Hitting 10000 hours just goes to show that the old Internationals just never quit! Our 1086 was rebuilt and painted 10 years ago and has about 550 hours on it.
Glad to hear you have restoration plans when the time comes. We have had an 806, 1466, but my go to tractor is my 886. I know and understand that lots of folks give the 86 series poor reviews due to the shift issues. But we have found that a can of chain spray lube and a few minutes a week manage it very well. You must have done great service to get that many hours of use and a full restore will provide many more. Hopefully you have restoration plans in mind for the 1466 as well, great old tractors.
Lmao that is my favorite joke of the year so far ...... since we don’t have a JD we had to get something that sucked ! Lol awesome video really interesting to see how you fixed the international as well !
The best way to fix the shifter shaft on the top cover of the transmission is to replace the shaft going down through the cover. There is an update that does away with that plate with the flat sides. The new shaft has a plate with a bolt to tighten around the shaft and a roll pin the goes through. It makes a world of a difference. I has fixed a lot of them.
Fuel treatments like Power Service have slick diesel additives in it to lubricate the lift and injector pumps. I think Howe’s is another top rated additive not sure what’s in it for lubrication tho.
Good investments on those linkages and stuff... and a great "farmer fix" on the snap ring issue on the shifter! On the splined ends, a little JB Weld smeared into the splines and then push it together would fix that... might make it harder to take apart, BUT if you need to replace it at some point well you're gonna be replacing parts anyway so no worries... plus a torch will break the stuff down if needed to get it apart. All those little bits of clearance daisy-chain together to make it REALLY sloppy... the more you can get out of it, the tighter you can get each joint, the tighter overall it will be. Later! OL J R :)
ive have deere and ih and both are great, i like the controls better on the deeres and i like the dual ptos better on the ih. its like the argue between ford and chevy, remington and mossberg, all work great its just what you prefer.
To tighten up the splined lever arms shown at 2:45 could you remove a couple of teeth, equally spaced, from the ID spline of the lever arm creating grooves to accept roll pins at those locations. The roll pins would cradle in the shaft spline tooth locally creating a keyed feature, taking up any play between parts.
Check out all states ag parts. They have aftermarket parts that are way cheaper than going to a dealer. Some of your shifting issues may be in your transmission top cover. The bushings get worn out where the shafts that move the shifting forks go through
If IH had ever developed a decent shifting system I believe they might still be around. In so many ways they were better than other brands. Dual pto shafts are SO nice. No one else had 16 speed tractors in the 60's and early 70's (with apologies to Olivers, but that over/under was . . . different). And that 6 cylinder German diesel was the best engine ever.
Until they went belly up and had to be rescued by case , HAHAHA LAUGH my ass off . Ever notice how those big red guys always come up with excuses for those P.O.S. alleged tractors , HAHAHA !!!!!
1)John Deere has a really good marketing team. They could sell snow to a Eskimo or sell rain to Jacob. Lol 2)JD almost went belly up until a ford transmission design saved them 3) JD really got into the lawnmower business or they may have suffered the same fate as the other brands.
"Better to remain silent and be thought a fool that to open one's mouth and remove all doubt" - Abraham Lincoln Hope making foolish, rude comments boosts your sense of purpose in the world.
Bryan Covert the new magnum that came out in 87 basically saved case. It was a IH design and if they would have lasted longer as a company..would probably still be here today.
Damn snap ring ran out of snap and had to much ring sounds like. Lol. Make the old stuff run as long as you can. That’s why I drive a 1970 f100 still. Easy to work on.
Good to see you sorting out the problems and you will have a another fully working tractor now when you have time and your working on the tractor could your straighten up the exhaust is there doors for the cab??? Or it’s it just a safety frame I’d say your top link casting broke because of the lift arm moving about with nothing really to hold the from going left and right but now you have sorted that problem it should be good for years now
We have the doors, one hinge is brook. The a/c doesn't work, probably no heat either. I have straightened the exhaust so many times..... it needs some help to the piping under the hood.
Another great fix Jacob. It takes time to learn all these different things about running equipment but keep them in the back of your mind in one day there won't be anything you can't fix quickly. Hope the winter passes quickly for you. Waiting on the patreon page.
Doesn’t wear any faster or slower than John Deere’s synchro transmissions do and definitely easier/cheaper than rebuilding a power shift. Usually it’s the c-2 clutch pack that goes out on the old powershit like the 20 series had since it was the most used.
I think those two wobbly shift bars have snaprings on both sides. If you get high quality snap rings to replace all four of the snap rings I think your side to side play will be cut in half. If needed. I THINK you have made it useable now instead of having to go into a song and dance routine to shift from high to low.
Time to consider a Ford 8210 4wd would make a good replacement , for a reliable workhorse .then you could do a Rebiuld on the IH 1086 as money alows . Just my 2 pence worth , your the boss . Thank you for the video , keeping older stuff going is always a challenge.👍
I have thought about an 8210. My only qualm is thatthe tractor is at thetop end of horsepower for the transmission. I'd probably go after a TW instead.
The 8210 gearbox is probably within its limits beacause when this skid unit was converted to a county the constant mesh box was ok ,it was more likely to wear out the crown wheel faster .on what was basically a Ford 6610 diff especially if it was used for a lot of ploughing . But you are right the TW Box is much stronger our TW 30 did over 10,000 hours with no trouble and often on FRONT and Rear Double wheels. 👍
Got over 12,000 hours on the 886, still runs great. Put one TA and rebuilt PTO in it at 5000 hrs and just rebuilt the PTO again this spring. I think what kills the pto is running low throttle under high load.
Indeed, the earlier models required 185 psi and the later models needed 235 at pto speed. I know a lot of people set the pressure too high after rebuild and usually end up stripping out the spline hub on the main clutch.
Best Make sure you have the Spring Trans brake Properly Adjusted thats what i have found to help the most on the 86 series shifting. most of the aftermarket brands of 86 series trans parts i never cared for they never seem to help as much as the Genuine OEM for me
Hey I noticed you have wheel weights on the inside as well as the out side of the wheels. How long of bolts did you use? I want to do the same on my 1066 because I can't stack another set on the outside because of the dual hubs
I used 3/4 inch ready rod idk how long they are honestly two foot or so. Got three weight sets on the inside and one set on the outside. Only way I could keep my weights and duel hubs. Oh get a bunch of nuts to put your rod in the hub. I dont remember how I did this ... if there was room for just nuts or I put one set of weights on. But tighten your rods down to the hub before putting your weights on the inside. Keeps the rods from flopping around and so much easier to line up the weight holes and gives you a nice place to get one hole in and then you can rest. Because they get heavy and not a lot of room to work. One last thing. Instead of putting all the weights on then a nut, I tightened a nut in between each weight to keep it all fastened.
Do they have off road diesel your way? You can not get it at stations, but if they bring fuel to your farm ask for it. More lube for your pump. Nice fix.
Hey there! I have the same problem on my 886, but it needs that shaft that u said it was 300-400 dollars? I cant seem to find that part online, how did you fins it and could you send me thw link please? Thanks!
I can tell when you moved the shift shaft with your new arm on it, the detent is not right. Prolly spring missing under cover. When you have it apart, get the improved shift shaft from hy- capacity that has a pin thru it, and a new style arm, plus it has a bolt to also clamp it tight. That new arm you bought. return it. It will never stay tight. Also on that high low shift lever that you fixed the snap ring; on the bottom it, it has a tab that goes in a slot when you push lever over to go high or low. I have had to build it up so it fits the notch better. What happens is, when you pull it out of park and move lever to go to high or low, it will fall back into park because it wasn't quite pulled all the way out...then lever is in high and tractor also in park.....you been there! The loose shifter arm will cause it to happen also, when going from high to park. It falls back into high when the detent spring pulls it back in. With a sloppy arm, your shift lever can be pulled over to push it in park, but sloppy arm never really had the tranny all the way out of high and detent spring pulls it back into high. Bam, now your park and high. Good luck at fixing , you always have a good attitude and you seem to enjoy working on stuff, and not afraid to tear into it something.
If you've got the time to wait, check out McMaster-Carr for things like those ball joint linkages. They're not the cheapest, but would have beat your dealer.
hey did u get snow last weekend , seen on news of another 100 year storm on eastern usa, geee u guys get one of those 1 in a 100 year storms every year......
The pipe out the top is good, it needs help with the piping from the turbo up. The muffler is good. I don't want ti straight pipe it, but I I know that muffler isn't cheap. I have straightened the elbow where the bend is so many times. ....
@@boehmfarm4276 o ya theres nothing wrong with the top pipe. i have that same 1 on my 1586. if the muffler is still good i'd keep using it. can u buy a newer used elbows? all that straight piping does is make ur tractor sound cooler, i dont think u get more HP.
My buddy bleeds green and he talks all kinda shit on the 86 series. All his complaints with them don’t even make sense half the time. He said something about them not shifting. Mine shifts. TA is either out or it’s about to go out. Mine works. It’s a really good tractor other than I have no steering at idle and I have no hydraulic pressure. Replaced the MCV and the other pump looked good so I don’t really know what to do. Filters are new also
Im not sure if a restoration would be worth it, the cost would be way greater than the value of the tractor. IHs are basically just cheap power, they arent very comfy, they arent as user friendly, and they just have some terrible design flaws that dont make them a valuable tractor. John Deere has always made a good quality tractor and thats the reason why the resale value on them is so much higher and you see them in use way more than any other brand. Only place you see IHs around here is in a junkyard or parked in the weeds.
we have a international 1586 and a 986 and i would not have another brand. they are the best tractor we've ever used. love the basically bullet proof engine. the 1586 will pull a 21 foot disk in high 1 with dirt coming over the disks axles and not even grunt. we leased a 4840 one year and the transmission went out on the 4 day of disking. though i do like the older Massey's with the Perkins diesel for smaller jobs.
To be honest I've never had a bad John deere so I can't relate the only brand that suck is new Holland the ONE I had spent more time in the shop then in the field
