I just bought my first piece of "British Iron" a 1966 triumph T-120 bobber. Your videos are great. Very infomative and easy to follow. Just wanted to say thanks for helping everyone.
Thanks mate, it’s been about 45 years since I’ve adjusted tappets. I’m working on a 1971 Tiger 750. All I need to do is find the correct gaps for that model. I think exh is 8 thou & inlet is 4 or 6. But I’ll look it up before going ahead with full confidence thanks to this video. I like the accent too. From an Australian.
Brings back memories of my '71 650 Tiger. Bought it from a guy who had it on his back porch. Hadn't run in months. Painted the porch ceiling and didn't even bother to cover the bike! He kicked it once and it roared to life. This was 1979 so it was 8 years old or so. Paid 650 dollars American for it. Bought a new 6V battery and took it on a trip that weekend! Loved that bike. Quit riding though. Don't want to hurt myself in a crash. Great vid!
+Kurtis S Hi Kurtis :-) glad to be of help, I can't believe its been 7yrs since I uploaded this. I've done a few miles since then! Another way to set tappets is on the same cam, get one valve open/down and set the other. cheers.
Hi lunmud great work it makes sense when they say on the rock in the hayes manual thanks for the video was very clear and the sound was good you could actually hear the valves click these bikes (triumph) are a rare breed and should be brought back to life and with your video"s you will make my triumph trident live a other 40 years i hope to see more keep them coming it is a good training tool for the in experinced and the intersted and a bike that you have to carry a tool kit D-man
Hi I agree with all below, I have learned a lot from you - thanks - I will contribute this - a drum tuning key (a musical instrument, despite what some may say) is a nice tool for holding the rod in place whilst you tighten the nut ! (Premier Drums of course).
Hi mazidesign I'm glad you found my vids handy :-) It makes all the hassle making them, worth it, Your Bonnie is the same year as mine '72, though its '73 on paperwork :-(
Hi lunmad, you adjust the valves as a pair one exhaust valve all the way down adjust the other exhaust, the same with the inlets, this is the way that triumph tell you how to do the job. I have just read my Triumph owners manual again incase I was wrong. This little manual I bought with my Thunderbird in 1966 the manual is correct, Im getting on so is my memory but not that bad. :0)
I really enjoy watching your videos and they have really helped me on a complete teardown and restoration however this method did cause me some problems. After using this method i had to use all of my weight to budge the kickstarter. It would start immediately but would not stay running. After running a few minites by holding the throttle open in 35 degree weather the right header pipe started glowing. Checked the valves again and they are way off from the original (too tight) luckily it did not burn my valves. I then read the manual and saw their way. The kicker was so tight that it spun the nut off of the kick start ratchet and rendered it and the clutch useless leaving me to walk my bike home, fortunately only 2 blocks. I am waiting on a new gearbox cover gasket and tab washer so I can see if the manuals way is an improvement.
Hi John, :-) I'm glad you enjoy my vids. There is no way setting tappets now matter how you set them will cause gear box and clutch problems. The kick starts can jam when the teeth do not line up first time, either rocking the bike or light prods on the kicker usually helps. This way of setting valves does work, but the easy way is to get one exhaust fully open and set the other, then do the same with the inlets. Glowing exhausts usually point to incorrect ignition timing, tight tappets make it hard to start, if it will
Great video, very helpful, thanks mate. I have a 66 with the individual inspection caps so a real pain to get the feeler gauge in. It never occured to me to come in from the side..doh
Hi Alan :-) cheers, the big inspection covers do make adjusting easier. Doing them by feel easier still. A false reading can happen if valve tops or rockers are worn as the feeler can bridge the gap.
lunmad - I hope you know how lucky you are to be able to just slide the feeler gauges in like you do. On my '70 TR6R, there are two (2) round, separate openings - front and back - I have to use to set the adjusters. They can be a real pain to set the gap in them.
Wow great explanation of adjusting the valves, would it be the same settings for a 67 tiger. And im assuming might be a little harder. Where i have four screw on caps, covering the valves, not as much room to adjust as you had. Also primary chain adjuster on 67 tiger, do yo tight the adjuster to take up slack, and is that set for 3/8"
Thanks so much for your informative videos taff ! you deserve an OBE for your endeavours (order of British engines) cheers mick expat pom living in Oz ! many a time i've refered to your tips, ill shout you a round if we ever catch up !
HI Trapper100 thanks for the positive comment :-) as you can see, I have the 2 long inspection covers so the job is easier to do, than on earlier Triumphs with the 4 round inspection caps. Shims are great but can cost to adjust them :-(
indeed. referenced this today as we worked on my T100 67 Daytona. All was going well until one of the screws to adjust the tappet snapped off. Not an original Triumph part we think, a brassy looking insert with an allan key adjustment. We will replace all 4 with original parts! thanks Lunmad, hope you're well.
Can I ask you a tec question? is for a 71 T120 (OIF), clutch crunching when going into 1st gear during a ride? do the clutch plate springs need turning in or out? increase or decrease, what's your suggestion please.
Here's a funny question: If... one valve cover on my T110 head is shallower on the inside than the others (it's entirely different) will it affect the running due to a possible pressure offset/difference etc?
Do 650 Triumphs spray a lot of oil at idle with the covers off? I'd like to see if mine are oiling okay. Seems pretty dry in there compared to car rockers.
Hi Lunmad, great video (and all others too as they are a fabulous resource), but I have been confused as this method differs from the manuals I have which set outlets R & L followed by the inlets - I assume this is done because of the cam design? why do you choose this way as on the video rather than in accord with the manual?
Hi Alan :-) thanks, I should not of showed this way really as the one down set the other is easy. The way I show here can be used on 4 cyl 2up 2down motors ie you would get #8 valve down and set #1 #7 vale down and set #2 just get them to add upto 9, it was a habit I picked up working on other motors, sorry for the confusion.
Wrong. If the left inlet is down, you set the RIGHT INLET. Feeler gages are only useful on new engines. Once it runs for a while, a small divot is worn into the valve stem. It's best done by feel.
Hi Kim, NOT WRONG just DIFFERENT. This is a way of doing a multi cylinder when you cannot see the cam but know the firing order. Take a 4cyl you would get #1 valve down then set #8, then #2 down and set #7 always add together as 9 and just go down the line until they are all done. I have since done other vids doing it the way you say.
There is right and wrong. If you aren't right, different is wrong. Would your technique work with a 180 crank? Or a 270? But who cares..... this is about a TRIUMPH with a stock crank.
I recently did my valve clearances twice, once after putting the head back on after trying to cure a leaking push rod tube and then re-torquing the head after a heat cycle. I looked at doing it like the video and the way in the manual, that is with one inlet fully open you adjust the other inlet valve that is closed and then the same idea for the exhaust valves. If you set them as illustrated here, it is not the same as doing it per the manual, if you check your clearances in both positions. I think when done this way the opposing valve is sitting on a ""quietening ramp" part of the cam not the base of the lobe with the valve at minimum lift when doing it per the manual. Depending on your cam it may come out pretty near, but I agree with you, I don't believe you can be getting the correct setting doing it this way. The cam has two lobes, one for each valve, and they are exactly opposite one another - so the manual technique makes sense, if one valve follower is on the peak of the cam, the other is on the base. I'm a huge fan of Lumad's videos, I've found them a great help in getting orientated to some of the quirks on these British motorcycle engines that I've not previously encountered on the many Japanese bikes I've worked on. They are pretty simple to work on once you've adjusted your thinking to how they do things. On this occasion though I don't believe this is how you should set your valve clearances.
Does someone knows if this procedure is the same for a TR6 from 1969? This engine looks a bit different from mine. Rocker boxes are different, so I don't know if the procedure is the same... In the manual the procedure is a bit different and I'm not confident I'm doing it correctly. Hints please...
+BlindPink Thunders Hi BlindPink :-) I reckon not, sounds more like carb problems.I think you will be on MKII amals yes? if yes whip the bowls off and down the side of the bowl there is a tunnel that feeds the enricher, at the bottom lives a jet and this is most likely blocked. Slack tappets will be noisy but not stop it starting, tight tappets will loose you compression and could stop it starting. hope this helps, let us know ta :-)
Hi lunmad, your answer was cut short.I couldn't read the end. I have same problem all of a sudden. 10, 20 kicks then runs good. Should I just clean bowl and jets. Thanks. Great vids.
I have a 1969 Bonnie , valve clearances are 2thou inlet , 4 thou exhaust This is because the exhaust clearance reacts to the greater heat increase so the gap must be greater than the inlet clearance as the inlet valves run cooler than the exhaust valves .failure to adjust correctly will result in loss of compression of the exhaust valve owing to the extra heat generated. Too large the gap results in poor performance and noisy tappets, too tight and you can damage the valve seats through over heating
SEEMS OVER COMPLICATED TO ME, I'VE NEVER SEEN IT DONE THIS WAY. THIS IS HOW I SEE IT, IF ONE VALVE ON THE INLET IS FULLY OPEN THEN THE OTHER INLET ( NOT EXHAUST) VALVE IS THEREFORE FULLY CLOSED AND HENCE FULL CLEARANCE AS THE LOBES ARE 180 DEGREES APART. SAME ON THE EXHAUST, ONE OPEN, ONE CLOSED, THAT SIMPLE
Frank Kemble Hi Frank, your caps lock is stuck on! I agree, this is a way of doing a multi cylinder when you cannot see the cam but know the firing order. Take a 4cyl you would get #1 valve down then set #8, then #2 down and set #7 always add together as 9 and just go down the line until they are all done. Triumph get 1 down set the other same cam, I have since done another video showing this way.
I find the inlet .002 side a little trickier to get right because it's so little clearance. Do you know what size that tiny wrench you're using is? The one that's holding the square adjuster part still as you tighten down the lock nut? I bought one of those special valve adjusting tools, but it doesn't fit right on my 64 TR6..
