Visit our website: www.growcarnivo... No terrariums. No myths. No nonsense. Get the straight facts from guys who grow and propagate thousands of carnivorous plants every year, since 1995.
Also sent in a question. I had a horrible problem with rhizome rot on my pitchers, and after these guys diagnosed my situation was due to not enough sunlight. My plant area had slowly been overshadowed by tree growth that had crept in over the years. One of the trees has been cut way back due to the branches shorting out the power lines. Moved my guys to an area with more sun. Thanks dudes.
I have a question for you, I live in Norway and I have a few carnivorous plants, winter is nearly here and it can get down to -30c, now I have had flytraps survive this cold weather before by covering them with spruce bows and letting the snow lay on them, near the soil under the snow its much warmer nearer freezing point. I also have a septic tank that's dug into the ground, this septic tank has a box also in the ground that's a meter square that sits around the opening of the septic tank, this box is cover with a wooden plank lid, my question for you would be can I let my carnivorous plants live in this space until the spring? Inside this box its much warmer than outside air temperature and my only real concern is the amount of time the plants would be spending in this box over the winter, here our winters last into April next year.
fantastic! Zone 6b with hard freezes. i would run the plant drier, bring to the garage when we hit peak winter cold temps, but keep in a cold frame otherwise during the winter. Seems my method is "okay" but i dont have to go drier with them. Now to figure out if spring, late fall, or early winter is best for division and repot!
I also believe that a larger pot helps to insulate and mitigate over watering. I will re-pot my plants in the spring. They're doing "OK" but could be doing better, especially my Alien cultivar.
Thank you Jacob! I noticed he used smaller pots. Is that also a reason for frost risk? I noticed you use much larger pots than his pic or mine. Does that play a roll? (I haven't received a reply to my e-mail I sent in 6+ months ago)
This video was very helpful! Ive had really small traps on my "Big Mouth" venus fly trap all summer long and I think its because of the cold winter we had. I will be more careful this winter to bring in my flytraps when it gets too cold for long periods of time
The cool/cold, dry winds in the fall and winter will suck a amazing amount of water out of the soil in a very short time. Don't rely on winter rain to keep your plants damp; always check them a couple times a week to make sure they aren't drying out.
thank you this video was very informative especially for first time grower like myself, I grew few sundews from seeds this year and at end of august they really poped out but temperature changed drasticly from 30 C degree to 15 C in few days so Im curious how they'll develop further
What common cultivars / species do you recommend for hardy venus flytraps? I'd love to have some in my bog garden, I live in the UK where it can get down to -10°C / 5 °F.
i will this year top water the flytraps until it runns out of the bottom and i check the weight of the planter regularly so i know when to give them water again. I watered them today and documented the weight of every planter after that
I asked the same question via email bc I'm in Northern Michigan. Was told to bring it in and put it near a cold window. 😊 Here's what I got back: Hi Shari, Let's do this the easy way. Since we are only talking about one plant here, just move the plant to a window in the house you know will be cool. Put it right next to the glass. It's even ok if the window gets a little frosty during very cold weather. This way the plant experiences natural daylight period, and cool temps allowing it to go dormant, without the hassle and risk of overwintering outside. (There is a way to do it, but not worth the trouble for one plant.). During the winter, keep just a tiny amount of water in the tray. You want the soil just damp, that's all. Don't let it dry out, but keeping it a bit drier than during the growing season is best. Be sure to clip off any leaves/traps that are browning for good hygiene. Skip the refrigerator dormancy. This has to be done carefully, or it's too easy to forget and lose plants to mold in the fridge. I would say 80% of folks who try the refrigerator method lose their plants. It's something of a last resort for folks in tropical climates. Once nights are staying above freezing, your plant can go back outside. This will probably be late April.
I had to give up my carnivorous plant collection due to not enough sunlight anymore. The trees around me group up to where there was just too much shade. I now need a new hobby.
Try to find a place where the winter temperature range is 35-55°F / 2-13°C, preferably one where the plant can still get a few hours of sun every day. If nothing else, you can stash it in an unheated garage on the really cold days and then put it outside on days above freezing.
