilities . Are you using moisture detectors because, I’m trying to figure out how that you determine moisture death probabilities?
@etiennetardif6552
@etiennetardif6552 2 года назад
I do have a few sensors that measure relative humidity. I can then calculate the dew point relative to the air temperature and visualize where condensation could occur. In my setup where I only allow lower entrance fresh air ventilation and an open screened bottom to manage the draining of any excess condensing water, I just let the bees be bees... I no longer use any moisture/condensation wicking material in my colonies.
@maggiewatte7911
@maggiewatte7911 Год назад
I’m just clarifying, do you remove the sliding board on screened bottom in winter?
@etiennetardif6552
@etiennetardif6552 Год назад
Yes... I leave the bottom open during winter. It opens up into a protected "crawl space". Ensure that all condensation will flow out of the colony. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-dQYJFvDXHpA.html
@maggiewatte7911
@maggiewatte7911 Год назад
@@etiennetardif6552 thank you !
@honeydropfarm1605
@honeydropfarm1605 2 года назад
I'm not an engineer, how do you measure/calculate the watts of heat lost by a cluster?
@honeydropfarm1605
@honeydropfarm1605 2 года назад
Just to be 100% clear, you are only wintering outdoors, right? Not in a shed?
@honeydropfarm1605
@honeydropfarm1605 2 года назад
I tried to go look at your facebook group but it wasn't viewable
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