Only issue I see was you probe the wires instead of back probing the terminals. Probing it on the wires puts a hole on the insulation and in time will cause corrosion.
Thanks and good Video. Just to ler you know that i have a mazda BJ5 car which gives high rpm level in the morning hours when starts and its there about 2 to 4 mints. Less fuel efficiency and Rpm goes up and down when drive. Pulling power is seems like very low when 2 or 3 persons in the car and frequently dropping RPM level when go mountains areas. Does not accelatate much at that point. But i noticed thar map sensor edge is pasted by using some glue....any. Idea please?
4:57. Sorry but you should not use that tool to remove the wire harness clip it will break it. I just removed my map sensor for cleaning today. I remove the wire harness clip by squeezing the two tabs at the back, one with my finger and the other with a blunt bent knife blade. The wire harness clip was not damaged & remained secure.
Nice video dude. Got a question. I got e46 320d bmw, when I tap the gas pedal rpms do not jump instantly, it's so slow, need to keep the foot down completely so it can Rev a little bit, can this sensor cause this? Thanks.
You don't use impact because YOU DON'T! Furthermore, you failed to pivot the RS Flange so it'll aligne with Mipp undertoe. You're gonna need more than 4volts to spin the flywheel cluster. C'mon, bro!
hi ,mine on my transit, 4 pin one , 3 got 5v and one earth when unpluged ingnition on , but when plugged back in and running only getting 0.978 v when running revving it no change but the temps reads -40 so thinks its faulty ?
Great vid Gerard! I was a bit confused when you took that focus for a spin and said to myself, that's not Ireland!? Until I read your bio and see you are in Oz 😁
Nice work Big Gerard. I just uploaded a geek fest video about the Wheatstone bridge haha. In fact I am absolutely going to make one and I will do it this week!
I had a faulty map sensor P0107. Got a new one. Got a scan tool, the new map sensor reading is stuck at 33kpa. Did all these tests. Only thing i can conclude is the new one is faulty. Waiting for another one off ebay to arrive.....to see if that makes any difference.
@Thomas Browne the one i got off ebay was no good. Although i did respond to the vacuum test slightly. But the problem with it was, firstly the voltage reading was too low when i plugged it in. 0.73v which for whatever reason the computer interpreted that as 255kpa. Secondly i tried the vacuum test on it with a hand held vacuum pump, at max vacuum, 750mmHg, the voltage went up!....to 1.94v. Its supposed to be around 5v when plugged in then drop as the vacuum increases. Sent it back.
@@premier1975 Standard Electric Products offer a lifetime warranty on their parts. I replaced a TPS and bought a Standard Electric. Some time later the TPS went bad so I took it back to O'Reilly's and they exchanged it with a new one with no questions asked. If I was going to buy brakes then I'd buy from Rockauto.com. They sell quality parts for alot less. But if I need to buy electrical or mechanical parts then I'd rather spend more and buy locally in case I have to return it.
You need to reset the ecu after replacing this sensor, otherwise the performance of the engine stays sluggish, even after driving 2 months without resetting!
it depends on what car and what year. Some cars a Ecu reset can only done by connecting it to a laptop with the official car brand software on the laptop. But most cars you can reset the Ecu by disconnecting the negative from battery, and then connect the negative wire to the positive side to drain out all the electronic inside the car. And than leave it like that for at least 12 hours.
my map sensor indicates 67kpa as soon as I started the engine causing rough idle. after 1 or 2 minutes it drops to 48kpa and stabilizes. the sensor has been replaced with a new OEM one but I can't solve the problem .. any idea ????
I have a vw 2.0 tdi. Had an IAT sensor fault and low pressure fuel rail fault and the car would stall after starting. The IAT is also the MAP sensor. I've changed fuel pump, pressure sensor and regulator and the fault still persists. Could my Map sesnor be causing this?
Just to add a second comment Gerard, this is great for testing the map sensor assuming the wiring to the sensor is 100 percent good. Like I found out when working on a 2008 Mitsubishi Outlander (vw engine from a Passat) the signal wire from the map was defective and no longer sending the information to the ECM. This can be seen in real-time diagnostics info when the engine is running. No changes in map sensor data the ECM. This in not a criticism and I hope it helps other out who come across the same issue .. Keep up the good work Gerard!! 😁😁
Thanks for uploading.. My audi a3 1.4tfsi rough misfires on cold start in the morning. But when I unplug map sensor it start just fine. I cleaned the map sensor etc but no difference.
Hi, looked at your video for MAP testing and have a question if you can please advise , I have a 2005 Skoda fabia 1.4 16v Petrol with a error code P0106 and P0170, I have tested the MAP sensor and the readings were 3.87v with no vacuum and 0.03v with full (20hg)vacuum, the volt reading was smooth falling through 0-20hg, would you say the sensor is working fine, regards Kevin
That little item in the middle there is a thermistor for the temp. measurement. Inside a body is a membrane with a piezoelectric element that flexes and creates a small votage which is used by the ECU as measurement. FYI
How do I know the difference between the four wires, in other words which one is power, signal, ground and or current, because you back probed 1 and 4, then you rested 3 and 4
Bro can you help me...my problem of my car ford ranger xlt... check engine, limpmood 2500 rpm only if try to accelrate the code read the scanner P0107 & P2227...the ( P0107 ay MAP Barometric Pressure Circuit Low Input ) (P2227 Barometric Pressure Circuit Range/Performance ) i try cleanng the map sensor but not change the check engine stay on the dashbord and the rpm only 2500..brother if i clean any sensor whn i back the sensor need to reset the ECU? Tnx...so appreciated
Hello I have a vw passat cc 2.0 tdi 2009 I get these two codes p0238 p0113.the problem is I changed the sensor back to the same codes I took out on the computer. Thanks for help
I tested the sensor connector with a test light, I got 5v for power but the signal blinks fast. I can't read the voltage. Is that Normal for the signal to blink rapidly fast or is the voltage supposed to be stable readable
Hey. My 320d has a hesitation/delay whilst on full ecceleration. Have maf, map sensor and egr valve cleenedd. Wat other possible things cud it be gerrard . Your knowlege wud be good
Quick Question for you if you wouldn't mind. what is the sensor on top of the EGR valve at the rear of engine where you are taking the map sensor out an what does it do in the system thanks.
Hi the 4 wire sensor with air temp intake built in ..live data what should temp read cold engine off and when engine is running and at operating temp..I'm having starting issues with my car no codes only thing that stands out is is air temp sensor from cold is 30 degrees more than ambient temp
I really like how you explain things so clearly. With so few views on this video I feel like I'm part of the elite who want to understand the workings of cars.
Sir i wana contact from you i from pakistan and i wana more information of cars because i am an auto electracian but not full konw about work +923404432940this my whats app number please contact me
It has so few views because he didnt actually make a video dedicated to testing the map sensor, he made a video of a vehicle specific remove and replace. Nobody is here to watch him remove it. Just the testing.
My sensor is just fine only when it is completely out of place the whole array of the sensor is completely out of place how do I fix it and if need to replace the entire cover of the motor head.
I just want to replace mine but I can get a bosch with the same long number but there is another number in a sliver foil and they all seem different what them other numbers mean mine is a 2.5 tdci 07 don't want fit wrong one
Seriously boys, you dont need a fault code for a faulty Map-sensor ! It can still work perfectly, but it sends wrong information to the Ecu, your car is going to run sluggish without any fault codes for this sensor.
I replaced MAP Sensor on my 2013 KIA Soul. It didn't solve issue. Problem at first. My mileaged digital indicator read 359 miles when I left home to work. When I arrived at work I noticed that my mileage digital indicator read 268 miles. My drive to work is only 65 miles one-way and that's mostly freeway driving on level ground. My gas gauge was at full mark when I left home and 3/4 full at work. Checked online for answers and asked around. Running to lean.. MAF or MAP Sensor is bad. My model doesn't have a MAF. So I replaced MAP Sensor. I reset computer and MAP by disconnecting battery. I drove car around and went on freeway. It looked like problem fixed. Later I drove car to get a few things not more than 1/4 mile away. Neighborhood and City driving. Phoenix,, AZ.. Digital indicator went from 322 to 320. Looks like issue is not gone. What else can saw cause rapid use of gas that mirrors bad MAP Sensor? No gasoline smell around car.
Great video thanks for sharing Could this cause the following issue? Engine is a Volvo Penta 5.7 Gi fuel injected sterndrive. When I launch it at the marina the boat fires right up. Runs great. I am able to turn off engine. Starts right up again a few more times. Then after an hour or so of running and engine has warmed up, I turn engine off and then it cranks won’t start. Sound flooded. I have 2 new batteries. If I put it in neutral and give it throttle and start it again. So I ease the throttle into neutral to idle and then into gear and I’m able to continue on my way. For this reason ai just leave the engine on all day even when drifting. I’ve replaced the IAC valve with no luck I’m being told by others to replace the low and high pressure fuel pumps Before I do that could the MAP sensor cause this?
Can't you just remove the sensor and test resistance in ohms with a multimeter on continuity setting? Without having to test it while on or energizing the sensor?
I really hope you might be able to help me. All of those problem you listed were happening to my vehicle. I replaced the sensor and noticed only a small difference in performance. My vehicle surges, like another sensor or solenoid is turning off then on. Any suggestions? I even replaced the turbo with a new one. Thanks
with everything i mean, spark plugs, plug wires, coil, switching injectors, measuring injector wires, cleaning the throttle body and intake, cam sensor, fuel filter and compression test.
You need to dig a lot deeper and focus on the spec problem, it seems like you have thrown parts at the problem without any diagnostic thought. My suggestion is a cylinder power balance test and possibly a cylinder leak down test. You need to determine if the problem is mechanical or electrical and proceed from there. All the best with it, as always if you are unsure, always best to bring it to a trusted repairer for a full diagnostic.
Video might have been useful if it wasn't for the annoying head movement. Buy a flexible camera clamp or a good tripod, anything would be better than a camera that's going back and forth
It depends on your vehicle, some vehicles like Ford name it the same on models - Manifold Absolute Pressure Sensor AKA boost pressure sensor while others just as an example, Volvo and BMW have models that will have a MAP sensor on the intake manifold and a boost pressure sensor on the pipe. My advice to say confusion is make a free call to your local dealership and speak with the parts department, after you give the VIN they will give part numbers and details etc.. I hope this helps, best of luck.
