Siding a House By Yourself 

Wow, That is very impressive to do 3 houses a summer. He must have been a hard working to get that all done by himself!

Building the house is labor intensive lmao

@@pleasetrylater6832 More like a house every 6 weeks based on the summer lengths in Ohio. When he started in 1970 a 1000 square foot house was acceptable. When he stopped building in the early 2000's They were 1500 sq feet mostly. His niche was building starter homes for young couples that were affordable. He could sell them cheaper by installing much lower end (cheaper) kitchen cabinets and counters. These were items they could upgrade later as their income increased. Just like some car companies make corvettes for the wealthier, others make Honda civics. My dad made lower end priced homes for people starting out. My dad built about 60 houses over that time. I realize the math does not work out from 1970 to 2005 as there were real-estate dry spells where he had to have a heating furnace service business to make ends meet.

Thanks, I'm glad you found it helpful!

That's the first ive seen lp spliced that way, they make a splice to cover the seams. Ive seen concrete board done like that tho!

That's not how you do seams. Hope you watched another video

LP makes joint clips to hide your joints

Thanks Jim for watching and commenting, I really appreciate it!

Thanks, I appreciate the kind words!

@@chaddiy3512 you're welcome 🙂

Glad it was helpful!

The clamps a re for sure the way to go...even if you have help on your siding project!

Glad you enjoyed the video...the siding was pretty easy to do, this was my first time doing siding and 2 years later now it still is looking like new!

Yeah, Menards is my go to over Home Depot and Lowes. And yes, always a good idea to paint the cut edges. It slows the process down a little, but well worth it!

Menards is great

True craftsmanship standards Always prime/paint all 6 sides before reinstalling.

@@chaddiy3512 what does the paint do to the cut edges, help with moisture resistant?

Glad you liked it Shannon Lane, hopefully it helps in your future!

Thanks for watching!

Ha, thanks!...got to use what you have!!

Thanks, and yes...it is pretty easy!

Glad I could help!

Thanks...I appreciate the comment!

Thanks for the comment and I'm glad you learned something!

Glad you enjoyed it Nancy!

Nancy E. .

Thanks Dean...the clamps are the way to go!

Glad you enjoyed it Zach!

Thanks Greg, to me...marking the studs is a must so you don't have to nail blindly. Thanks for watching!

Lol the only one huh

Thank you very much!

That is why youtube is so great!

Thanks metersocket00 for watching!

I appreciate the kind words, and thanks for subscribing!

Hello Shari, glad my video can help. It really is a pretty easy job with the clamps. Good luck on your project!

I would advise you to rethink before installing siding yourself especially if you've never done it before. There is not one single video on youtube that shows you how to install it correctly including this guy's. Theyre all hacks. There are already numerous mistakes and this is just one wall. To do it right is more involved than most people think. And if installed incorrectly it will create mold, rot and cause damage to your framing all of which are costly to fix and will compound quickly in an are with a lot of moisture. If you still decide to do it yourself I would recommend you use the best materials available like for housewrap use Hydrogap drainable wrap and for caulking use Quad Max it stays flexible and wont crack and let water in like the cheap stuff. between the trim and the window leave about a 1/4"-3/8" gap and stuff foam backer rod 3/8" deep and fill with caulking. Dont butt the trim up to the window frame like this guy did, it leaves barely any room for caulking. This is really important step because vinyl windows expand and contract and it you have a tiny bead of cheap caulk it will crack and let water in and deteriorate everything a lot faster. VS a 3/8x3/8" bead of high quality caulk which will easily be able to expand and contract providing years of trouble free service. Also preprime and precaulk the cuts on the trim where they butt up to each other. These steps are critical in achieving a solid installation that will last many years trouble free. Flashing above horizontal protrusions like window trim and such is also crucial. If you have any questions please feel free to ask Ive worked many years for siding company in Oregon that doesnt take shortcuts like most people.

Also dont use housewrap at the joints like he did. It is not UV rated for very long and will deteriorate eventually. Instead use 5x7 metal flashing you can pick up a pack of 100 for like 25 bucks at a siding supplier. Caulking the joints is optional but not recommended. instead install with moderate contact or leave 1/16" gap

I also own a home like this. Original siding is cedar, with the tar wrap. Really would like to redo it. Love the look, but it is in bad shape.

@@senyashchukin391 I didn't read your whole post but I agree. This guy had no business posting this video. Siding is a trade that takes years to learn, it's an art, not to mention its THEE waterproofing for your house. So "No" you can't "Do It Yourself" and its not cheap. But go ahead, roll the dice, and see if you can keep your house 100% waterproof for the next 30 years. One wrong move could cost you 10,20,$40,000 down the road or more....just pay somebody...

Thanks for the comment Barry, and glad the clamps are on your radar now...They make all the difference!

Thanks!

Thanks!

Hello Greg, great point on the thicker trim! When I did this project I didn't know they made the 5/4. Also the clamps can be a little tricky. I found that I couldn't clamp them down tight, or else the siding would fall through the back of them. Overall, they did work very well I thought. Thanks for the comment!

@@chaddiy3512 Yup...I've had them fall through the back too, but this is the best solo solution I've found.

Thanks for watching Richard, and good luck on your second building!

Glad you liked it!

Thanks Mike, Glad you liked it!

The clamps really do make it so much easier!

What's the name of the clamp?

Thanks, I appreciate it!

Glad I could help!

Upload a video

Just in the middle of doing this exact job myself

Thanks Don!

Thanks!

Thanks!

Glad you enjoyed it!

Thanks Jason, hopefully it can help others trying to do their own siding.

Thanks Ricardo! yeah, there is always a lot of hate on youtube...very true about the haters never having any videos of their own!

Thanks! and here is the affiliate link for the nailer I used amzn.to/2H8GeiI Also, I believe I used 2 inch nails from the same brand as the nailer.

You made that look sooo easy!!!

My pleasure!

Thank you very much!

Thanks!

Glad it helped!

I thought I was seeing things. He said "siding" nailer. But don't mistake my comment, I've done that. I just thought he actually had one. 😅😅😅

Hey, thanks for sharing that advice. Hopefully everyone will read it that are trying to learn how to side thier house!

Thanks Brian!

Thanks for watching!

Thanks Marcelo!

Thanks!

Thanks! Here is a link to the clamps I used! amzn.to/2DCbOoA (affiliate link)

No problem, glad you enjoyed it!

Thanks a lot!

Thank you very much!

Thanks! If you look at the top comment it has the link to the clamps. Thanks for watching!

Thanks!

Thanks Charles. The trim is L.P. smartside 1 by 4s. Easy to work with and cuts easily!

Hello Sergio, you only need to nail the top. The boards are very stiff so the wind will not lift them. Good luck!

Thanks Nathan, I appreciate that!

Thanks Ron!

Thanks, you too!

Hello LivingCountry, I lined up the first row of siding with the bottom of the OSB sheathing. This was new construction on a level concrete slab. As long as I lined it up the same on each wall they all pretty much matched. There is trim on the corners so it really isn't noticeable if the siding is a 1/4 inch higher or lower on one wall compared to the other...Hope that helps!

Thank you so much!

Thanks!

Hello Aj, I just used a regular siding nailer and .090 nails. Had no problems with that size nail holding well. To do the .113 nails I think you would have to use a framing nailer. Good luck on your siding!

Good luck! It really isn't that hard. The synthetic fabric was just extra roof underlayment I had laying around. You could use metal flashing as well. Just anything to stop water getting in the seems if the caulk begins to fail.

@@chaddiy3512 okay! Im not familiar with metal flashing and the closest my brain will allow me to think of is metal paste for soldering. And Im just being honest and trying to make ya chuckle. So, again my male thinking part of my brain doesnt recall ever hearing of a metal flashing procedure before now. So i suppose I could look it up on you tube. Lol! Although I would love to Thank you for replying its very nice of you. Mostly because I dont ask my neighbors and try not to rely on somebody elses husband brother ect. To figure these things out. I like to learn and I like to be a perfectionist at everything I do. (Unfortunately) So, any and all you can tip me off with is greatly appreciated and I wasnt able to yet attemp my siding venture due to weather conditions here in Mt. This weekend. But, hopefully soon. Again, thank you so very very much.

Hello Jack, I didn't use any flashing because I was building off a concrete slab so it doesn't matter if it got wet. If you are getting any flooding it sounds like it might be a grading problem with the ground around your garage.

The clamps will be a huge help for you...good luck!

where did you got those clamps..home depo or Lowe's????

Use a nail the to hold the siding

That’s probably the easiest cheapest way if you don’t have a helper. Just fill the holes when your done. I used clamps but I had to modify them because my siding is the old 12” stuff.

Good question. I did one side at a time on dry days, but I see half sided houses all the time that get rained on so I'm guessing it isn't a big deal and everything drys out l.

Thanks for the comment and the tips Terry. All the issues you ran into are the reason I used LP Smartside instead of cement board. The LP cuts just like wood. They both look great once installed though!

Hi Rob, I used 7 inch LP with a little over 5 inch exposure. Sorry, I can't remember what Gray I used...My wife picked it out of course! good luck with your project!

Thanks!

Love the story! And good idea naming them Kenny!

Lol was that the name of the helper too that u let go

That's what I was wondering as well!

amazon

Hello, what I do is measure the distance to the soffits when I have 3 rows left. This way if it looks like the last piece will only be an inch for example, I can just raise the reveal about 1/4 inch each on the last 3 rows and the last piece will fit perfect!

Ahh.. ok cool! Did you do wood soffits?

Yep, I did do wood soffits

They are called gecko clamps, they are completely adjustable to leave any size overlap you want. They really work great!

@@chaddiy3512 Yes I looked at them, but id still do a story stick so I know where my laps tops land on a wall so I don't have to cut out for a window and land on it without adjustment or trimming one of them. Thats what they showed on this old house. I like the trim part you put on the outlet box but look above I made a point about flashing. My house is over 25 years old you really can tell when flashing wasnt done right or poor techniques were used when it was built. Its smart to look at things and why they failed then get at idea how to make them better with just a little extra work. My house has the Abit siding on it. The remedy by the manufacture was to paint it. Trust me ive seen houses by me that got plenty of paint on them and still look like crap. It was a piss poor product. Basically cardboard sheets. Paints only as good as the substrate under it. Back when my house was built they didn't use Typar and the sheting is OSB. Ive got plenty of water damaged wood. Ive seen it on sevral houses. I dont even like treated wood for trim work. The PVC holds up a lot better. It just cost more. But that also depends on what profile you use 2x or 1x Thanks that is a pretty cool tool ill have to buy a pair when I replace my lap siding. You think somone would come out with a system for sheet goods that works just as good. Around here they started to lap the sheet goods insted of using z flashing between sheets with a trim board over them it looks a lot nicer. I say this becuse my house is 2 story with walk out basment so ive got areas 3 and 4 sheets up 10x4 or 9x4

Thanks GEM TWIZM!

Hello, I believe the dewalt attachment is for vinyl siding only, so if that is what you are doing it should work. The siding in this video is LP Smartside, so you would want a dedicated siding nailer for that...good luck!