Setup Basics 

My problem is im trying to turn a basher, TLR typhon into a race buggy. 3.670g no wheels, body.., heavy. The shock shafts are 4mm instead of 3.5mm, good for bashing terrible for loose low grip dust surface...

What if you have front a rear skid plates? Do i measure in front/back of them because they add thickness to the chassis

This is about my Mugen starter box I am using two 2s lipos 30 c 4000mah is that enough power

Hello Adam Sorry for this left field question... I apologize for my ignorance. Are you or have you considered the popular GT8(onroad converted off-road buggies) class? If so, do you have setup ideas to help with push(common in GT8) in the corners? Best wishes 😊

Hi Adam, car dying whilst coming back to idle from power is too rich ? Thanks!

Best wing and body for ebuggy? Thanks adam

Not all legends are myth.. Some race amongst us 🏎️💨 Always a pleasure seeing you @ LCRC. Stay well 💪🏻

Hello great video information Adam

A tip I have learned for setting ride height is to make sure the tires have a little dirt/dust on them as if they don't, they can cause the car to stick to the setup board thus giving you a misread-on ride height. This is especially true with new tires. I too use the drop roll method that you suggest Adam to prevent the board stick but a little dust on the tires helps as well. As always thanks for the tips and reminding us of how important the basics are!

All these people around with Phones is ridiculous..

And something I learned from first hand experience is that the front ride height changes 3mm from a full tank of fuel to an empty tank of fuel.

You might need to replace you’re chassis lol. You said b block is 25mm and d block is 26mm and then you checked c block and said is 2mm different

You nailed it, great video! Buggy looks awesome as always. I like to check ride height with dirty tires. It helps the tires slide on the setup board throughout the suspension articulation. I like to lightly tap the setup board 4-5 times to help the buggy level out to a happy ride height (or drop and roll as shown in your video). It's kind of important for the front end since pillow ball cars tend to have more track width change throughout the suspension throw compared to a c-hub car. Thanks for sharing.

Dear Adam! Your rear link length measures are done with the mid-large position in the tower? If you go up or down in the tower, that measure must be change to correct canvas. How much more or less you change in each case? Hope to be clear enough!! Thank you

Your car looks so awesome. I wish I had your car so bad.

What camber link measurements on truggy

👍

Mister, your videos are SOOOO awesome.... keep shining!

I'm glad you mentioned about ride height and checking at no, mid and a full fuel tank. In my head I always think a half filled tank would be better but as you said being consistent would be painful.

Love this! Awesome info! Thank you Adam. 🤘🏽

I have always checked rear ride height at the c block for consistency as the chassis wears down but makes sense it would read a bit lower

Thanks for the info 👍

Can I use the MIP1 hi flow bypass piston kit and just leave the six holes that it comes with alone without drilling them and what flaps, should I use what valves what in the front and what in the rear is green in the front and blue in the rear of a good set up

I am running into a small issue with my mbx8r eco - the pin that holds the shocks on the table keeps getting out, I have not used the kit that much ( 4 races ). any advice ?

Thanks Adam. When you measure your camber/steering links are you measuring total link or exposed turnbuckle?

Do you set ride height first or last?

Adam question! Do you set your ride height first then camber and toe? Or opposite? Or does it matter?

Thank you very much 👍

Thank you.