This is the video I've been looking for! Thanks for sharing. At my last job we would demonstrate the difference between regular and split point drills. They drill faster and last many times longer. Now I can sharpen them at home.
Fantastic I see what you're doing. Last time I tried to profile a bit with ONLY the Dremel it didn't work out so well but I never would've imagined something like a split point. I'm definitely doing this grind next time around.
Love it. I've preferred split point or four facet drills since I first came across them, but I have never attempted to freehand grind that shape. I have a lot of old drill bits that need attention, you can probably guess what I'm going to experiment with next time I need to sharpen some bits... Cheers, Craig
I mark the bit angle on the toolrest , with cutting edges horizontal slide bit along the line till it contacts the wheel then roll it up turning clockwise . I'm just dubious about using the sides of the wheel to grind on . Cutting the back relief does make a huge difference. Only wish I'd learned to resharpen years ago , all those 1/4" bits I wouldn't have just thrown away.
Thanks very helpful information. Going to give this a try tomorrow. The drill doctor I picked up at a local flea market has been driving me insane with badly split tips.
Brave, doing it by hand... Would be tricky on small drills. Tormek do a jig for split point- at a fearsome price! I ended up making my own jig for my (much) cheaper wetstone grinder. Whole thing came out cheaper than just the Tormek jig...
Seems there are many Dremel cut of wheels like #540, 426,456,506CU,EZ426,EZ456 and EZ476. and other accessories. Which do you prefer for the split point job.
Great Solution for split tips! I have been using the grinder stone, but this should be way more accurate. Which cutoff wheel do you recommend? Thanks for providing this helpful video.
I think I bought the wheels off of Amazon. They're the kind that are fiberglass reinforced in a little bit larger diameter. There's one type that are about 3/4 of an inch and can be snapped in half. And then there's another kind that are about a full inch and are fiberglass reinforced, so can't be easily broken. I like the latter.
@@TheBuildist Thanks for the speedy reply. I tried a diamond wheel, but it seems they are too thin to work well. Will these fit the bill? www.amazon.com/Dremel-426-Fiberglass-Reinforced-Cut-Off/dp/B00004UDH9/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=fiberglass+grinding+wheel+for+dremel+tool&qid=1627494008&sr=8-6 I like the idea that you have more control over the area to be ground. Also it should provide more visibilty.
I see you are use the side of the grinding wheel to sharpen your bits. Isn't there a risk of the wheel breaking up because you're thinning out the width of the wheel and especially if you're sharpening bits on a regular basis? Most technicians warn against doing that. Furthermore, at 6:04, you can clearly see that you've overheated and blued the cutting edge of the bit because you omitted to dunk it periodically in water, thus ruining the temper. That bit's cutting edge life has now been drastically reduced.
You're correct on the first and not quite on the second: It is true that if you did a lot of sharpening on the side of a wheel that the wheel could become thinner and thinner and eventually explode. I'm keeping an eye on it. I've been using this current wheel this way for about 10 years now, with no obvious wheel thinning. But I'll probably have to replace it in the next 10 or 15 years if I keep doing this. It is a known cost of my chosen method. But it does give me very nice results, so I'm willing to replace my grinding wheels sooner than I otherwise would. On the second point, you're not quite correct. The drillbit is not tempered carbon steel, which is very sensitive to overheating and losing its temper as you referred to. That bit is high speed steel, which doesn't suffer "temper" related issues until and unless you get it up to full-on red hot. So you can heat them up to blue without it causing a problem. I do still try to dunk them, to stay well away from orange/red hot. But you don't have to be super careful when sharpening HSS. That's the main reason HSS is so profoundly superior to carbon steel bits. Good points, thanks for your comment.
True, not the greatest practise to apply axial loads to a grinding wheel. However that's just a small 6" grinder and the amount of material he's taking off and how gently he's doing it, I can't see it being a problem in any practical sense. Grinding wheels are consumables anyway.
Good catch. I lost my primary footage for that test, and had to run with another one that wasn't as smooth. But the result is still legit. Scout's honor!
