Shapeoko 2 CNC Kit: Wasteboard Upgrade w/ Threaded Inserts

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NOTE: DO NOT use the 9mm hole diameter indicated on the packaging. I've found 8mm (5/16") to be a much better fit. Keep this in mind if you're programming your own holes, or drilling them by hand. And ideally, install them from the bottom. Get a countersink bit in a drill and you can quickly get all the inserts to sit flush by hand.
This is the final step before I can start milling real projects, figuring out how I'm going to do Workholding. There are many ways to tackle this topic, this is just my take. You can research other methods here: www.shapeoko.co...
This is part 4 of my Grand Shapeoko Adventure, my journey from noob to Maker.
Here's the threaded insert I got from McMaster: www.mcmaster.co...
But after seeing the brand (EZ-Lok), I'm pretty sure you can also find them on Amazon and such for slightly cheaper. Maybe: amzn.to/1bbeWi9 ? Double check dimensions to make sure it suits your needs before buying.

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6 сен 2024

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Комментарии : 68

@mikecahill3186 8 лет назад

I made a table like this, I mounted the inserts from the underside, it reduces the risk of a cutter hitting an insert, (the fastening bolts will go in either way), you don't have to recess the flanges, and the force is trying to pull the insert through the board so no danger of the insert pulling through.

@garyolson3315 9 лет назад

UPDATE!!! Easel is now available. No conversions necessary . Thanks for the video. It helps to explain the software working alternatives. Being a carpenter, I used a framing square, 5/16" forstner bit, and a countersink. I screwed in the inserts using my 1/2" air powered ratchet with a hex bit socket. For those in a hurry not wanting to tackle the software learning curve right away.

@Zootalaws 10 лет назад

Great video! As a North American, it's easy for you to say 'just use inches', but I haven't used inches since around 1970 and don't have any imperial tools or measuring equipment - my whole world is metric - actually, THE whole world is metric, with the exception of the USA. The easiest and best thing to do is to petition makercam developers to reduce the number of significant digits they output.

@DanielMPries 10 лет назад

Great video man! I'm actually at this step in my upgrades and I was considering this vs. t-nuts. Now that you've demonstrated it, I'm going to use threaded inserts as well. Thanks for also disclosing your workflow. Lots if good stuff there.

@tonyb9785 10 лет назад

Loving your blog Winston. Excellent video, content, structure, quality, etc.! Definitely subscribing. Btw, I wrote that code snippet in this video :P. I don't use it anymore, since Mach3 doesn't have the 'too many characters per line' issue. Keep up the good work!

@williamfoster2624 10 лет назад

your video are awesome. never stop making them !!!

@afcajamiro 10 лет назад

Nice! This project will be great

@slayer76859 10 лет назад

Thanks for the advice!

@KillaKlownFPV831 8 лет назад

awesome videos. getting ready to pull the trigger on a Shapeoko 3 but before i did want to see if you may have a file ready to do this to that wasteboard? first cnc machine ever and need help lol

@WinstonMakes 8 лет назад

So back in the day, I shared some gcode to cut one or four holes at a time on the Shapeoko forum: www.shapeoko.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2542 However, that code is meant to cut clean through 1/2" MDF. Shapeoko 3's now ship with 3/4" boards, so there's a bit of difference. Making your own code however isn't too difficult, and I'll be (eventually) releasing a new video for how to do this on my Shapeoko 3. In the mean time, I found that a 5/16" drill bit + countersink by hand works surprisingly well...

@glennnopal4072 7 лет назад

Hi, I've learned a lot from your videos. I ended up ordering the ez lok from amazon and install them, but I have found that the inserts are kind of weak. They don't hold all that well in the wasteboard are prone to being pulled out by pressure. I thought that might be because the wood is too soft. Even with adding glue i find that the inserts are still being pried up. Do you have any thoughts on what it is I may be doing wrong?

@WinstonMakes 7 лет назад

The hole size suggested on the packaging is wrong. Should be 5/16 (8mm). Otherwise the inserts go in too loose.

@glennnopal4072 7 лет назад

wow, quick reply. Thanks, I'll look into that.

@slayer76859 10 лет назад

Hey I'm a Cnc noob... Your videos are VERY helpful as well as entertaining! Question, how do you know what to look for in the gcode? I've been running different things just with a pen before I go and cut up the world, half way through my process it jump up about a .5" and continues on at a .5" above zero. I'm a fast learner and am usually good at teaching myself, do you have any recommended websites or articles I could read to understand better?

@WinstonMakes 10 лет назад

If you google how to read GCode, you can figure out what most of the commands do. The 'G' series of commands can in general be interpreted as "go", 'M' is machine commands like "turn on spindle" (not applicable for most basic CNCs), and there's a couple miscelleneous ones. 'F' is feedrate. If your CNC is lifting up, look for a "G__ Z__" (i.e. 'go to Z height ___') command. Actually, even just looking for "z" should key you to the line of interest pretty quickly since 2D programs should have very few lift-up calls. When I was in college, we did an exercise where we wrote our own gcode, basically just plotting straight lines and arcs. You can try something like that, using Wikipedia as your gcode dictionary, but I'm sure there are plenty of other tutorials out there. And you can quickly test it on a gcode viewer like OpenSCAM if you don't want to risk damaging your machine.

@CR3DT 10 лет назад

Nice videos. I got some quick questions: 1) Why did you install your inserts from the top and not the bottom as on the shapeoko (instructables) website? 2) I see pencil marks on your board are you were making the holes. Did you draw the grid by hand and then manually job to each hole?

@WinstonMakes 10 лет назад

1) I don't trust MDF to not erode away after dozens if not hundreds bolt insertions and removals, so I wanted the insert to be the only thing that makes contact with hold down bolts. The downside is that you will need a scrap layer between your workpiece and your MDF (so your end mill doesn't hit metal). But that's okay because I want my "waste"board to last as long as possible. 2) That is correct, since there's no "global" zero unless you install limit switches or something, you have to use a manual reference point. Plus, the lines help in alignment of workpieces.

@CR3DT 10 лет назад

Can you install homing switches ? Meaning does the arduino shield allow for that if you ever wanted to ? I was going to use t nuts on my machinr, but since I found yours (thank you for the links) I think I will your method. I will use .75 think mdf so that I can recess the insets a bit. I find that making a top board or spoil board is quite a project when you want the machine to do it. But I love the idea of having my machine make some of its part.

@WinstonMakes 10 лет назад

Cesar Rullier From my understanding, the gShield on the arduino can accommodate 3 inputs, so it should be able to do homing. With some creative wiring, you can probably do limit switches too: 6 inputs, with 2^3 number of readable states... but I would search around on the Shapeoko Forums for details on a specific implementation.

@StephanKyriakopoulos 10 лет назад

Cesar Rullier www.shapeoko.com/wiki/index.php/Home_switches its easy, you have to solder 3 pins onto gshield on 9, 10, 11 timf.anansi-web.com/wp/limit-switches-for-the-shapeoko/

@CineSoar 9 лет назад

I have been experimenting with hole size in MDF. I'm finding that, if I use the recommended hole size, the MDF bulges, leaving a slight 'mound' surrounding each insert (I can see daylight, under a machinist's rule). After much experimentation, I ended up nearly 3/64" larger in diameter. I'm curious, since you went even smaller... Is your wasteboard perfectly level over each insert?

@WinstonMakes 9 лет назад

I put in a slight counterbore on each hole to let the insert sit just under the surface. Countersink bit work well for adding the feature manually, but you should still expect to slightly overdrill the main hole.

@CineSoar 9 лет назад

Winston Moy Hi Winston, thank you for the Vlog and the quick reply. For the benefit of anyone who might be following along, I'm using E-Z LOK 400-4 inserts. I'm using a 1/2" counterbore, 1/16" deep (the inserts don't have a flange, but this eliminates an initial sharp 'ridge'' around the hole). The manufacturer recommends a 3/8" main hole, but I find that leaves a 'mound' a few thousandths high, sloping off about 1" in each direction (the MDF compression causes 3D expansion). After cutting a series of holes, with incrementally larger diameter, and checking each with a machinists rule, I finally arrived at 0.42" diameter (vs. 0.375" recommended). Shapeoko 2, expanded to 635mm x 1000mm (24.75" x 35.19"), with 6 limit switches, Z-Probe and aluminum fan-cooled electronics enclosure.

@jdde013 7 лет назад

Couldn't you do the same thing but flip the mdf over? so the flange is on the underside. Will those threaded inserts work the other way?

@WinstonMakes 7 лет назад

You absolutely could, and it would be a little bit stronger. However, because of how the boards are counterbored, it's usually pretty hard to secure them to the base frame without additional hardware. Original screws aren't long enough.

$@fracsorg$

@fracsorg 6 лет назад

Winston what clamps do you use to fix to the threaded inserts ? thanks

@Stephen8454 7 лет назад

So getting the ones from McMaster you recommend an 8mm inner hole?

@WinstonMakes 7 лет назад

Yep, and for maximum holding strength, you can install them from the bottom. Drill through the waste board, and use a countersink bit so they sit flush and don't interfere with the base frame. I haven't had much problem with them in the top, but it becomes 100% foolproof if the flange is on the bottom.

@Stephen8454 7 лет назад

Hey thanks for answering and sorry for being a bother. For the E-Z loks is the outer, top hole diameter still 1/16" beyond the 8mm?

@WinstonMakes 7 лет назад

the flange diameter? it's like 0.48"

@hanspederbybothelvhaug9872 8 лет назад

Hello - what kind of end mill are you using for this? Hans Peder

@WinstonMakes 8 лет назад

+Hans Peder Byboth Elvhaug I used a 2-flute 1/8" carbide end mill, nothing too exotic. Straight or helical flutes would both do fine.

@kwixson 10 лет назад

I can't for the life of me find the part you mention on McMaster's web site. Could you give us the part number?

@WinstonMakes 10 лет назад

Here's the threaded insert I got from McMaster: www.mcmaster.com/#92105a100/=qhbi42 But after seeing the brand (EZ-Lok), I'm pretty sure you can also find them on Amazon and such for slightly cheaper. Maybe: amzn.to/1bbeWi9 ? Double check dimensions to make sure it suits your needs before buying.

@kwixson 10 лет назад

Winston Moy Ah! SAE. I finally did find the flanged insert listings, but couldn't find the M5 size mentioned in the Inventables catalog for their waste board product. You indicated a metric hole size, so I had metric on the brain. Of course I was impatient and had already ordered the M6 ones and some M6 hex screws. Then I read your response and (facepalm) I have a whole box of 1/4-20 hex screws sitting next to me. Oh well. I'm sure the next guy to come along will appreciate having the part number. Thanks!

@MikeKapotsy 9 лет назад

Winston, would you be willing to share your GCode for the threaded inserts? I would like to do the same thing you've done for my work surface. Thanks.

@WinstonMakes 9 лет назад

www.shapeoko.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2542 About halfway down the page I posted the code for 1 and 4 holes. It's using really old, sub-optimal values for feed rates though. Good to start out with, but you can definitely improve upon it.

@MikeKapotsy 9 лет назад

Winston Moy great, thanks!

@MikeKapotsy 9 лет назад

Winston Moy may need help setting up. Cannot get the UGS application to recognize the port. Trying GCode Tools next.

@WinstonMakes 9 лет назад

Mike Kapotsy Were you able to ascertain which port your arduino is using? Ex. "COM 3". And are you positive the Arduino driver was installed? (If not, install the IDE from arduino.cc/en/Main/Software)

@MikeKapotsy 9 лет назад

Thanks, driver is not installed. I will try that this evening. Thanks, I'll let you know how it goes.

@tigoxbrata 10 лет назад

Hey man , great shapeoko videos and tuts, can you help me with makercam? Everytime i draw in cm it generates the gcode with the correct size but way too big commands like you said, so i moved to makercam in inches, but when i draw the exact same piece in inches (converting cm to inches) the gcode turns out with a piece to cnc that is like 300% smaller than the original drawn in makercam using cm, what gives?

@WinstonMakes 10 лет назад

Hmm, that's kind of strange. Have you done any other jobs on your CNC to verify that GRBL's programmed correctly? Easiest test would probably to draw and cut out a 1" square using Easel.

@tigoxbrata 10 лет назад

Winston Moy actually.. i'm trying to mill and engrave things using my 3D printer (k8200) and i have succeeded using artcam for example, but in makercam, whenever i try to export in cm my machine goes crazy (even after trimming the decimals in post processor) and if i try in inches the models come out tinny, like 700% smaller

@WinstonMakes 10 лет назад

tigox brata Oh, that's cool. What is the controller? Is is also Arduino/gShield? Or something else. Have you tried comparing the gCode you get from Artcam and makercam? they may be using different post-processors, and makercam's is just not right for your machine.

@tigoxbrata 10 лет назад

Winston Moy The controller is a revised sanguinololu (atmega2560 and ponololu drivers in a board) and yes, i have compared the code, the difference i see is that all the coordinates are different, which makes me think the problem lies before the host program i'm using...

@WinstonMakes 10 лет назад

tigox brata That's kind of strange, I thought gcode only came in mm or inches. There shouldn't be a scaling issue with the code if it's properly identified in the beginning pf the program. Have you tried writing a few lines of gcode (ex. G21, G0 X1 Y0, G0 X1 Y1, etc) just to sure the controller is interpretting the streamed commands correctly?

@wilfredoyusti9545 10 лет назад

Hey, man I just subscribe to your site, extremely interesting, I write from Venezuela, I would make a CNC and watching your video I call a lot of attention that you use, be so kind to give me details of it, if you made, purchased complete, who sells, sell the kit etc etc, I thank you in advance for your help. Thank you

@scott98390 10 лет назад

Dude, you sound a LOT like Kip Kay.

@JohnnyZinco 10 лет назад

Hi can you provide the gcode for this project?

@WinstonMakes 10 лет назад

www.shapeoko.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2542 Around the 6th post, I put up the code for one of the holes, and the vector graphic file to create more (use MakerCAM or Easel ... or whatever program floats your boat).

@JohnnyZinco 10 лет назад

Winston Moy Thks for your replay and the file very useful... Continue doing things like this!

@curtischan137 8 лет назад

Hi Winston - Thoughts on using something like this instead of the threaded inserts you used? www.mcmaster.com/#90244a336/=10yf8jl

@WinstonMakes 8 лет назад

+Curtis Chan Those are designed for soft woods like pine. Difficult to say if it would work well in MDF, but my guess is that it won't be as easy to drive into your waste board. MDF acts very differently from natural woods.

@comak7573 9 лет назад

whats the name of the song?

@WinstonMakes 9 лет назад

Cody Makarevitz During the dialogue? farsight by Secession Studios.

@comak7573 9 лет назад

Thanks! great song

@GoatZilla 9 лет назад

Wow, really? The software can't handle metric? That's... damn near a dealbreaker.

@WinstonMakes 9 лет назад

I mean, it can handle metric, but the way it does the unit conversion leaves each line too long to transmit via serial (unless you do some simple decimal truncation). This may not be as big an issue now however, if I recall correctly the updated version of GRBL allows 20 more characters to be transmitted per line or something. You can also work in Inkscape in metric and convert later when going to MakerCAM. Or try Easel. There are options for you.