for those out there that have bought lower speced bikes heres’s a tip….i put my rockshox fork serial number into their website and found that it was upgradable to their much higher spec fork model using their damper & spring kits…saved myself an easy $1K over purchasing a new fork with all the bells and whistles
I recently did exactly this with a Marin San Quentin and it ended up around the same cost of a higher end full bid. The big difference for me is the ability to use multiple component brands to dial in each comfort and riding experience...plus, them extra warranties are always nice lol
I'm doing the exact same thing!!! Buying the SQ1 because I also love the paint job (wish they did frame only). Dropper and hope wheels first since its easy to covert the rear 148 pro5 hub to the 141 QR dropouts on the SQ1 and going from there. Its more about personalisation and making the bike my build because I love to tinker, otherwise I'd just get the SQ3
No, just buy a frame. Wait until websites have sales or use coupon codes and you can get every part you want at 20% or more off. I just did this with my stumpjumper evo alloy frame build with frame/shock on sale for $1315 shipped. You can do high end build full-sus for under 5k.
@@powdork yea you can go the upgrade route, but that makes more sense if you wait till parts wear down to upgrade. If you upgrade before even riding then you just have a bunch of parts you need to sell.
so i have done this. I turned a base spec fuji nevada 1.4 29er into a xc monster. The most important thing when buying the base bike is find a good frame from a good brand for as cheap as possible. Then remember that when it comes time to do the suspension it will cost you at least what the bike cost in the first place. Oh and starting with a bike worth £1000 is missing the point of why people do this, then you tell them it is hard. So well done GMBN for being out of touch and then making a hit piece about how you should not be improving affordable bikes
I actually always just buy frames and build from there. I can definitely do it cheaper and I get exactly what I want. But, more importantly, I really enjoyed building bikes and hunting down all the parts that I want. And if you have enough patience you can usually get things on sale, not to mention my own personal reserve of parts
This is generally the route I've always taken with bikes. I've gone from ratty old hardtails to decent full sus bikes just from upgrading over time. Comes from growing up in the 70's/80's and having to build one usable bike out of the bits of the other bikes I'd managed to destroy!
I prefer getting mid-spec with good suspension, like elite performance level (no need to change). also the dismounted mid-spec mixed parts on slx/xt level do have a good resale value. done this to an Altitude C70, custom built to X01 AXS, E11 Hydra Carbon Wheels, Bike Yoke Dropper, Race Face Carbon Cockpit, SQlab/Ergon contact points and swapped bearings to CaneCreek 110 and White Industries DUB. Best spec I've ever ridden!
The most budget friendly format I've faced over the years is : buying used complete bike which is good in most parts and then just replace some few components. However my personal way is a little different, I already have all top-spec components I like, so I'm just changing frames :) however sometimes it's more wise to get a used bike with desired frame (especially when used complete cost same as just a new frame alone), so that you can build and sell another bike from old frame and parts that came on "new" frame
Regarding the HG freehub vs 12 speed. It’s not entirely true that HG won’t work. SRAM NX 12 speed cassettes work on Shimano HG. I’m running one on my Cove and I’m setting up others like that too. If you want better quality cassettes then yes, upgrade the freehub but SRAM NX seems to be working well so far. 🤙
I found my self buying a bike a step above the base model and upgrading it from there. I think the top spec is not really going to fit the bill in most cases. However sometimes going above the base spec and then upgrading from there can actually work out the best.
I do the same with my Rose Bonero. I didn't buy the best version, the cheapest, but it already had some parts that I wanted. I can ride it and gradually build it up to my dream bike. Since I haven't been riding for long, I don't have a specific structure in mind right from the start, but rather I notice whether something bothers me about the performance and what prevents me from the way I want to ride. 😅
I just did that with my Scott Spark, I bought the base alloy frame bike and now have the bike setup I wanted. It was already a great bike, now it’s just that but better.
This is exactly what I’ve just done with exactly the same bike. Such a good bike for the money. Just upgrade when needs be. Great winter hack bike to save my full sus all the winter muck.
I really like that bike and the approach to the build. I think top spec offers a great bike, but I prefer getting the base and building from there. I have a Rocky Mountain Growler 20 and I’ve upgraded everything but the wheels. The top spec Growler goes for $2,299 and I’m about 3.4k into mine, but it’s exactly how I want it.
This is always a great topic, people always give me grief about what I spent on my bike. My personal difference is that I have spinal issues with my neck and lower back (I'm 50 now). So I wanted a comfortable, but aggressive XC bike, that met my medical needs. I bought a brand new Giant XTC aluminum version. The only thing original on the bike right now is the frame lol. My son works at a bike shop and just installed a Cane Creek angel headset on it. Many people have said why have I put so much into a cheaper bike and not a carbon top spec. The thing for me was regardless I'd be changing parts anyway to suit my needs. I still run a 3X drivetrain, Shimano XT with XTR shifting mech. Mavic Crossmax wheels and Renthal carbon bars all to help with compliance, and RockShox SID forks. I at least got to get complete control using parts I knew would help my situation. I still have the bike , it's been my favorite build for me. Even my son now understands why I built the bike the way I did. I don't think people always look at the complete picture when people build bikes, they think throwing 10K and the bike from new is the same thing and it's not. Some people are lucky and can pull that off , but not everyone is in that same boat. Just my situation though!
I used to buy frames but not anymore. Better value to buy a whole bike and something as near to what you want so can avoid the buying twice. If you buy mid spec and above at least there's resale. If you are going to change things make sure you bought into the right 'eco system' I'd like to go from XT to AXS but I there's a penalty cost to that makes it's too painful.
Great video and perfectly timed. I had the exact same bike delivered Thursday! Currently in my local shop being set up and having dropper fitted. As a newbie I’m going to rock what I have and replace/upgrade as I go. Hopefully get we see more of a long term test of the scout from a tech point of view. Good work GMBN 👏 🇬🇧
8:30 it's kind of funny - the handlebars on my hardtail were the second thing i wanted to - i _had to_ - change. Right after i threw the Schwalbe 🤢 tyres off. Getting rid of them was 1st priority. Entry brakes, sub-entry fork - i didn't care about them at all. It came with a 720mm wide bar, and i am a man - i hated it from the first day. 780mm with thicker grips 🔨 and one happy rider.
Hi Anna- My approach was a bit different with materials and reliability most important. Bottom line: Took a low parts spec (SRAM SX) but high quality Aluminum frame, fully built OEM bike from a California manufacturer. I bought all the new parts(drivetrain, wheels, brakes, etc)I really wanted and had a shop remove and replace them at a minor cost. Now, have a great XC/Trial hardtail frame that is current in design with all my fav XTR and XT components. No electronics, no auto this or that, just a pure fully manual, reliable, and fun rocket ship without a gram of carbon. Just the tooling needed to properly change over parts from SRAM to Shimano would be 500+ quid! Cheers from California ☀️
Just recently got the scout frame, really enjoyed bolting on all my own bits. Probably in the same ball park as the top spec scout now but I'm pretty sure its ultimately been more expensive, just thing like bars, stems, clamps etc cost a bit for nice shiny smart ones. Learned a lot making it from the frame up now, a lot more confident i can repair things on long trips if it comes to it.
I think you're spot on. It might depend on the bike, but I've yet to see a frame-only build, built up with new parts and not Pinkbike take-offs, that isn't significantly more expensive than an identical pre-built -- especially with all the sales going on. I was pricing this out with the Stumpjumper Evo Comp since it's been on sale for around $3750. The frameset is $2050 which leaves you $1700 to finish the bike if you want to beat that price. GX Eagle mechanical is ~$550, XD-hub wheels are ~$550, and a comparable fork (since Rhythm is OEM) is ~$500.That leaves you with $100 and you still need: brakes, rotors, dropper post + lever, seat, stem, bars, grips, and tires.
@@uberamd you are right for sure, the only way to realistically make it happen is buying new take offs on pinkbike. You would have to be patient and wait for deals to come up on parts you need for the build
I had build my S-works starting with the year before frame 40%less, then add the year before fork 40%less again. Chose the drivetrain, brakes, cockpit in separate stem and handlebar, seatpost saddle and grips you prefer. Another 50% save consist in build your own the perfect wheel set with aluminium rims. You will have your perfect bike at 60% of the top spec price.
#gmbn I did this durning the Height of Covid, Picked up a lowish spec Trek Fuel EX 7 and build it up to my Fueleinstein. Changed out front and rear sus to DVO Diamond/Topaz, upgrade to 4 pot XT Icetech brakes. Changed the NX out to a full GX drivetrain with AXS, changed out tires, handle bars, pedals and grips more then once trying to find something that I'm comfortable as well as various other small things like valve stems, dropper post lever and so on. Defeintly didn't save any $$ but I had fun and learned allot as I did most the work myself.
In general doing this costs more, unless you upgrade as things break. A good fork alone is nearly 1k and a wheel set is another 1k or more. Getting the mid spec is usually the best value and with a few upgrades can perform better than the top spec. No point in upgrading to mid level upgrades because the mid spec would have already had that.
Cheaper bike and upgrade has always been my philosophy, especially on consumable items and wheels. Brakes are always a personal preference and often it's better off to just get the most basic bike and fit brakes of your choice after. Likewise with wheels, the moment I ding a rim, it's time for a relace. By the time you've amassed your upgraded components, whenever it's time for a new bike, I just reframe (courtesy of C2W schemes).
Awesome bike! Love the build. Back then, I would buy just frame and build it up with components one at a time, paycheck to paycheck. One build took me well over a year to finally complete (GT Xizang). Now that I much older, I just buy what I can afford and replace parts as they age. We always forget also to factor in specialty tools for those modern components especially if you are home-garage type machanic. I find todays bike and component are much robust than I was riding in the late 90's.
I can't help but tinker and build a bike my way. Done it with a base model up and frame only build. Loved the journey of base up and going to do it again. The bonus is you end up with spare parts or you can sell them to recoup costs.
Top tips and good news for everyone getting started in MTB fun. . The upgrades can be done over time and help spread the costs and let you do thorough research on the parts you are fitting. .
Order a Stoic 3 (29er) and also: Lyrik Select RC 29" DebonAir+ 140, DT Swiss E 1900 SPLINE Wheelset, SRAM GX Eagle AXS Upgrade Kit, SRAM GX Eagle DUB Crank, XG-1275 GX Eagle cassette and GX Eagle chain and BB DUB. The aim is (after sell all the factory parts) the bike setup will be 2100 euros, maximum. The inestiment was 1500 euros for parts and 1100 euros for complete stock bike.
I bought a base spec bike this year with the intention of changing out higher spec parts from my last bike. I changed the wheels and fork out straight off so I could sell them to a mate. I figured Id change the drive train, brakes, dropper and cockpit too but I just started riding it and realized not all of that is needed just yet. Turns out some of the lower spec stuff is fine. Deore drivetrain has been fine, I did throw my xt shifter on tho. Brakes are fine, with my newer wheels, rotors and tires doin enough to make the brakes well good enough. Dropper is sweet, lever sucks so changing that out.... I guess what Im saying is maybe I'm guilty of being a parts snob!
I started with a donor bike as I wanted a Ti frame, got the cheapest spec I could, then stripped it and rebuilt it with my own top tier spec, and recouped some of the cash by selling the original parts. Ended up with a bike that would have cost me at least twice what I actually paid for it in the end - final build is Ti 29er HT, Eagle AXS drivetrain, MT7 brakes, Fox 36 Factory fork and Fox Kashima dropper, Renthal cockpit, and a bunch of hidden stash tools and a tool cage and wrap……all for £2.5K…..bargain
Great video, thank you. I particularly appreciate the fact that you are taking an affordable approach. Not everyone e has $6000 for an ebike. This is the approach I’m taking with my Trek Powerfly 4 that I just bought.
I think it depends on the rider and his/her budget. For a basic bike is fine because I just like riding on trails, but I am not doing anything too aggressive on trails so a basic bike that is well maintained works for me. But I think a rider who may race or has the ability to ride aggressively on the trails…I would recommend buying the high end bike because the equipment is critical because equipment failure could cause injury or death.
Love it. I bought a base model 2021 Specialized Fuse with the same idea. As i break or wear parts i will replace with nice stuff. Also nice to have spare parts on hand.
I bought a cheaper bike and put M770-72 XT components, Thomson Elite 130mm stem, Elite 410mm post, and Chris King Head set. I also put 719 Mavics on it too😏👍👍
It would have been interesting if you had priced a frame only build. Chain reaction has had some really good deals on nukeproof bikes making this kind of thing even more viable.
I chose my bike because it came with a good fork and the drivetrain came Shimano , though not xt , came SLX at a later date can change out when worn out , the RSD Middlechild I got I chose without a dropper because I did not like the one it came with so I can get a oneup . The wheels when they die instead of fixing I’ll get good aluminum ones with good hubs , it is not the new derailer hanger mount but I do not foresee me ever using electronic drive train , but what I can do is change my chain-stay length .
I've been noticing this more on road bikes (would love to hear from more dedicated mtb enthusiasts if they have seen the same on the mtb side) but sometimes buying the frame and sourcing parts at MSRP (I believe it's called RRP too) is cheaper than buying the fully configured bike at the high end price points and I'm even seeing it at mid-tier levels too which is so odd considering 5-10 years ago, it was difficult to piece together a bike using 2nd hand parts. And then if you start changing anything on the high end builds that required cabling to be re-ran, well any savings on labor costs for the bike build are almost 100% gone.
I just love tinkering with things, so it doesn't matter what I buy. Whether it's bikes, autos, audio, etc., I'm going to end up "upgrading" things, it's just my nature 😅.
As with so many people here I upgrade as I get much better components. One thing you missed Galper purple disk brake pads, they are very good and hard wearing.
I love those Spank Vibrocore rims. I built a wheelset with them and I9 hubs after hating and selling a too stiff set of carbon wheels. Excellent vertical compliance from the very shallow 350 rim is way more important to me.
Definitely all about the frame! I have upgraded my base model cheaper bike with a great parts, that would transfer to another bike and make it excellent spec but now thinking about the frame. Love the blue scout 29, but about $900 AUD. Decisions...decisions, but looks like none available anyway.
I couldn't afford the top version, so I bought a RM Growler and over time I upgraded. Now my bike is higher spec'd than a Growler 50 for roughly the same price.
I think this approach only works for certain bikes / brands. The Scout is only an alloy frame so you can buy the cheapestin the range and still get the same frame just a different colour to the top end. If you were looking at the Mega then only the Alloy frames come with lower spec components the carbon frames are higher speced throughout. In this case you are probably better buying frame only and specing the exact components you want. This approach is probably less risk if you are an 'established' mtb'er. For someone coming into the sport I would recomend buying a good budget bike and then, further on, selling it and spending on getting better and, inevitably!!, more expensive bikes as they get into sport.
Nice vid, Anna! I really like this practical approach. We could buy new parts all day, but it doesn't necessarily increase the fun factor on the trail!
I upgraded my old haro 1997 mtb, it rides great now. However, I know if was a newer frame , the upgrade would have been better still . Saying that, tge bike would have had a better starting point to begin with, so the upgrades wouldn't have been so extreme
almost all manufacturers lay out the models in a way that the better model has a bit better components all around. Which often means I would have to get the best spec just to get good brakes, although I don't care about the better rims or mech or a more colorful display on an ebike.. so if only one major component needs upgrading (always the brakes for me) then I take the lower spec. But anything else is not worth it- especially when you now have to try selling parts on ebay and such. If a lot of components need changing I would rather buy a frame and go from there
I upgrade from base specs as you say the frames are used through there different specing I have a workshop full of upgrade bargains that I accumulated through the year And when I have spare time I have ago at installing the parts Good vid Anna
I have a question that I don't think I've seen answered anywhere. A bike comes with a 51mm offset fork, the fork you plan to upgrade to doesn't have a 51mm rather it has 44mm offset. How's that going to change the ride/feel of the bike?
Agree with the fork upgrade and the tire upgrades. On top of that I would have considered tire inserts (like a Vittoria Air Liner light) as well in that upgrade, as that might let me run much lower pressure providing very different handling at a much reduced cost. I'm currently running a Fox Rhythm 32 that came with my stock Canyon Exceed. I have found it very annoying how much it vibrates under braking, I assume because it isn't so stiff. So a new FOX 34 Factory upgrade would be a stiffer upgrade? What do you think?
Great video! Been thinking of doing the same thing. To a Vitus Mythique. Because like you said even if I got the top spec one I'd change alot of the parts 👍
Surely it would have been worth assessing the resale value of all the components removed? I expect in this case, it would have offset the expenditure to the tune of £500-£600 potentially?
I brought a nukeproof scout 290 frame 2022 last year. Brakes for me was one of most important as cheap brakes just don’t stop you quick enough. Handlebars carbon fibre 800mm. 12 speed sram 10-52t. Can I put sram usher on a 2022 scout 290?
That is a great build! You can also upgrade components as you go. You don't have to get everything all at once. That way it is cost effective over time.🤓
I've already got a bike but if i wanted another one (like a downhill bike) I'd buy a frame then build it up over the year searching the internet for sales/ bargains and picking the components I wanted. I bet I could build a top end bike for £££s less than a stock top end bike.
1399 for that Artichoke Green 290 on Nukeproof site right now. RS in Black is 2999. 1600 to play with..Theres no way, as a consumer, you could build the same spec bike for 1600
I will have to say there are independent bike companies, with mid range prices tags,that are a lot better then the big brands that have entry price low end bikes,
Building frame up is more expensive, let alone buying a whole bike and ripping it apart and putting new stuff on it... Buy highest spec you can afford, replace bits when they break.. High end bikes are nicer to ride and will keep you on the trails longer. If you don't like the hobby, youll get more back than a used bottom spec with different parts on it.
