Such a simple repair, with your experience you picked it pretty quick. Nice job ! What brand/size is your cordless wrench ? I am looking at purchasing one here in Queensland Oztralia. 🙂🚜🐻 Bear. As usual really enjoyed the video.
I see you spray your old rubber gaskets with carb choke cleaner spray ? That’s not good I see them swell up when I have used carb cleaner on the gaskets I no longer ever spray the rubber gaskets
Just bought a 2007 x304 with 158 hours that was only used to mow once then was put on a snowblower for the rest of its life. It did not run very well when i got it, with the help of this video it's running perfect now. Mine still had all the plugs but needed a good cleaning. Thanks for the video.
Watched your video about a month ago and if I had found it I could have saved about $200, $95 of that at Johh Deere. After I ordered the kit from Amazon, a little over $10, my x300 was on the way to recovery. Only thing left is watching your video on getting my hood back in shape. Thank you again for posting help for us John Deere owners and helping us save money. 🙋🏼♂️
@Lindsey Lyda Thank you for leaving a comment! Your feedback means a lot to us, and we are thrilled to know that you found the video helpful. I can't wait to connect with you again in future videos! 😄👍 Stay tuned for more exciting content and feel free to share your thoughts anytime!
Watched the hood repair video but my hood is beyond your repair procedure. Too many cracks but have got plenty of tape keeping it together. Paid $300, with bagger, trailer and 38” deck. Got chains on rear tires for going down in the lower 40 and side mirrors for backing up. Just can’t see paying nearly $500 for a new hood, yet.
Had the surging problem with my X304, carb cleaner in the fuel and sprayed into the throttle body did not address. I rebuilt the carb following your instruction; similar to you I did not find obvious deposits. But, it did the trick, problem solved! Thanks!
Great video! It gave us the knowledge and the confidence to tear into it. After cleaning the main jets and the bowl, it kept surging when we put it back together. We didn't have the plug missing, but I squirted carburetor cleaner into the holes in the front of the carburetor that is covered by that plug, and it cleared it up in just a few seconds. Thank you again!
Thanks Baldeagle that was exactly what was wrong with my JD180. That little peice can misconstrue you with a variety of problems making it seem like carb was bad or maybe fuel line or filter. After fixing all that I'm glad I found this video. Thanks again.
I'm showing my age, but what i use one the fuel solenoid is a tappet wrench. Yeah i still have them, come in handy at times. Great video, learn something everytime.
Yep, same annoying surge. 17hp Kawasaki liquid-cooled v twin, 1999 JD LX279. Have to choke during all but wide-open throttle operation. Thank you for helping.
+@georgemaxwell2703 Glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching! Here’s a link to other videos I’ve posted that you may find useful. ru-vid.com/group/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
Yeah, this one frustrated me after I pulled the carb and tore it down to clean it. I truly missed the missing Welch plug until I had it back together and running. Since this day it’s the very first thing I check when a surging engine comes into our shop.
@baldeagle242 I checked my neighbors this morning. He's got a 19.5 B&S deere. It has a sweet spot with the engine at full throttle, runs fine, but as soon as you try and idle down, it goes into these 1-second surges. He's been mowing this way for 3 years now. His carbs a little different than yours. I sprayed carb cleaner around the area trying to find the leak. No success. I've got no other options now but to pull the carb. which will probably be a waste of time. I wonder what would happen if you modified the governor with a bike spoke so it can only move with the throttle stick?
@baldeagle242 I checked my neighbors this morning. He's got a 19.5 B&S deere. It has a sweet spot with the engine at full throttle, runs fine, but as soon as you try and idle down, it goes into these 1-second surges. He's been mowing this way for 3 years now. His carbs a little different than yours. I sprayed carb cleaner around the area trying to find the leak. No success. I've got no other options now but to pull the carb. which will probably be a waste of time. I wonder what would happen if you modified the governor with a bike spoke so it can only move with the throttle stick?
Great job hunting that one down! My x300 had the same surge, albeit with a lower frequency. I had checked the fuel system, blew backwards with air through the fuel line to dislodge any clogs, cleaned the carb, and was stumped. What a simple fix. Makes you wonder why that port and plug even exists. Mine was surging less frequently because it hadn’t yet fallen out, was just cockeyed sitting there. Thank you, you’ve got a subscriber!
The plug is there simply to seal the hole. The hole is there because during manufacturing, they can’t drill around a 90* corner, so they drill an access port. If you really dig into it, you will often find a couple of those Welch plugs on small carbs. The covered hole will always intersect another, usually very small drilling. If the Welch plug leaks, it will cause problems. I always put a dab of JB Weld, or even clear fingernail polish on top of the plug to ensure a seal.
You are the best you never overlook even the smallest thing. I have learned a lot from you and I look forward to more of your great videos. I am still hoping you will get the chance to restore a GT235 because I need help removing the main body for sanding and painting on my GT235. Keep up the great work and videos.
Got the same engine same problem..I'll check this out..it will run on half choke and run well..but surges when you take the choke..i hope this is it thinking about buying a new carburetor.. Oh..it's on a cub cadet..1525 lawn tractor..Cheers 🍻🍻🍻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
I've used a small propane soldering kit tank and torch for years to check for vacuum leaks around intake manifolds & around carburetors and vacuum hoses on vehicles with a fair amount of success. Just turn the valve on so the propane flows and check around the intake manifold, carb and hoses particularly where there are gaskets involved. If the engine sweetens up (idles smoothly) then you have likely located a suction leak.
That’s a great tip. I’ve heard of others doing this but I’ve never tried it myself. This could be a great idea for a future video. 🤔 Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment. 😁👍
That works to find some vacuum leaks on larger vehicle engines pretty good but on small stuff if you get anywhere near the carb or air filter area with the propane, it sucks it in the intake revs up and fakes you out so like in this instance in particular leaking on the carburetor, I’m fairly certain that method would have been frustrating and inconclusive.
Great information! I have an X300 that had been sitting a long time and had to pull the fuel bowl and clean it out. It also surged like this one. I ran sea foam and fresh fuel and it sorted out ok but not great. I will check that plug before I remove the carb.
Thanks for posting this. I just bought a used Gravely 1548G walk behind. Finished cleaning the carb and its surging worse now that its cleaned and I realized, I had dirt over that hole on top of the carb. I was wondering why is this hole open on top of the carb?? Well there must have been a welch plug there that popped out. I'll order that kit and tomorrow I'll try putting my finger on that hole, bet that's the problem. Haven't worked on many Kawasaki's so thanks again for the help.
Peen those little plugs gently with a small hammer and punch. They flatten out a little and tighten up. Another tip is to peen the edge of the hole in with a punch in 2-3 spots around the top to keep it from working out.
@@baldeagle242 II have a John deer D105 mower with a brigs n Stratton engine… I watched that video went straight out and looked.. there was the empty screw hole.. I plugged it and poof no more surging.. you’re the bomb man!!
@@walterboothe6593 that’s awesome! I’m so happy this video has helped so many people. I had no idea this problem was as common as it is when I made this video. Thanks for watching! 😁👍
Sos un genio pelado!. Tengo ese problema en mi X300 y ya me tenia cansado. Me pregunto para que esta ese agujero en el carburador?. Se ve que el tapon que trae de fabrica se sale el con la vibración. Tendrian que aplicar un Service Bulletin para corregir ese defecto.
+@WalkingTemple-ws2si Thanks for watching! Hopefully you’ll find other videos I’ve posted interesting or useful. ru-vid.com/group/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
The easiest way to test it is pull the fuel line off that connects to the carburetor. Place the hose in a container that’s safe for fuel then crank the engine to see if it’s pumping fuel into the container.
+@cue881-yo7kz Thanks for watching! Here’s a link to other videos I’ve posted that you may find useful. ru-vid.com/group/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
I am going to order the kit, but am also goin G to try to make the little cap out of an aluminum can and punch it into the vacuum hole. Thanks for the video.
@@davidhawkinson9797 the aluminum can or even a small amount of silicone will do the trick. No need to order the kit. I just happened to have the kit when I made this video.
+@bradleygambino5021 I’m glad it helped. Thanks for watching! Hopefully you’ll find other videos I’ve posted interesting or useful. ru-vid.com/group/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
fh661 x324 1st surges at idle then was normal then surged at full power. full can of gumout fixed it spraying at full power while playing with choke. good as new
+@michaelmcelwain2053 Thank you for sharing your comment! We hope to see you around in the future as well. youtube.com/@baldeagle242 Wishing you all the best! 😊👍
Great video, I will check that plug first. I have a surging problem also, I changed the fuel filter and the fuel pump, witch was bad. After I switched the fuel pump, I thought I had fixed it, but that heiped a lot, but I had not found the problem yet, So wish me luck.
@@detaronrockydoo6957 I replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, air filter and the spark plug. I then replaced the gaskit between the carburetor and the engine still nothing. So I replaced the carburetor. I got it from Amazon, It is a little hard starting but it runs good.
I've worked on quite a few of these but this was a first for me. There have been a few others comment about having this same issue though. Thanks for watching KB. I enjoy your videos as well. 🦅🇺🇸
I have a tractor with the same engine and Walboro carb. These carbs are the most dirt sensitive carbs I have ever seen ! In the top of the carb venturi there are some tiny pilot jet drillings and a gallery that feeds them. In my experience this is the weak point for dirt on these carbs. What I sometimes do if the engine is surging is set full throttle and block the intake with my hand a couple of times, the violence of the pressure/vacuum shock often clears them. Horrible carbs they ruin an otherwise decent engine !
I can’t argue with that. I believe they were struggling to meet the tighter EPA requirements when these mowers were built and did some pretty restrictive stuff to keep these carbs running lean to pass the requirements. I believe the next 5-10 years will be even worse and probably cause a few to follow Hondas lead and get out of the market altogether.
If you use a Welsh plug punch to set it, it will seal it. The plug just needs to be flattened out some on top. That will expand the plug, and it will not leak.
I don’t have surging issues but little backfiring under full throttle and more pronounced when idled down. I changed oil plugs and filters expecting to run better. No such luck. Maybe my issue is in the carburetor. I’ve never removed it and I’m at 467 hours on the x300 bought in 2011.
@@e.t.preppin7084 It’s possible your valves are out of adjustment and/or your carb is sucking air somewhere. Kawasaki recommends the valves be adjusted every 300 hours. I’d start with that if it’s never been done.
Thanks so much. I’m absolutely shocked to get an answer from you and so quickly. That’s so admirable of you. I’m definitely subbed now and am so appreciative for your help.
No, they have nothing to do with freezing. They are called a Welch plug. During manufacturing, it’s difficult to drill around corners, so they drill an access port,then seal it with the Welch plug. There are usually a couple on small outboard motor carbs. You will find a very small drilling under each one, if the carb is really gummed up up you may have to pry the plug out, flush clean with carb cleaner, then install a new one. If they leak, you’ll never get the motor to run right. They are included with carb rebuild kits.
+@jimeagle5483 Thanks for watching! Here’s a link to other videos I’ve posted that you may find useful. ru-vid.com/group/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
Great tutorial - mine was surging in same exact manner. I assumed I’d put throttle/choke linkages back together improperly. Question - is there “quick fix” alternative to ordering the replacement plug? Ex - can I just put a bit of epoxy in that hole? Or otherwise tape over it without fouling up the works?? I’ll order the correct part, but need to mow the lawn today 😢
It won’t hurt a thing to epoxy over it or as you suggested put a piece of tape over it until you have the correct plug. If I hadn’t already had the plug in stock that’s exactly what I would have done. This hole is for machinery access when they build the carb. There is no need to ever open this plug after that.
There are ways to adjust the governor but be careful going to far. These engines will last a long time at lower RPMs but if you crank them up much past 3500 - 3600 rpms they will not last as long.
I’m trying to get my jd160 back in working condition it starts and idles but when you put a drag on the engine he surges and stops wait a while and it will do it again what should I do thanks
Sounds like the main jet is (possibly) partially clogged or the fuel supply isn’t keeping up. I’d check everything (including your fuel and air filters) externally first and If you don’t find an issue there id pull the carb off and clean it.
Check to make sure your gas cap is venting properly before you start looking at other things. The fuel tank will hold a vacuum and not let fuel flow if the caps not venting. It’s easy to check, just loosen or temporarily remove the cap.
Stuff like this is tuff to troubleshoot without seeing it in person. It could be sucking air somewhere around the intake (after the carb) or could have a governor issue or something stuck in the linkage.
I have the same mower. It was running very roughly and would I had to "massage the choke to keep it running" After cleaning the carb which didn't work, I simply replaced the carb but did not adjust the carb. After reinstalling the new carb, it starts up like a champ and runs fine---UNTIL I engage the mowing deck and start to mow. Then the engine slows down and will stall.. I have to push the clutch in to disengage the mowing deck, wait for the RPMs to come back up and then start again only to have to repeat the same thing over in a few feet. Very frustrating. I also replaced the fuel pump, the fuel filter and even the fuel itself in case it was contaminated from sitting around for a couple of months. Should I attempt to adjust the fuel using the screw on top? Or is there another suggestion you have? Thanks!!
Are you certain the deck belt is on correctly and something hasn’t wrapped itself around the spindle under the mower? From your brief discretion this sounds more like something mechanical is binding up than it does an engine issue.
@@baldeagle242 That never occurred to me but I will check for it this morning. I also have a short video that demonstrates the problem but wasn't sure if or how to post it. I spoke to a mechanic, who clearly wasn't interested in fixing it, who suggested it sounded like the valves needed adjusting. I appreciate the very quick reply!!! Thank you so much...
The first thing I would confirm is that you have good fresh fuel with no water. Also check your fuel cap to ensure it's venting. (run it lose or off just to make sure) If you're 100% sure the carb has no air/vacuum leak, it would have to be a restricted fuel flow in the Carb. Let us know what you find once you figure it out.
Any idea what those little holes on top you plugged to do? I've got a John Deere X520 that's surging like crazy and I've taken the carburetor apart and cleaned it along with changing the fuel filter, and a number of other things and nothing has worked so far. The engine is a 26 horsepower Kawasaki and the carburetor has got 2 holes on each side that looks similar to the ones in the video. There's two by the choke on the right and two by the throttle on the left and it looks as if it could use a plug but I can't place my finger over 2 of them to check because the mounting bolt is in the way. I'm just stumped at this point and don't know what else to try
It’s called a Welch plug. It’s used to cover a hole that had to be cast or machined into the carb to aid in assembly. Some carbs do have more than one hole for this purpose.
@@baldeagle242 Gotcha. By plugging them dose it stop excess air flow or something like that? My issue seems to be caused by excess air flow or something like that because if I hold the choke up a little bit it'll run smoothly and stops the surging. Also if I try and lower the throttle it cuts off so just don't know
@@baldeagle242 alright so they can cause airflow issues. Because I'm not real sure if that's the issue or because I can't find anything online about this specific carburetor, I saw you have an Instagram link in your bio, would you maybe mind if I sent you a few pictures I took and maybe get your opinion before I do something stupid?
This riding mower cannot discharge the grass properly because its outlet is too small and the fan is not efficient. One solution is to mow your lawn every 3 days (2 days in the spring) in order to mow a very small amount of grass. If you wait one week, the grass outlet will be blocked all the time. Conclusion: this machine is made to mow when you have no grass, a machine to mow in the desert!
I agree, but this is normal. The shut off delay keeps the motor running for a few seconds after the key is turned off. It prevents the engine from dying If you lift your butt off the seat, or move far to one side of the seat (like when side a hill)... if your butt is back down in a normal fashion you will never know you triggered the delay circuit.. The delay also helps to clear any fuel out of the carb to prevent a backfire when it shuts off. It seems odd but nothing to worry about. Thanks for watching. 😁👍 it would be a real bummer to have the engine cut out immediatly... the carb solonoid is meant to keep fuel from creating backfires... that is my understanding...
I find them on Market place from time to time. I keep an eye out for non-running mowers that still have good hoods and sometimes can find an entire mower with a good hood for about what you’d pay for the hood.
I too need a hood. The two worst things about any John Deere riding mower are the hoods and seats. They will both brake or come apart at some point. My hood brim when I simply opened it to check the oil one day.
+Larry Baltz I got schooled on this one for sure. I've worked on dozens of these over the years and this is the first time I've found one of these missing. I can assure you it will be the first place I look next time and hopefully this video will help others to find it quicker. Thanks for watching. 🦅🇺🇸
@@baldeagle242 I was waiting to see see what you would find thinking my issue was a one-off. I must have cleaned my carb (just like you did) 5 times before I found that leak. I just smeared some JB Weld over it and was good to go. Thanks for all you're sharing!
@@larrybaltz4873, problems like this can drive you crazy. This one taught me a lesson. I went into this thinking it was automatically going to be a dirty carb. If I had taken a step back and tried to start the mower right after I took the top cover off I may have saved myself some time. Hopefully this video will save others time and frustration.
Tecumseh use to recommend using nail polish to seal the welch plugs. What is the wrench size needed to remove the fuel shut off on the bottom of the carb bowl?
Good video, But What you doing with the cheap Chinese "Knock off" blade balancer on the finder? Tried two of them and neither one worked. sent them both back and got the mag 1000
@@dennisoneal8505 That’s interesting. I’ve never had an issue with it. It’s nothing more than a cone mounted on a shaft with bearings and magnets to hold the blade in place. I’m struggling to understand how they wouldn’t work? Unless they are not mounted strait there’s really no reason for them not to work. 🤷🏻♂️
@@baldeagle242 Well the two I tried, the Bearings inside the cone were dragging and you could actually feel them as it turned/rotated. It would give you a false reading. The old "table top /cone type" balancer works better than these. If you really want a balanced blade then you will have to use the Mag 1000. If you ever try one you will see there is no comparison.
Hey great video! Couldn’t you just have used the black RTV Sealant by itself & saved from having to use that small metal plug? My Husqvarna 7000 Series Kohler is doing the surge thing now too!?!
Yes, you can seal the hole with RTV only. I just happened to have a rebuilt kit in the shop and decided to do both. When I put the plug in it still seemed a little loose so I decided to do both.
I have the exact same mower not with a similar problem though. It will not start with choke up but with choke down it will run for about 3-5 seconds then die out but while doing so it spits fuel out of the air intake of the carburetor any idea what it could be? I’m still trying to fix it thinking it’s most likely something wrong in the carburetor.
My 300x is the same year as the one you did carb work on I fixed the seat the you showed in yo video I have learned a lot about John deer tractors . thanks corky
I found your site too late. The dealer replaced the carb and it WASN'T cheap... Luckily I ask for the old parts, so maybe I'll look online for this kit and install the Welch plug. Only one fell out. I'll have to glue them BOTH in place while I'm at it. Just to make sure. My X300 was doing the exact same thing as yours, surging. That missing part is called a Welch plug, from what I was told but I have no idea what it's purpose is other then preventing that surging issue..
It’s hard to drill around corners. The Welc h plug seals where two intersecting passages, (usually very tiny ones),meet.they are very common on small carbs,especially outboard motors.
@@edwardhill6945 I went heavy with my Tonya Harding and punch, just to make sure those Welch plugs will stay in for a longing time. I find it difficult to drill square holes, but it's doable..hehehe
I have a J.D. S120 with the same surging problem others are having. About to call it my G.D. 120!😂 Some say Fuel Line, some say fuel pump, others say Carb. I did the yearly maintenance hoping it would fix it, it did not. Fuel pump is working fine, I disconnected the carb. Side fuel line and watched it pump evenly, so that means it and the fuel line are fine. Only other thought is carb. Or the Welch bolt/Cap or What ever that was that you replaced. Thanks for the video.
Surging is definitely fuel related. Generally it’s getting to much air or not enough fuel. An air leak anywhere around the carb or a partially clogged main jet are the problem most of the time.
@Jaybyrd Thank you for sharing your comment! Your feedback means the world to us. It's incredibly uplifting to hear from viewers who have discovered solutions through our videos and share their own experiences. We genuinely hope to see you around in the future as well. youtube.com/@baldeagle242 Wishing you all the best! 😊👍
They are normal threads but the factory uses permanent loc-tite on them. I use the tip of an electric soldering iron to get them hot enough to soften the tread locker without burning the paint. You cold also use a propane torch but you’ll have to repaint it once you’re done. Hope this helps.
This actually causes a 'lean condition,' where the fuel burns up prematurely before the stroke is complete. It's interesting to note that a rich condition, where the fuel doesn't completely burn before the air is consumed, exhibits similar symptoms. We appreciate you taking the time to leave a comment, and we look forward to having you join us in future videos. Feel free to share your thoughts and keep the conversation going! 😄👍"
@@baldeagle242 yeah inside those carbs those lil holes will get clogged with that rich composite of fuel i have a 26 hp craftsman twin amd inside the twin carb i had clogged up jets also sometimes it's good to check spark plugs unless u know there good
I'm not sure. I would call the dealer and they should be able to point you in the right direction. If you're mot worried about keeping it original I have used pop rivets to secure it in place. You will have to drill them out if you ever need to remove the screen again but it's cheap and effective.
+james matheson Glad it was helpful. Thanks for watching! Here’s a link to other videos I’ve posted that you may find useful. ru-vid.com/group/PL5_ZXmQpcjpac4UV8OW8g-IWVCR8tqy79&si=RKfnQL-PAcZFy67a
