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Not my best position play, but I managed to get through these racks with some luck and some shot making. Still an opportunity for some of you guys to learn something. Enjoy.
"Spoiler, the ghost does not win". MAYBE NOT WITH YOU!!! 🙂 Even then, though, you can pick a case on video where you did win...just sayin;, No call outs, just a point out. Kidding aside, it is nice that you do the demos front to back, uncut. Just curious, do you have a Fargo rating? You look like you have a really good game. It wouldn't be bragging now, because I asked,
My league team captain has started working with us (mostly me) on cue-ball control by playing a modified version of Saratoga. We play it the normal way, except we use all 15 balls, not 13. Same general idea; after the break, choose whether you want solids or stripes by pocketing a ball, but after that pocket, every shot has to be geared toward either making the lowest of your set of balls or hitting it and playing defense. Playing rotation that way forces me to focus on whether offense or defense is a better option every single time I get ready to shoot a ball, and it also forces me to focus on cue ball control; not just making the shot I'm shooting, but where I'm leaving the cue ball for the next shot. It has really helped my standard 8-ball game a lot.
It might depend on where you live, but with the cloth I have on it probably about $4600. With the balls I’m using about $5000. And these numbers are about two years old.
You teach me so much, B. You’re by far my favorite billiards creator and we all appreciate you. This video demonstrates the necessity between switching between open and closed bridges, which I find super difficult. You’re the man, B, thank you as always. 🫡🍻🎱
Hey Brian Thanks for all your great instructional videos- you are one of the best! I have to ask you again though, what are YOU looking at when you’re making contact for a draw shot? Is it the cue ball or object ball? I remember you saying it varies between players, e.g., break shots it’s probably the cue ball, etc. But what are YOUR eyes on when you make contact? Thanks again for your clear and concise instructions.
I have been playing pool since 1967. I thought I was above average. Brian you are great. I love watching your tips and listening to your dialogue. Keep up the excellent work. I need to get back to doing the drills.
Great info, but curious about your “draw with spin” comment in the first minute (7 ball draw back to make the 8). Though the cue ball did have a bit of spin just before it touched the rail ahead of the 8 ball, I’d thought this shot was all about using the side contact on the cue ball to deliver deflection, which allows a fuller hit on the OB and changes the contact angle. The OB is spun in the pocket a bit from the fuller contact & imparted spin, and your stroke delivers just enough momentum so at contact, the pure under spin takes over. I use this stroke gear on a flat angle draw shot, where I want to flatten the draw-back angle to be straighter and seems all due to deflection effect rather than spin. Is that the physics of what’s going on?
The spin on the cube ball is not about deflection. It’s about spinning off of the rail to take the angle down table. The sides apin can be there even after the ball stops. I’m not sure, but I hope that answers your question
2nd ball break has its advantages. In handicapped tournaments or leagues where you are giving game spots or balls spots, it can be both an offense and defensive play. Offensive due to moving the 8 towards a pocket, defensive because the break usually leaves a cluster somewhere and will be an advantage who knows both how and when to break out clusters. It doesn't leave your opponent with a wide open rack. The balls can roughly be manipulated as well. Breaking deeper on a ball in a second ball break leaving more balls clustered to one side of the table and the 8 moving in the right direction. Breaking shallower on the 2nd ball, moving the 8 less more giving a more even spread and 1 or 2 clusters, and Breaking near the middle of the 2nd ball leaving a favorable spread with 1 cluster that an experienced player can get to, but a less experienced will have trouble with (when to break it how, how to get in position break it out, where to break it out to in order to complete your run, and where you may want to play safe to attempt to get ball in hand on the cluster. Namely, it will make running the rack for my opponent more difficult and give me time to make up any spot that I'm giving. Once I get ahead in the match, I like you, break from the middle of the table and play more offensively by spreading the rack wide open. If I make a ball, will usually be able to run out in about 1.4 innings (including the break). I play in a league where I not only have to spot most players games, but also balls. So some of my matches, I may have to spot a game or two against other run out players, or I have to spot 4 games and 3 balls against less experienced players in a 7-3 race. So clusters and knowledge, or making the 8 on the break can be helpful. One month years ago, I made the 8 on the break 8 times at the Billiards Expo (bar tables) and 14 more times on 9 footers. The most in a row, on Bar tables while gambling, 3. Straight (it mentally breaks an opponent) So helpful for certain circumstances. Sucks royally if you scratch against a good player though.
I am a big fan of doing the bank to no pocket, draw shot and hit soft enough that the object ball stops just before hitting the foot rail a second time. Attempting to draw cue ball back 1/2 table.
Experience talkin'!!! Educational stuffs ... and the vid from 10yrs ago -- well it was dead on too!!! Without ---> PRACTICE <--- very few shots will be high percentage success'!!! You have to "find" yer game! And so so much info is available right here on this channel --- FREE!!! Love it Bryan! Be Safe
Brian, I didn't see a link on what the ball is that shows where you hit it? Can you give me the product name? Thanks Brian, love your instruction! Clear, concise, and excellent video quality! Dave, Boise, Idaho
I have to say the draw is one of the single most hardest shots to get down in my opinion. It was tough for me as I had several things going on (cue not level, not following through, not getting tip low enough) and I notice a lot of beginners if not most either can’t draw or can’t draw it much. The closed bridge helped me tremendously like night and day difference but I’m the same as you I still use an open bridge for the most part besides long draws and powered up shots. Your videos and content have helped me tremendously and I really appreciate everything you put into them!
Had to pause little after the 2 min mark. I'd like to add something. I've been called out many times for jacking up on draw shots. There are many people who are trying to help but the truth of the matter is, I jack up to limit my draw back. There are many times where I want a little more speed with little less draw. It sounds dumb because I can't really explain it better than that. I've heard all the counter arguments, "well don't hit so low if you want less draw", "use less speed" yada, yada, yada. But ultimately, I personally find I get more consistent response and far less overdraw by adjusting cue angle for the desired result as opposed to adjusting pace. Infact, the more I slowed my object ball pace, the more overdraw I saw, that's why I learned to cut my draw by jacking up. Sorry I can't clarify better despite literally having this conversation IRL last Friday.
Now all of you should have a perfect draw stroke in no more than a month. Brian gave up ALL the Goods on the Power Draw. Excellent presentation as always. U da man B!
The only issue at hand when drawing with a short bridge is that the backstroke also tends to be short, minimizing the spin needed. I actually think, using numbers, a bridge in the range of 7"-8" would elongate the backswing to create that necessary draw. Everything else, to me, is exactly what you've said, i.e., level out, hold follow-thru, etc.
Thanks for your comments the queen I was making is most amateurs using a long bridge fail to hit the cb where they need to. They are better off with less power and more accuracy on the cb.
You explain things so easily that it should benefit all levels of players. Would love to see a match with you against fellow You-Tuber Sharivari...even odds.
Thanks for your comments. I’m a big fan of our European buddy. But I would be asking for a spot. He’s got about a 20 year age advantage on me. Thanks for watching
AND you might get another 1.2 million views, huh? :-) Nice try, though. I am kidding you here, JIC you don't realize it, due to all the qualifications you gave for remaking the video. I appreciate the video, none of which were views. I don't have any trouble with full table draws (most of the time), but I tried to show someone how to draw one night, and couldn't determine why he couldn't, although I didn't give it a lot of effort....and I mean he couldn't even shoot a medium length STOP shot. What helped me more than anything was taking a stripe, turning the stripe vertical and crosswise to the shot, to see exactly the contact point. Another thing that helped was good stroke mechanics, primarily a slow back swing and momentary stop at the furthest rearward extent. Stroke mechanics, as you always harp, are critical to EVERYTHING.
