Exactly how it should be done, settle and then snugged up the fork. There is a wealth of tuning advice in this short clip and I am glad he mentioned the spring rate and the fact that you MUST change the springs to suit the rider weight AND riding style. For instance I run my tires at the low end pressure recommendation which means my springs and damping are quite different to someone running tires much harder. Rider weight has a huge effect on this too as he said.
Best suspension advice video on RU-vid. Just set my 04 zx10 using these sag recommendations and it was perfect on recent track day. 29 mm of static and 41mm with rider. Bike felt much better. I ended up using almost all my available fork travel (used zip tie to check). Bike felt like it turned much better and more importantly held the line which it hasn't done before(used to drift wide when getting back on the throttle). I had the front set too high in its travel before which meant the bikes geometry was all wrong. Don't make the mistake of having too much front preload if you aren't already bottoming the forks all the time , it just slows the bikes ability to turn.
superb, now i have taken umbrage with a few people who have changed my wheels about the way they sequence tightening the front wheel, and also the rear wheel, monkey see monkey do, without understanding what they are doing. Anyway i've just undone the front wheel and redid everything but bounced the front end to settle it (as opposed to using the front brake) and the front end is moving a lot better and smoother, with minimal input. this is a must watch video.
After tightening the pinch bolts, tie the front brake closed, then loosen and retorque the caliper bolts. This ensures realignment of the pads to the rotors. Always mark your pads to be able to return them to where they came from. Elevate the wheel and check for drag by spinning. Thanks
I want to know where the rebound and compression klicker is supposed to be when you messure sag. Is it suppose to be in the stock 12 clicks out "for example" or is it supposed to be all the way out so it dosent interfer whit the sag messurment!?
If the bike needs to Be lowered in order to accommodate the riders height . What would be the best way to go about it ? Lowering links or lowering the rear coil over under the seat?
I have a question about the front forks when installing tires.... In the video you say after jouncing the bike to tighten the "right" side 2 allen bolts.... What about the elft hand side? When should those get tightened or would the left side stay slightly loose until the right aide is tight??? Thanks in advance Greg
After you slide the axle back in with wheel in place you then tighten the left side bolts up to correct torque spec. Next, you press down on the bars a few times to ensure forks goes into proper alignment. Once aligned, you then tighten the right side bolts up to correct torque spec. Job done.
8:43 OMG, buyer's remorse! I am the one who weighs only 61 kg! I came to this video after a few hours of frustration having been unable to achieve the 35-45mm difference recommended on my new Bitubo shock for my Vespa Sprint 150S.
R Sex hehe Wouldn't the suspension sag from rider weight vary according to how much total travel there is as well? I would have thought it would be a certain percentage of total travel...
Correct me if I am wrong, but I reckon it should be set to the standard settings as specified on the manual and from there on based on rider requirements adjust rebound and damping.
Rebound and compression doesn't effect sag. They effect how fast the shock can move up or down. Adjust preload to achieve desired sag. Your baseline is with the rear tire off the ground so preload won't effect you establishing that number.
Ok I understand how to measure it, but the video is called "setting suspension sag", so now what? What's the difference between too much and too little?
Yes and no. If your measurements with rider sag are within limits than it is OK. If your rider sag is out of the limits you have to change the spring as he said.
@@dst-a-nen On my touring bike I have static 380mm when on its own weight 400... with me on the top is 420mm, should I be reading 430mm? That means that the preload is little bit too high for static and dynamic? Am I right? Pozdrav
I got RT & his crew at kiwi suspension systems to install Ohlins to my bike front & rear 2012 VRod, My bike rides & handles better than new, strongly recommend for u to take your bike to KSS.
Lets say you have with no rider suspension drops on it's own weight 30mm measured . When you sit it goes 24mm down more with rider. Static and dynamic= Bike weight- Bike weight with rider. Got that?
30mm of static sag on the forks, + 10 to 15mm more with the rider, that means 45mm of sag... Its confusing because every other publication talks of up to 35mm of sag for street ride, and 10mm is a big difference.... Is he correct or did he make a mistake? He never actually mentions the total sag we are looking for on the forks
I just bought a set of 2017 Ohlins FGRT forks and the manual calls for front static sag of 15-30mm and 35-50mm of sag WITH rider. Seems like newer forks have wider range than previous models.
For street ,rider with full gear. 30mm-35. On track 25mm -30mm. Rebound should bounce back right away. No bouncing around. That what I follow on my bike.
And you don't mention a thing about how to get to those target sag settings if you happen to fall outside of those measurements! Add preload? Firm up the compression or rebound dampening? you don't mention a thing about actually setting anything.
