SHOWER DRAIN ON CONCRETE SLAB 

hi. dont you need a p trap?

@@sina1329 the trap is below the surface of the dirt.

SCHLUTER HAS THEM

He finally did at 15:53

Common practice in slabs is to use a 2“ to 1.5” reducer which are easily found/ bought at HD/Lowes or plumbing supply or even Amzn. Shower drains are 2” and tub waste lines 1.5“ so reducer needs to be used in slab situations. If not slab like on raised foundation or second floor where the waste line is accessible , according to most codes you are supposed rerun the waste line to a 2” pipe for the shower. In any of this work, your shower drain material needs to match the waste line type - which will be black abs or white pvc pipe and fittings, using the related glue type for the pipe type.

And thank *YOU* sir

If there was not a P-trap under the dirt they would have had a lot more problems with their tub before I took it out.. I believe I was 17 in from where I started with in code for extending the drain

still you are learning from him

why is he continuing to use 1.5" pipe and such? i eliminated all that and replaced with 2" P-trap and all 2" to the existing 2" pipe, no marbles were possessed by those who ran 1.5" off existing 2" under the slab

Hope it went good. Im doing the same thing. Dirt and under slab work is done. Im just about ready for the pan and tile work to start. 👍🤠

In America? 2" in Pennsylvania

Yes my mistake , lol 2 inch abs and a 4 inch square drain cover . And that’s in New Jersey

yup

Thanks

Thanks !

Mike Reyes for the piece of wallboard that you're putting on the inside of the curb it's inevitable you will screw into the liner, but it's a moot issue when you butter the curb and redgard it and have it above your tile then you will be okay, I will link what the finished product should look like right here ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-cNLaNE2h9H8.html

StarrTile thank u so much for the answer

You did see the transition from inch and a half to 2-inch as I explained in the video the P-trap is below grade probably 10 to 12in down into the dirt

Sure, that can happen..my experience is build up on vertical run, oddly enough

Just a few bags of concrete

A pre slope does not perform as intended, but more to the point we are waterproofing the entire shower before tiles ever set so no water can get into the pan

Kerry flynn I would think the concrete does a pretty good job of holding it in place.

You are waterproofing the surface of your shower pan then what you did does not matter because water will never get to that point anyway

Thanks I am going to waterproof the pan but just in case if water did get thru I was worried since it wasn’t flush the water might not find the drain

@@davidallan4497 Hi, I was reading this and I ran into the same problem. The Flange sticks out about the same as yours. I am worried sick about the same thing. I am stressing because this is my first time doing this. Can you explain to me a little more details about that waterproofing and the flange? i am trying to understand?

ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-vw8bkGmHKrE.html

Most definitely, although I wouldn't do that on a wood floor

@@StarrTile If you don't mind me asking, why not and what would you do for a wood floor? I'm a new DIYer trying to learn all of this. I currently have an issue with my bathroom shower pan. The old owner didn't install a liner and I got a leak through the grout into the other room so I tore it up and am redoing the entire bathroom. I need to call a plumber to do what you did in this video to dig up the old drain. Thanks!

I started out using screws put backer board on wood floors, but I would miss and hit my finger enough times I gave that up long ago, I use a roofing nailer with inch and a half galvanized nails, a whole roll for every sheet, quick and cheap

As long as the tile are sloped & the pan is waterproofed you should be ok

So what you would need to do is go to my main Channel and on the far right almost to the top where there is a tab that says about, click on that and scroll down toward the bottom you'll see help support my channel and click on that it will take you to the donation section of PayPal...$50 for 30 minute call so include your number. Text or email me pictures of what you have going on, that will move the discussion a little faster

The only thing I can suggest is go to a stand-alone tile store, visit the guy at the loading dock area where contractor's buy material from, that guy will know exactly who does what by virtue of what they buy and the shop talk they have.

@@StarrTile Excellent suggestion, thank you!

NO! Mine is 1 1/2 inch...Read my comment above.

@@btomas225 does it matter if the p-trap is at the shower pan drain or right before the main line, p-trap into the main line with the1.5" run from the drain.

It was last spring '18 when I did this video

Yes you can use Kerdi, check my last video I posted Friday... there is a time and a place for everything

The Battle by DJ Quads. Used the Shazam app to find it.

On concrete slabs the P-trap is always below grade, it could be anywhere from 8 in to a foot or more in the dirt

Yes to last part..drain was too high

Hopefully you can move the pipe enough to level it. Keep it wedged in place and fill around it with concrete to keep it set.

Pitch to drain at least 1/4 inch per foot if not more

Yes they are, a telescopic magnet I used

Jackhammer all day....a grinder won't do much. But a big concrete cutter will, cut down into 2x2 foot sections and jackhammering will be easier. I'm not into prefab pans but that's just me

@@StarrTile I see and if you would use a pan which one would recommend which doesn't require any build up support?

Anybody watching will *NOT* be digging 3feet to 5feet looking for a trap where it T's into the main so they can be sure they are "code". You know and I know that a shower uses way less water than a tub dumps 4 gpm or more as opposed to the shower that exists now @ 1.5 or 2 maybe without a restrictor, so drainage will def not be an issue...but book soldiers will always freak out regardless...and many trades cross over and started doing plumbing in 1987 and tile only since 1999 plus I've seen plumbers set liners wrong, set backerboard wrong, even attempt tiling a shower and did crappy work. I'm responsible for the entirety of my work, my customers never need to track down 3 different ppl if anything goes wrong and over 20 years later nothing ever has 👌🏻💯

@@StarrTile 3 feet? Really? Obviously you have never taken the time to find one of those traps. You think the plumber is going to set a trap 3 feet deep so he can dig it out when its time to set the tub. There is a 2 inch elbow down there that comes up to an appropriate depth a 2x1 1/2x 1 1/2 Sanitary Tee with the vent off the top and the trap off the branch. I know for a fact a 1 1/2 trap can handle the volume. The problems are; 1.) that you create a bottle neck in the pipe where every little bit of hair and debris will hang up on, 2.) you have added extra non drainage offsets that make it super hard to snake when that undersized line clogs. 3.) Its just laziness and bad info your spreading as if you know what your talking about. I have to snake tile guys plumbing jobs often and it makes my life harder and the home owners bill larger because of the extra time it takes to get past that stupid bottle neck and through the non drainage fittings. Next time take a little time dig down an extra six inches and do it right or don't post it or expect to be confronted on the hack job.

@@StarrTile Not to mention the guy glued the pipe with primer only it looks like from the way the fittings popped apart but you trust that first 45 above the trap?

Thank you

@Ryan Dugger said, "2" trap is plumbing code for a shower in every code in the USA." Not so. While the UPC does require 2", the IPC (& thus the IRC) allows 1-1/2" if the total shower head/bodyspray water flow is less than 5.7gpm. See IPC Table 709.1. Of course different localities may amend this. Also, later in the video, you'll see that a proper DWV 45 was used.

Nothing you can do but try to cut out the bad colored grout & re-grout.

Use less water when mixing and wiping up. Dry mix the grout first too

Hmmmm... good question, and beyond my pay grade, I don't mess with tension wires in concrete