Company I learned finishing from was 3 times the cost but offered a lifetime guarantee on their flat work, and it was transferable to a new homeowner. We wet cured all our jobs by using linseed oil and covers if needed. We also prepped our base meticulously, wetted the base as much as we could pre pour, and we're graded the day after by a dedicated inspector working for the company. I've poured driveways that cost over 100k in our exclusive areas. Driveway would cost more than the vehicles they were driving. Company still around.
@@johnnichol9412 you worrying about me messing up one word is all I needed to know about you, and you’re still wrong. Concrete is always guaranteed to crack and there isn’t a single concrete expert that would say otherwise.
I heard a news report where they took below water level samples of concrete from different depths on the concrete piers that they built the cable towers on. What they found when they tested it was that the concrete was all stronger than the concrete that was used in the piers when they were poured.
This past summer I poured a huge patio at my church school/ and fixed cement spots in the parking lot. Our deacon didn't want to water it thinking it a waste of time. Glad to know the stats for next time! Ty
The concern would be (would have been) that the slab dries / evaporates prematurely and you would end up with shrinkage cracking and possibly curling of the slab at the edges. For the cost of a new huge patio it is definitely worth the cost of some water to cure it properly. 3 days absolute minimum.
You could build a steam room to put the concrete objects you build into until they are well cured. That way the air is too humid for the water in the concrete to evaporate and all of the cement has all of the water it needs for the curing process. Then you can take them out and let the unneeded water dry out without effecting the strength of the concrete.
I hope you can respond to me. I make concrete weights for weight lifting. I buy concrete that contains gravel for extra weight and some strength. Says max psi is 4000. I mix fiberglass fibers in the mix and then i pour a bit of acrylic latex pain. Very high quality stuff that i had laying arond. I tend to eyeball this and try to acheive a oatmeal look of mix with slightly wetted. Vs super dry. After i reinforce my weights with some chicken wire mesh that is pretty compact. I then pour. Cover in a trash bag and try to find a shaded area for it to cure. You said we should wet cure so once this is dry can i simply soak the concrete in a container for the 3 days once the first part of the concrete is cured ? This should make it much stronger?
Thank you! I just laid my concrete for my carpark. My first time. I’m so frikkin tired. Then I recalled I need to keep it wet but I wasn’t really sure about it. I watched your video at the right exact moment. I can just walk on my concrete. I gave it a good spray and I’ll keep it up for a week as per your instructions. Great explanation!
After my spray I just found puddle forming. Ahhhhh! Maybe it’ll be different once cured. Anyone have any suggestions? It’s pretty close to a slope which leads to a run off into a drain.
I was a little confused when you mentioned when to start watering it. First you said once it’s set, then you said once you’re able to walk on it. To me those are very different. Set is same day, walk on it is at least 24 hours after the pour.
I just had my driveway repoured and didn’t know that I should be keeping it wet. Much of it has been in direct sunlight, wind, and high temps in the low 80s. It was poured 2.5 days ago. Is it still beneficial to hose it down with water or am I too late?
So what if I had a stem wall foundation repair? In Arizona? Do I need to basically take a hose to it. Every couple hours, every hour, should o just be out there all day for 30 days straight and just hose it as soon as I see it has dried?
Pouring concrete over concrete is a challenging technical process. The delmamination between two layers of concrete would have nothing to do with wet curing. This failure would be from improper techniques preparing the old slab and installing the new layer.
I had a driveway poured, they ran out of concrete. It took 1 hr., and 20 min., before more arrived. I have a cold joint. It is 10 days old. I live in MI. Will it crack this winter? It was 90° when they poured. What do you think about this please?
Assuming you have a good base that is either dampened or a vapor barrier, all you need to do is retard the surface evaporation. By far the easiest way to do that is by applying a sealer once able to do so. Then just let it hydrate.
When you say "wet" the concrete for 3 days, does that mean to keep it submerged under water? I am making concrete bowls. Some of the concrete bowls I am mixing them with terrazzo chips made from jesmonite. I love your videos. I have learned a lot. Thanks!
If small, yes you can fully submerge it and this will only benefit the quality of the cure. Otherwise, it simply means that you must not let the concrete fully dry out so do whatever you have to do to avoid it fully drying out when brand new.
Not different than covering with plastic. It retains both moisture and heat, which is good to a certain degree, beyond which the heat may be too much. So this would really depend on the site conditions where you are pouring this. It is common to cover fresh concrete with plastic, burlap, etc.
@@creatingconcrete I understand how important wetting is. But I see lots of efflorescence white spots in my new cement decking. Can this be removed? Should I keep wetting?
I am sorry I do not know enough about pottery to answer this question. Unless you mean concrete which is in the shape of pottery, which in that case wet curing is probably a good idea.
In Norway, they actually form huge concrete hollow tubes with the bottom closed off for oil rigs while in the ocean. They said concrete cures the best while underwater. Obviously they used a special technique to keep the saltwater from interfering with the initial pour.
Building a home in Texas this summer. Builder using fly ash in concrete mix and says for that reason does not need to wet cure. I disagree and am willing to sprinkle the slab foundation myself to properly cure. Who is right in this case?
most concrete contractors spray their concrete with curing spray the day of the pour, totally eliminating the need to waste boat loads of time spraying it with water literally all day for a week. If you hire a hack, they probably don't even spray it. But the special spray cure that's applied once the day of the pour is the #1 way to cure concrete.
@@kuntakentay6969There is college engineering professor that studies concrete for a living that disagrees with what you just said. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-1siLxrpm_PE.html
I technically recommend to wet cure everything. It will make it stronger but also more consistent for coloration and how it accepts future color / sealer layers.
i got a concrete driveway with fiber 4000 psi 10 days ago monday (today is htursyda) ir tained lightly 10 hours after or so a tiny bit. the guycame to cut the devieway the next day and I assume he likely waterd it down. i spratyed mist on to wet it when i got home from work , did it in the morning and afternoon the following day. the 3rd day we got a huge rain storm. the 4th and 5th and even 6th eday it did rain durin gthe day or night a copule times. and then i just didn't do anythign after that. and the temperatures were typically high aroun d90 and low in the mid 60s and being in michigan it was somehwat humid. does that sound like i should be good?
