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An alternative to mounting your panel 1" away from the wall is to use a deeper frame. For example, try a 2" deep panel that has 1" of absorptive material in it and a 1" gap behind the absorptive material. The frame will still sit flush agains the wall, and it is lighter, more cost effective and easier to hang. Better yet, put 2" of material in a 3" or 4" deep frame.
In a nutshell, the air particle velocity at a reflective boundary (the wall) is zero, so any absorbent material close to said boundary will be at its least effective.
Hello author! Unfortunatly I don't know your name. I have a question about this 5:49 have you every tried and if not, what do you think about adding MLV on the front side of acoustic panel to block the soud coming from the wall? I don't need acoustic treatment in my room, there is no echo because of furniture and a lot of curtains in it. My goal is to block sound to the level were my dynamic mic will not hear the noice from neibours. The microphone is standing right next to the wall, and behind this wall is the neighbor's toilet and I hear how they flush the water there, the microphone also hears it, not as much as my ears, but none the less flushing getting to the record. Unfortunatly I can't move mic away from the wall. So my idea is to make wood frame based acustic panel with mineral wool and MLV on the others side. Mineral wool will be faced towards the wall, absorbing and lowering sound waves, MLV will block whats left. Dynamic mic picking up sound only infront of him, so i think that this combo of sound absorbtion and sound blocking might help. What do you think of it? I understand that i will not get rid of noise in general, but is it possible just to block it just for the mic in this way? For example the way you showed in some of your video how people using MLV on the fence at the back yard to make noise lower Will be greatful for your answer and thank you for your content, i learned a lot from you videos!
Hi, I am taking your offer. How would you soundproof a workshop to avoid noise going out? Either wood structure where you can fill the wall or a concrete structure?
I don't know how I found your channel but I absolutely love the information that you provide. I have annoying asshole neighbors (yes, plural) and I really do just want to move out at this point. Any tips for soundproofing/absorbing in a thin concrete house located in Asia where drywalls are impossible since they are insect breeding grounds? Just tile floors and concrete walls, some windows.
Concrete walls are difficult to soundproof, especially the concrete planks which I assume you’re having issues with. Here I’d suggest adding drywall overtop of it but since you’re unable to buy drywall in your area, I’m at a lost. I’ll look into it and update you if/when I find something out.
We had a clubhouse ceiling that was built with a sprayed ceiling that kept the chatter in the room down so when we had a large gathering there was not a lot of background sound. Ten years later, we painted it and now the chatter is terrible. I was wondering if we just got some light wood and put 12x12 squares of the sound proof foam on 6' planks and hung them from the ceiling with a 2 inch gap would this help the sound? We are an HOA senior community with very limited funds.
Hi, i plan to rent a 100 sqm room as a dance studio ( 3.5 meter height ) , i will be using the cement ceiling for ceiling mounts for my hoops/poles . Anyway, the tenant beside me will be a 24 hr CALL CENTER , we still don’t have a partition between us ( on the partition i plan to install the dance mirror ) . For the partition, the owner will install a DOUBLE wall hardiflex . Will that be enough to deaden or block the sound for both rooms? A supplier suggested to : Insert 3 or 4 INCHES ROCKWOOL fiber in between the hardiflex, then on my side - place the MASS LOADED VINYL ROLL on top of the hardiflex acoustic, ( there might be a gap in between this and the actual wall where i will place the mirror , they suggested that instead of using plywood for the mirror to be place, i should use SILICATE BOARD as a replacement, then finally the mirror. Not sure if there is a more cost effective way for this . Thanks your reply will be much appreciated
Hi. Thanks for details. We are facing traffic noise problem in most of our rooms. For these kind of situations, will green glue between quiet rock or an air gap between 2 quiet rock walls works better?
It really all depends on the painting. If it’s not too hardened on the entire outside surface then you should be fine. It the canvas is really hard then it won’t work nearly as well as an acoustic panel.
I have never bought acoustic foam. But I have acces to some kind of minicell foam and can cut the triangel shapes pretty easy. But the foam I have is with closed cells ( cant absorb water ), and acoustic foam looks like the foam is with more open cells. Can I ask your thoughts about that ?
Closed cell foam is a specific type of foam that boasts a higher R-Value than its open cell counterpart. Closed cell foam has tightly-woven cells that produce a “closed” effect. Because of this, closed cell foam results in a denser material that works better at absorbing low-frequency noise. 👍🏻
Hi! Thank you for your time talking about acoustics! I have a question. At times in your video you say that if people are in the kind of room that they need gap behind their panels, then it will make a difference to have that gap. You also say that the gap you see on the ceilings works great and the give the greatest benefit. Do you know why the gap will help in case those rooms need it, or why it makes the difference in the case of the ceilings? I am not looking for an answer based on experiences, but the actual physics behind how the air gap works.
The reason is that low-frequency absorption is improved when the panel is away from the wall. When mounted on a wall with a spacer, sound gets behind [an acoustic panel] so its rear surface can also absorb.
Off topic but if I'm soundproofing a wall, should i remove the blow in foam and and safe and sound on top? or remove it and just use the safe and sound? why or why not?
@@soundproofguide essentially if I'm soundproofing a wall should i remove the old foam thats in the wall, or stuff safe and sound overtop the existing?
@@22rsx I would take the old stuff out. Safe and sound will mold to the space much better. Also, you do not want to smush this type of insulation. You want it to be able to expand and fill the gap organically. Best of luck and reply here to let me know how your project turned out!
For small rooms, 4" thick wall panels should always be the minimum. Using 2" thick panels and a 2" air gap is more mounting work than it's worth. A 4" flush panel works better than a 2" panel with a 2" air gap. If you only have a 1" or 2" thick wall panel to work with... fine air gap it, otherwise get a 4" wall panel and forget about air gapping. I don't recommend building your own panels, as they don't look professional. I can easily tell when someone has built their own panels. Never use foam. Foam only works for high frequency and they are ugly and nasty looking on the wall.
