Simple how-to: Replace Ford Focus rocker (valve) cover gasket, PCV failure #2 

Mike Moren

Looks can be deceptive

JasperBzone same lol

Room*

Holy crap. This comment was for the other video of replacing the PCV hose

Im allways looking into doing repairs on my car specially when the mechanic i took my car to took the piss wit over pricing the parts and the job.

No need to replace the gasket if it's new, either try re-doing the tightening and check the torque, otherwise take it off again and give everything a good clean before putting back together. Check the leak area for the reason, scratched head or cracked cover, damaged rubber, dirt or glazing.

I can't tell you the part # for a different engine, look it up using the correct model & year. Plugs gasket is part of the gasket shown in this video, all one piece, but commonly they are separate (but nonetheless will come in the same package, same part #). Have a look at my recent videos for example with the Duratec 2.0 for example.

@@CraigsDIY i already bought and installed they are the same

We bought it genuine from John Andrew Ford. Not cheap as you might expect, you might get it cheaper from the US if you know the part # for sure. I wanted to be able to return it easily. I'm wary of the aftermarket ones, maybe good maybe not, for the sake of a few extra $ can't be bothered risking it.

Do you mean the exhaust manifold shield, or the little shield on the cover top. If the former, I don't remember, the easiest thing to do is take the old bolt(s) to a fastener place and just ask for stainless replacements. If the latter it's some bespoke part.

Yes, the heat shield bolts. Thank you for your quick response! I'll do just that. They rust out badly! Stay OTT! It keeps the bugger running!!!

Not on this engine. Sometimes there is a joint between head and front cover that needs a small blob of sealant to help the gasket. If you don't have the same engine then this video is not specifically useful, you need to find the right workshop procedure from the manufacturer.

Rust on plugs is not unusual I believe, although if they're really bad you might want to replace them anyway at the same time. Use dielectric grease when replacing the leads so as to guard electrics against corrosion. The cover is plastic obviously and the head is alloy so won't rust, at most a bit of oxidization but the gasket and cover obviously are routinely covered in oil so won't corrode inside. As to removing a stuck cover, try working a flat blade in under one corner, then twist it to lever up the plastic. Be very gentle and careful not to damage the head. Once you crack the gasket seal in one area, it will usually come away. I focused around the oil cap hole as this gives a useful handle to pull on. Alternatively, run a hot air gun around its edge to try to soften it up.

Thanks ! I'll try this ;)

Shhh. All I'm saying is it ain't leaking yet!

You shouldn't.

@@CraigsDIY Any suggestions on how to dissolve the sealant without damaging the valve cover? The last mechanic that did mine used a silicone gasket maker and it looks glued shut

Mine was sealed as well (that's the red stuff you can see in places). Sometimes 'the last guy' will bodge the job by using sealant to fix a leak rather than replacing the gasket properly. On some heads it seems necessary, e.g. if there is a metal joint that needs sealing to assist the gasket. But on this car the gasket should be enough. It will pull off, you just need to be careful. Use a hot air gun or run the engine a little to warm things up.

@@CraigsDIY You're right I think it was a botched job but at the time I had no idea of what to look for. I got some 3m adhesive from the parts store. the guys said it may work, atleast thats what I'm hoping. There's alot on there.

If you mean scrape it off, get a decent plastic scraper. You can use degreaser or brake clean to help get residue off the aluminium but be careful not to get any inside the engine. It will be a monotonous job regardless, sadly.