Setting A Tool Post Grinder (The MrCrispin Way) 

Glad you had faith in me! LoL!

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Just suspend the grinder shaft between centers between tail stock and chuck then adj the mount bolt housing (small sqare head bolt allows the stud sleeve to slide up and down) so that it sets securely on the compound tool post mount and tighten the mount nut . That sets tool height and 0 angle to the chuck at same time. This is all assuming that your tail stock is centered with your chuck(if not you have bigger issues any way) Clear as mud? lol Great video i have 3 of those grinders. One still in the original fold up metal storage box. Very handy! @@MrCrispinEnterprises

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High praise!

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Yes the comments have been very good

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Thanks, it's surprising how many people say that.

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Thanks Dave

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Thanks. Yes my hat is looking in good shape considering the number of times it has landed in the swarf tray!

Many thanks and glad to have you watching

Very clever.

Was that a multi joint flexible type? If it was then I agree. This indicator is held on a single steel bar less than 4" long.

@@MrCrispinEnterprises Ah, yes -- most of the worst of it was those well-known multi-joint single-clamping-knob things. I agree with your instincts about the short bar. Were it me, I would probably check it anyway, on a cold winter's day when there was nothing else to do... :) Cheers! Always love your vids.

It's definitely an interesting topic. I'll have a think

Interesting!

Interesting thoughts . I can see that being more of an issue if the stylus was strait out rather than in the true to face position. I'll do some testing.

I have done that demo with people who have been machining for decades. And then watch them try to count the jobs where this would explain the problems they had.

Yes I have encountered that problem when aligning lathe tail stocks in the vertical direction. Also had the problem when using an Indi-Cal tool with a DTI bore tool which gave different readings top to bottom vs bottom to top. The DTI was a Tesa .0001. The Indi-Cal setup is pretty rigid and I think some of the variation might come from the DTI internals itself which I verified by turning it over without being in a bore and seeing the variation. I thought the DTI might be damaged in some way but it is fine otherwise. I just switched to other bore measuring tools.

Went on to check the lathe cross slide and it's gib. Yes, it is bent. I de-bent as much as I could, now it's on the 0.05mm feeler gauge realm, so maybe that will be made flat by scraping. I re-scraped the cross slide table to a horizontal co-planar to the top, it was good, but already showed some wear after 3 years I'm using it since I scraped it flat at first. I noticed that the gib is a little undersized on the vertical plane: it stands shy about 0.3mm (1/80") of the cross table reference horizontal surface. In my understanding/readings, I think this has to be flush. Will glue with rubberized loctite a brass shim strip, then machine to size. I also checked the lathe carriage cross slide dovetails: they are not perpendicular, they start at thinnest, then go up 13 microns (0.013mm), up to 35 microns, then back to some 28 microns (1 thou). No way to know if this is angle'ing left, right or both. I can only tell they are not parallel enough. Since I know my chinese 1000x320 lathe is somewhat unperfect, I'm considering putting the cross table on the Schaublin milling machine, then indicating it's outer side, then skimming the parallel side dovetail (it's 60 degrees). Then I can rest assured that one side is good enough, than do the scraping on the carriage side of this dovetail. Then re-measuring it's width, I'll be probably going get readings on the tapered gib side only, since the fixed side should be fine now. Wow, that's a lot of work, that hopefully will give me better results. Since my lathe was not that far off when I did the face grinding, I'm guessing the conical shape I ground has to be caused either by the ends flexing up because of the center bolt single point of pressure, or maybe the toolpost grinder can have rotated a bit by the cutting forces, but I should have checked for that before dismounting it from the lathe. The drill press vise I gave a hand scrape treatment. It's really low quality cast iron, much more difficult to scrape than the lathe cross table. The bolts that press the parallel gibs were at different heights and some of them have poked holes on the flattened surfaces, which I'll plug fill with brass (or maybe cast iron), then level. I am getting much better at scraping, reaching a better number of contact points per inch and a much more constant scraping pattern. Carbide blade sharpness is the (king) way to go! I think I might have scraped some 5 square feet (about half square meter).

Top marks, you clearly understand the geometry. What you may not know is that I am planning to grind with the face of the wheel as well as the periphery.

@@MrCrispinEnterprises ahhh that is the missing piece of information i did not catch. Then the alignment makes perfect sense. When using my toolpost grinder I have only used the side of the wheel, therefore never had the need for "tramming" the grinder. I'. look forward to what comes up in the next video.

Thats a Mitutoyo that I got on ebay a few years back.

Thanks for the tip

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I'll have a look. The one at the front near the spindle is to hold the wheel guard on.

I wondered that

Thanks Melvyn. I think I'm going to have to cover this topic of indicator droop in another video.

More is to be revealed!

Yes I think you've got it. There's no trig it's just a case of making it sit on the surface grinder at the reverse of what I measured on the lathe. I referred to the angular error as the 'run'

It's the best way! Cleaning swarf, oil and dirt.

Fixturing for which element?

@@MrCrispinEnterprises as in the toolpost grinder is attached to a QCTP holder, perhaps not as rigid ?

Oh I see. Yes that would not be very rigid. Perhaps some adapter could made to mount it to the main tool Post centre rather than having it in a holder.

You won't go wrong with one of those!

@ Steve W someone's been watching Cutting Edge Engineering Australia with covetous eyes!

@@samrodian919 Actually I was privileged to operate one in the toolroom at Cummins Engine Company.

Just put a Rolls Royce jet engine at one end of the lathe and blow the dust away as you grind!

I think the Rolls-Royce approach is to do grinding on a grinding machine!

Thanks. I work as a Process Developer in a large machine shop that does turbine components. Grinding is my main focus.

@@MrCrispinEnterprises interesting. I have been forced to move because of legal issues with my brother and my ex. We just moved my old grinders. A brown & sharpe OD//ID grinder and G&L surface grinder. I forgot how heavy these were!!!! I also need to think about moving my wadkin pattern lathe and small Wadkin pattern mill (LQ). These are in England!!!! I saw you posts on moving. I can appreciate the work. It will be a shill before I get back into steam engines. Got to timber frame a new shop. Keep up the good work.

If me leaning on it is a problem then I hate to think what the machining forces will do!

Indeed. In this operation however I also need to use the face of the wheel. (typical dished wheel)

@@MrCrispinEnterprises With face grinding , you may have to shim the base of the grinder to get the criss cross pattern . There is a point just before the wheel req's re dressing that you get the best surface finish . It takes a bit of practice to get to know that point . Also i found to dis regard everything you know about cylindrical grinding when using the TPG to get the best results !

Yes it is a problem. My plan is to lay a few damp rags over it.