Eccentric Smithy grow up, don’t put others down just because you have the unfortunate task of getting up and look yourself in the mirror everyday. It’s actually repulsive if you don’t like her videos don’t watch them, thousands of people have subscribed so they can watch her content and you’ll never guess what! Her content contains her voice.
Great video, I use this lens on the 5d3 with absolutely no issues. In fact I ran a test and pit it against my 24-70mm f2.8 ii at 35mm with same settings. Sigma in my opinion was the winner, much more pleasing to my eye.
I would love to see a canon 35mm 1.4 vs sigma 35mm 1.4 ART video! Love your videos and photos! Would also like to see more Lr tutorials from you. If you ever wanted to do a class or something on your edit method and style I would SO pay for that. Your editing style is AMAZING and I really want to learn it!
I've been using this lens almost exclusively for the last 3 years. I've gotten good results, but combined with the updated eye-autofocus on my EOS R, my experience with the lens has drastically improved.
Thanks for sharing! I’d been debating getting this lens for my RP but it was hard to find real world comments on the sigma / R series combo to see if it has focus issues like it does on the SLRs.
@@jhrace2 Mirrorless cameras don't have back or front focus issues like DSLRs since the focus plane is in the same place as the AF system, the sensor. Lenses in mirrorless can be faster or slower than others, but the success rate of photos of still subjects (like portraiture or fashion) is 100% most of the time (except when the AF can't identify the subject -low light levels-). The lens is also listed officialy as compatible with the EOS R by Sigma.
I'm curious your results if you were using live mode. When I was using a 5D4, live mode was way more reliable with autofocus, regardless of lens. I am an R and R5 user now, so I haven't had any issues. Great job with your videos. I like videos where it's not just talking head, look at me, but rather look at my work.
I would definitely like a comparison between the 2 lenses. I have been wanting a 35 1.4 since I first started taking photography seriously as a career but I am not in the financial position to drop $1600 on the canon version. Even on KEH for a gently used one they are still $1400-$1500, so I opted for the Sigma 35 after doing almost a year’s worth of research. Im happy with my purchase but would still like a side by side comparison. Its the geek in me, lol.
This is the first video I’ve seen of yours so I don’t know if you’ve used this model before but if you didn’t, I like how good you are at getting her to relax it shows in your photos
I realize that this is not a new vid, but it still is extremely helpful! I value your opinion and purchased one of these lenses. Thanks and keep up the good work!
I have both 24 and 35 Art lenses, but with my Canon 6D half of the pictures were back-focussed, but when switched to my new Sony a7 iii everything is great, all pictures are perfect focus!
Great video Julia❤. My Nikon mount Sigma 35 1.4 AF missed a lot. Then I bought Sigma's USB dock for calibration and after calibration AF works perfect.
Hi Julia. I enjoy our videos. Always fresh to see another Australian on youtube. Usually thry are all from the US. Do you ever do landscape or just portraits?
I know a lot of people keep mentioning mirrorless but your style and comfort is with DSLR. I have both Sony A7iii and the Canon Mark IV. What I found to get more accurate focus on the Canon is to use spot focus and use your small joystick wheel to control the spot focus. I aim for the eye and shoot. Focus has been more accurate now with my Canon.
I'm having such a hard time deciding whether I should get this lens or not! When it works properly it seems to be a great lens, but that missed focus is just so frustrating!
Just got the canon 35mm 1.4 mk2,wow what a lens.Love these portraits and i would use mine for event portraits.Im finding its such a versatile lens too,its great for wide and close ups too,which i absolutely love.Great video julia.
Yeah for sure - mirrorless cameras use phase and contrast AF on the sensor unlike DSLRs which reflect light through the mirror to a separate AF sensor, so back/front focusing issues don't exist in mirrorless.
Use the Sigma USB Dock to calibrate the lens. I did and the problems with Sigma lenses are gone. BTW: Canon, Nikon and all other manufacturers struggle with missed focus. Sometimes you buy "a native" lens and there is a lot of bf/ff... thus you need to calibrate a combo of body&lens. The advantage of Simga and Tamron is that they both provide docks to calibrate lenses (no need to send equipment to calibrate).
Imagine being a photographer 30 years ago when you had to focus yourself. Sheeesh. All jokes aside i own and love this lens on my 5dmk2. I feel like QC is lacking because I've had many sigma lenses and they seem hit or miss within same model with AF. They are great for the money and I actually kept an old ex 50 1.4 for quite a while just because it produced great looking photos as long as you didn't need auto focus lol. It's sold now but the 35 art pretty much lives on my camera. I don't have money for new L glass hence the 5dmk2 I've had for 10 years.
Hi~ I just wanna share you can try set your auto focus to Al servo & use a single focus point aimed on the model face/eye Lastly, set to silent burst mode If the model is moving slowly Or set to high burst if model is walking towards you. This might change your habits for shooting a little bit but it helps you get a higher chance for focused shot 😋✌🏻
I tested it, chose the 24 and 50 art. But now I have the Tamron, amazing lens! Whatever the brand, lenses on a DSLR should be calibrated out of the box, it's a common issue with OVF (there's a reason Canon and Nikon add an AF fine-tune, it even happens with their own lenses).
Yes I have a few videos I made about it in the past when I first started using Sony, but after a year of using the 7iii I think it's time for an update!
@@juliatrotti Yes! Please, I shoot canon but want to make the move to Sony 7iii. Just not sure if i should get the Mark 5d iv or the sony 7iii. Any input would be great.
Buy the sigma usb dock to calibrate the lenses, I recently bought the 35mm and was having plenty of focusing issues until I bought the usb dock and fixed the front and back focusing. Honestly worth the money to spend on the dock, stopped having issues since then!
You have to calibrate your lens every time you use it for the first time, or when you haven't used it for a while. I do that with my Sigma 35mm Art and i get sharp photos with no back focus issues. I do that even with my Canon 85mm, that starts to back focus from time to time.
@@paultrincaaa You have to do that in the Canon menu, where it says Autofocus Micro Adjust... Search on youtube for a tutorial, it's not so dificult and it really works. I don't have the Sigma Dock, the Canon built-in option is enough for me.
I just bought this lens 2 weeks ago and I’ve been using it a lot. It feels like it gives really good colors. The one down side is it needs to be calibrated every once in while. I have been told that you should get it calibrated upon taking it out the box before use. I didn’t do this and I have had a good about of back focusing issues but I managed to work with it on my recent shoots. Im taking it to a local camera shop to have it calibrated tomorrow.
Ayaz Ahmad that was my first thought so then I found a full video of how to use the dock and calibrate the lens myself. After about 3 minutes I determined that was above my pay grade and i’d just pay the $35 to have the camera store do it in a hour. I thought all I would have to do is connect the doc to the computer and upload the current software and it would fix itself. According to that video that is not the case.
Haha how crazy! I was looking for exactly this lens portrait samples on Google and just now hopped into YT and your video was the first one!!! what are the odds? I think the safest bet with Sigma lenses is to use live view/mirrorless to avoid any front or backfocus images.
I agree, this lens would definitely be easier to use on mirrorless! Still not impossible with DSLRs I would personally just take extra photos to make sure I have some in focus :)
I was really Happy to find this, since I believe I have been one of those requesting it :) so Thank you for making this video. Glad you enjoyed the lens. I use it too on my 6D and luckily haven’t had any focusing issues. Always love the photos that comes out of it. :) have heard some of them need calibration.
@@juliatrotti first of all I would like to express my gratitude for your work and for your charm. Secondly, ask your expert opinion ... It seems to me that Sigma lenses work very strangely with shadows, making them flat, without smooth gradients. It seems to me that's why dark places fall into black. I think Canon lenses, for example, give a much more artistic result. What can you say about this? Thank you in advance :)
My main camera has been mirrorless for many years now 🙏 I like to use different cameras for my videos though. I will use this lens again eventually on a mirrorless body!
I would love to see a comparison of 35 1.4 from Canon vs 35 1.4 Sigma on a cropped camera too! You videos are so interesting and answer so many questions! Thank you!
This lens rarely focuses accurately on my 5DIV, it's better on my 6D for some reason. Tired firmware update, tried microfocus adjustment with no luck. I always just hire the Canon 35 1.4 for my paid jobs.
@@thisisfela I find the same - Liveview on my Mark IV is super accurate but I get heaps of missed focus through the viewfinder (on any lens though, not just Sigma)
This is a great lens but does need to be micro adjusted to the camera body to prevent the back focusing issues, now I have upgraded to the eos R I have very few focusing issues
When you use this 35mm Art or any of the Art lenses on a mirrorless camera like the EOS R you pretty much nail focus 100% No back/front focus issues at all.
Hi Julia, I love your photos! I'm Paulo, say Hi to Brazil haha! Let me know, are you able to focus on F1.4 the model in the same time she and you are walking is because you're using a 35mm?? Is it easier?? I mean, if you was using a 85mm for example, would you able to focus on the model walking with F1.4??
Hi Julia, I wish you would say what the location is, I have found a few by looking at google maps, my daughter lives in Sydney and i visit when I can and would to do a few shoots when in Sydney. Most of your beach ones seem to be east, Bondi and some beach locations around that area. I understand if you don't want to give exact locations. Absolutely love your work and your you tube channel is awesome. Do you also do any videos on you tube about your wedding photography as well?? Michelle xx 😀
As always great video Julia i love your work , you should try the cheap Tamron sp 35mm f1.8 vc , i think you will be surprised how sharp this lens is , i use it on my Canon 6d mk ll and i love it :-)
I like the quality of this lens. the only downside is, i didn't manage to calibrate it right.. no matter how many times i tried, so i just use it manually and it can become extremely difficult to shoot with on f/1.4. i have to use the viewfinder to zoom in and slowly go from there.. it takes more time but i can get the sharpest images from it
I've shot with this lens for about 2 years (on my 5DMKIV) and I too have back focus issue. Its a bummer because I absolutely love this lens but I often end up leaving in my bag while on shoots because its so hit or miss.
When I was shooting with my Canon 5D Mark IV the Sigma 35 F/1.4 Art was abysmal focusing - even after calibration and firmware updates. However, when I switched to Sony A7III, and now A7RIV and A9, this lens never misses focus. When it does, it’s because of an impossible situation or user error - usually the latter . Don’t get it twisted, I’m still a Canon shooter at heart, but I think Sigma has better engineered the lens software to work with the Sony focusing algorithms. Note however, that with the Sony, I switched to the FE version
Not sigma doing better for Sony, but because A7 /9 (or if u use Eos R) are mirrorless camera, they don't use an AF sensor and instead all AF are done on sensor. Therefore you will not get front/backfocus issue.
H4n Mil I think that’s a good point...though I think the greater reason is Sigma having access to Sony’s focus technology.....especially now that they will be producing truly native FE lenses, starting with the 35 F/1.2
great shots ......suggest A) try out the EOS R , eye focus almost as good as Sony ....B) try new Tamron 35mm 1.4 lens . Also, why do you not just use your Sony ?
I only use the center point to focus with sigma lenses and i rarely miss..without calibration without fine tuning they are all tack sharp out of the box on my nikon d850..have the 35 the 50 and the 135..the 135 is the sharpest..but i have noticed when i use other focus points especially the ones on the edges my hit rate declines drastically..
Hi Julia, thank you for the amount of great information you provide. I do have a question, which modus do you mostly shot in auto focus or manual focus? Thanks in advance and until the next video.
Question - If you shoot wide open at an f1.4 aperture in bright daylight... the shutter speed hits the 1/8000 limit very easily! (clips, can't go any higher) with a Canon R6 or a Sony a7iv Electronic shutter limits also 1/8000. Do you use a ND filter to get around this issue? thanks With my Fujifilm X-T3 in MS + ME mode, it auto switches when needing above 1/8000 to ES mode up to 1/32,000 - thus never had this issue before!. On my Canon R6 if I choose iso 50 L (from 100) to help, this just blows out the highlights images look yuk!!!. I don't want to just raise the aperture to say f2.8 to stop this happening - Canon and Sony need faster Electronic shutter speeds... maybe a firmware fix?
Thanks for the review! I actually purchased the Sig 1.4Art based on your review and couple others. I'm actually gearing up for my 1st ever photo shoot with a person (vs object, lol). Portraits are not my thing but I'm trying to branch out. Do you set your cam for Spot meter mostly? I noticed that setting in your footage and I've heard that using Spot Meter is best for portraits. Also I noticed your ISO and Shutter changed often. Are you always in manual or did you switch to AV and let the cam handle the rest? Sorry for so many questions and thanks in advance!
I just purchased Sigma 35 mm 1.4 and I’m having a hard time with the settings of the camera as well as the lens is there a tutorial that you have that could help me with this
