Silver Soldered Boiler for 16mm Live Steam Locomotive 

With enough heat supplied it is

What doesn't mean that I am not impressed by the job he has done and (hopefully) still does

Just a point on soldering. We soldered hundreds of copper/brass assemblies in a work situation. Found natural gas and air torches very useful with a chance to adjust the flame to suit. Yes and we had wired on components and both ends to solder too.

The printer is very useful for all sorts of things like the 2 parts shown here.

Yes. I believe the stuff you are talking about is sodium bisulphate. It's a Ph buffer. I use it for silver jewellery work. Desert spoon in a pint of water. Heat it up in an old electric crock pot. Works well and a small bucket of the stuff will last about six trillion years... Give or take. Martin Kyle over at model-engineer.co.uk explains that the dissassociative effect of Sodium bisulphate when added to water produces positive sodium ions, positive hydrogen ions and SO4 which acts as a mild solution of sulphuric acid but as sulphuric acid seems to be getting hard to get over there in the UK, sodium bisulphate might be a reasonable alternative.

I would not recommend a tig welder boiler for one thing it will not comply with model boiler regs if you want a certificate. The joints would not be neat like silver solder.

@@myfordboy Don't know what to say, we have a 7" Black Five boiler that is tig seam welded in copper. I'll go look at the CE PED chart for SEP bar/litre demarkation.

I've made larger ones in the past. Boiler 24" long and 5 1/2" diameter.

Nothing wrong with the torch. It has a trigger so i can control the flame size and releasing it just leaves a pilot light.

@@myfordboy Oh, I see now! Thank you for responding. You are an excellent Craftsman and I look forward to all your videos.

Yes it's the same siervert set. Great torch. The large burner is rated at 84 kw. I am using a 13 kg bottle and don't have a problem with it freezing. One thing you could try is put the bottle in a bowl of hot water.

You would never make a model boiler like that. Flux is essential and a large torch is needed to heat the copper. local heating is no good.

@@myfordboy definitely not essential for copper to copper. With a finer welding tip you can put much more heat into a smaller more workable area rather having the whole thing heat up over a longer period of time, which also burns most of your flux off anyway.

@@jordankerr1377 I have to disagree. What I am showing is the standard way model boilers are made. Have you ever made one?

@@myfordboy I have not made one but would love to after watching your videos. I am a refrigeration mechanic and weld copper to copper that is rated to 600psi, without using flux, every day. I’m not trying to say what you’re doing is wrong, because it clearly works!

@@jordankerr1377 Please don't make a boiler that way.

I have a sievert set which I highly recommend but you may not want to spend as much. If you can i would go for the same torch and choose a burner size to suit your needs.I would suggest a torch that runs off a seperate propane cylinder.

This tube came from www.nogginend.com

@Ronald Farley Standard copper plumbing pipe isn't nearly this thick - looking at 1:12, the wall thickness looks to be around maybe 2 to 2.5mm. Plumbing pipe of that size is only 1-1.5mm wall.

The tube is 16 swg, about 1/16" thick. I would have prefered 18 or 20swg but these sizes don't seem available anymore.

Probably the light. Solder melts at 640C

I am still working on it, I will upload more videos later. i had an issue with the burner but I think I have it sorted now.

Easyflow2

This video covered the boiler. Have a look at my traction engine series for details of boiler fittings ru-vid.com/group/PLHUJDLlTM_9V0YKBU8_skP_g0QHlW7j1s

I am using Easyflow solder, 42%, old stock cadmium bearing flows well.

No it did not go out it has a trigger control that shuts off the burner when I want and leaves a pilot light burning. This is not a cheap hand held torch but a professional propane fueled one. You would never silver solder a boiler like this with a butane mini totch. Not enough heat.

It's complete and working but sorry i have not made the final video yet.

@@myfordboy Well that's good news! Thank you. Looking forward to the vid whenever you get around to it.

You could do it that way.

Beating copper over a former is easier than it looks. The main thing is the annealing. Freshly annealed copper is a joy to work. As you work it, it will harden up a bit, but just anneal it again then carry on. From what I’ve seen, metal spinning looks easy when done by an expert but there’s a lot of danger there!

The plus were brass. The solder would be away from them so no danger of soldering in place. I do have a collection of rusty screws and fittings I use on other assemblies. If I want to stop solder flowing I use typist correction fluid, i.e. Tipex as a resist.

I would have used 100% infill. The non return valve is a car tyre valve.

@@myfordboy thank you for answering my questions.

It came from a fabric factory that closed down. I have had it probably 30 years.

This tube came from www.nogginend.com

132

Tube is 1 1/2 dia . Not my design, plans are here.www.16mm.org.uk/resources/drawings/locomotives/

Just found that site. Thanks!

This not my design. It is Wild Rose, plans are here www.16mm.org.uk/resources/drawings/locomotives/ Just got mine to steam test stage. Ask if you need help.

It's not finished yet. There is another video though ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-7sFdjT-6IZs.html

Sorry wrong link should be ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-EqrwkS9jXeo.html

I added this for sight glass.

@@myfordboy Do you have any more details of the improvement ?

unfortunalty this model is still unfinished but the idea for the water gauge can be seen at the end of this video for my traction engine model. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-SFESw-hP_xY.html

42%

Don’t be fooled by just looking at quoted temperatures. You need a lot of heat to get that mass of copper up to temperature. Mini torches can be handy for little fiddly things but a lot of copper is a big heat sink. Also, but often overlooked, is a hearth that contains that heat.

It’s surprising the pressure that these simple spray bottles create. We use them regularly for boiler top up while running.

There will be more. I have a short clip on Instagram #myfordboy

Next part plz🙏🙏

It makes no difference if you let the copper cool or quench it. It will still be soft.

@@myfordboy Aah, now I understand. I do not often work with copper parts, I often use aluminum, steel, brass and bronze. P.S. Sorry for my English ...

Because I want a realistic looking model not one that looks like it's made of plumbing fittings. They would not be available in this size anyway.

No, Hunslet.

@@myfordboy Nice!

www.16mm.org.uk/resources/drawings/locomotives/

@@myfordboy gracias

You can'y have done this yourself or you would know that silver soldering a boiler needs lots of heat to get the metal quickly up to the 640C temperature of the solder.

Yeah, just not that of the content provider, sadly. He's called the headless man by many a highly respected youtube content provider. Hey, I'm still subscribed as all his talents are magnificent. The silver solder technique is out of this world. Flow , flow, flow, flow. Woah!

Not like that. Pareidolia, seeing a face in the work. But I get the misunderstanding.

Might be a female with rough hands and big feet

Looked like MrPeanut for a second.

@nuttcorp - yesss! and it sort of looks like he's sporting an eye patch

You can'y have done this yourself or you would know that silver soldering a boiler needs lots of heat to get the metal quickly up to the 640C temperature of the solder.

Use Acetylene, more heat, better control, smaller tip.

I think he has one. What does he need -- a cell phone to stare at 24 hours a days and twiddle with Facebook?

Doing what you enjoy doing is a great life. Try it sometime 👍