Shaper Yoke Completion - Gingery Shaper Yoke Assembled 

These machines/projects are just so cool to me lol. I lo e every last bit of this stuff.

don't you just love the ingenuity of the whitworth quick return linkage, saved alot of time and money back when the shaper was king!

You must be Yoking, another shaper video? Love it! I bought the books because of your channel. Interesting reading.

I love this build. Can't wait to see the chips fly.... Best Matt

G'day Cressel, nice work, well done. I'm enjoying the build, it's shaping up nicely. Keep up the good work, Peter

Instructive and inspirational as always. Bring on the next episode!

I really like your video. I'm building micro Gingery lathe and your video helps a lot. Please keep uploading!

Thanks for staying with the book. Its a challenge of will not of money.

Very nice work, very interesting to see what can be accomplished with home brew items. thank you

All things considered, I think you're doing an awesome job. Good on you. Regards Mark in the UK

always awesome man! looking forward to more!

IT MOVES!!!! nice work man!

1. You will not get a piece back into a 3 jaw chuck concentric with the previous turning you have already done in a brand new chuck in a well manufactured lathe. You should do all concentric operations in one go. Otherwise you use a 4 jaw chuck and a dial test indicator (I will be posting a video about this when I've rebuilt my PAZ 1 diesel engine. Also when I am parting off a piece (albeit one I want to keep) fro something with a hole in it, I always put a thin rod in the chuck to catch it when it falls.

You should do a new plate for the lathe where you don't use those two angle iron pieces rather a four jaw style one. In older lathes, such a thing existed. It was constituted of a plate, like yours, four squares that were affixed to the plate at various points to accommodate different sizes (think IKEA pin shelf style but with screws), and the adjustable mechanism itself. Through the square two fine pitch screws where passed such that they were pointed towards the center of the plate, they were placed in line, one in the back, one in the front. The ends of the screws were fitted with square head for a key to adjust the depth at which they went to grab the part, and on to the business end, there was a plate that caught both of those screw similar to how the swivel plate on a C clamp fits, but, without the ball end. It was a loose fit on a T slot. Those plates had teeth in them, but could be changed to finer or larger pitch for various parts. That, IMO, is a better design, and a simple one at that. It can be scaled to your work, just as easily it could be used to swing 500 kilo or more weights (the plate itself was, when stood on the ground, as large as half a man's height, just passing over the height of the lathe it was used on. I would give pictures, but i can't find them anymore. But if anyone has visited the engineering museums in Germany, particularly West of the Berlin line, maybe they can provide some.

Nice build

Two big pluses: (1) you are making this thing by the book (2) you are making it in metric. At last! It is interesting to see how the ram-yoke linkage works, I couldn't figure it out from the book.

Looking good man!

Look on the left side. There is a stink bug hanging out on the upright next to his arm. Cool .

Is this all made out of cast Aluminum? Would that not be too soft and light for a precision piece of machinery like this?

Amazing his work !!!!

Vc é simplesmente genial Obrigado por compartilhar com s gente

Have we got clearance Clarence?

I think that Loctite is in order for final assembly.

Witam ponownie obserwuję Twoje pomysły są genialne proste da się co nieco zrobić na twoich maszynach pozdrawiam z Polski

Is this old footage? if not how do you find time to do this stuff with the house and all?

You need a dial indicator to help you line it back up

the tapping drill size for m6x1 is 5mm not 5.5mm, just deduct the pitch from the diameter to get your drill size.

good job! but its clear that my concern with lost foam casting is true.. you seem to have a lot of inclusions in the castings

Awesome! Congrats! And make a chuck ;-)

Probably would have had better result using the tailstock dead center to re-alighn the part for boring.

1:40 That bar stock is bugging out...

This machine is going to wear out pretty fast isn't it..?....Porous soft white metal with mild steel sliding faces..?...Im talking about the main ram which is usually on a Dovetail slide. Apart from the increase in temperature required, is there any reason why you didn't use Cast Iron..? Machines are made from Cast Iron for a very good reason. Admire your hand skills and determination, but Im sure you could use more appropriate materials to make this machine from.

Как же тебе брат фрезерного станка не хватает.

Is the material aluminum?

our porosity problems may be due to high pouring temperate. It bothers me $^&**^&)(*&.

Some people might be yelling "get a chuck" i'm just yelling "get a dial indicator!"

I don't want to seem to be a jerk, but Gingery's book is considered a troll in the metalworking world. You said "but this is what the book calls out", which is precisely why it's making people cringe. I've seen some really useful machine tools built from engine blocks and such, if you want a budget lathe or mill, using an engine block as a base is a really good direction. I *know* that this is part learning experience for you, and part of it is trying to create original content for your channel. _However_ if you really want to make stuff, spend $1500 on a decent oldish lathe and use that. A simple wiggler rod in the tailstock chuck and centered on the part would have gone miles towards getting the part centered without a lot of drama.

Spirt

sand aluminium on grinder stones can make them explode stones suck aluminium into stone

That lathe looks soo not precise and rigid.