Brilliant I have just put new plates in my lighting after a lot of years but the books say nothing about adjusting the cable yes I got all of the bit about the pressure plate but nothing about the cable from the books so a big thanks for that simple when shown how
Brilliant. Many thanks for producing this, very much appreciated as the clutch on mine T140V isn't working correctly. I hopefully will now sort it out thanks to your help.
Nice little instructional video for someone new to the Meriden 750’s. Thanks for sharing. Must look out for others when you tackle the carbs/float levels etc.
I use the plastic bag technique on my clutch cable, too, but I do it on the bike. I just disconnect from the lever, suspend the bag and cable from a bungee hooked onto the garage roof, pour some EP90 into it and leave it. Any excess will drain into the gearbox. The cable will, of course, choose to break at the most inconvenient time. My worst one was at midnight on an unlit country road, several miles from civilisation. I always carry spare cables and the tools to change them, but that one was quite a challenge.
My last snapped cable was a busy roundabout at the bottom of the M271 in Southampton, it was a giggle. At least it was daylight and not raining. I could have done it on the bike but I wasn't happy with the routing as it was near the exhaust and the outer sheath had a bit of heat damage.
Was watching this video because after a successful first ride I went to go for a ride the next morning and the clutch was stuck. I have tried rocking the bike in gear with clutch handle depressed and left it overnight with a zip tie on the clutch handle, but to no effect. Guessing I am going to need to order new discs and springs etc. Do you have any suggestions on which discs to purchase or whether I should try other options before ordering parts? It's a 1977 T140v. Really appreciate it!
@MadTinkerman before ordering parts would be best to do some fault finding first. Take the clutch adjuster cover off the primary, is the adjuster screw and locknut still in position? Do the plates move when you operate the clutch, you might need a torch to see it through the inspection hole. Let’s not unload the parts canon yet… 😂
@@bodganeering Hi, well I took the inspection cover off and see that the adjustment screw has been bottoming out on the inspection cover! Bits of aluminum from the cover are present so I think I had better take the primary cover off and see what the heck is going on inside there... Any idea what would cause the adjustment screw to hit the inspection cover? I haven't adjusted it yet, but the adjustment screw and nut don't appear to be loose.
@@bodganeering Hi, well I took the clutch adjust cover off and have found that the adjusting screw has been bottoming out on the inspection cover with little bits of aluminum as evidence. I think I had better take the primary cover off and see what the heck is going on in there... The adjuster screw and nut don't appear to be loose but I haven't attempted to adjust them yet. Any idea what might cause this? The adjuster screw and top plate do move with the clutch handle depressed.
1 turn out is too much for my 78 T140 for some reason. I has to be a half a turn out not get that clicking sound when you pull the lever all the way in. (If I don't pull the lever al the way to the grip it seems ok, but i dont think it should click at all. I put a 7 plate clutch conversion into my bike, so maybe that has something to do with it. There's a lot of people that say half a turn to three quarters rather than 1 turn out. The manual says one full turn.
TBH all bikes can be a little different, Triumph aren’t renowned for their tight tolerances 😂. Notching or clicking on the clutch can be any number of reasons, I’ve seen a worn basket cause it a couple of times.
