If you like this video check out our other Sharpening vidoes: -32 seconds to sharp: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-okLIEoz00v0.html -Got sharp Chisels? :ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-FIMx5HWLHdI.html - 6 Sharpening Mistakes: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-JYMZjVBWDUA.html
I love all your sharpening videos. They're EXTREMELY helpful. One question: do you use some sort of tray on your sharpening platform to contain the wet mess? Maybe something like a boot tray for a mud room? Thanks!
@@jeredelmore He uses an amazon basics pet feeding tray. Just got one and then when I saw his 32 seconds to sharp video I realized it's the same one. Works great! Search amazon for: Amazon Basics Waterproof Anti-Slip Silicone Pet Food and Water Bowl Mat
I had my grandfather’s old block plane and #5 and I couldn’t get any kind of shaving with them, I thought ahhh they’re useless, sadly they were lost in a fire. Later I found Rob (you) and bought a wood river 5-1/2 and sharpened it the way you taught me, suddenly my eyes were open to the beauty and serenity of hand tool woodworking and for that sir I can’t thank you enough!
My dad taught me to use my fingernail to test knife blades decades ago. Never heard anyone suggest using a fingernail for testing sharpness in any way other than from my dad, and his method always worked for me.
Hi Rob, Not sure if it's been mentioned before, but an additional advantage to the use of a back bevel is in the case of old Stanley planes which have often been put away with a lot of sappy dust jammed in that bulge where the chip breaker contacts the iron. This can result in some serious visible pitting but, even if it's not visible, there will probably be a fair amount of fine honeycomb pitting on the back of many of those old plane irons which will make it impossible to get a truly straight cutting edge. Using a back bevel can correct this issue and produce a fine non-serrated edge even on old irons that aren't in very good shape.
Superb. You've managed to scatter a few more gems on to a topic that you've already covered in outstanding clarity and depth. This has got to be the best collection of edge sharpening resources available anywhere. Pure gold dust. Thanks.
Rob, this is another fantastic video. Keep up the great work. One technical comment...people shouldn't be concerned with wax residue left on the workpiece. The vast majority of the wax is left on the shavings.
I just wanted to so I got my bevel gauge I ordered.. and OH MAN!! I could not be happier!! This is the best bevel gauge I have ever used!!!! I also want to say thank you for the care that goes into a order and how far yall go. I think you guys go above and beyond!! Thank you all! (I know its a team effort)
This is exactly why you are the Professor. Great explanation Rob. Had 2 of my grandsons watch a couple of your videos. Then had them sharpen the IBC blade I bought from you for my 5 1/2,came out perfect. So now at 74 old Papa has a new way to sharpen. Semper Fi.
Thanks Rob, I really appreciated the magnified images, and the level of detail you have put in to explaining what is happening in the sharpening process.
Thank you Rob, I think I have watched every video you have done about sharpening. I have been able to restore a couple of my Great Grandfather’s planes. He was a cabinet maker around the turn of the 19th century. I never met the man but we have plenty of conversations. Especially when I find myself frustrated with some aspect of woodworking. My only question is when do you sleep?
Great video with great information. I appreciated that it was 15 minutes long. While I enjoy the longer videos too, I wouldn't have clicked on this particular video if it were longer than, say, 20 minutes. Keep up the great work Rob & team!
Terrific video ... I finally get all the bevels ... honestly they always confused me and I have been apprehensive about sharpening my new 5 1/2’s blade. Those diagrams really helped me understand what I am trying to achieve. I’m ready to put my sharpening gear to work.
I've been able to sharpen a blade ever since I saw your videos for the first time. But, knowing the physics and geometry of a sharp blade will make it much easier in the future
A concise and thorough lesson in the fundamental theory of blade sharpening. Pure woodworking gold. Understanding why makes the how much easier to remember and gives confidence to pursue learning the skill to actually sharpen plane and chisel blades. I am still developing that skill but at least I have confidence that Rob's methods and recommended sharpening equipment have me going in the right direction. Thank you Rob and faithful son Jake on the camera.
Thanks for sharing Rob. Great explanation. Our work will no doubt improve in quality because of your teaching these types of topics. Thanks to you all.
Hi Rob, good advice as usual, although I was a little confused at first when you mentioned the "back bevel", especially as it was shown to be quite steep on your diagram (yes, I realise in reality it would be almost impossible to illustrate the actual angle). I've seen a similar back bevel used to provide a steeper cutting angle for difficult timbers. The DC "ruler trick" works for me.
Another great video, the science of why, is one of the key concepts of understanding abstract theory. You took a difficult concept and made is easy to understand, that makes you a great teacher. Thanks
One day you should also do a show on what shavings should look like from Common wood species. I notice the shavings from your plane are from Cherry. But I would also like to see what a sharp blade does to Red Oak, White Oak, Ponderosa Pine, Yellow Pine, White Pine, White Oak, etc.....I know there's a bunch of wood species but it would be cool to see like a top 10 and the shavings they produce. Thanks
As much as I try to sharpen the blade and set up the hand plan I can't get a great results, I guess I need to keep practicing, thanks alot for high detailed videos
This was a great tutorial! I also watched your "32 Seconds to Sharp" video a million times, and now I think I'm ready to put my new Lie Nielsen plane blade to stone. The secondary/tertiary and back bevel (Ruler Trick) concepts make perfect sense from an engineering perspective with respect to modern thick blades of A-2 or more exotic alloys. I do have a couple of questions, however: what do you mean when you say that the purpose of the secondary bevel is for straightening? Don't you start off with a straight primary bevel edge? I was also a bit mystified as to how you can sharpen two micro bevels by hand without rounding over the edge on subsequent sharpenings since there's no way to reproduce the exact same angles every time manually. But it just dawned on me that since the tertiary bevel you produce is so minuscule, it will be entirely re-established with every sharpening, so it wouldn't matter if the new tertiary is 1 or 2 degrees more or less than the previous, since there would be nothing left of the old one. Is this correct, or am I missing something? My second question is with regard to the back bevel. Do you do anything to the chip breaker to compensate for the change of angle so it could mate perfectly, or is this unnecessary? Thanks. By the way, your dovetail saw is absolutely superb.
This is the best video to share when you have a friend or acquaintance says, "But why?" BTW, shaving the hair is just for show, shaving the wood is for business.
Great explanations you’re a great teacher. I enjoy all your videos and web events. I like hand sharpening but as a hobby woodworker I find it’s often difficult when you go several months between projects you tend to lose that hand training. I often use a combination of both hand and jig sharpening, depending on the size of the project and how much sharpening I will do and follow the processes you’ve laid out. Small projects I often use a jig, but larger projects it’s easy to get back in hand shape. I really enjoy your teaching, this video is a great companion to your other sharpening videos as it takes you past the process, imparting the knowledge and understanding.
Hi Rob, Fantastic video, thank you. As I transition into hand tools, from the more machine tool approach, I am not there yet, wrt completely hand sharp. (I do hope to get there in the future) I am currently using the Tormek system, and my question to you would be, should I sharpen a secondary bevel and even tertiary bevel whilst using that machine?
Thanks for the great video Rob! Convinced me to sharpen using your style. I was previously trying to polish the entire primary bevel and this is really time consuming. I know you like the conventional bevel down planes but what about a low angle jack plane with various blades ground at different angles (25, 37, 45, etc). Seems more versatile to me
I am troubled with my sharpening abilities at 74 with arthritis by hand. Would my wood working be better off if I used jig of some kind. Would you have any recommendations? I have purchased your CBN wheel to correct screw ups and to start over. Thank you for the videos.
Using a jig is fine and probably best in your case. An inexpensive wheel jig is fine . You will need to build a wood jig to go with it to set the length of the blade. Lie Nelson has a free video that shows how. If you want a jig with all the bells and whistles and already has everything built in go with the Veritas Mark II jig
LOL. I do enjoy your videos and I usually learn something. Being a retired engineer and a geek, your first graphic has an error: "Planer Surface" should be "Planar Surface". A planer is a piece of equipment, planar is a geometric term. My first thought when the video started was "Hmm. Maybe we're going to learn how to sharpen planer knives..." ;-)
Do you ever go straight from planning to the 16000 grit stone do both top and bottom and go back to planning? Similarly as going back to a leather strop every - minutes
Waxing . . . I have a tin of table saw wax and I keep a small peice of denim cloth inside that has become impregnated. It is great for the table saw and wood planes too.
Hi Rob, I apologize for posting this here but I am not sure whether the RobCosman.com customer support system is working at the moment. I placed an order last year and it was dispatched in late September but I have not received it yet. I checked regularly with my local post office and communicated with RobCosman.com customer support on this. We agreed to wait and see whether the package would arrive in the new year given Covid. It has been more than five months since the package was dispatched and I fear it has been lost in the mail. I have not received any further feedback from customer support on this over the last few weeks.
I passed this on to three folks in customer service, we will get it taken care of. Sorry Johann, hate to say it but we have had problems with posting packages to your country in the past. someone will be in touch. cheers Rob
Great video, not how to do but the science behind it. A better understanding of why motivates us to do a better job, well done thank you. One other somewhat important point, you said something like, a dull tool is a dangerous tool because it produces shoddy work. Yes it is dangerous but only in part because it does not produce quality work. I believe the statement finds it roots in the fact that you are, by a huge margin, more likely to get cut with a dull tool. Consider pushing on that chisel and you run into some tough grain that is when the chisel slips and that is when one gets cut. This “A dull tool is a dangerous tool” statement is also well known in the world of chefs and meat cutters. They all know, many by experience, how a dull tool slips off target so much easier than a sharp tool. This also applies to power tools, consider a dull jointer where you have to push harder to get the wood through and then it hits cantankerous grain and the board kicks out. Not only is the lumber usually ruined, but if not using an appropriate push block one's hand could be in the jointer. Been there, seen that, not pretty!
Yes you are correct. You have less control with a dull tool meaning its more dangerous because you must apply more force thus loosing control and that’s when accidents happen
It's a good video, but I think the diagram may be misleading. The back bevel shown is like 60 degrees, whereas the ruler trick back bevel is like maybe 2 degrees.
Mr Cosman, how does this method of sharpening, with the tertiary bevel and back bevel, affect tearout? I ask because I have some exceptionally wonky-grained maple on my bench right now for a table I am building and I can't make a pass from any direction, no matter which plane or throat setting, that doesn't get tearout. As an aside, I keep my irons razor sharp. If I could get through this build without any more tearout, I'd be a convert to your method. As of now I'd decided to use wood filler and do a paint finish because of this.
It’s not a remedy for controlling tear out however, you can apply a 20 degree back bevel on a second blade. Make it about 2mm wide and polish it to 16k or as high as the tertiary. I did a video on making this high angle blade. You will need a jig to hold the blade as you create the 20 degree back bevel.
I've seen that on standard angled plane blades a heavy back bevel (20 to 30 degrees) can be used to plane very difficult woods. Can this be done on low angle planes too? I have a small piece of ipe but my plane can't take fine shavings like it does on softer woods. Thank you.
Can a plane blade act like a knife blade in that, when in use, the edge can roll over vs wearing away? Or is the structure of the plane and how it's used keeping that from happening? Just wondering if the occasional strop would keep the blade sharp.
Yes a plane or chiisel blade can roll over. If you are cutting in very hard wood this can happen. Pure leather stropping i dont like. You can strop with a compound to refresh the edge but you can do the same with a quick trip to a 16 K stone which is my preferred method
Hi I ordered your shapton 16000 grit and trend 300/1000 and hone right earlier today. I was curious if the hone right is more or less effective if kept in a 0-4degree fridge as apposed to an unheated insulated garage
When I am sharping the blade on my folton plane part of my edge is rough then goes to smooth. Its very fine on the rough part , should I grind it or keep going on my stones?
Just curious how such an in demand item like the 5.5 Jack plane is 4 months backordered? Does Woodcraft/Wood River not want to make money? Rob, get them up to speed because you're all losing a lot of sales to the competition. Fact.
Seems there’s too many bevels. Wood doesn’t understand how much is the blare faceted, it only needs one thin line to go through it, that’s the cutting line or cutting wire.
Absolutely that is the zero radius cutting edge. The question is how to achieve that quickly and not spend a lot of time sharpening, this is where micro bevels help out,
I think that is very true when sharpening by hand. This is because it’s naturally impossible to be consistent achieving the same angle every time. This is same even when using honing guides with little accuracy. However, if one can be fairly accurate with a good honing guide, perhaps using a stop block for consistency, so that they can sharpen precisely every time with the same angle, then they can achieve a good secondary bevel in matter of seconds and get a back bevel only the first time they use the blade or when necessary. However that comes back to whether one likes or not honing guides, but that’s another topic.
Like your comment about a dull blade requiring more effort and loss of control, I think you need to emphasize not pressing too hard on the stone. The stone does the work. Pressing too hard you lose the feel.
I am using the Trend 300/1000 and the Shapton 16000. I use a jig. I don't care about the extra time and I want consistency. One problem. I home the secondary bevel on the 1000 Trend and get a burr all the way across. Then when I raise the angle by a degree or two and use the 16000, the polish is only in the center of the blade. I find that I need to increase the pressure on the two sides to get a polish all the way across. What is my problem?
