Shop Talk 18: Starrett Dial Caliper Fix 

Just batteries to run out LOL. I want digital ones so I can push a button and be metric or imperial, plus you can re-zero them anywhere for other comparative measures. I currently have two dial ones, one metric and one imperial. The metric ones are graphite and my stainless 8" ones don't read so well anymore (good enough for wood working still). I think something got bent. I tried to take it apart, but there definitely weren't 4 screws on top to release it and I couldn't see what else to do. I wasn't in to prying on stuff. I'll leave the hammer and chisel method to others.

bcbloc02 Digitals are my go to as well, but around my shop I enjoy using both.

I find for some things I like digital (like doing subtraction to get a measurement). For others I like a dial (Like trying to set them to a specific dimension).

@Brian:The best thing about digital is I can see the larger numbers without having my glasses on, but I hate having to push that dang power button just to take a reading right quick. Lazy I know but it's one more step just to use a tool.

Automatic shutoff sucks sometimes.

All of the American Made 120's have the A next to the part number, so I think it indicates that these are the American made calipers. The model 1202 are not american made and imported.

Good to know, maybe mine were from before there were a non-American version. My 120 calipers just have "120" not 120a or 1202, and they do say "American Made" on the dial like the 120A does. They also have much deeper stamping on the letters and numbers than the 120a. They also have a metal case with the red vinyl cover, not a plastic case. I can send you a pic of these next to a 120a if you like.

Just a large piece of wire like a paper clip with a smooth end will work. www.mitutoyo.co.jp/eng/support/service/manual/002.html Mike (o\!/o)

Even better than a toothbrush (and they are cheap) is one of those gunsmith brushes used to clean revolvers. You set it nice on the track, and gently move it counter clockwise. The dirt just pops out. Did wonders for my set which fell in the lathe sump, the thing was nasty as nasty comes.

Thanks for the tips. I've normally used my solvent degreaser cleaner, pretty much just alcohol.

Yes sir, take care of them and they will last. I hate to say it but all the guys I work with, they do not handle the tools like I do. You usually find both the mics and calipers intertwined with tools and junk on top of the lathe or work bench while they are working. Drives me nuts.

Yeah man! When I had my machine shop classes in college (BSMET) I picked the oldest LeBlond lathe down at the end of the row. All the other guys fought over the newer machines and never got the same one twice! Cleaned up "Blondie" and ran some oil around (I learned how to run a lathe in HS shop but didn't tell THEM that). Shop instructor came over (Retired Navy Machinist) and said:" Why did you pick THIS machine?" I said: "Because nobody else will bother her until I get back tomorrow. The barrels for the turnings are right behind me and the tool room is ten feet away.":)

+Tarmac Cowboy Awesome! I've seen the offset jaw before and know I could have used them many times.

Make sure to clean them good while you have it apart. Like others have said, use a small brush like a tooth brush to clean the rack.

The Starrett without the easily removable plate have the design you are talking about. The ones shown in this video have a double gear with a spring between the halves (think like a sandwich, with the spring as the meat.) Both halves of the gear are the same size, and the spring is trying to rotate the halves in opposite directions against the next gear, which takes up the backlash.

Cad-Cam_Man nice, I've never had any of those, or seen them used

Equiluxe1 only thing there would be you wouldn't get rid of any crud in the rack. Assuming it's the cause it would just bump the needle out again in the future. Fix the cause not the effect :)

I would flush it with pure alcohol to clean it these days back then I would have put it in the ultrasonic bath of xylene.

Thanks Kelly! I remember you showing up in the early upload days. :)

I never have shown the "shim trick". You have to shim the rack and slide it up to close. I hear its bad on the gear to do it that way though.

Thanks for the quick reply. I'm following the instructions below for the "shim trick" (found here: forums.finewoodworking.com/fine-woodworking-knots/power-tools-and-machinery/recalibrating-dial-caliper-mitutoyo), but it's not working for me. Maybe it doesn't work on the 1202. "you may need to get the gear driving the pointer to intentionally skip some teeth on the rack to get the pointer vertical when the jaws are closed. To do this you will need to make a small tool out of some shim stock or a soda can. Cut a 1/16" wide by 2" long strip out of the thin metal and put a slight downward bend in the strip about 1/4 inch back from one end. "Now move the head of the caliper down to the middle of the bar and slip the strip in behind the head just over the rack with the bent tip down so it is against the gear teeth of the rack. Now, if you move the head toward the strip, the gear on the head will ride up on the strip and will disengage from the rack. You won't be able to see this, but you'll feel the drag on the head as the gear runs into the strip. Move the head a fraction of an inch further to the left so that the gear will skip a few teeth and then pull out the strip, allowing the gear to settle back into the teeth on the rack. "Now close the jaws on the caliper and see if the pointer is at the twelve o'clock position. If it isn't, just repeat the procedure until the pointer finally settles into the right engagement. Getting the adjustment right is a "hunt and peck" process that may take several attempts, but with a little practice you will be able to reset the caliper in just a couple of minutes."

After farting around with shims and paper clips for a few hours yesterday, I definitely wouldn't recommend this method. Maybe it works on other calipers, but it didn't work on my 1202 and I eventually tore the shim and had little bits of aluminium stuck in the rack. I ended up taking the caliper apart to clean it. When putting it back together I left the screws out of the rack, then disengaged and reengaged the rack and the gear several times. I think it was mostly dumb luck, but I eventually got the needle back to 12 o'clock and the calipers seem to be working fine now. Just thought I'd share my experience here in case someone else is having the same problems. Cheers.

Gotta fix that. Take it apart and clean it, and clock it back right. Pretty simple,just be gentle.

Was wondering the same.. they look exactly like Wiha!!

Pretty sure they are, so another member of the Starrett global series ;P Greetings from Germany.

haha.. thought exactly the same :) they look quite like my favorite Wiha screwdrivers here... but hey they are excellent, and a good choice for jobs like this :)

Those are very much Wiha. I own both (braand) sets, by chance. Besides the name, there's practically no difference. So, one could go for either if the price is right.

Looks like you guys know more about those then I do. I ordered them through work a few years ago when I got a new indicator and magnetic back. I just liked them and the price wasn't bad.

ChadHHC86 Yep several have mentioned the Mitutoyo style and how the user can correct the dial.

joshua meyers Wahhhhhh?????

You can order them from Starretts

Ujeb08 Contact Starrett? Send them back for repair ? Not sure of other good options.

No lube, clean and dry. Oil will attract dust and contaminants.

What's the paper clip trick

tehfade53 That's easier?

There is a reason it is clocked wrong. Was it shock bounce or was it a chip in the rack that only affects it at a certain speed. I would rather clean it and be sure it was correct. Ask a clock-maker what kind of screwdriver he uses to pry the hands off. Now just wait until you bend the shaft or break a lens with your method. Mike (o\!/o)

It's a big problem if you lose one of those screws. I almost did twice.

That is probably dirt or grit in the rack causing the gear to jump teeth I would guess it happens more when moved fast. If you open it up all the way you can inspect the rack for dirt before you take it apart. For the ones that don't have the screws, you remove the end stop and slide them apart. Mike (o\!/o)

You should be able to get replacement racks for them from Starrett, or have someone like MR tool Repair fix them for you.

Not at all, they ALL can be re-clocked. Some require a different method though. In the worst case for example the gear rail can be unscrewed and slide out along with the indicator part if need be - and I doubt this much work is actually needed. Looking at my chineseium $20 HF ones I see that to be clocked properly I need to show .050 when the edge of the indicator part is half way over the first hole of the gear rail. It can be clocked upon assembly if you know that in advance. Thanks Adam, I knew what I had to do a few seconds after the reveal under your dial face. What I can't fathom is how to do it with a shim or pin as I read in other comments, will be watching for further info. And top notch content as always.

I understand the calibration part and if it is assembled from parts there has to be a way to disassemble. I do find it useful to learn how to calibrate it on your own. That is one of the things I like best about Adam's videos, he explains things in a clear easy to understand way.

The removable top plate is just one of the design features of the Starrett 120. It's makes this particular model easy to reset and clean up. There are other methods to correct clocking on other calipers. Sometimes you can buy a good quality caliper for a good price because of the needle being off. They all pretty easy to correct.

You might try Mcmaster-Carr, or Starrett will sell you the correct hardware.

The other ones: Use compressed air to blow the glass of the dial. Go to a watchmaker. They can take the pointer from the shaft with a special tool in a second and put it back to the designated position. Pop the glass back on- job done...

@@heikopanzlaff3789 after this post I figured it out. I flattened a small wire and you can shim it in between the small rack and pinion, then move the calipers closed. Messed around with it for a few minutes and got it clocked perfectly. Thanks for the suggestion though, I didn’t even consider that.

I like to use my fast evaporating solvents to clean them out.

Bruce T Just in case you aren't trolling, the dial can be rotated to allow for easy relative measurements.

That was the picture I took of them when I bought them, and showing what was wrong. The fix was in the video, removing the top plate, adjusting the needle with the small gear on the back, and lining it all back up.

The face moves independent of the needle. Once you move the needle to 12 o'clock, you can move the face after you put it back together.

Nothing wrong with Starrett. You had a bad day and a bad set of calipers that someone had abused.

A real machinist can not only machine parts but fix, repair or modify all of the machines and tools. Keep working at it. Some day you might get there.

In that case someone at Starrett had a bad day and saw you coming.

Ellie Price Another person who bases things off of ONE SINGLE experience. Lol. That makes sense. Derp.

Any company that can let that get through QC isn't worth my time. You guys clearly arnt professionals if youre willing to waste time repairing brand new tools. Mitutoyo is 100x better product and has yet to let me down after the tens of thousands ive spend on tools over the years.

Ken . It most certainly is when you have hands the size if dinner plates and fingers like a pound of sausages , I know because I have that problem.