For economy of switch cost and gang space a single momentary can be a good compromise. With the single switch mode on the Shelly dimmers you can use long press once for brighter and long press again for darker. And short press to toggle. Sometimes a good compromise especially when you have multiple switches and are intending to rely more on automatic brightness level adjustments with an occasional override. I believe you can also connect an iconic led to the switch output to illuminate the switch, but I'm not sure how the led would react to the dimmed output. Probably a good option for Shelly 1/2.5s etc with things like exhaust fans, since the quieter ones are hard to know if they're on sometimes.
I might try that, if you added a 100nF mains cap to the led I think it would work ok. The shelly dimmer actually work best with the iconic control link mechs the only problem is they are so expensive and physically large, they cost more than the dimmer.
@@SparkyJames yeah I noticed the iconics really need a deep wall box which doesn't help you much if you're not willing to dig a standard one out and replaster and paint. Have you seen the new Shelly i4. 4 x switch inputs anywhere you can put a Shelly, comes in 240v AC or 24V DC models. With scripting capability in the module itself. I find myself hesitant to make Home Assistant a dependency of my light switch operation, but at the same time a wifi relay won't help you control a Zigbee light which is one of the most viable ways to get white spectrum control without going down the route of DALI. Still doesn't solve the problem of iconic mechs being so damn large though. But if you were using 24V DC it does open you up to importing switch plates from aliexpress etc without worrying about safety hazards, or DIY plates.
Hi James, what if you are retrofitting these into a switch that is on a gyprock timber stud wall. Is there a box available that can be retrofitted into a gyprock wall. My whole house is brick veneer and I would like to use these though all the wall plates have either stud brackets or c-clips holding the switch plate on. Also, did you buy these direct from Shelly UK? What was the timeline like to get them from Shelly? Great videos. Keep up the good work!
I just setup a Shelly1 and am happy with it. I want to setup a dimmer in my living room. There is already a dimmer switch with a rotary style dimmer, you push this rotary dimmer in for on/off and turn it to adjust brightness. Will this work with the Shelly dimmer? I noticed you connected two switches for up/down. The alternative is I’m going to install brilliant smart dimmer mechs but they cost much more than the Shelly
Hi Ryan, you can use just a single switch as well that works fine with the Shelly dimmer, with both the Shelly and brilliant dimmer you will need to have a neutral or be able to get a neutral easily installed into your switch box for it to work, almost all rotary dimmers are 2wire, no neutral needed. If there is no neutral there is the Shelly dimmer 2wire version that doesn't need a neutral. I think the Shelly is better as I use it with home assistant, I have tuya converted a brilliant jupitor dimmer, but it was just a pain and it never really worked properly with home assistant. And as the other brilliant dimmer is pretty pricey as you said already I decided against it, it is also only trailing edge for some reason. Where the Shelly is trailing or leading.
Jimmy James thanks for the reply. I haven’t really setup home assistant or Tuya but at some stage in the future I probably will. The Shelly is working well with my google setup at the moment. I’ve got neutrals in all my switch boxes, house was built about 5y ago. I think I need to keep the rotary dials as my wife isn’t really keen on the smart home stuff, she prefers just the usual so if there’s a way I can connect the Shelly and still have the exterior look the same (and function the same) without the smart features then it’ll be a bonus. The brilliant dimmer mech may not actually fit in my switch box as there’s 6 switches on the wall and I understand those mechs are a bit beefy with the smart capabilities
What category do they fall into that they don't need certification in Australia? As you stated in a reply to a query on here. Please post link so I can read it please.
If I do not have a neutral and am powering 2 x 10w downlights will I need to purchase the Bypass also if I use the Shelly Dimmer 2? I am using a Shelly 1L, no dimmer of course and that works ok without a Bypass with 2 x 10w downlights.
@@SparkyJames I can not purchase the Shelly Bypass in Australia. I assume that I need to purchase from Shelly Europe so may as well purchase the 5 dimmers I need from them also. I assume that is where you picked yours up from?
You're right I should have put that in, you can find a the demo of the lights dimming at the start of the first video I made, it's also got a close up look of the insides of the dimmer if that interests you at all. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-0WD5t9vBOyg.html
Hey Jimmy, did you have a recommendation for models of 90mm dimmables downlights readily available from Perth suppliers? I tried the Philips flush mounted but I think I'd prefer something with a small recess at least.
Down lights that are slightly recessed to look nicer, I use voltex downlights, they are good to deal with and have a 7 year warranty, the only one that does as far as I’m aware. Email me and I’ll send you a spec sheet and pricing. If you want really nice downlights with high CRI they come in lots of sizes and various styles, check out Unios lighting you can get them in Perth from HS Reflections I use them quite bit I’ve pretty much swapped my house out for Unios down lights now, because the light quality it better, they cost more obviously.
@@SparkyJames Thanks Jimmy, After a bit of research I've decided SMD isn't for me and I'm keen for COB. I'll check prices on the Unios, but have you ever dealt with Trend Lighting EconoLEDs. 85+ CRI IC-F COB Downlights. Also, when you're using lights with remote drivers, where do you physically put the driver when there's insulation filled everywhere.
@@SparkyJames Hello Jimmy, pretty good information, great video Thanks. Can you please advise what model of the Unios downlights you used. Also if you can let me know of other downlight brands with high CRI (should I also bother with high Lumens like 900 -1100 lms or doesnt matter). I am talking to builder electrician now and they have included the clipsal downlights, which to me seems pretty standard with
Wouldn't it also be possible to make a controller in something like NodeRED that turns the light up if the light is turned on when it's dimmed too much, followed by it being dimmed back to starting point?
Active/line goes to one terminal on the switch, the second terminal goes to SW1 on the Shelly dimmer. You may need to setup the switch in the Shelly to be a momentary push button instead of a toggle. The 3 L terminals on the Shelly are internally linked for convenient wiring, you won’t always need to use them, but the Shelly need at least on Line/active feed. It actually works well the control link switch, as it’s designed for low current
@@JamesEggleston hey James. Thanks mate legend, I’ve wired it like that but it seems when the switch is pressed, no voltage is switching to the output. It will control via the app but not the switch. In options to set the button, I don’t have an option for momentary? Am I looking in the wrong place haha
Hi Jimmy, I know they do models now for when you don't have the neutral at the switch, but it's there any reason is you only have the switch wire at the switch that you couldn't install the Shelly at the light fitting?
Hi David , you could it is possible but it usually doesn’t work due to space in the light/s and you have to keep the dimmer in a reasonably cool environment, they don’t work in a hot roof space , I’ve tried. So the wall box at the switch is usually the best space.
Most(?) of the homes in Australia don't have boxes behind the wall plates. Do you add a box to the wall when you install the shelly? what box do you use ?
Yes, thats is true, most houses in WA have double brick and hence clipsal 157/1P wall boxes already installed if the house is existing. You could actually mount the same box in the hollow wall or use an insulation shroud like NLS 30469 OR maybe just leave them loose in the wall but you or your electrician would need to think about the last one to decide if thats ok, some may not like to do that. The 157/1P also comes in a deeper version but it is a lot more expensive as it is not as widely used, if you do have the luxury of brick I usually mount the box a lot deeper in the wall to give me more space.
We have the new Clipsal Zen switches installed in a recent renovation. Will the Shelly Dimmers work with it? We have a 2 way 2 gang switch in the lounge and dining room and our sparky told us that on the Clipsal Zen 2 way switches don’t work with dimmers. Just wondering if this is could be a workaround?
Hi Sharon, you can get dimmers for ZEN switches, and they can be used on 2 way switches, there maybe additional issues, one that I can think of is if you have back lights on the switches, they wouldn't work properly with dimmers if there was no neutral at the wall box. Yes a shelly dimmer would work the only issue is that they don't have Australian approval so you would need to source them yourself and find someone to install them, which I can't recommend as a good idea. Unfortunately most people will need to wait till a distributor in Australia has them registered as a safe appliance.
Yep fair enough although I do believe that we have neutral wires around all our switches. If it is an issue of Australian approval is the Aeotec Nano Dimmer pretty much a comparable product?
@@sharonxwee Yes I have them in my house , the Nano Dimmer is one of the better ones, and it is comparable, you will need a zwave network to at least set it up, and if you want to use it remotely need to have it setup to Home Assisant(or similar system) with a Zwave gateway. Zwave can be a pain to get working and can be laggy this is to achieve low energy use withn the control device it self which is why I don't realy like it having worked with it for years. If you are not planing on setting up a complete automation system like Home Assistant and just want a dimmer that works with a pushbutton, the other thing you could use that is australian certified is this kasta.com.au/module-trailing-edge-dimmer , if you want any more specific help you can contact me through my website.
It actually wouldn't be suitable for USA we have 240v and the plate grid size is different. But you have sonmething better we don't have, look for a momentary Single Pole Double-Throw Center-Off Rocker Switch, most likely use for blinds for up and down. That would work great. Unfortunately I'm not familiar with US brand and styles, so I can't give an advise in that area.
Hi Garry, I’ve tried both, one is actually better, in some countries they have a sort of rocker switch in one for up and down which is why they have the feature available.
@@garryw1159 No just use a momentary push button, like the Clipsal 30pbbp-we HPM and legrand don't have push buttons you can use. There is unfortunately not a lot of choice
Hi, What kind of bulbs do you use? I've tried with 3 models of osram and all of them are flickering when the dimming is lower that 100%, the more dimming the more flickering. :(
The globes need to be dimmable all globe packets will have a little triangle with a round dimmer symbol and it'll be crossed out if it's not dimmable, and quite a few are not dimmable. The most notable thing about dimmable globes is they are usually about double the price. Secondly if it is dimmable with just one globe only you will need a neutral connection for it to work properly.
@@SparkyJames Yes, I've already tried that. Bought another model of dimmable osram gu10 and works now, so have to replace all the old ones unfortunately.
Just playing with my new Shelly dimmers now. Ive copied your Yaml config for dimmer, i can add as a light card in lovelace, lets me turn on/off but im getting no response from adjusting the light level.
Hi , I'm not sure what the issue is but, I will need to update the description on this video, as I recommend you use Shelly for Hass intergration ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-DCj_FNh0byE.html is very very easy to use.
I got them straight from the Shelly website, and there have been no major issues, delivered by DHL each time, once they left out one item from my package and I emailed shelly and they sent out the missing item.
Is there anywhere that sells the Clipsal momentary switches to non-electricians? I haven't been able to find them anywhere... do you have a part number to help me search?
Clipsal 30PBBP-WE most wholesalers sell them, it depends who you talk too at the desk as to what price you get, but around $17inc is what they cost, they are actually rated at 16A which is crazy over the top for what we are doing with them and the shelley. Unfortunately that is pretty much the only viable push button choice that exists in the Australia. I did try making my own and it has been work well for over a year, but it was a lot of work and I tried again but it was a little hit and miss with reliability printing part that fit exactly and works mechanically.
@@SparkyJames wow, the website say $64ea. It also says that they are discontinued. Even at $17 it really pushes up the price. I wonder if there are any cheaper, good quality alternatives from overseas? Would the only problem be that there don’t fit the wall boxes here?
nice bro 10 out 10 just got the dimmer playing with it on the table one thing I dont like is if dim it then turn off and on it back to the that dim level :( BUT here a automation I wrote ``` - id: Lounge Light ON alias: Lounge Light ON trigger: - entity_id: light.shelly_lounge platform: state to: 'on' action: - data: entity_id: light.shelly_lounge brightness_pct: 100 service: light.turn_on ``` now it always come on at 100% :)
Does anyone know of good set of switches for north american gang style like these. The shelly dimmer 2 now has the kickstart but it is not adjustable and comes on too bright causing a strobe flash
There are a lack of descent switches in general to work with shelly device's and similar products, they ideally need a tactile switch. Shelly themselves make a pretty cool plate but it's only for EU.
Hi Frank, these dimmers don't fall into a category that require electrical certification. However according to an industry newsletter, which at this point I haven't been able to relocate to quote, the responsibility is for the licenced electrician to determine if a product is safe or suitable to use in Australia in the location it is to be installed in. I say that because I would not install this dimmer in a roof space or a hollow wall cavity, but only in a wall box, as this video shows.
Hi Ravi, results will vary. The flicker has more to do with the light than the dimmer, is the short answer. But the only time I have had it is a very low levels and I'm not sure if it is a coincidence but with more expensive fittings. But it no case has it been very noticeable.
Hi James. Thank you very much for this video! I am located in Australia too. I have used Sonoff Mini for switching lights and they have never failed. On the other hand, two Shelly Dimmer already burnt behind my wall. I am using Downlight LED Philips MR16 12VAC 8W Dimmable which are each behind their own transformer wirewound ATCO TM50-2 Iron Core 240 / 12 Volt 50VA. I suspect the Shelly may not be handling the old Iron Core transformers. The last Shelly dimmer fried only only dealing with a simple load: 1 LED + 1 tansformer! I have logged a ticket with Shelly technical support. And I am planning to do tests with other transformers. In the meantime, can you please let me know what use as a transformer please?
JR, it's possible the Shelly dimmers burnt from LED inrush current. It's something I didn't know about and apparently not many electricians commonly know. An LED it turns out can have an inrush current 100 times the nominal supplied current which can fuse switches and relays. A tech at HPM put me on to this when a sensor switch I had fused close with only a 21 Watt load from 3 7W LEDs, 240V. Google it.
@@bernardjennings2782 Thanks for this Bernard. I replaced the old Iron Core transformers with the LEDVance OSRAM 12 Volt 40 Watt Redback Downlight Slimline Transformers, and the problem is gone. These modern Osram transformers may well prevent these inrush currents. I was told that the Osram redbacks have been the industry standard in Australia for a while now and work well with the Philips MR16.
Yes, Shelly app connects the Shelly dimmers to google voice assistant. However I have home assistant connected to home assistant cloud, so everything in my house that is connected to home assistant (which is almost everything) including the Shelly dimmers can be controlled by google, echo, and Siri.
Loses settings after power cut. Useless for smart home. Edit: I take it back! They work flawless if you buy from Shelly store. Don't get counterfeit stuff from Amazon!
