Simple and to the point. I was able to finally get mine done thanks to your video. The idea was to have the turret bottomed out prior to sighting it at 100y. Once sighted (elevation/windage) I tightened the 3 screws and put the cap back on and tightened that one. Thanks again for the video....
Great video, my gasket broke too, but it doesn't seem like its necessary. A little trick I would recomend is to leave about 3MOA or 1 MIll on the elevation instead of locking it out all the way. This is so you don't have to unlock the inner turret if you have ammo that shoots a bit higher and you need a bit less elevation.
I have done this exact process but it wont stop clicking. I think my scope is defective. Only way for me to get it to move freely is to loosen the top two screws on the turret underneath.
PLEASE HELP IF POSSIBLE I PURCHASED A VIPER PST USED NO BOX NO MANUAL AFTER THINKING I HAD ZEROED IT AND BEFORE WATCHING ANY VIDEOS I KNEW I HAD TO REMOVE THE TURRET CAPS AND ROTATE THEM AND ON THE UP/DOWN TURRET I REMOVED THE 2 ALLEN HEAD SCREWS IN THE TOP FROM THE 2ND TURRET THE ONE YOU CALL THE ZERO STOP THINKING I NEED TO ROTATE IT UPON DOING SO I THOUGHT I HEARD SOMETHING FALL OUT NOT BEING ABLE TO SEE ANYTHING ON THE FLOOR ANYWHERE I PUT IT BACK TOGETHER NOW IT DOES NOT STAY IN PLACE IT ROTATES FREELY NOT CLICKING AND NOT MOVING IN 1/4 CLICKS IF YOU KNOW WHAT I MAY HAVE LOST OR WHAT I AM DOING WRONG OR KNOW WHERE I CAN GET A PARTS BREAKDOWN YES I COULD SEND IT TO VORTEX TO BE REPAIRED BUT I TRULY BELIEVE I LOST SOME THAT I CAN PUT BACK TO MAKE IT WORK AGAIN IF ANY ONE READS OR KNOWS HOW TO FIX THIS YOUR HELP WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED
I was hoping to see a video of someone actually demonstrating the step-by-step doing of it rather than just hearing someone describe, like, "What you're going to do is ..." without actually describing and demonstrating "What you're going to do." Question: "How do you make pancakes?" Answer: "What you're going to do is get the ingredients and mix them together and then cook them on the stove."
Sorry. Was trying to keep the explanation shorter as many folks don’t like to lengthy of an explanation. I hope you were able to find someone else’s post that covered the parts you needed. Thanks for the feedback. I’ll keep this in mind for future posts.
Sorry. Hard to line up perfectly as I was filming and trying to not make it a long video. I trust you understand the process? Do I need to explain more?
Agreeing with B Dorning... I can make sense of moving the cap so it visually reads zero, but is it possible to adjust the indicator and mechanics to that "0" rotation plane indicator (versus just above the 1)? Can't wrap my head around how enable more slack upward. If this makes sense? 🤦🏻♂️🤷🏻♂️
Hi, thanks for the video. One question though: I followed your methods and my elevation dial doesn't sit at the "0" mark of the barrel (the scale that counts how many turns you're dialed up) but instead sits at "1", thus removing a whole revolution of elevation adjustment. Is this correct?
For elevation after zeroing how come mine is on like 2 1/2 and yours is on what looks like 1? That doesn't give me nearly as much to work within comparison to you.
Where do I want my zero stop to be? If I sight and zero stop at 100m, I can't dial in for any target closer, and have to use gradations on the reticle. Is this how most zero stop set ups are intended to function?
I think there’s at least 2 options. 1) Set the zero stop to bottom out on zero. Unless you’re a precision target shooter anything less than your 100 or 200 m/y zero will only be less than a few cm’s or inch+/- off. For hunting this really should not matter at these distances. 2) If this does matter or like me you shoot more than one ammo through your gun which has different points of impact, then set the zero stop with some additional margin. I usually allow for 5 or a few more clicks to accommodate the margin I need. I find it easy enough to wind down till it bottoms out (beyond the zero) and then click back the few clicks to put it on zero. Some however would not want this. Did this help?
1) Before sighting it in just turn the elevation left/down until it bottoms out/ won’t turn any more. 2)Then loosen off the elevation cap and remove. 3) Next loosen the 3 internal Alan screws, which will allow you to adjust elevation as you now sight in your gun. So now shoot and adjust the scope. Note it will turn smoothly with no clicks. 4) Once elevation is dialled in then lock off the 3 internal Alan screws, replace cap into the zero position and tighten. This should finish the elevation process. For windage, just turn until it is in line with your bullet placement. Then loosen the Alan screws and spin the cap to the correct zero position and lock the Alan screws. Hope this helps.
@@fod4250 it did help but my scope is reading that I have 2 full rotations now on the turret while bottomed out 😅 is there any way to adjust that part? Appreciate your time!
@@TjHeuer-ct7eo Checked my gun and I am also at least a revelation up and I have a 20 MOA rail. I think it just is. Otherwise I’d contact Vortex for their input.
I can't remember if it was clear in the manual or not. I did call Vortex and have a Tech walk me through the process. This is part of what provoked doing this video, because it didn't seem clear or intuitive. I hope this video helped you. All the best!
This particular gun is a Tikka in 300 Short Mag, with a Tac 21 Chassis system from MDT (mdttac.ca/collections/chassis-systems). I've had good results from their chassis' (≤ 1/3 to ≤ 1/8 moa results with my various guns on their platform) and like their new ESS system, which is geared towards PRS type of shooting.
Why not just zero the rifle and then remove the cap and then put it back on at 0 mark? Is this only to prevent dial in below the original zeroed range?
Jiajian Hou, I tried this but it won’t create the stop at zero. You need to first spin it till it bottoms out, then take the cap off, loosen the 3 internal lock screws and then shoot and dial your necessary elevation. Then lock those 3 internal lock screws, and then finally put the cap on in the zero position. It may not make sense. I understand it’s a little confusing. But if you follow my instructions step by step I trust you will find it to work for you. - All the best.
Fod why do I must turn it all the way down before zeroing the rifle? Can I just zero the rifle like a normal scope, and then lift the cap, and then tighten the inner turret.
@@jiajianhou426 Try doing it, but I think you'll find it doesn't actually set the zero stop. You need to turn it all the way down first before zeroing as this is what puts it in the "stopped" position. All the best.
BUDDY CHANNELL It may not make sense. I understand it’s a little confusing. It took a bit for me to wrap my mind around it at first too. But if you follow my instructions step by step I trust you will find it to work for you. - All the best.
Sorry, remove of the windage cap is actually not necessary. Simply dial the windage as you take your shots to achieve windage zero. Then loosen the 3 Allan keys. The dial will spin freely. Turn until the numbers are set to your actual zero. Then tighten the 3 Allan keys. Done. Hope this helps explain why it is not necessary to remove the windage cap.
Correct. The windage dial will turn both ways, but once you do your initial adjustments to zero both elevation and windage you need to set and lock the windage dial back to the middle between R and L. Hope this clarifies.
