As someone with a $200 low deflection cue and a local shark with a $700 one, the difference is super noticeable. We play with the same Kamui soft tip and his cue FEELS like it’s more expensive than mine. Mechanically, an expensive cue wont make you a better player but if you have the skills to match the quality of your cue, it will undoubtedly take your game to the next level.
when you say it feels more expensive - is it just feel in hand? or do you mean it plays better? like is the diff noticeable in terms of playing? or is it just noticeable in terms of how quality it feels?
. I have a low deflection Jacoby shaft. . I didn't notice much difference at first. But after using my carbon fiber. When I went back the other way to a wooden shaft.???? I was like ?? wow !! how did I shoot with this for 30 years. I knew I was going to upgrade... I wish I would have just gone low deflection right out of the gate. Thank you for your efforts.....YOU'RE ALWAYS VERY INFORMATIVE....
You're really a excellent player and teacher as well. Hope you can spend your time for a topic to explain about the difference between soft, medium and hard tip. Thank you so much and have a nice day!!
Since I was 14 years old I shot pool, I used to go into pool halls that have been decades gone. I bought my first Q stick, it was a Mc Dermott and 30 years ago it cost $295. I used to go to bars with my Uncle and we played for Steaks every Saturday night, and in small tournaments at the Eagles. He was first at the Senior Home, and I was proud of him at 84 years old. Now it’s been ten years since I picked up a stick. I found a nice Pool Hall and they have a Happy Hour and costs $12.00 to play on beautiful 9 foot tables. I’m thinking of buying a Cue. It’s a Sneaky Pete, Predator 4 Point with a black and blue linen wrap. I’m 70 years old now, retired for 4 months… and I am thinking of playing 3 times a week, 1.5 hours a time. Who knows, I may end up in a bar, playing for beers. I used to watch those old men playing Golf on those huge 12 foot tables, as a young boy I was in awe… now I’m the old guy, and believe me… I played for an hour last week and I missed more shots than I made… but some of the ones I made were hell good ones !
Thanks B, I just went from a standard to a LD Lucasi. I was getting frustrated at first, but now its the best decision I could have made now that I'm getting my reps in. Love the videos especially the drills!
I play Snooker and American pool games. For years if I played one game all day or all weekend in a tournament it took a day or two playing the other game to adapt to the difference in squirt between the two cues. I finally found a pool cue that basically matched the squirt of my custom low deflection snooker cue. Now I can play back and forth with ease as my brain doesn't have two different sets of info to work out. EG what I mean is snooker cue, snooker balls, snooker table, half ball cut, tip of side pot the ball. Then immediately put pool balls in the same spots, grab my pool cue, same aim with tip of side and pot that pool ball into the small snooker pocket.
I learn more from you in the shortest time you are amazing. But most you seem to care about people. Not just a way to make more money. Keep people first and you will do great. Everyone knows when they are important. God Bless
FX have right!! I am using all my equipment of cues, your definition of this practice its true, so thanks for your support, I never realize if you did talk about that, I just tried to mantain the same condition on the game taken all my shafts, Two Revo 12.4 One 314 third gen One Lucasi híbrid laminated One Cuetec Avid Fiber Glass shafts Mistake in combinatiion, no have Big progress, only wast time.
I'm in my 1st APA 8-ball league n am using a Viking standard cue. Always loved pool, just never played seriously til now...just ordered a 314 3rd gen shaft. Might as well bite the bullet now n get used to LD as more n more of my shots require english for shape on the next. I plan on switching n never lookin back! Thx Bryan!
Thank you for the comment about not spending high dollars until you are committed to the game. I captain an APA team where we are always bringing new players up, and I don't recommend a new player spend more than $100-$150 on a first cue. Also, the comments about transitioning, played for 20+ years with a high quality traditional cue, have been considering LD, but will only do it off season, and with practice and commitment.
I know people who have Playe d with Wally World cues only for years, the metal or fiberglass ones and loved them and were 6-7 shooters, the main thing about cues is that they feel good and do what u want them to in ur hands
Have about 5-6 years of learning and improving my game. I learned it all on a standard cue 13mm or 12.75mm (Dale Parry custom I won in best of the best through APA, I did this with a vahalla viking 250-300$?), not sure of exact size. Decided it was time to invest in a LD, but didn't like carbon fiber so I went with Lucasi custom and had them shave it down from 11.7mm to 11.5mm. Now what I've learned in the 3-4 months I've had it, the biggest change is learning to trust your aim with side english now that the deflection is lower, but also I now have to actually judge distance of cue to object ball to determine the right amount of side to use. It varies inside of a 2 foot range, we'll say I shoot the same speed for each shot (medium) where I use to use 1 tip bottom, 1 tip left. I'm now judging it by distance. I figured out (roughly) 6" is 1/4 side tip, 1' is about 1/2 tip, 1.5' is 3/4 side tip and 2' is full side tip (I've learned to use the cue shaft as a measurement lol. The action you get from the cue is more since the wood does not react as much as a standard maple shaft. My next purchase will be a a 12mm or 12.5mm shaft to try and find the sweet spot where the side english has less variables. In case you're curious I purchased a Lucasi custom LCZ 21 and really love this cue! The second biggest change was going from a wrap to no wrap. There is very little difference in carbon fiber and a wood LD shaft from what I've been able to tell and my friend who is a max level APA player, carbon fiber user. I hope you find this helpful in what you decide or concur in your experience if you already made your purchase. One last note to mention, I went from playing with a medium hard buffalo hide tip with my old maple shaft to a Tiger Everest tip. Although I did re-tip my old cue with the same tip and found the performance about the same as the medium hard tip.
Came back to update, I did update to an LD shaft, not the expensive models, went with a PureX, part of my decision was most of my existing butts are old style 5/16" x 18 thread. Very afforable, $200 MSRP, but available on sale for much less. Kamui Black soft tip, and yes the transition did take a minute, but overall pretty short. Overall, VERY significant quality of life improvement, and it has helped my game, and my confidence especially ability to attempt hotter spin and speed when needing to move the ball more radically. Great option IMO for a first LD shaft, and it's available for most joints.
Your comments on cues low deflection cue and prices is all the things that I've been looking forward to hearing because I am in the market for a break cue. I'm still not sure though exactly what I'm going to get but I am much better off knowledge wise now that I saw your video then I was before. Thank you for your videos they're all educational and I really do enjoy them.
Sometimes on certain shots I like using a house cue (with a good tip of course) that squirts the cue ball a lot more than my shaft does. Like if I'm partially snookered and I use the squirt to get around the ball.
I played al lot in the 90's first with something cheap, and then bought a Meucci. Super cue, but it takes some time to get used to. And I did. I bought my partner as a present a predator break cue, but end up using it myself, and later added a predator play too it. What a difference. Both are great, but the Meucci is beter if you play a lot, the predator is way better if you do not play that often. For me, that is.
Funny that you mentioned about the wraps. Growing playing during college, I liked the wraps but always caught myself at the butt end of the cue because like you im a taller guy. When I got my predator, I asked for a wrapless since everytime I got in the zone on the table I would notice the feel would be at the wrapless area. I love it! I got a sport 2 Ice with a Z shaft (maybe I should of started with the 314 but since the shop wasn't going to charge me extra I opted for the Z at the time) I never looked back and fell in love with the feel and sound of every hit. I switched the tip to a kamui black soft since at the time I couldn't find super softs and I have to say its one of the best upgrades ive ever had. I would like to own a 314 & a revo one day but for now its all I got and im okay with it.
The one thing I do like about the wrap is if I pick up the wrong cue I realize it right away. For example, if my break he was in my hand, the wrap feels different than my playing cue. I was thinking about selling some of my 314s I think I have six of them at this point I am I’ll try to keep you guys updated if I decide to list them.
The car analogy was spot on. Not only in the way you presented it, but also in the sense that a Miata with a professional driver will still out run the Porsche with an armature behind the wheel.
Best advice you gave, "If you switch to Carbon Fibre Shaft, DO NOT go back to Wooden shaft NOR alternate back and forth between wood and carbon". Make the switch and stay with the Carbon Fibre. PERIOD! Thank you.
I’ve been playing pool since 9 so I have played for 6 years my dad and grandfather got me into the game and I’m buying my 3rd stick from meucci to complete my set soon
I just went from a cuetect sst tru glide shaft (under $200) to a mezz with wx700 and i love it. the deflection the cheaper cue was almost unbearable specially on longer shots and it was hard to be consistent with it. im glad i spent the money!
Bryan. I am a new subscriber to your channel and can’t get enough of your videos. I have a Jacoby KW shaft which is an ultra low deflection shaft. I am a relatively new player but have been playing very good according to my level since I started using this shaft. I have considered transitioning over to a composite shaft like the McDermott Defy shaft but I’m not so sure that it will improve my game or hurt my game. What are your thoughts?
Welcome aboard! Keep in mind that something like a carbon fiber, cue shaft will hold its value for a long time and stay consistent forever. Where wood changes over time - I do recommend carbon fiber. It cost more but it’s worth it. Sorry about how long it took me to answer your question.
Couldn't agree more. I started the LD experiment with OB, then Tiger, Predator 314-2 and now a Revo. They are all different amounts of deflection. They all feel and hit slightly different, and none of them are perfect. Carbon fiber has one great advantage, I have not had to fix a ding in a long time. From a cost stand point I bought shaft blanks and had Al Romero match them to my sneaky petes.
Good video low deflection cues have a place in the market for sure but I can’t understand why people are so scared of a little bit of deflation iv used amazing playing cues ie southwest Barnhart olney and they play amazing and some throw the ball like crazy but you learn to use it and after a while you don’t even think about the amount of deflection you just play the shot and your brain automatically makes the adjustments needed to pot the ball I have used predators and am currently using a mezz low deflection cue but I think when funds allow I’ll go back to a southwest Barnhart maybe even a black boar sneaky knowing that the cue will throw but the hit will feel amazing just my two cents. Thanks for making great videos
I have a Tiger X-LD 12.5, the X is that it's 30" instead of 29". I like that extra little bit. I sent it back for a new tip, the Sniper is quite good also, and while it was out I borrowed a friend's, same model. His seems to hit just a little bit different.... I often use lots of spin, I'm a fan of Efren, and I find it's quite a good cue. I may go for carbon at some point, Tiger is coming out with one also.
Had my OB1 shaft for 15 years and absolutely loved it. Made the jump to a Franco Custom Kielwood and that was one of the best hitting shafts I've ever used. Randomly picked up a carbon fiber shaft about a week ago and after putting around 20 hours on it I may switch back to my kielwood. I am running the same tip on all 3 but the feel of the carbon fiber shaft is just too muted on the hit for my taste.
With a really low deflection cue, you need to use a very long bridge. If your bridge is too short the deflection will actually end up in the same direction as the offset tip position. Add swerve into the equation and you end up even further off line. I recommend finding a cue who’s deflection matches your normal bridge length. This can be especially important for folks who mainly play on 7-foot tables where a longer bridge length is often impractical.
Not true . 10" bridge would still make it low deflection . The mass at the end of the shaft still determines the deflection characteristics . The pivot point of LD shafts are usually a lot farther from the tip. Swerve only matters on soft shots .
This actually makes a lot of sense. Since the point of a low deflection shaft is to flex immediately from the cue ball after contact. So by having a shorter bridge, especially on a closed bridge; youre actually choking and holding back the flex
depends how you are aiming the sidespin, you can use any lenght of bridge you want if you know where the pivot point is. With regular shaft the aiming pivot point is a lot closer to the tip, pretty close to standard bridge lenghts. With low deflection shaft the pivot point is further from the tip so you need to pivot the cue from different point to get the ball go straight.
Finally ill be ordering a sneaky pete with the 12.4 revo soon. Wife gave me the ok..Upgrading from a Pure X Players. Ive been playing pretty good already with both my neighbor and i both having tables now and lots of games to come. Excited for the chance to try a predator revo setup! Anyways, appreciate the vids and take care. Edit: ordered the sp2 nova (Black) with the revo in 11.8.
Thanks good job. I stopped at the Predator both in Vegus and screwed a revo on to the butt of my playing cue, a long time ago, shot 20 balls. Great I love it I'll take one right now no I had to wait 6 months. I tried a defy, McDermott, because of the dead blow effect and it felt good so I bought one and gave a good long try, it now resides in my bag as a back up to the revo.
Nice advice and presentation! I have to laugh about the stories of Efran Reyes playing some of his championship games on $19 cues. The thing I like the most about carbon fibre shafts is that they don't warp.
Great discussion as always THANKS. Have you made a video that discusses cue tips. For example. Vary soft, to hard, layered not layered plus other information. I’m a new player and student of the game just wanting to learn.
When I first got my carbon fiber I took about one week and did nothing but severe spin just so I could get used to it faster. But you do have to allow yourself some time to adjust anytime you change new products or new things that you learned also take time for you to adjust.
They do make a difference from what I was told by upper level players. They also told me that on straight in shots it doesn’t;only on cut shots how true this is idk
Not only cue, even type of chalk also can bring deflection. Make sure you use less dust chalk apply because if cloth full of chalk stain even the most expensive cue can't help you.
I bought a Peschaur carbon fiber shaft earlier this year, in the recommendation of my equipment supplier. Like it a lot. I figure, though, that cues are a lot like expensive golf clubs… not magic. I can still have days where I play like sh*t because I’m screwing up other fundamentals.
Which shaft size did you get? I'm getting one eventually but Im 99% sure I won't be able to try one out before buying so I've been going back and forth on the 11.8 or 12.4.
I do use a Kamui medium tip on my Synergy carbon LD shaft, however, it is an 11.8 mm tip and I found that soft tips would mushroom out much more so than they would on a wooden shaft.
Most deflection can be lowered to almost nothing with back hand English meaning aim center ball then pivot to where you will hit the que ball.....when im on i can shoot straight as an arrow with this method using a stiff break que with a phenolic tip....so tip of the day is back hand english
If you use a LD cue while learning the game, the cue will help you pocket balls even when your stroke fails to hit the cue ball where intended. You therefore don't miss shots you should. The realization that you need to improve your fundamentals doesn't become apparent and you don't improve any more. Learn to play with a cheap cue, spend money instead on coaching, then learn how to use spin. Finally, get a LD cue once you are worthy of one.
another good video and summed a lot up nicely. true about when you switch go cold turkey, but i wound up going back to my old 314 (which was an exerience to switch to 20 years ago) only because i didnt have confidence in my new shaft. bad on me.
I've been having trouble with the transition from a Z3 to a Revo 12.9. A friend told me to go back to hitting center ball and all will be good and holy in the universe again. He was right! I play very well with the Z3 and can't understand why I continue to struggle with the Revo. My draw shots especially!
I think everyone struggles with draw at first with carbon fiber shafts. I did which is crazy because once I adjusted my draw so it not an issue. In fact the only thing that's harder is jumping with my playing cue
I stopped shooting for 16 always shot with a Meucci. When I came back and was trying to get back in stroke I bought a McDermott H series and it really helped. I still find myself shooting some nights better with the Meucci and others with the McDermott not sure why that is.
I just received my table and we are having a blast with it. I grew up with a table in our home but haven't played regularly in years, but I intend to put in a lot of time on this table. I have a Viking Valhalla 203 that is OK but I want to give it to my son and get a better cue. What are your thoughts on the Predator Aspire cues with the One shaft? Would you recommend this for a home player or step up to something like the sport 2 with the 314 shaft?
I’ve never played with the aspire cue but if it were me I would go to the 314 and something like the sport 2. That way you’ll have more options if you decide to go even higher later.
Love your work. Ty for the effort. I am 6'8 and just started really "trying" to play/improve about a year and a half ago. Joined APA 4 months ago. just last week, I got new orthotic inserts for my shoes, to deal with some feet issue I was having. It has totally changed my posture and my stance/ and stride all for the better. However. My game has been destroyed.. I wasn't a super player, but did have confidence in my game and was seeing improvement over time. Suddenly I "feel" like I'm standing on the table. I feel so much taller, and my stroke is gone. The way I bend at the table my stroke is hitting my ribs when it did not before. long story short. I am restarting from zero. any tips for a super tall player, on making adjustments? I pretty much have decided... start over. learn well, fail fast.. and keep trying.. But I am extremely frustrated, and can't seem to find.. a Consistent stance or stroke... Realize this is a lot to unpack.. but I'm really lost man. Thanks for your time.
Hi! I am 6-8 but i'm very lean (6-8" 205 lbs) So it's not a problem "having my cue touching my ribs cage". I TRY to stroke by touching my ribs. That's my goal. Because it give me a third support. I play snooker. Sometime 9 ball but it's too easy and there is not enough space between tables. Anyway (other problem lol) Try to always keep the same posture with your feet. It ask some effort and patience, but after maybe 2 month at a frequence of 10hours a week, i'm sure you will be more stable and perhaps more secure on your all around stand. Sorry for my soso english writing-I am french canadian i have to put some mental effort for well talking to you ; ) So, It's a lot of thing (i was 30yrs old when i got ortho insert for the first time. It was 23 years ago)to learn and to manage just for walking; it's like return when you were a young baby who try to walk for the second and 3 time. I know it! Because we are tall, and less stable more at risk to fall in some kind of position. It ask more effort when it's time to play pool : Like i said; try to stroke with the help of your ribs. For me it is a god giving cue (genetictly talking) Also: Try to enlarge your feet. Don't worry with the space it take. The player at next table should accept your presence. And if they are not happy, say something humoristic to calm down the ambiance lol! If your feet are like 24" stance go to 36" minimum , it would give you more focus by raptisser. Well. Good luck buddy ; ) Don't give-up! Salut et bonne journée à toi mon ami ; )
hows it goin for you now? i feel like it just takes time to get re-used to things when stuff like that changes, but i bet it didnt take you as long as you thought!
I have a couple of cues that I shoot with all the time one is a lower cost Lucasi cost me around 280 bucks . I shoot great with it . I have a custom made cue that is around the same weight and it also has standard wooden shafts. I also shoot great with it. Both are very light cues . I shoot with probably around 17oz cues . I went and bought a Jacoby got it on sale for like 1450 and even got a second shaft. That cue is amazing looking and feels so much more expensive even just holding it. Both shafts are there low deflection shafts. I took all the weight out I could to make it feel as close to what I was used to shooting with and nothing I have been able to do helps me shoot good with it.. I even sometimes miss strait in shots three feet from the pocket .. I tried and tried and the shaft feels nothing like my standard wood shafts. I can put tons of english on the ball and make balls dead center pocket with the standard shafts.. Try it with the low deflection and miss every shot. I just do not get it. Why am I shooting sooo much worse with a cue that cost what 4X as much ?
Your new LD shaft is putting more english on the cue ball. In return, any shot with unwanted english is magnified. CF multiplies anything you do the the cue ball. Good or bad. that MIGHT be the issue. Not hitting the ball where you think you are hitting it.
Im struggling with relearning the how to play at a high level. I stopped in 2003. Juat started back this year. Cant seem to gwt consistent. Friend loans me a meucci and come to find it shoots great except its not straight :/ My son bought me a $70 cuesoul stick... Its ok at best. I seem to still understand the game but im missing easy shots. Super frustrating from running racks consistently to missing easy 8 ball shots that seem like the cue ball is deflecting one way or another. This week I metered myself back to the basics. Less spin, hit center ball or light follow. Its helping, but I feel like its time to invest in myself with a good cue. Any suggestions on how i can improve? Or maybe a video i can watch? Not trying to be a professional, just play competitively. Thanks FX, love your videos.... And the game!!
I've been playing for 50 years with standard maple shafts. I've tried low deflection shafts, but I don't like them. I like the fine tuning of the stroke that I can only do with standard shafts. I play the squirt. I know exactly where the cue ball is going. With a low deflection shaft, the physics of the interaction between the cue and the cue ball is obscured with an additional layer of interaction - namely the amount of springyness of the shaft. While this can be learned (and compensated for) for any given low deflection shaft, low deflection shafts mask player error. It also prevents and muffles subtle cue ball manipulation by normalizing "errors" into being effectively the same shot. But, what if those "errors" are not errors? What if you intended the tiny off-center shot? With a low deflection shaft, you now need to shoot even more off center for the same effect. Why not just learn to shoot accurately in the first place instead of using the crutch of low-deflection shaft? It seems like playing with a low-deflection shaft will eventually hamper your progress. I'm not a pro, so I'm probably missing something. Maybe I'm just a case of old dogs being incompatible with new tricks.
Thank you for your comments, Sir. You make some good points, but you’re certainly missing something when you would have a hard time finding even 10 top 100 pros that aren’t using low deflection cues. There’s a couple left, but they’re very difficult to find- of the ones that are left the people with the same feelings as you have and those who have sponsors we don’t offer low deflection cues. On top of that 95% of amateur players cannot benefit from the small nuances you described. They’re lucky enough to hit the cue ball where they want to in the first place. As a result, that’s why low deflection is king- you can be off and still be on- as for your game you should keep with what you feel best with. I appreciate you taking the time to watch and leave your comments
@@FXBilliards You're exactly right about the rarity of pros still using a standard shaft. I can only explain this by granting that a good low-deflection shaft actually performs consistently (i.e. the springyness can be counted on to always be the same). (Sponsorships are another reason, of course). Otherwise no one could reliably learn to compensate. If it's consistent, the shaft makes no difference to a pro (or even to an old perfectionist amateur like myself) - once you get used to it. My hesitation to switch has always been my concern about the consistency. Because of manufacturing complexity, I've always assumed that a low deflection shaft cannot be as consistent as a standard shaft - thus always leading to a bit of unpredictability. If I'm wrong about that, maybe I'll switch (when I get a bit older and my hands start to shake :)
I personally own a cynergy and absolutely love carbon fiber now! However, my pool table is relatively new, I have yet to buy a house set of pool cues. Is there any set you would recommend? I essentially just want something decent for when friends come over that most importantantly won't damage the felt with terrible tips. Thank you for all the work you put into your channel!
Does a LD shaft with a soft tip change a draw shot? I am looking at a Jacoby Black. I have tried them and the Revo, both are nice but the Revo doesn't have the joint I need. I cannot seem to draw very well with them. With that said I cannot draw very well with a standard shaft with a soft tip. I have shot with hard tips for 20 years and currently use a Kamui Black Hard and have no trouble drawing the table. Give me a soft tip and I cannot make it happen, this maybe a timming issue with my particular stroke and could possibly adjust over time to a soft tip. Hard tips hold their shape and I like the feel better than soft tips. I guess the question is why do these shafts come with soft tips and is it ok to use a hard tip on a carbon fiber shaft. I do understand the physics behind tips and you will get less deflection from a soft tip but contact time on the cue ball is not much different than a hard tip. The whole more English with a soft tip was debunked years ago which is another reason I use a hard tip. Any insight would be helpful.
LD should not affect your DrawShot unless there’s English applied to it. But because carbon fiber is more consistent than wood, you may have a more consistent DrawShot. And by the way that “debunking“ experiment involves so much human error that I would not give it too much credibility one way or another. It was bubble gum, science
Hi I am a 30 year player and out of all my cues I like my sneaky pete wood to wood joint the best.I'm thinking about getting a Meucci cue with a black dot shaft.What do you think about that transition?
Thank you so very much for offering this informative video. I dropped out of H.S. for this game but haven't picked up a cue for decades. After a tour of the Marine Corps as well as Viet Nam, here I am at 74 getting back into it. Any advantage I can get with equipment at my age is always welcome! I was looking for a cue between $175 to $250, just a good quality cue for an intermediate player. I have played occasionally throughout the years of course but have always enjoyed having my own cue to get used to and play with. Any suggestions will be most appreciated. Thanks' again!
Nice video and scary how you released this the same day I am looking at low deflection shafts on my lunch break. Had a solid APA SL7 tell me recently that a low deflection could help up my game. Currently a fan of McDermott, as that is my current cue (basic GS series), and looking at the iPro shaft or a Defy Full Carbon Fiber. Have you had any experience with McDermott Cues? Also just want to say keep up the great content, I've only been subscribed for a few months but your videos have really helped me with my game. Try to watch or and even re-watch a video or 2 before I go into a match/practice.
Many people have trouble adjusting to a carbon fiber shaft. Good advice about staying only with the low deflection cue. I would love some pointers or advice on how to adjust quicker. I always allowed for the deflection, with my old shaft, and on certain shots, I miss, with my new shaft because of old habits. HELP !!!
The only solution is repetitive practice of full side English shots. You have to retrain your brain to the new amounts of deflection and English applied.
The sound bothers me because for one im not use to hearing that sound that the carbon fiber cues make. It make me automatically think there is something wrong with my cue or my tip. Thats why i dont like that sound. Now i do own a mc dermit cue and i bought one of there low deflection shaft its feel and looks like would but its low deflection. I dont notice a sound so im ok with it. Actually like it but it hits different then the shaft that originally came with it. It definitely has a feel and the vibration feel totally lighter.
Got a radial predator sneaky coming with a 12.4 revo. I have been playing with the mcdermott lucky cues that came with my table. They are not terrible but I get a lot of vibration so I am looking forward to not having that issue.
Hey Brian, long time first time. Love your channel, it’s improved my game drastically! Question…Why is my wooden customLucasi custom ultra-slim 10 piece radial low deflection shaft so noodly, but my new Revo 12.4 30 inch is stiff as a board. How can these both be considered low deflection?
The term low deflection is used pretty loosely. Your Z is a Ferrari your Lucasi is a Mustang. and I’m sure Lucasi is not using the same process as predator which is protected by about a dozen patents. I’ve seen some $300 cues describe themselves as low deflection. and I think we all know better, but there are no regulations about the use of the words. They should call them lower deflection than standard deflection. Sorry if my rant doesn’t answer your question, but that’s the best I can do.
Picked up a Predator Sport 2 with a 314-3 two years ago when I got my table. I have been really thinking of getting a Revo shaft, or a complete cue with a Revo, and wanted to know your thoughts on it. Is there a big difference between the Revo and 314? I recently switched to a break cue with a carbon shaft and really like it a lot.
In my opinion, the best carbon fiber cues play better than the best wooden shafts. Especially over the long run, because people quickly forget that a wooden shaft is constantly changing from the time you take it out of the box. It is never the same as it was before. There’s a reason such an incredibly large percentage of top players are using carbon fiber, unless their sponsors don’t have a carbon fiber shaft. But that said, I’ll take a predator 314 over a cheap carbon fiber cue that may have been made with a number of shortcuts to keep the price down.
I play with a 12.5 mm shaft with a 16 inch pro taper. It's not hollowed out. But does offer the benefits of lower deflection. But I will be honest. It the feel why it's my choice of shafts. I've never liked the feed back from a predator shaft. If you like their hit great. It's a personal thing. Predator isn't hurting from the hand full of guys like me who want a more solid feel. But to me feel is very important. Also I feel I go through the cue ball more pure with a solid shaft. Which does bonders for dealing with deflection. I've tried a predator for a while but noticed I missed more with it and wasn't getting as good of spin mainly because of it limiting my stroke. Some of this could be because I use a short back swing and long follow through. I noticed when I was younger that the vast majority of stroke errors were in the backswing. So I eliminated alot of those issues
Brian, the low deflection shaft makers always say you must have the “mated” butt to get the most performance from the shaft. Is it true or can you use a butt you already have as long as the pins are the same of course. Thanks
Hello and great video! I have been playing with a z3 for a very long time and love the low deflection that it has. May I ask you what tip that you prefer to use on your shafts? I used to use Tiger Everest but now use Predator Victory mediums. Thank you for all of your videos Bryan !!!
New to the channel and I appreciate the knowledge! Very informative.. Just got a 19 oz viper cue.. like 42 bucks and a go sports 7 foot table and loving being able to play the game more again. Never really had my own equipment before. Ever try the pure x by players low deflection? And will the smaller tip size and kamui tip get me more draw easier and be able to add more English? Thanks for your time.
Thanks for watching and I think that players makes the best cues under $300. The smaller tip will help a little with deflection. But keep in mind that the purex is entry-level low deflection and won’t be as low deflection as some of the more expensive shafts. But I do like it for the price
@@FXBilliards appreciate that very much. So looks like the best option is to get a predator shaft with my threads and be good to go. Do you have a video on what to do on a cue when you get in before shooting for the first time? Like do you have to scuff and shape immediately..
Just bought a Jacoby ultra. Magic??? I'm shootn way better rt out the gate with it. 31 inch tho which is concerning to me, but if I keep playing like this I'll just have to let that go. Been playing 30 yrs with a standard shaft.
Very well explained Bryan. I use the same setup as you do. Predator 19oz with a Revo 12.4 shaft. The only difference is, I use the Kamui black soft tip which I think at a time you were using until you switched to the Predator Soft? Question for you. I am really on the fence on picking up and trying the Revo 11.8. In the past I had used a Z2 shaft which I really enjoyed until I picked up my 12.4. I loved the 12.4 that much I actually picked up a backup 12.4. I am debating on the 11.8 and had asked another RU-vidr here his thoughts. And his reply was this... "If you want to switch you a small shaft you're going to have to be more accurate at where you hit the cue ball. Any deviation in your stroke will be more noticeable with a smaller shaft as you may accidently apply more spin than wanted." Any thoughts or extra advice you could give me is much appreciated! Thank you for your time and help.
I'm a wheelchair pool player who has very very old Viking pool cue that I play with. I tried to upgrade to something more modern so I picked up the Purex htx 15 because it had such wonderful reviews but I just can't get comfortable with it. And your opinion is that a good low deflection cue to start with should I keep that one for a while and try to get used to it or would it be worth spending twice or three times as much money and getting something like the Predator? I went to the pool tournament this here in Las Vegas this weekend and tried out the Meucci cues and the Bull carbon fiber shaft. Do you think I should try to go back and check out one of the Predator cues with the revo shaft? I guess one of my main concerns about going over to low deflection is what if I'm out somewhere and I don't have my pool cue with me and my going to be able to play with the normal house cue after using my low deflection cue or is it going to screw up my whole game? Also one other quick question do you know if there's any companies or organizations that help out disabled wheelchair pool players to be able to afford some of this fancy equipment I may even a piece of that kamui chalk is above my budget LOL thanks for your time have a great weekend
My friend just recently let me borrow his cuetec avid for a couple games and I absolutely loved it. I am in the market for a low deflection shaft for my Pechauer but I don’t know what to use. Do you have any recommendations?
So I'm fairly decent at pool so I've always wanted my very own pool cue. Just got my first one @ 32 years old 😂. I'm very excited. Hopefully the learning curve doesn't hurt my game too much. Just took it out for a spin and it shot beautifully. Just noticed that I messed up a couple times when i was trying make a cut shot. Any advice on figuring out low deflection cues for someone relearning their game
Back to basics, shoot center ball for about 2 weeks and then go back to shooting with english. Efren is my favorite player and have learned a lot from him, not just the crazy shots! I'm in a comparable boat as you and made the switch about the time you wrote this message. It was my first cue I wasn't given or won, damn it felt great to buy it too! I've found my precision has gone up with the LD shaft. What got me at first was learning to not compensate for so much deflection on side english, everything came easier since I got more action out of my new cue than my old one. Depending on the cut I use different english (I mean this is obvious lol) however I prefer straight top english on harder cuts unless I absolutely have to use other english. Top makes it the easiest for hard cuts in my opinion, bottom makes it harder.
@FXBilliarts, i’am a rookie ( 2 months playing) and have a Dufferin D-542 with a low deflection shaft. I’am missing my pots a lot. I can trade it for a Dufferin D-SE20. Which of those two would be a better first pool cue candidate to learn the game? Thanks for you’re time.
I have not used them so I would not be able to give you a good answer BUT I would recommend low deflection over standard deflection. There might not be more than 5 top 30 pros that are not using Low D.
So I went from a cheap junk cue to viking and it immediately improved my game, but now I'm wanting a low deflection cue, has anyone used the viking exact shot low deflection cue by chance?
Hi, I changed my shaft to 314 a few days ago and feel that I need to use more power in my shots to get the same effect than with normal shaft, especially with follow shots. Is this normal due to the lighter weight of the shaft or something?
Thanks for the video. How do you think the Predator shafts lineup against other low deflection shafts like Lucassi, and Meucci? In my experience Predator started the game of low deflection and everyone save McDermott is now trying to follow suit. I do want to like Meucci though. Just don't have a vendor nearby to try one agains my Z shaft. Thanks!
Predator perfected LD many years ago and you have to keep in mind that the words low deflection are like the words Sports Car. Lucasi is very much a Mazda Miata where Predator is a Porsche. The lower cost cues are not quite as LD as the high end cues. That's why they are so much less expensive. I have been using Predator for about 15 years and even when I had a Lucasi Butt, I had a Predator 314 shaft on it.
Advise please from one Predator expert to a Predator guy: I have a Roadline with a Revo 12.9 med. I'm looking at the 9K-3. Upgrading to a Revo at initial purchase for only $160 is a no-brainer, but I was thinking why have two 12.9' so I was considering a 12.4 on the 9K. I'll probably be going back and forth between the Roadline and 9K, maybe the 12.9 for 8-ball and the 12.4 for 9-ball. IS THIS A REALLY DUMB IDEA? Another option I was considering is an 11.8 and use that just for practice striking the cue ball accurately (like practicing on 9-footers when all you play on in APA are bar boxes.) Just no reason to have two 12.9's that I can see. Thanks!
I try to keep all of my shafts as close to the same size as possible but a smaller tip might play better on a really slow table giving you more spin on the ball with the same stroke. Just a thought.
I think I have sent you a cell phone movie of me making a shot. RU-vid said it will show up on 9/1. If that’s true, you will see the cue still rotating a little even though I’m trying to make a stop shot.
