Hi Felix greetings from London. Just today I came across your videos on you tube -as i was searching for camera equipment for Masai Mara. ( we are planning to go there in August this year). I found your videos , the way you you present them , extremely helpful. very informative and To The point. Keep up the good work. i hv subscribed. Thanks n best wishes
I use a micro 4/3’rds LUMIX camera, mainly because the camera that takes the best photos is the one you have with you, and I like the size and weight of this set up. My “long lens” is a 100-300 (equivalent 200-600) and my kit lens is 12-60. I am hoping that between these two I can cover a lot of different situations. The nice feature of this rig is the image stabilizer that is built into the body and the lens. If you have any tips for this “amateur” arrangement, I’d love to hear them!
I just came back from safari with the 100-300 on the Lumix G9. It's an excellent lens and useful focal length coverage between that and the 12-60. My only tip is to stop down the 100-300 a bit to avoid CA, but otherwise I think the only trouble you'll run into is if your safari has close encounters and the 200mm equivalent focal length is too long for the action. But it wasn't the case in my experience.
Hey Felix Awesomecontent and photography. Love the D 850 but have now ventured into mirrorless with the Z6 and Z7II . I have the New Z 24 to 70 and the Z 70 to 200 and just want 1 more longer lens. What's your thoughts on a new 400 mm Z Since they don't have 300 yet. Probably pretty decent for Safari ? I would think a decent range between the 300 and 500 pf. I got hooked on Safari's after my first one last year. I just can't get back soon enough.
What’s your set up for the videos of the lions and buffalo? Are you using the 300 or 70-200? Do you also add ND while filming? And take it off for photos?
Felix, the lion videos around 2.57- were they on the 300mm? I'm struggling to decide whether to buy/ rent a 600m. I have zero equipement and am going on safari soon. Eee!
Most likely on a 300mm. Very rare for me to want longer than that. If you need a 600mm for a mammal I often feel they are too far away for a good photo and if they come closer a 600mm will be way to big.
I have a canon rebel 7i.. right now I have a 70-300 mm 4.5-6. I have about $1500 I can spend on another lense to bring to Africa: would you recommend a 70-200 2.8 or a 500mm 4.5…. Orrrrr what would u recommend??
300mm in full frame for birds???? You must be shooting Ostriches. I use 300mm in a crop camera, wich gives 450mm equivalent and still a pain in the ass, is just not enough reach.
Rank amateur tips. So much misinformation on the you tube channels. Safe to say your using auto everything mode with Evaluative/Matrix type metering, just like most of the Digital newbies out there in the RU-vid world.
@@felixrome7829 Anytime you rely on your camera's automaticic settings to control anything in regards to your image making process. You're setting yourself up for for failure. A camera metering system merely calculates what it believes to be a midtone value to render a itva midtone value. With its built in algorithms it reads many parts of an overall scene then decides what it believes to be of highlights, midtones or what your focus points are on and decides what it believes to be the main subject. And bases it's calculated guess to create a exposure to refer a midtone exposure of that area. And it is sometimes correct but in tricky lighting situations where there it a lot of brights or dark shadow areas. Or simply a different tonal area behind you subject. Your camera's meter gets fooled. The camera sees these tones in relation to your subject differently than you. Let's say your subject is a dark beetle amongst some bright flowers your camera will read the white flowers and will reduce the amount of light but I guareentee it will be off by at least one stop or more. Leaving tour subject to be underexposed by one stop or more. Auto,aperture, shutter, or Auto i.s.o is an open invitation to failure. Even after you dial in in compensation as soon as your tonal values changer your subject moves into another area or you zoom in closer or farther away. Your exposure will change again. While in manual mode once you set it and the subject moves in front of different tonality of light or you zoom in or out the exposure remains constant. With no delineation where as the cameras Auto mode would make Unnecessary corrections.
