My recommendation for basic silver coin stacking boils down to the top 3. Full disclosure: I live in New England, not too far from Canada. 1. Maple Leaf (edges out ASE due to anti-counterfeiting characteristics, lower expense, and latest anti-milk stain improvements) 2. American Silver Eagle (almost first due to its recognizability, but a very close second due to slightly higher counterfeiting risk) 3. Constitutional (1 half, 2 quarters, and 4 dimes equal one ounce of very nice, well-recognizable small denominations)
after starting my stack, I have come to realize that I have two objectives. wealth retention and collecting. So basically, I have two stacks. One stack I build and store and one I collect and display. I do this at a 80:20 ratio. 80 for wealth and 20 for collecting. I'm hoping the 15% of my disposable income to finance this endeavor will not be a bad decision in the long run. good, informative video. thank you.
Sounds like a solid strategy! Just stick with it and you will see your stack and collection grow! In the long run, I think any silver in your physical possession is a good financial decision. When the monetary reset occurs, all us silver stackers will be vindicated for our commitment to the precious metals. Stay strong!
Nelson, and there is nothing wrong with that, perhaps you can get a higher premium for your BU specimens! I just choose to not fuss with it because all I expect is spot. Anything I expect to get a premium for, you can bet I handle with gloves and might have them in individual capsules! Thanks for your comment!
Your top three are the same as mine. I like Perth Mint coins and Chinese Pandas because they add a numismatic value that seems to increase fairly quickly over a period of a few years.
agreed absolutely. there is a variety of ways to stack silver and a variety of options.you also have to take your time and do what best suits you and set your goals as high as you feel happy with.
I'm an American who's all in on Canadian bars and coins. Better security, lower premium and just as liquid and valued as ASE to both my LCS in my town. I think I happen to be close enough to canada to be comfortable with this decision, also I do stack constitutional silver.
That's good to know! I was led to believe differently. Fortunately I have Maples as well! I really like the fractional Libertads. I think they may be easier to use if I'm south of the border. My strategy is to always be ready to travel. Thus the reason for some of my choices to stack. Thanks for your comment!
Your "strategy" for surviving some kind of chaotic and potentially apocalyptic event is to be "ready to travel"? So "bug out", in other words. Explain to me how anyone has a better chance of surviving "traveling" and being "on the run" and "living off the land" than he or she does staying close to home where all of their assets are, where they're familiar with their surroundings, where presumably family or at least friends will be close by and where the quantity of resources they need to survive is MINIMIZED just by HUNKERING DOWN and LAYING LOW and not having to "trade" with people "out on the road" in order to survive. In particular I'd like to know why city dwellers would want to leave a city IF "bugging out" is the thing to do. You're in a place where there are tens or hundreds of thousands or millions of people and ungodly amounts of food and water and other necessities "distributed" widely in hundreds or thousands of individual businesses and homes and if everyone is panicked and running away or running around like chickens with their heads cut off, it should be pretty easy to wait out the immediate panic by STAYING IN ONE PLACE where you can hole up safely if not comfortably until the initial panic is over. There's a REASON lots of people under "forced evacuation orders" stay behind as long as possible and refuse to leave period. They're HOME and that's where they prefer to LIVE or DIE if that's what it comes to. Take hoards of people who live in cities BY CHOICE and usually with an attitude of superiority of intellect and social skills and general awareness of the world around them and panic them to the point they're "forced" to leave the city and you've got chaos and 99% of them will be killing each other before they hit the city limits. And any that have some expectation that their "country cousins" are going to step up and help them out just because they seem to be the "down to Earth" and "uncomplicated" and "God-fearing" types (translation: ignorant, dimwitted and trusting to a fault which is how most "city people" view"hicks" and "rednecks") and they'll be willing to "help out a stranger" when the shit hits the fan and all it will take is some SHINY METAL waved under the cornbread country noses to get them to open their hearts, homes, pantries and gun safes for somebody who lived in a city for years or decades and had access to all the resources in the world minutes away and apparently enough money to LIVE in a city and pay much higher living costs across the board and "STACKED SILVER" instead of SOMETHING WORTHWHILE AND USEFUL just MIGHT get a rude awakening when they "bug out" and start "walking the Earth" like its some Hollywood movie. Are they going to get the "Book of Eli" treatment where the "nice old couple" in the old farmhouse turn out to be cannibals? Probably not. Should they expect to be "one of the family" and to "buy" whatever they want or "need" with some shiny metal? Probably not.
DEEREMEYER1- First I want to apologize for taking so long to see this comment. I have no idea how I missed it but I want you to know that I did not ignore it but just discovered it now and will respond. I completely understand where your coming from and for most folks staying put is 100% the right answer...with some exceptions. Now understanding that we are talking about a SHTF scenario. If I already live in a rural area or at least 75 miles outside of a major metropolitan city. I would stay put! Build a small group of folks with the necessary skill sets to individually support the f group as a whole. Food, defense, water source, energy sources, ect. Now, if you are in a city or within the 75 mile radius, which represents roughly three days of walking, I would seek out another place to settle. Maybe with another family member or friend ect. Why, big cities will be the first to fall apart. Once there are any kind of shortages of water or food or lack of electricity, there will be complete chaos. Looting, killing, rioting. It happens every time and this would be no exception. There are too many people too close together for social control , even under Marshall Law, and when things get real bad folks will start walking out of the cities desperate for food water shelter and will do anything to get it. I believe that if you are at least a three days walk outside of a city,most of the folks won't make it that far or at least be in pretty bad shape by the time they get there and you should be able to fend them off! Especially if you organize into a group. My readiness to be able to travel is also based off my personal situation. I do have assets out side of the US. I currently live in Asia, have family and friends in the US but I also have a residence outside of the US so If things get real bad in the US, I have the option to relocate. I realize that my situation is not typical for most but it is my situation and this video expressed my plan and why I wanted to have a diversity of silver just in case. I do think that grocery store isles will be bare and we will be living off the land. I believe there will be an EMP situation which will render all electronics , transportation and communications unusable. If you haven't already, you might want to study up on it and how it effects just about everything we take for granted. No communication, no vehicles made after the 1970 will work which means no food or any other products will be able to be delivered to the cities to sustain such large populations. This subject is extremely complicated and I won't be able to explain it all in this comment section. I would be happy to discuss it via email if you would like. Thanks for the time it took you to express your comment.
Maple Leafs and Eagles may be easily recognized in Europe but for the price Britannia and Philharmonic is the cheapest choice, what you usually look at, when stacking silver. I believe that in case of use silver coins as payment, there will be not any problem in accepting any of the mentioned four coins.
Mint Builder Review - Gold and Silver with Bitcoin well if it'll ever be used as money an ounce is an ounce no matter what coin as long as it's trusted to be real. Maple leafs and philharmonikers are pretty much identical in price and the eagles and brittanias are both about a buck more in the Netherlands at least
I prefer the maple leafs for the following reasons: 1) Anti-counterfeiting features. You can reassure potential public buyers by explaining them and showing them 2) Lower premiums than Eagles. I want quality coins with low premiums. Maple Leafs do that the best IMO (Australian coins can be had at lower premiums, but I prefer the Maple leafs for ALL their features, combined). 3) Highest purity. A good feature to explain to a potential buyer. 4) I also like the new 10 oz coins -- they have ALL the advantages of the 1 oz. 5) Overall, these are fully as recognizable and liquid as Eagles are -- in the US. 6) The RCM claims special "anti-whiting" technology -- if that's important to you. Overall, the RCM seems to show the highest interest in applying cutting edge tech to their coins.
GetMeThere1- Maples are a very good choice for the foundation of any stack! Each point you described is worthy and legitimate! The reasons I chose Eagles over Maples is I am from America and figure the majority of transactions will be made in America and there would be an advantage to having a sovereign American coin that is recognized as legal tender in the country for which I reside. Also, the ASE's , in my opinion, have a slight advantage in recognition world wide! The Maples are really becoming well known in the world markets. The anti-counterfeiting measures are a big plus for sure! I also like that Maples are made in 10 oz coins! These are reasons why the Maple is my second choice for a bullion legal tender coin product. Thanks for your feedback!
hey man...... started stacking about six months ago I have been listening to a lot of videos and so forth to educate myself and I must tell you yours is the best, the most well-spoken and to the facts I very much enjoyed it thanks again
Great video... wise choices mainly for US. For Europe I would say 1. Philharmonic 2. Britannica 3. Pre 1967 Swiss Franken (83.5 - 90% Silver) then American Silver Eagles & Maple Leafs
Ah, ok, I don't really know much about the pre 67' Swiss Franken and its popularity but It seems logical that if your in Europe then the priority of selections would have to be adjusted. A lot of folks are telling me that the Britannia is preferred over the Philharmonic. All I know is what folks tell me and what I read. I guess either one and you would do ok! Thanks for your comment.
There are many kind of historical silver coins here in Europe, but the Swiss coins are the newest ones and for the use of payment can be similar to constitutional silver coins. They can be also the most recognizable. The other historical coins have usually some numismatic value added so they would be not really practical for use for simple payments. The preference of Britannia over Philharmonic can be in United Kingdom obviously, but in the middle of Europe that could be more Philharmonic... I would put them on the same level or prefer accordingly to the place where the person lives. I thank you for the video and for answering my comment.
Tex Martin - Thank you, everyone has their own strategy and preference and as long as you feel there is a solid market for your preferences when it comes time to liquidate then you should be good to go!
I agree with your assumptions for silver coins in the future! I agree with your choices too, however, I will not pay the premium required by dealers here in the UK for Libertads, so I replace them with Krugerrands, whose price has dramatically reduced, and is now the cheapest 1 oz coin here in Europe (IMHO it is also the most beautiful coin yet on the market)
Tristan - Sticking with the most affordable sovereign coins you can get your hand on is always a solid strategy. It is nice to see the Krugerrand price balancing back with the rest of the industry bullion standard.
In Germany Philhamoniks aren´t the best Choice. It results from a tax problem we have to pay 19% percent on EU minted Silver coins (which could be used als legal tender) and any silver stuff (silver bars), but only 7% tax for silver from foreign countrys (which could be used as legal tender). So you get 12% more silver for your bucks, if you don`t buy philis or generic Silver. So in Germany none EU bullions are wide spreaded and well known. I would accept your Maples ^^.
Tobay Bau- That is very interesting and also very unfortunate! I guess governments have to get their taxes and they certainly don't want you to invest in anything other than their dying fiat currency! So, you would say that the Maple would be the most readily accepted foreign bullion sovereign coin within the EU countries?
I would never get so personal about my silver, or LOVE it so much that I would pay too much for each piece because it's sooo beautiful. You repeated said in your video you're into this for the money but buying silver buy the ounce and paying a premium over spot so many times is like buying pre-packaged steak by the bite. What you are saying and what you are doing seem to be two different things. Large Silver bars is what I buy because I am doing what you say you want to do. With the exception of a $100 face value bag of 90% pre 1965 silver coins. I pay spot 1 time for each 25 to 100 oz's and I'm done with premiums. I don't go back and look at the beauty of each bird or Panda on each piece of silver I own and then lie to everyone that I won't care that when the price goes high enough it won't bother me when I make a killing when I sell it all. It's great to stack, but be honest with yourself. You're hooked on the pretty.
Hey Jim, this vid is one in a series talking about my top 5 of each category of bullion. I discuss each category separately to maintain focus on that subject. This video was specifically about only the "coins" I stack! I have other vids on my generic bullion and even the bullion I will be flipping. Buying weight in bars is by and far the most economical way to purchase bullion. No question at all! The reason I choose not to stack bars is because I don't feel confident that I can find buyers when it comes time to execute my exit strategy. If I had a buyer locked in that I knew I could sell all my bars to in a single transaction, I would be buying bars in a heart beat! I just don't have such a market source. I feel that the most liquid-able bullion for me is the ASE. Yes, I do pay a premium but I feel that when it comes time to sell my stack I have the market to do so. Additionally, I am anticipating that by the time I am ready to sell the stack, the spot price will be far above any premiums paid. My stack is for wealth retention not necessarily profit. But.........if spot happens to be $50 an ounce when I sell...... well......I won't complain :-) Thanks for your comment and your perspective!
Great video with great insights! People fuss over the high premiums when dealing with American Eagles, but it is my experience you get those premiums back when you sell them. This is a no brainer!
bgs9man- I believe so as well! We have to be mindful that when it does come time to liquidate, everyone will be liquidating as well. It will no longer be a buyers market. Once dealers and distributors get saturated with silver stock, I believe they will slow down buying which I believe means that generic and "less desirable" forms of bullion may not be readily wanted. Of all options, I feel the ASE's will have the greatest demand in a sellers market economy. Just my two cents! Thanks for your comment.
That was a very good presentation. Your ideas make a lot of sense. While I realize privately issued silver is much cheaper to purchase, I worry about their liquidity. I tend to stick with government issued/backed silver releases. In a perfect world silver would just be bullion and not numismatic. I don't think mintages should matter honestly when it comes to bullion. Why would one buy a 1996 ASE when the 2017 ASE is identical in every way except the date? Slabbed and proof bullion are NOT worth my time or money. I personally feel slabbed bullion is pointless. For what you pay for a 1 oz proof bullion coin you could buy 2-3 oz of silver! Just my two cents there....
That is all very true for stacker like you and me who stack for wealth retention but there are other types of stacker's with a very different strategy. They do buy the 1996 ASE because they know they have a market to sell it for more than they paid for it! Supply and demand drives this kind of flipping stacker. You and I would never buy that over inflated 96 ASE but there are collectors out there who want to complete a collection or other flippers that feel they can sell it for a profit! It's all about your goals and strategies to achieve your end state as a stacker. I appreciate your comment David and thanks for watching!
My LCD buys and sells all years of ASE's and SML's at the same price. Spot to buy and spot +10% to sell. So I like getting the early ones. BTW, David. all coins, rounds, medals and bars fall under the category of numismatic.
Literally just saw this video right now. Your top 3 are the same as I have chosen as well. Excellent video brother and I look forward to the upcoming package.
very well done my friend, couldn't agree more. i really like the inclusion of the 90% junk silver, i have always put that in my top 3 for running silver! And Phil's, who doesn't love the beauty of a phil! Keep it up my friend, always enjoyable!
Appreciate that! I'm a very conservative stacker! Nothing too crazy or too risky. Problem is that I'm starting to see opportunities for short and mid term profits......which means more risk but more reward!
I've thought and continue to think about adding junk AG to my stack, but as of now don't have any and am leaning against it. So much time has now passed since the 60's that average Americans have no idea that 90%AG coins ever existed and will be reluctant to accept them, thinking that they are being scammed. If I'll need smaller denomination AG for bartering, I'll either carry with me a pair of metal cutters to clip off a piece of some round or melt some rounds into small bars or shot.
I understand what you mean John. My concern is that the average citizen who knows very little about silver will not know how to confirm the cut piece of silver or the bar you make is real silver but with a quick check of coin history they can be assured that the pre-65 coinage is indeed 90% and something of value. You know, silver is silver and I'm sure when it comes down to it, everyone will become very educated very fast if they have to barter with precious metals so I think we will be ok with shot or bars or even cut bullion! It all comes down to preference and what you think best will work for you in your situation. Bottom line, we have silver so we will have wealth and others will need it regardless of the form it is in! Thanks for your comment my friend!
SilverTorch66 I'm also thinking to invest in a PM verifier, just to be able to buy PMs from eBay, CL and private individuals. So the verifier could facilitate in a bartering situation too. But I see your point and I'll probably get some junk AG in the future anyway, if for no other reason than to diversify my stack. Thanks for the thoughtful comment and great videos!
I don't buy and stack silver of gold coins based on what I think will appreciate the most. I treat my coins like art. I buy the coins that appeal to me period.
I lived a short while in Salisbury/Newburyport my friend! It took me forever to break down and finally get a smart phone! I resisted and resisted! But finally relented and I'm so glad I did. Those things are amazing what they can do! So no more excuses.....time for your video upload :-)
It cost the same as far as the minting process for a one ounce or a quarter ounce (possibly even more for the smaller tooling and dies) The difference is the material.
No european outside austria will know what the philharmoniker is, unless they are interested in silver. I think the silver eagle or the maple leaf is more recognised
This video is 100% logical, no passionate investment whatsoever, without that this video will destroy your enthusiasm to hobby in stacking coins LOL, this video is not for the faint of heart
Awesome video!! Just curious though, when silver does rise up a lot and you do want to sell it, why would anyone want to buy it at that price when it used to be so much lower beforehand?
Good question Adam L. The laws of supply and demand is the short answer. Basically the fact that the price is rising means that people are buying and are demanding more thus the price continues to rise. If nobody wanted silver then the price would fall proportionally to the demand. We shouldn't be consumed with trying to sell at the very top of the market as that is a virtual impossibility to accurately predict. Instead determine where your profit threshold is, which should be based on your stacking goals and execute your exit strategy as appropriate. I hope this kinda helps to answer your question.
You know watching this video and other videos that you have made as really help me realize that I have Blended the two a little bit too much. I definitely have some of my coin silver collecting and silver stacking.... But I get attached to some of my stacking... I need to make wiser decisions when I am stacking and when I am collecting and keep them separated. Again this and other videos that you've done on similar topics have been eye-opening. Very simple and even almost common sense but still eye-opening. Kind of reminds you, you know?
Eric, I appreciate your kind words and I am very pleased the content is helping your awareness. I think at some point, all stackers go through this from time to time and lose focus and stray off the path. When I noticed it was happening to me it inspired me to do this video and others like it! We're all in this together and I would like to see all of us retain out wealth and prosper through this monetary reset. Thanks so much for your comment.
Nice, professional presentation. Many others agree with you. I would definitely stay away from Chinese silver...personal. What is your opinion? Love your choices. Thanks.
The Panda's are one of the highest premium bullion coins series on the market. They aren't even a complete Troy ounce of silver an yet demand more money for them. They are also one the most counterfeited coins. All in all, they are one of my least favorite coins to stack in any quantity! Thanks for your question Steven.
My top coin is bitcoin. There, I said it. :-) Next is the maple leaf or wildlife series coin (I'm in Canada). Next any Perth mint lunar series 10oz coin. Next is any reverse proof RCM coin. Next is the American Eagle (in case I go to the U.S.).
Based on your strategy, thinking I know your answer, but I just want to double check, with regard to the Eagles specifically, do you care to go for any particular year? I've noticed that some Eagles are minted far less (1996 at 3.6 million a while back) than others like the 1991 ( 7.2 million a couple of years ago) ? I have a tube of the more rare Eagles that I payed a bit more for & I also have some less rare Eagles for spot value like you. Thank you. Nice information.
The American Silver Eagles are the foundation of my stack for wealth preservation. The dates of the Eagles can provide a slightly higher selling price if you are willing to market them individually. This is not part of my stacking strategy and I expect to convert or liquidate when the spot price of silver is well above any premiums that may be made by selling selected key date coins in today's market. If your stack is smaller and you feel that taking the time to achieve any possible premium is worth the effort then I would say "go for it". Any premiums made today can be used to buy more silver ounces and thus increasing your overall wealth retention.
@@SilverTorch66 I fully understand. Thanks for answering both questions... I'm not into coin flipping so glad I only have a tube of the 87 & 88s. Just added 85 more 2019 ASE to the stack. Thanks again
Very difficult to quibble with your list, or rationale. We're of like Siamese minds therein. Number five, however, stumped me as I tried to anticipate what your selection would be. I was actually surprised at the choice of the Philharmonic. My thinking would've more toward the Britannia. Any ideas on advantage of the Phil over the Brit?
lol Hey Cheese, here is my rationale on the Philharmonic... Since the European Union, Great Britain has been struggling with it's National economic identity. They had to meld in to this European pot of countries and that's really not the "British way." They were once one the most prominent economic and military powers in the world. So now, with Brexit, they are once again finding their identity and I think it is in good timing because when the Euro collapses they just might have a tiny economic leg to stand on with their Pound Sterling. Regardless, they have isolated themselves from the Euro and the economic connections to the European Union. In Europe as a whole and even outlining countries, I believe the Philharmonic holds more weight in popularity than the Britannia. As I am sure someone from the British Isles would prefer the Britannia over a Phil, They would probably still accept the Austrian Bullion. I'm not so sure it would work the other way around. Any European country outside of the Isles, I believe, would prefer the Phil over the Brit bullion. So there you go my friend!
@@SilverTorch66 but if we have to use silver or gold either for a national world wide catastrophe, regardless if it's man made created or natural disaster, silver and gold should be taken as a method of payment, based in the content/weight of the coin, not in the popularity of the coin, if l have to make a transaction between both of us, you pay with silver, ill look the content of silver and the weight, regardless where it was minted. But thanks for this video, pretty good, and hope we never have to use our precious metals stacks
I appreciate this video. Your top 5 is very similar to mine however, I chose the Perth mint coins instead of the Philharmonic. It's also good to see another serious stacker not hung up on "Perfect silver coins". Thanks for sharing my friend. Keep stacking.
The Perth's are a solid choice for sure! I guess I expect a proof coin to be near perfect and a bullion coin to be.....well...... bullion! Thanks for your comment my friend!
ST66, thanks for the video. Very well done. I've tried talking my brothers into silver, but they think nothing will happen with the banks if the gov't owns them. Some day they'll look back with regret...
All we can do is present the facts and hope they will begin to see through the fog! It can't be forced. The awakening has to be discovered by the individual! Don't give up but don't push too hard!
Kind of curious how most people would take their silver to a different country?? I don't trust the airport. Personally, I think I'd ship them to an address thru the post office or UPS maybe just prior to my hitting the airport.
Be careful and be aware of the risks involved. As long as all money in your travel party has a market value under $10,000 and you properly claim it with the TSA prior to departure you should be ok!
This is true! One of the qualities about the Libertads are that they come in so many different weights. 1/10 oz to 5 oz and more! I really like the versatility it offers. Not to mention I really think it is a beautiful coin!
So that I understand, in the beginning you mentioned ASE 60% Other Sovereigns 20% Genetics /bars 10% Constitutional 10% How does the later mentioned maples, libertads, philharmonics fit into the above grouping? Are these 3 all in the 20% sovereign group you mentioned in the beginning?
Eli, yes they are in the "Other Sovereign" category. These number do float from time to time and are not set in stone! If I get an opportunity to acquire some Cull Maples at an exceptional price, I will pull the trigger and make the purchase which may distort the percentages for a while. But generally, I like the 60,20,10,10 breakdown.
I like the Maples mostly because they say right on them 5 dollars, Eagles say 1 dollar. In a SHTF situation who knows how the value of silver/gold will be determined between people trying to agree on it's value while negotiating for food or other supplies.
That is a good point! I would hope that we could get much more than a face value for an ounce of silver though! Maybe if 5 Canadian Dollars tomorrow is worth what 100 Canadian Dollars today, it might be ok :-)
I went to a coin dealer and he sold me 6 silver rounds with 2017 Christmas printed on it. I paid $18 each. After I paid, in the midst of conversation, the guy said it was only worth $15. I'm still learning. Should I go back to that dealer or should I find a different one? How do I know what spot price is?
Hi there, if the rounds are a troy ounce of .999 silver then you are fine! For me, any troy ounce of silver I can acquire under $20, I believe is going to yield a fine profit in the future. With that said, you always want to acquire your silver as cheaply as possible. I really don't get that hung up on a price that is in the ball park of the average "going rate." Also consider the premium value of your purchase. Some Christmas printed coins can be quite the collectors item and may command a considerable profit in the future. You really have to do your homework and always know what your buying and why your buying it. Is the purchase for your personal collection because you really enjoy the round or are you buying it for wealth retention and quick liquidation when the global monetary set occurs. Your should always go into a purchase knowing exactly what your trying to accomplish. The trust between you and your local coin shop is essential. The better your bond with your local coin shop, the better deals you can get and you can establish a solid source for trusted quality precious metals. Another point of advice is, don't always push your local coin shop "too hard" to try to get the rock bottom price. They are in business to make money and when they choose to reduce their price, it means they are willing to take less profit for the piece then they wanted to and they are doing that for you! The more they like you, the more they are inclined to take that lowered profit to make you happy. Just remember not to abuse it or you may fall out of favor with them. Based on the price you paid, I would not go back to the dealer, in my opinion you did ok on that price. Yes, you might have gotten it cheaper somewhere else but you want as many trusted sources for your precious metals that you can get. Trust is something built up over time so give it time. The best way not to be taken advantage of by a sales person is to know what your buying and demonstrate that during the purchase. The more the salesperson knows that you know what your talking about, the less likely they will be to try to gouge you on the price. Also, when you demonstrate a level of knowledge about precious metals, a dealer may make an assumption that you are a serious stacker and will be a repeat customer, so they will want to be your preferred purchase location. It is also important not to try to "BS" them. Remember they are in the business and generally know what they are talking about. Not all of them, but most! So you have to be genuine with them. As far a knowing what spot price is, there are so many sources on the internet if you google it. I keep a bookmark for silverprice.org this is my go to site for silver spot prices. Thanks for your question and I hope I have helped you out. Good luck!
I prefer Phils over Eagles for the lower premiums and higher relative buy-back price from major on-line dealers. My silver strategy is mostly retirement income supplement. Gold and to a lesser extent platinum are my flee the country metals of choice, with just a smidge of silver to that end. Silver is too heavy and bulky relative to the value of gold and platinum. Enjoyed the video and subbed.
Phils are a good choice and 1099 tax exempt. For grab and go, I agree that gold has to be the preference. I don't know how liquid the platinum market is but as long as you have it, I'm sure one can find a market somewhere. The reason I am Silver heavy now is the gold to silver ratio. I believe that the current 70:1 will find a natural balance once the market manipulation stops and I believe that should bring silver to less than a 35: 1, which means what I need to buy one ounce of gold today will buy at least two ounces later! Thanks for your sub. I hope you continue to enjoy my content.
House Resolution has reject Junk silver as coinage for usage in the silver content. .999 silver purity coinage will be used. 80 or 90 % silver coinage will not be used in the new silver coinage of PM .
@@SilverTorch66 Currently their are 3 states that have the .999 purity requirement. A currency must be uniform and have equal divisible unit. AS like $1 $5 $10 $20. ect ect.... Junk, bars and rounds have different weights, sizes shapes and purity. Not suitable for a currency. . The basic argument for Junk is to make change. There is now proposed coinage form the the mint. Until then, credit slips and store gifts Card will work also. Junk will have to be returned to the PM dealer to be sent to the mint for remelt into coinage, at a hefty fee. . It would take a PM specialist and a math major at a checkout lane for the use of Junk, bars and rounds. Silver Eagle are PLANET wide know and recognized. Junk silver would have worked during your Great Grandma's time.
Ah, I think I got your terms of junk silver confused with constitutional silver. I consider bars and rounds to be generic silver and I can see how that would be next to impossible to be used as a currency!
I've watched this video a few times and I guess consciously or subconsciously I followed your advice. This is my stack inventory from past 2 years... 760oz ASE, 555oz Maples, 130 Onzas, 120oz Philharmonics 375oz of Misc Silver (Proofs, 10oz Beasts, 5oz Art and Misc Rounds), and lastly $340 Face-Value Constitutional.. I will likely not be able to stack this much in the next 2 years as my initial "buy-in" was substantial but I do buy very regularly... Any advice or suggestions on my ratios? Thank You - Joe
Joe - You have a great stack foundation with the sovereign coins. My only concern for you would be the misc silver and the premiums you paid and whether you will be able to recover those premiums especially in a crisis economy. The larger ounce bullion products might be more difficult to liquidate and the proofs are a niche market. I'm not implying they were a bad buy, only that in a crisis economy, I believe that all silver will be reduced to the market value. I am anticipating that the future market value of precious metals will be substantially higher than it is today but for bullion products, the price of an ounce will simply be the price of an ounce. It is Bullion and was never supposed to have numismatic value. It's only been because of the US booming economy over the past six decades that the secondary markets began to appear and place premiums on bullion products because people had the extra money to buy it. And as long as the economy stays strong the market for these premium bullion products will continue to flourish. But once the economy tanks, I believe this will all end. People won't have the disposable income to buy and sell premium bullion products. Not for a long time to come. I have decided to begin selling my higher premium bullion products now while there is still a viable market for them and take that profit to buy more foundation silver.
Great job brother! It's a great list. My number one now is silver shot. I think any coins will be a few premium coins. The rest I'm melting into bars and rounds!
Stackin Ag47 what do you mean by confiscation? Are you saying that the government would confiscate ase, for example? Because I never heard of this theory.
That is very true but any silver bullion sold in quantities under 1,000 ounces is exempt from IRS 1099B brokerage reporting. This advantage comes into play for ASE's or CML's sold in amounts over 1,000 ounces.
Test Passion - In today's market, I would say most certainly. Once the global financial crisis begins, I would say no! Once it is all over (about a decade of time) it might very well re-establish its premium once again!
My intent is to sell my ASE's at spot but when I do, I anticipate that spot will be $50 or more per ounce so, making a profit will not be an issue! Even at its current price, as long as the dollar continues to depreciate, the silver at the same spot price will continue to be able to buy more. Of course this is measured in years or possibly decades because silver stacking is a long term investment proposition.
Awesome video. I wish I had the discipline you do. My strategy is very similar but I do buy things I like with about 5% of my stack. I am at about 70% Eagles. I don't buy much of the Canadian, libertads, or phils but understand your thoughts. I'm counting on Eagles being recognized and accepted everywhere. As far as junk I have some but will count on others to have it and make change for my Eagles. lol. The rest is rounds and 5 and 10 oz bars. Thanks for your thoughts.
Thanks Don, appreciate your feedback! I believe in North America you really can't go wrong with Eagles! The other stuff is icing on the cake :-) As far as buying things I like, I have a coin/bullion collection that is completely separate from my stack. It is here that I collect the pieces I like. I will be doing a vid on it down the road. The generic vid is next.
I don’t get it, 1oz of pure silver is 1oz of pure silver and it’s value should be the same regardless of where the coin was made from or regardless of the pretty design it has
You would think so but it simply isn't the case. Market demands determines the value of an item. The more expense there is to create a product and bring it to market the more the item will cost. All production and delivery costs being equal.... popular demand allows dealers to overcharge for their product and if people want it bad enough, and they are willing to pay that ridiculously high premium, this is why two pieces of one ounce .999 fine silver can have two vary different values! Very sad but very much a reality! Thanks for your comment M L.
If I may ask, I am looking at maybe buying some Balance Scale coins....Mexico 1 oz Silver Onza Balance Scale au/bu 19.80 or Mexico 1 oz Silver Onza Balance Scale Circulated 19.02...which would you choose?
It's not every day but there are specials from time to time when you can get some really great deals on cull Eagles. You just have to keep a keen eye out!
There is one legal problem that we have not been able to solve. Many coins like American eagles are minted my the US government. Does The Us government have a financial stake in the coin just as the federal reserve has a stake in the Fiat Bills they print? We don't know! If in the future the US government wants to confiscate the coins just as they unlawfully took gold from Americans, can they only take the coins that they minted or is any request to turn in your minted coins unlawful? We just don't know, so many people I know just buy rounds and bars from a private mint for this reason.
Nicholascremato under the provisions of Public Law 99-61 which requires the US Mint to produce 1 oz silver coins "in quantities sufficient to meet public demand...) They have to make them and that is the reason that they only have a face value of one US dollar. Basically to give the impression that it has no real value. According to US Law: 31USC5112(e) it is actually illegal for the mint to not comply with this public law and can be held liable. The government can always pass laws to do anything they want including the confiscation of ASE's but the likelihood of that happening is so remote that I really think it shouldn't be a concern. Citizens today are very different from those in 1933/34. I don;t think the government would even consider it worth the trouble to confiscate gold and silver coins from citizens. Remember that the Presidential order 6102 signed by FDR only prohibited the hording of gold coins, gold bullion and gold certificates. Citizens were permitted to keep $100 of gold denominated coins, but remember back then the gold price was set at $20.67 per ounce. So it was quite a lot of money back then. There were also many exemptions which allowed you to keep gold. The government asked the public to turn in their gold for fair payment at the current value. No one was cheated, no ones gold was stolen! I still firmly believe that in North America, the ASE is the most recognizable, liquid able form of wealth that would be accepted for goods and services over any generic or foreign examples. I really think that the probability of government confiscation is negligible at best. I'm not even concerned about it! There will be so many bigger problems for the government to deal with.
I like the video, thanks. Its hard for me to collect silver in the UK, as they add 20% tax to everything, except the Britannia coins. So probably theyre useful to have. Can anyone tell me how much of a premium over spot is a good deal, I found a place in HK selling bars for 102% and maples for 111% and 1980s amark rounds for 109% spot. Any thoughts on which is the better deal?
When it comes to a generic product that is of guaranteed weight and purity, the brand matters not so much! Go for the cheapest deal you can find but be sure to include a per unit cost for any VAT, shipping and handling fees that may be involved. If you can get Britannia's cheaper without having to pay VAT, then, I would say, just stick with them.
The Britannica should have been one of the top five silver selection. A government minted coin and is well recognized. Constitutional silver has too many difficulties to be used during a currency crash. Junk silver's future, is back to the Precious Metal dealer to be minted into Silver eagles at a hefty fee of 30 %.
Bill - I have received much feedback agreeing with you that the Britannica would be a better choice over the Austrian Philharmonic and I would not dispute that! As I do not reside in Europe, my assessment at the time was based on my interpretation for the acceptance of the Philharmonic in the Euro-zone over the Britannica. Many community members who do live there have expressed the same opinion as yourself. I may have to update my choices given this new knowledge from the European community! Thanks Bill for your feedback!
SteveR- I really don't have many proof grade coins! I have a few that are a part of my coin collection but that is separate from my stack for wealth retention.
I do have relatives living across the border in the US, while MLs are the bulk of my stack I know my much less prepared American cousins are gonna need help as I stack some ASEs and Constitutional coins.
I understand! All we can do is try to illuminate our loved ones or at least provide them some protection if they are unable to climb their way out of the fog!
You know you will always have a solid investment with the Pandas. They are tried and true high quality coins. My only hesitation would be to make sure you get your Pandas from a reliable source as they are frequently a target for fakes! I would thoroughly check each one for design accuracy, weight, diameter, thickness, magnetism ect. As long as your getting the real deal, your in good shape! Thanks for your comment.
I like the silver Maples very much! They are usually cheaper than the ASE's and I never worry about milk spotting with bullion stacked for wealth retention. I will say that I'm not sure the four nines purity will be significant down the road. Maybe it will be, but I would imagine that the demand for that specific level of purity would be scarce. I could be totally wrong though!
