I watched this vid 6 months ago and was excited about the Shapton glass 320 but i just did not get around to buying it. But I got it about a week ago - WOW the SG 320 is crazy amazing. I can't believe how fast it cuts and how sharp I can get my knives with such a coarse stone. I feel like its a game changer for my sharpening. Thanks soooo much for turning me on to this stone.
I know plane irons are not your forte but you're the go-to guy for expert stone advice. I need a stone for changing the angle...heavy material removal...thank you
shapton pro 320 is essencial for me to do rough work on Katanas. Its the first stone i use after beltgrinding my blades. i think the stone is better to remove metal than to sharpen blades or work on edges. i like the stone also because of the nike milk it produces.
Thank you for work on sharpening stones. I have a shelf full of stones I don't use because I don't like them. Some I know what they are, others I do not. I have picked up many at garage sales and flea markets. My wife pushes me around and wonders why I need so many stones and knifes. It is an addiction. Keep up the great honest reviews your guidance is just wonderful.
A no nonsense and straight forward review. Thanks for the info. My favourite general sharpening stone is my Shapton glass 1000. I have been looking for a coarse stone for some reprofiling and thinning on blades that I have forged and heat treated. The Shapton Pro 120 looks perfect in that regard. Can I flatten the 120 Pro on coarse sand paper ?
As always great video. The only question I have is, feedback/feel aside, if you were buying a stone solely for removing minor chips, would you still prefer the 320 glass over the 120? I already have the glass in 500, 1k, 3k, and 8k, but now sharpening for more friends and family, seems I have been getting a lot of knives with chipping. I would be buying the 120 or 320 solely for minor repair and want something to move metal quick. Thanks
In Brazil some people turn regular ceramic stones into splash and go stones by submerging the stones in melted petroleum jelly (vaseline), letting the stones soak up the melted petroleum jelly, taking them out of the vaseline and leaving them (the stones) to dry. After the stones are dry, they remove any excess vaseline from the surface of the stone and now they are splash and go (the pores get filled with now solid vaseline and won't get clogged by shapening debris). What do you think of this method, have you tried it (or ever heard about it)?
Hello. Great video and great channel! I use the SG 320 as my coarse stone. And I want to know if I can jump directly to the Chosera 3000 (Naniwa Pro) or if I need to fill the gap with the 800 Chosera. Thank you for your help.
Wow wish I found your channel last month, great review and knowledge, I got 2 Teraa jaakaripuukos the 110 and 140, they put a horrible secondry bevel on them at factory, so I wanted a true skandi and watched a vid from another guy who raved about the shapton pro 320, as I dont own a 2" belt sander had to buy the shapton pro, I have worked on the knives for hours and have a serious dish both sides of it , at least 2 mm in the middle, I have put it down to my inexperience, please tell me the best long lasting coarse stone for this type of work thankyou
Hello Ryky, been enjoying your videos for awhile now and have learned much from you. I have some wusthoff classics that I’d like to remove some scratches from and touch up their edges. What process you would recommend for this?
I know it’s a late reply, but I have two wusthof classics and several swilling pros (similar steel). I have the shaping glass 500, 1k, 3k, and 8k. If just scratches but still has an edge, I would go 1k then finish on my 3k. The 3k, leather strop at the end. If the edge is really rough, start with my 500, but if in descent shape probably not necessary. I like the 3k on my germans bc it is fine enough, but leaves the edge still a little toothy for good bite. Hope that helps
as for future wishes, as you mentioned comparisons between other stones you have. I would love to hear your take on how much feel you in your opinion "sacrifice" if any by going splash and go, and/or other major/minor differences apart from the obvious wear and soaking time
You compared the two 120- and two 320-grit stones in the video "Best Coarse Whetstone--Shapton Glass 320 vs Sharpton Pro 320". Have I got this right: the glass 320 cuts as fast as the glass 120 but wears more slowly?
As a bladesmith, the shapton pro 320 I got from Japan is legit it cuts so fast and leaves a very nice scratch pattern. I was abit skeptical as I wanted another replacement glass but the pro cuts way faster tho dishes alot more so it's all give and take. Gotta remember that this stone is a rough profiling stone used for thinning behind the edge and repairing chips etc you don't really need it for the actual edge a 500-1k would be better for the edge and takes no time at all. ps get rid of those junker 55hrc knives ;) and get an nyatiblade gyuto. I haven't forgotten about what we spoke about, I've just been swamped.
That's what I found with the Shapton Pro 320, great for thinning, but not an 'edge stone'. I'm curious about the Shapton Glass 320 though. Would be great to have the same power at thinning, but can also give a decent edge before moving to a 1000, although the Shapton Pro 1000 is great for general work, probably closer to an 800.
I’m looking for a suite of stones that I can use to efficiently sharpen Mora 106 and 120 wood carving knives. They are a laminated scandi grind, which is quite unusual in knife terms but also a hugely popular tool that needs very regular sharpening. So I need a fast stone to re-apex that overused bevel on occasion and then maybe two more steps to get a good finish and then the shaving sharp mirror edge that is required in wood carving. This needs to be achieved quickly to keep effort and costs down.
Which one of these stones is the one in your Video. Shapton Glass Stone #320 Grit 5mm or Shapton Glass Stone 320 HR - I was not sure what the HR Tag on the 2nd stone refer's too.??
I've been thinking on the Glass 320 but it seems like a thin coarse stone like that isn't going to last very long, especially since Shapton makes the glass stones a little softer than the pro stones to release more abrasive. It does sound like it can produce some nice crisp edges on a variety of steels to start a progression though. Also thinking about the Suehiro Cerax 320 which is a completely different type of stone but I can't find a whole lot of feedback from people who have used it. Coarse stones are always a bit hit and miss for me...
see my use the suehiro 320 here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-8tA6qSWdrM8.html . i love it. links to the best prices are in the video
Thanks for the reply. I think I will end up giving it a try it looks like a good value. It also doesn't look as soft as I've heard it described and it looks like it cuts fast as well. Subscribed.
In this video Ryki says the shapton pro 320 is good for higher Rockwell knifes and in the 1 hour long "everything you need to know about stones" video he says the shapton pro 320 is better for low Rockwell Knifes and doesn't not work as well for higher hardness. (unless my memory tricks me)
i shoot for a smooth non toothy edge , and if i wan't it toothy i will run the blade lightly over a coarser stone , it is confusing to me that i very coarse 120 can make a sharper edge than the 320, what i need is the smoothest cutter for field dressing wild game. why not go from the 120 then the 320
it's a bit softer than i would like it. not the softest 320 grit stone, but hard enough that you don't have to worry about flattening too often, if you move the knife around the stone during sharpening.
So if you are sharpening knives for neighbors friends how do you know what type hardness of the knife no knife that I have sharpened doesn't give any info but I can tell in sharpening some knives I just can't get sharp my shun is tuff to get burr ?
Hi, you don't. You can always try find some info online men most of the times you don't know. Of the knife is on the softer side try sharpen for higher angel, maybe 20-30 degrees. Only than you will get your burr very fast if you don't feel like to put a lot of wasted energy and time on 15 degree burr. Hope you understand me there 😅 Don't put plenty of time and energy, just go for a higher degree.
Burrfection I'm actually a fan because the zwilling are thicker than the shapton. My complaint is they're a black color. I'm a noob so seeing how much metal is being removed is helpful
