Sewer tap Clean Out for a 3" RV waste drain install DONE FAST 

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I've only been alive since 1981 but I've been plumbing for almost 25 years (started at 14) is anyone going to mention that if you're not a plumber u really shouldn't be cutting into your sewer main??? Lol. I know that some people are capable of DIY plumbing but I've only watched a couple minutes of this video and I've already seen a couple code violations. I know codes are different depending on where u live and I live in oregon with one of the most strict plumbing codes in the country but these videos always make me nervous. People need to understand that it's a lot more expensive to DIY and then pay a plumber to come redo your work and get it all up to code.

60s are illegal in oregon for drainage for one. But maybe not wherever this guy is

@@brantkangiser9535 Sounds goofy to me. Oregon approves use of long sweep 90's under slabs, but not 60's that I personally saw this in the addition to the Walgreens in Dalles. But why, they can not tell you. 60's in Idaho are common Weir breakers ( flood level vent verticals) off mains to stay in walls under slabs. Oregon has Politicians making your codes, In Idaho its plumbers. A 60 degree is permitted in 90% of states in sewers used both flat and mainly in branching. A 90 is not allowed in flat, but on a 22 degree or higher drop angle its allowed in 90% of states. Why Oregon has a fail to not use them is Political, not functional. There are no UPC written reports on them being detrimental to sewers anywhere except when laid with NO rise on them.

@@brantkangiser9535 HAHA Proud not to be in Oregon! However, if you are in a City, and the code is that you must plug, flood and pressurize the line to spec I do suggest your either contact your city, get the proper test plugs and rules, or hire a plumber. Pre-Digging it out will save you the cost you fear of hiring a plumber.

My 22 years as a plumber in 4 states gives the ability to make it easy.

@@JOHNDANIEL1 your Awesome bud .love the videos very helpful and" indeed professional,

I probably installed a few hundred thousand of these no-hubs many hospital jobs and commercial jobs using cast pipe.

I use the full rubber coupling and a no hub to show how either can be used.

Remember Orangeburg has asbestos in it, so spray down with WD-40 when cutting and use the 4" Clay Tile to 4" Schedule 40 Fernco to connect it. amzn.to/44pdhYM ( get 2 ) and bed back in with loose soil or sand if you can get it once you made the connection. Use ONLY a 4" x (3or4") Wye, not a TEE. From it you can go to that bathroom so get your elevations right to maintain 1/16 to 1/4 per foot fall ( flow) do not angle sharply. You can connect to ABS or PVC, but be sure to cut with a good blade and DO NOT put your Saws-All ( reciprocating saw ) up against it, so get a LONG blade like the Diablo 12" to do the cutting. amzn.to/4blsRqw

If you have a 2 foot level, you can figure out drop ( drain angle) by just using the bubble if its just off center, touching the line you have enough fall for a sewer pipe. 1/16" per foot is good drainage rate, 1/8 is max needed. Somewhere in between is perfect. So if your sewer tap is about 6" lower than your spot for your RV in Fall ratio you can easily make it work. Just be sure your under ground enough to protect it from bad weather or traffic near it.

A option, amzn.to/2qxBFJn

Out of the 7,568 mental disorder based genders they seemed to miss working partner, I'd sue!

Kind of a cool idea but except for one vital thingwhen dealing with sewer you should not use a flex pipe or water hose because there's a very strong chance of the holes bending or flexing or just manipulating in a way that the sewer line backs up a safer way is to go with standard black PVC pipes and cement glue.not saying your idea couldn't have worked or does not work but it really raises a red flag to someone that knows plumbing and sewer lines because a sewer line can't be manipulated into a flex line there's a lot of problems that can go along with that code wise.

The flex hose that comes from the RVs in most all cases will fit down slip-wise inside of 3-in pipe. So the fitting I used was a 3-in street 90 hub on one end pipe diameter on the other end. I turned the pipe diameter up and then I used a regular fernco 3 inch rubber cap as a cover when not in use. Your rv sewer hose will slip right into that. If you want to use a 45° Street fitting 3 in you can do that also but test fit your hose you're going to use by removing the other clamp end and slipping it inside your 3 in PVC or ABS pipe. The flexible sewer hose does fit well enough into 3" PVC pipe that it will not backflow out.

Yes, but continuous requires very little pitch on it. 1/16" fall per foot is standard so if you have as close to that as possible your ok. I have done 1" of fall per 10 feet of run without any issues. So in your case if you have 15" of difference from septic up to RV tap and no flat spots in the pipes run your fine.

I've been plumbing 25 years and still use them all the time. Pipe just needs to be supported properly and inserted all the way.

A lot of variables involved in that. City, Rural, what country your in. Freeze Depth, and design of home. Usually look up on the roof, see the largest pipe used for sewer venting, coincide that with where the toilets are, and then locate the sewer clean out at the ground down below that area to get started.

I used 2 options for the video, showing you can use either style, many people do not know the options. But you can use the same of both if that is easiest to get.

Yes, 30+ year lifespan stainless steel. PVC and ABS only has a 35 year expected lifespan before they begin to break down, PVC sooner, ABS can make it 50 years. But they have outlawed the use of ABS in many places surely getting bureaucrats bribed to do so by the PVC industry and unions.

Your motorhome already has venting and backflow prevention in its plumbing.

Find the sewer clean out, take a look or you can call the city or county to ask if theres a record on your place.

@@JOHNDANIEL1 When you call the city or county be sure to tell them your asknig for a friend who lives at least five miles from you.

It's a sewer tap, not sure why a P-trap would be involved.

Expected lifespan under ground out of the sun is 60 years.

@@JOHNDANIEL1 hey can you give me some advice on doing this. My sewer is green SDR so should I use all PVC or should I do ABS fittings?

@@mknight6026 Stick with PVC since adapters from SDR 35 to Sch 40 is off the shelf ready available.

Ok thanks. Looks like most stuff here on the shelf in 4" is the SDR white. Not sure if their going to make me buy 10 feet of 4 inch of thin wall here instead of by the foot bit I guess there's one way to find out. Thanks

The only thing on them that will rust will depend on the country it's made in. Chinese made the clamp and screw will rust, Mexico made the Screw in the clamp will rust, USA made like mine, metal parts made by IDEAL, and its metal parts are 304 stainless steel as required by BOCA 1977. Almost 23 years (up until 2011) of doing commercial plumbing and using them in full wet conditions, burial, and hot space. I have saw all three options above show up on jobs. Stick with ProFlo and not have problems. No Hub Specs - *Product Details* Corrosion resistant 300 series stainless steel shield with neoprene gasket 5/16 in hex-head screw designed for 80 lbs of installation torque PROFLO no-hub couplings are engineered to connect no-hub cast iron pipe and fitting PROFLO no-hub products are designed to meet or exceed specifications for couplings used in all drain, waste, and vent (DWV) no-hub cast iron pipe system 2 clamps per coupling Made in USA www.ferguson.com/product/proflo-2-in-no-hub-standard-coupling-pfnhck/_/R-1395849 ( BOCA - Founded in 1915, Building Officials and Code Administrators International, Inc., is a nonprofit membership association, comprised of more than 16,000 members who span the building community, from code enforcement officials to materials manufacturers. We are dedicated to preserving the public health, safety and welfare in the built environment through the effective, efficient use and enforcement of Model Codes. BOCA provides a unique opportunity for any individual to join and derive the benefits of membership. Our members are professionals who are directly or indirectly engaged in the construction and regulatory process. National Codes set forth minimum performance requirements for all aspects of construction. They address the areas of building, fire prevention, mechanical systems, property maintenance and energy conservation. The ICC International Codes are the result of a cooperative effort between BOCA and the other model code organizations to bring international uniformity to all codes. BOCA International Standards are available either individually in sections - National Codes and Code Commentaries - or as a complete service.)

I have 8 fixture units of open rating still on my system. The county here just accounts for that and if it's added indoors is the only thing that would require a notice of alteration. The city however is a different game though, that's why I live 12 miles from it.

@@JOHNDANIEL1 not throwing shade, just a little heads up in case someone hasn't done any of this kind of work. Thanks John.

I moved out of the city, and county, where I built my first house because it became to complicated to live. I now live out away from any city, in a county with no zoning, required inspections, etc. I only have to meet state requirements on septic. I have a 1000 gallon tank and 300 feet of field line. That's more than what's required, but when it comes to septic...more is better.