Mugen Seiki Racing's Adam Drake shows how to set brake linkage, brake dead-band, and overall brake force. www.mugenracing.com www.thedrakeracing.com / adamdrake117
Been racing RC for a few years, and I know quite a bit. But I ALWAYS learn something new from you vids. Measuring the brake deadban for consistency is genius. Thanks again!!
Thanks to this video I learned that you can adjust the brake bias by turned the set screw knobs to thread the rod in and out. I had no idea! I’ve been disconnecting and cutting fuel tube for ages
Thanks Adam! I really appreciate all these videos. I have been in the hobby for a very long time but still find a few tips and tricks. I have definitely been in the camp of using too much brake force and was looking for a video to see what others were doing. So glad I came across your video! Thanks again! Loving my OS AD2. Please know that you are appreciated!
Awesome video Adam. As I’m learning to drive faster and faster on the track, I need to use my brakes more and knowing how to set them up and adjust them to my liking is super helpful
Thanks Adam I’ve been working on my brake game…. The dead band part never knew how to measure. I’ve been using less brake and more of a roll onto than the flick.
I found a way of putting a number on brake force. I use a small hand held torque wrench with a 17 mm socket. I first set my dead band with a feeler gauge at the same way Adam did. I then set my endpoint to 100% for the max brake force. Usually i set it so it's just enough to lock the wheels. I then make sure the bias is 50/50. After i all i need to do is lower my epa for the grip conditions. This way I am sure everything is perfect and always the same. I then tune the bias with the thumbscrews. it works pretty good.
Great video. Two suggestion videos. First about parts we need for racing like spare parts to have in home and to have on the races. 2 A video showing the necessary tools and acessories for setup our cars and use during race. Those videos we be helpful principally for new people interesting in race
Great info! Especially the total brake force (epa). That's a tuning situation I think doesn't get talked about enough, and I feel it can make or break a good handling car pun intended lol. Good video🏎💨💯💪💪👊👊👍👍
From your previous video on brakes you used little springs. The link no longer exists can you please share where you get the springs currently? Thank you, great videos!
I just remembered my old futaba 3vc had anti lock braking in the menu and would Pump the servo . I wonder if the new radios still have that feature? I will Have yo Check my 7xc. It seems like it would work well with the latest HRS servos .
Hi Adam! Quick question - for the 170BL servos... They are very difficult to rotate when the power is off. I don't see any sort of fail safe rubber band on the servo yet. Do you add one for these servos? I just purchased one servo to see if I would like to place in all my vehicles, but I am worried about a situation where receiver battery power is lost with the throttle slightly open. The typical rubber band I use isn't strong enough to close.
Had a question for the brake disc , I use a scotch brite to clean up the disc when I’m doing a service, but how long do disc last ? Or when to replace is there a rotor thickness ?
Thanks for this video ! About the air filter, is it the TLR241039 (for 8X) or the LOSA9150 (for 8T / 8B) ? Bought the TLR241039 but it does not fit as it touch the black plastic piece that protect the fuel tank Thanks
When doing the brake bias test with the rubber band, do you ever get a rough feeling out of the brakes? Like they're warped? Mine feel as far from smooth as possible. What could cause that? The only thing i could find on it was stuff about full scale cars and the pad material being unevenly embedded onto the rotor
When you set the throttle EPA, you said it has a 6.5mm venturi. We know the carb will close past the venturi when at idle so this would also mean that if you measure the opening with the throttle throw at 6.5mm, it wouldn't completely clear the venturi at full throttle due to the thickness of the venturi. Would this be of any concern since the throttle never actually reaches that fully open position?
Yes, when setting the throttle linkage and carb opening, I considered the idle gap 0 or 0% throttle. Then open it to the venturi size (6.5mm), it may not be prefect, but gets you in the ballpark without having to remove the filter and the risk of dirt getting into the carb.
But Adam Drake my EPA for brake is only for both front & rear on my DX5C...the other EPA is for carburetor end points..how do i adjust the brakes separately from the front and rear?
Thanks For the great videos as usual. I was hoping to find a video of run on for nitro. Fairly new and last race my car felt like it was accelerating at every corner when I needed to slow down and it was pushing me way out. Ugh. Any help would be highly appreciated.
Bottom end is too rich. Lean it out and lower the idle as needed. JQ has a great hour long video on how to tune an engine and addresses run on and how to fix it perfectly.
I've noticed this on Adams Buggy in several recent videos too. Massive amounts of toe out up front. Probably looks exagerated because it is up on a box as well.
It’s not much toe it, it’s mostly bump steer, when the car is at full droop it looks like a lot, but when you set it on the table it’s probably about -2° of toe out.
Hey man. Just some unsolicited feedback, we can’t see the other side of the calipers. Videos that are foolproof stand out. Sorry, but had to speak my truth.
@@AdamDrake Anytime, big dawg. Just a minor misunderstanding that I had. However, I was still able to make adjustments because I kind of understood the point. Thanks!
