Easy and simple do-it-yourself jobs for amateur mechanics and their cars. I'm not a professional, so if I can do it you probably can too!
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Thanks so much for posting this video - I was able to successfully replace the bulbs in my 2010 GTI! My hands got a bit scraped up but it’s all working great. I have seen some auto parts websites say the 2010/mark 6 takes an H7 bulb-that’s wrong, definitely the H15! Thanks again for the help!
3:40 what if it is not raked in on the left of the yellow one and the flaps were closed all the time when driving? is it possible that the car jerked when accelerating because of this? we only noticed it now.
What the autoscan is for is to find out which modules are present in your car. Then you can make a scan list that is specific to your car which makes subsequent scans almost instantaneous rather than taking more than 2 hours. (I use VAG CAN PRO which may not be as good as vcds at knowing what protocols to scan etc and therefor may take longer to do the auto scan). Thanks for the clear explanation as to what tools are needed to remove the sensor.
Same parts and issue I replaced on my 96 k1500 with a 350 Chevy. Thinking it’s either my harmonic balancer or the crank going out smh. Issue started shortly after replacing pulleys. Harmonic is ordered and here guess we will see in due time 😅
Brilliant video, thank you. I wonder what kind of ugly stuff Ford designers were smoking when designing this... 🙄 This should have been an easy access panel. I remember in my previous car, a Renault Clio from 1999, it didn't took me more than 2 minutes to change ALL front bulbs from both sides.
Jacking on the control arm is not a good practice. It's not designed as a location to bear a point load, it's a pivot point, and doesn't bear the weight of the car. There are other locations on the subframe behind the jack point that are safe to use, but don't help with getting the jackstands in position either. Really stupid design by VW. Really stupid and unsafe.
Not jacking on the control arm. Load is being applied to the bracket bolt which is tightly compressed against the bracket and rigidly connected to the car frame. Are forces are in compression and everything is more than strong enough.
Thanks very much much for this video. My Duratec had a crackling sound that gradually got worse over a long time. My garage tried twice to identify it but failed. Thanks to this video, I found it was the tensioner. I’ve replaced it, the idler and the belt by following this guide and the problem is fixed. Thanks very much much, Craig.
I think this procedure is easier in the Zetec SE because it is an inverted motorization. The PCV valve and its pipes are on the front, they are much more accessible and easier to verify.
Hi Craig, just a quick question about Mondeo Duratec engine, thanks to one of your video I successfully changed the EGR valve, cleared the error code but nothing changed, the P0400 pops again. Where should I look next? The T-MAP sensor?
Hallo hallo, ich habe ein Problem mit der automatischen Klimaanlage. Ich habe den Kompressor gewechselt. Er hat ein paar Minuten lang funktioniert. Jetzt funktioniert er nicht mehr. Der neue Kompressor ist eine Sicherung. Alles ist in Ordnung, auch das Relais. Ich kann das Problem nur verstehen, wenn jemand jemand hat Hilft mir, danke Ford Mondeo mk3 tuning
He's right. 1st, turn heater to HOT. Drain the radiator with cold engine. Engine off, Flush radiator with a garden hose until it runs clean. Close petcock, add radiator flush/cleaner and DISTILLED WATER for 10 minutes @ 2500 RPM. Always leave heater on hot. Engine cold, drain radiator then add DISTILLED WATER 3 or 4 times until drained water is clear. The complete system (engine, radiator, heater core and hoses) is approximately 6.8 quarts. As you have noticed, you were only able to remove about 1/2 that amount. What is now left in the engine is only DISTILLED WATER. Finish by adding CONCENTRATED MOTORCRAFT YELLOW ANTIFREEZE/COOLANT, 3-3.4 QUARTS. I hope this was helpful.😊
Thanks as always for great DIY video, I also noticed that you have the same model Vitz/Yaris as well so those videos will come in handy soon (I've only had it for about a year). I've been following your Mondeo videos since I bought mine around 6 years ago. I'm interested to know where you get your parts from and whether you've done / have a plan to do "upgrade" in terms of performance, as you know we in NZ are not as fortunate as our fellow Mondeo owners in the UK in terms of parts supply and price. Keep up the good work. Cheers.
Vitz got stolen I'm afraid. I get most Ford parts from Europe or England. Prices and availability here is laughable. I can express courier most parts from UK for half the cost or less.
long ago you haven't done any Mondeo DIY. I have the same car and I did a lot of things because I watched your videos . I bought Hyundai UpToDate car but still keep my Mondeo mk3 , I consider it a unique European car that can live long . Greetings from KSA.
I wish that PCV valve was cheap. It comes as an assembly and only Napa AutoParts had it...for $100 bucks. What takes 30 min tops and $10 on my Tacoma takes hours of work and cost $150... Super dumb design.
!! Please reply !! I accidentally put the jack too far forward, that is at the closest point to the front wheels. So next to the dimple (left side since I was jacking the left side) It has crumpled up a bit but will it have caused any serious damage? No visible issues.
If you mean at the pinch weld (the seam at the outside), it's mostly cosmetic damage. If you've broken any undercoating or paint, you might then get rust, which has to be stopped.
@@CraigsDIY I heard faint creaking noises and immediately stopped and lowered the car when I noticed. I really don’t think there is anything serious, the weld just looks crumpled up at that point now
To me, tie rod was really easy to take off. Losen the nut, hit it couple of times with a sledgehammer, and off it goes. I don't understand, that how it is easier to take that plastic cover out🤔
Hi Craig's DIY Car! I noticed that the rubber o-ring of the old pump had significantly(!) increased in diameter. Just yesterday I changed my pump and noticed the same effect. It is known that cars commonly use rubber that is resistant to oils and other technical substances, but in this case this is not the case. What do you think - perhaps such a material is used so that the ring swells after installation to seal the connection more reliably? Could this be so - will lubricating the ring with silicone grease to simplify installation (and as a result protect it from the effects of antifreeze) slow down this effect, which will lead to a possible small leak. I am interested in your opinion or perhaps you have accurate information on this issue.
