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SIGLENT Power Supply Repair SPD3303X-E: 0-30v Powers itself off at random. 

RFMAN RFMAN
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Here we repair this Siglent SPD3303X-E: PSU to component level, this one has some tricks up its sleeve a rare fault indeed, we track down to a defective component only to find that its the only fault & strange problems arise with another component which also needs replacement after extensive tests reveal its functional but only at certain temperatures until the component becomes hot under normal operating conditions which then make the component fail unexpectedly.

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23 окт 2022

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Комментарии : 16   
@jimwolsiffer4397
@jimwolsiffer4397 Год назад
I WOULD HAVE MEASURED THE current at the rectifier, then installed something better suited to match. Of course you could use the existing long leads now to fix a new rectifier inside or to the chassis and run leads to those long legs ( after cutting off the replacement rectifier). Either way a great explanation and tutorial on methodical trouble shooting. Really enjoy your videos!
@TossACoinToYourWitcher
@TossACoinToYourWitcher Год назад
I would have put 105c caps next to the a rectifier in your configuration but i get digging in the parts bin is a pain. Best scenario, I would have added a heat sink to it to move the heat away from the caps and the board so they don't soak the heat from their leads into the caps if i used 85c caps. That would be best for longevity sake. I may add a heat sink at least mine knowing this is a possible failure point. I agree they should have added more space between the caps and the rectifier if they knew that puppy got that hot. Yes bad design. Thanks for the video.
@ivanr5315
@ivanr5315 Год назад
I have acquired a RSPD3303C and I wished I had looked at your video before spending the entire evening fault finding an identical issue. The PSU is essentially identical inside bar the screen. System rebooting randomly and going into an inoperable state. When the issue was present the input to the voltage regulator was 3V dc instead of 5V. Checked the caps. In the end I noticed a low voltage on the output of the bridge. Replaced the bridge with one of similar specs but 4A rating. The original rectifier is a 2A 2W10 and is in my opinion not up to the job. Thanks for sharing
@t1d100
@t1d100 Год назад
Nice find of the fault and its repair.
@marka1986
@marka1986 Год назад
Nice kitty too, he's your tech assistant.
@drdomestos
@drdomestos 5 месяцев назад
That looks like a design flaw to me; probably driven by cost constraints. If I owned one of those power supplies I think I would pimp it and replace that bridge rectifier with a larger chassis mount one. It would likely stop the smoothing caps from getting so warm and extend their lifespan too.
@marka1986
@marka1986 Год назад
82c about 180 deg f. Quite hot. A little too hot for comfort in my opinion......and add a few more degrees once the covers are on.
@supyrow
@supyrow Год назад
Well done
@wakkowarner7391
@wakkowarner7391 Год назад
There's no mistaking the smell of electrolyte leaking from a cap.
@stevec5000
@stevec5000 5 месяцев назад
I wish he had changed the rectifier an hour earlier! We have one that doesn't light up at all! Does anyone have any troubleshooting tips?
@rfmanrfman4536
@rfmanrfman4536 5 месяцев назад
Hi There, Well if it doesnt light up at all what i would do is start at basics being, to varify if its just a backlight usse check to see if the output still works & the buttons light up when pressed, if they do it looks likely its a LCD backlight ussue so read on, check all the fuses are ok. From there connect an ohm meter across the mains plug Live & Nutural pins (with the unit unplugged of course) press in the power button & should read from open circuit to a lowish hundreds of ohms resistance with the power button pressed in, all this non invasive test does is to confirm the fuses, cord, switch, & primary coil of transformer are in circuit. Obviouly under this test if you can only read open curcuit then there is a break somewhere. Secondly if all that works out you can measure across the rectifier diodes / smooting capacitors on the main PCB towards the rear with the heatsiks on it. This may be difficult due to the cramp space, but the object here is to confirm if there is DC voltage on the smoothing caps. Thirdly the little bridge rectifier as in the video that powers up the front board this supplies one of the voltage regulators which you can measure, using the heatsink TAB as the ground reference for your meter, also the regulator IC runs fairly hot if its getting & giving out a supply, also there is a single diode near the this on the top edge of the PCB which supplies a yellow / orange coloured thermal fuse next to it, this also supplies many circuits so check. You will be able to see the small connector suplying the board with a connector near the bridge rectifier this supplies about 2x 6v AC supplies to this board to supply the little bridge & the single diode. Note the -ve (0v) line reference for measurments here is isolated from the (ov) on the main board / high current supply outout as there are different secondary coils on the transformer. The little bridge rec as per the video supplied other voltage regulators on the PCB near the processor chip, as identified in the video, also there is a Buck circuit / charge pump located near the processor & display connector which supples high voltage to the LCD back light. Check components round there. the surface mount inductors should give a dirty ringing sound when the Buck is working it sounds like low volume white noise.
@engjds
@engjds 4 месяца назад
Quality good, BUT 1:52 for a repair is a bit excessive, can you decrease videos like this to about 30 mins? just the main points we need to know, for instance most people repairing will know there is 4 diodes in a bridge rectifier. But thanks for publishing, this fault is very common it seems looking through the amazon reviews on the 1 star ratings (Always go on the 1 stars not the 5 which are often manipulated!). If I was repairing this, based on dried up caps, hot bridge in close proximity, I would have just slapped in a bigger bridge, replaced caps and called it a day, not wasted 2 cans of air...and an hours analysis, just a thought). As for Siglent...well those engineers are really cutting it fine with current handling and penny pinching, tip for new players, always exceed power or current ratings by 1/3 extra, and never put potentially hot components next to electrolytics!
@gordselectronicshobby3853
@gordselectronicshobby3853 Год назад
Did Siglent fix the problem because I bought one a few weeks ago. I do not want to break the seal to investigate because it would void the warranty.
@rfmanrfman4536
@rfmanrfman4536 Год назад
Well TBH i do not know if Siglent did change the design, i would not worry about it as it may take many years for this issue to show, i don't think its a common problem because there are not any other videos on youtube about it so it may be an issue to only a small number of supplies & could be down to a bad batch of bridge rectifiers that affected only a small number of supplies that may have been returned under warranty. At least you know how to fix should it happen.
@ivanr5315
@ivanr5315 Год назад
I have two SPD3303C and both have the small rectifier but one has a small heat sinks glued to it. This version with the heat sinks has experienced the problem
@ezemelano
@ezemelano Год назад
This is the Service Manual for SiGLENT SPD3303C that is very similar to this. siglentna.com/wp-content/uploads/dlm_uploads/2019/08/SPD3303C-Service-Mannual.pdf
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