My cabinetmaker drilled my holes misaligned, so now I have to drill my own holes and the cabinets are already installed on the wall. Is this still the best way? It seems like a router would be kind of heavy and awkward to hold at a vertical angle.
On existing cabinets I'd recommend drilling instead with one of these jigs... amzn.to/3V0VAf8 or this one amzn.to/3wLpI4D with this bit amzn.to/3K9C1e4 Best of luck!
A Forstner bit would help with the tear out. But it doesn't really keep the bit perpendicular like a plunge router. Thanks for weighing in. Best to you
@@TheThoughtfulWoodworker you aren't going in deep enough for it to matter and setting up a router and jig takes way too long and you can't use it on cabinets that are already installed and need to be repaired. I've been a cabinetmaker for many years and that's how we do it when we aren't using the Blum multi-bit boring machine or CNC.
@@krenwregget7667 I agree it wouldn't work well for cabinet repairs, but a router works well on new boxes. My methods won't compete with a line boring machine!
I am unfamiliar with the brass guide bushing and the base plate that would hold it. Can you elaborate on that aspect? It wasn't really covered in the video, just mentioned at the 1:48 mark (and pictured at the 2:00 minute mark).
Hi Jim. So most routers have a base plate that will directly accept 1-3/16" diameter guide bushings. Bosch is a notable exception, and their routers require an adapter kit to accept guide bushings. The guide bushing set I use is from WoodRiver... amzn.to/3Ir267T There are cheaper steel sets available, but I like the brass type with relatively short projections. Very useful for cutting shelf pin holes or following templates and patterns. Here's another video that shows how I usually use guide bushings... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-D4-EMtti3wU.html Best to you.
@@TheThoughtfulWoodworkerThanks for the info! Naturally, I would have a Bosch router...LOL! I'll look into it, as I am about to do a whole bunch of shelf pin holes for my new walk-in closet system - which is how I got to your video in the first place. One question: How does one go about cutting the recesses to allow the pins to sit into the bottom of the shelf so that the shelf cannot slide forward on the pins? It seems that the depth would need to be kept very precise and consistent - or are they even necessary?
They are usually unnecessary. I've only made notches under the shelf on one occasion on an entertainment center. That was to make sure the TV didn't tip forward. Here's the adapter kit you'll need for a Bosch router... amzn.to/3wItQSC @@jimsulsona4128 Best to you.
@@TheThoughtfulWoodworkerThanks for the info. Using your process, I was able to create absolutely perfect pin holes for the closet system I am working on. I tested many options, and your procedure produced the best results - BY FAR! A couple of caveats I came across that I found might be helpful for viewers to know: Note the depth of the flanges on the guide bushing because, in my case, it exceeded the thickness of the plastic drilling jig, which meant that the base plate would not sit flat on the drilling jig, and that in turn would allow the router to wobble - so I had to create a thin "spacer" under the jig so that the router would sit flat on the jig. Also, I noticed that it was critical to make sure the router bit was perfectly centered in the guide bushing opening. The first time I lowered the router bit, it grazed the edge of the guide bushing hole! This is because there is the tiniest bit of "play" that occurs on the base plate of the Bosch plunge router. I had to loosen and then re-tighten the base plate so that it allowed the bit to be correctly centered in the guide hole. Once that was corrected, the results were fantastic! Thanks again.
Hey that's great Jim, and thanks for the additional tip. As far as the guide bushings being too long, I've encountered that issue as well. Usually I just grind the bushing down to 1/4" length. Glad it worked out. @@jimsulsona4128
