SIMPLE MICRO FOCUS ADJUSTMENT FOR SHARPER DSLR IMAGES (CANON EXAMPLE)

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This is an add-on video to my sharp bird photos video and explains simple micro focus adjustment for sharper images using a Canon 7D Mark ii as an example. The same principle applies to other brands. For more info watch • Taking Razor Sharp Pho... - taking sharper bird photos
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My name is Will Goodlet. I am a wildlife, landscape and astro photographer working in the African Safari business. I spend my time exploring the dusty roads of Africa with my Land Rover, Basil.
I've been taking photographs for 40 years, first in Hong Kong, where I grew up and later to follow my dreams of a life photographing Africa.
📖CHAPTERS
00:00 Start
02:18 TESTING AUTOFOCUS
03:23 CHECKING AF ADJUSTMENT
04:19 COMPARING OPTICAL VS LCD ADJUSTMENT
04:49 PERFORMING ADJUSTMENT (CANON EXAMPLE)
#WildlifePhotography #MicrofocusAdjustment #SharpPhotos

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Опубликовано:

14 июл 2024

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Комментарии : 189

@umfilmmaker8253 9 месяцев назад

As a videographer switching to hobbiest wildlife photography, I really appreciate this tutorial! Thx. Subbed

@billz4795 3 месяца назад

thankyou - thankyou - thankyou. your are the first to explain the basics when using a DSLR focus via the viewfinder vs live view. this answers why the micro adjustment is only effecting the focus when using the view finder, when using live view the mirror is not in effect.

@WillGoodlet 3 месяца назад

Happy it was helpful!!

@timconn4280 3 года назад

Thanks Will. Very informative. Never miss a video.

@WillGoodlet 3 года назад

Thanks a lot Tim! This one was a bit of an admin video. :)

@flahertygamecalls 3 года назад

Thanks Will! You break it down nice and simple. Appreciate your channel.

@williamstewardson1646 3 года назад

Hello Will,, keen learner photographer here in rainy Sheffield UK. Loving your stuff, so clear and easy to understand. I will be setting abut checking all 11 of my lenses on my D7500 and D3400. Thanks for your help !

@WillGoodlet 3 года назад

William Stewardson happy to help - you have a busy afternoon ahead :)

@dinathunder3498 2 года назад

The best video I have seen regarding calibration 💛👍👍👍💛

@WillGoodlet 2 года назад

Thanks Dina :)

@kensweet6022 3 года назад

Hi Will. Found your channel a few days ago and saw this clip. Whilst I have done micro adjustment before, I found your take on it very interesting, especially with regard to the distance between the camera and the target (cereal box!) Most guides suggest anything from 5 to 50x focal length of the lens without any explanation as to "why" ! 50x is a long way when calibrating a 400 or 600mm lens (20mts + 30mts respectively! Canon's guide actually suggests 50x focal length). Your method of 5x is so much more practical and indeed logical as you explain how the greater depth of field at the long end of a large telephoto, when focused on a distant subject, tends to mislead, or at least makes it difficult to see the difference in the sharpness of your test shot. Added to this, if calibrated at 5x distance, then when you do focus on a subject at a greater distance, then that perceived sharpness, due to the greater DOF, is a real winner, thanks to the greater accuracy of the calibration. I have, today, just finished micro adjustment on both a Canon EF 100-400mm f4.5-5.6 L IS II zoom and a Sigma 150-600mm f5-6.3 Contemporary zoom, both paired with a Canon 90D, (same body for each lens) and the results, using your method and logic, were quite amazing. My lenses weren't so much amiss, but the ability to more clearly see, and subsequently correct the error was quite astonishing. I'm now looking forward to testing in the field. Many thanks for your channel. I am now a subscriber. All the very best from England, UK.

@WillGoodlet 3 года назад

Thanks so much Ken. Great to hear about your experiences with this. I can't see how anyone could tell the difference between shots at 50m! That's 2m depth of field on a 600mm F4, 3.3m on a F6.3. The scale would be redundant. I know that some of the calibration software Reikan Focal uses about 16m for a 600mm on a flat target that is analysed by the computer. I think having the target closer and using a tape, definitely should make it easier for a human complete the process. I also think comparing to the live view shot is useful because that's about as good as we can get it. Looking forward to hearing how the field test goes and thanks for subscribing too!

@tattaylor4786 3 года назад

Excellent, clear description of the process Will. I try to check the focus before and after a trip.

@WillGoodlet 3 года назад

Excellent!

@jrainsphoto 3 года назад

Excellent video, easy to understand. Thank you so much.

@WillGoodlet 3 года назад

Thanks for watching:)

@robertthompson6985 2 года назад

Great video. I knew nothing about that feature.

@edwildlife2896 3 года назад

This video came at the perfect time, recently have been experiencing issues with my Canon 750d back focusing a bit. This has really helped, thanks for sharing.

@WillGoodlet 3 года назад

Thanks for letting me know, so glad it helped. How's the 750D now? Behaving a bit better?

@davepastern Год назад

Thanks Will for a very good tutorial on this process.

@WillGoodlet Год назад

Thanks for watching David

@ronsteelman6025 3 года назад

Thanks again for your usual excellent presentation...I love your channel.

@WillGoodlet 3 года назад

Thanks Ron - I have to admit I thought this one might be a little boring (but necessary)! Appreciate you taking the time to watch and comment :)

@scottrushton453 2 года назад

Brilliant! Thank you.

@WillGoodlet 2 года назад

Cheers Scott

@tkermi 3 года назад

Good and well presented info, thanks.

@WillGoodlet 3 года назад

Glad it was helpful!

@linedancer111 2 года назад

Great, thanks for the info!

@WillGoodlet 2 года назад

Glad it was helpful!

@cmichaelhaugh8517 3 года назад

Excellent reminder to get this done! I have a DataColor Spyder LensCal sitting on my shelf unused.

@WillGoodlet 3 года назад

Sounds like a fun afternoon :) Thanks for watching Michael!

@MaemuMachete 3 года назад

Awesome video. 👌🏾

@WillGoodlet 3 года назад

Thanks for watching :)

@Twobarpsi 3 месяца назад

Great tutorial!

@daxio1485 2 года назад

Fabulous thanks

@WillGoodlet 2 года назад

Most welcome 😊

@kirkwest3721 3 года назад

Excellent video! i was also not aware that the Live View and Optical viewfinder could have different focus. It is such a good idea to do the Live View first so that one can directly compare, I am sure it will make one's decision making a lot easier when the focus is slightly out. Thanks for this, I know what to do in future.

@WillGoodlet 3 года назад

Thanks Kirk! Great to hear it was helpful and thanks for watching :)

@rinohals 3 года назад

Very interesting!

@WillGoodlet 3 года назад

Cheers Runo :)

@99pups 3 года назад

Well done and thank you.

@WillGoodlet 3 года назад

Thanks!

@martinbyrne6643 3 года назад

Good one ‘ a man that knows what he is about

@WillGoodlet 3 года назад

Cheers Martin :)

@erwinkruger-haye2698 2 года назад

Hi Will . a great Video, not sure why it only got suggested to me today 😁, but I wish I had seen this 5 years ago. Shooting Mirrorless now, so no longer relevant. I will share to the camera club though. So easy to follow and do. Thank you

@jcmendez1198 3 года назад

Hey Will hope all is well with you and the family. , Great video, very informative. Will check my 300mm 2.8 to see if I can fine tune it. Stay safe!!

@vimalneha 3 года назад

It will save at least €100 if sent to a shop. Thanks for sharing and showing so clearly

@WillGoodlet 3 года назад

A pleasure, I hope it works for you!

@oggbad 3 года назад

Excellent - I shall give it a go as soon as its stops raining :D

@WillGoodlet 3 года назад

Raining like crazy here too - lightning and thunder - real African summer storm. Thanks for watching and let Me know how it goes!

@DilipGajjar Год назад

You explain nice It’s very complicated if some one do service than I can adjust my various lens for canon 7D

@boulx 2 года назад

that vid made me suscribe / amazing teaching vid

@WillGoodlet 2 года назад

Thanks Nico, appreciated! Hope you enjoy the channel :)

@philbooth319 3 года назад

Thanks Will, this is clearest explanation and tutorial on this subject that I've seen to date. I might have missed it (apologies if so), but what aperture should I do this exercise, presumably widest aperture possible so that front/back focus is most easily identifiable?

@WillGoodlet 3 года назад

Thanks Phil, I reckon wide open is best. WIth a shallow depth of field so the changes are easy to identify and the camera / lens AF is at its most challenged settings.

@LifeOnLewis 3 года назад

Excellent explanation Will. I never knew that the live view and optical viewfinder could have different focus. I use a program called FoCal on all my body/lens combinations which can set microadjustment automatically on most Canon bodies. Can't remember if the 7D is one that is automated but I know the 6D is. If it is not automated the program tells you exactly what settings are needed. Also measures the 'sweet spot' on all your lenses.

@WillGoodlet 3 года назад

Thanks Les. Yes I also use Focal it seems to work pretty well and the nice thing about it is that it produces reports. I just wanted to make a 'bush fix' video for anyone who might not have the targets of software, or struggling with the issue while on a trip. Thanks for watching and commenting and happy shooting!

@petergottschling2597 3 года назад

My Canon 77D does not have the adjustment but did compare anyway it was fine between live view and AF with mirror.

@WillGoodlet 3 года назад

Good to hear that!

@b.bimmer4688 2 года назад

Hi Will, Thank you for another great and well explained tutorial ! Today I ran this process on my EF 24-105 f4.0 L USM II and my EF 400 f5.6 L USM whilst hooked up to my 7DII. After setting up de cereal box and my camera on a tripod, the fist shot I’ve made was in Live View followed by a series of shots starting from a -20 setting all the up to a +20 setting with a 5 point increment and what I found was that when reviewing the photos on my PC on both lenses I wasn’t able to match the sharpness of the Live View photo over the entire range from -20 to +20 that took. Is that common or is there any explanation maybe as to why that is or might have occurred …. ? Maybe I should ran the process again with a lager aperture setting i.e. f5.0 of f5.6 for my 24-105mm and f6.3 or maybe even f7.1 for the 400mm prime ? Looking at your video review of the EF 100-400 f4.5/f5.6 MKII again I noticed you mentioned your copy of that lens is sharpest at an aperture of f6.3, that got me wondering if my 400mm prime might be sharper on a lager aperture setting .... just curious I give it another go and see what I come with :) Here's some settings from the experiment I ran: EF 24-105 f4.0 L USM II Distance to subject 1500mm giving me a DoF of 600mm at 24mm and 300mm at 105mm focal length at an aperture setting on my 7DII of f4.0 600mm at 24mm FL might be a bit too large DoF for the wide end of this lens. I might need to run it again with a shorter DoF like 200mm by reducing the distance to the subject) EF 400 f5.6 L USM Distance to subject 4000mm giving me a DoF of 200mm at an aperture setting on my 7DII of f5.6 That being said, I found the default setting of “0” on both lenses to be best matching photo hence I didn’t change anything. Looking forward to your feedback .... Thanks in advance ! BR Anthony

@mikeregas3342 3 года назад

Great video and very easy to understand. Do you find this method better than using say a Tamron Tap-in console to adjust the lens?

@WillGoodlet 3 года назад

Hi Mike, I haven't ever tried one - have you got one, maybe you can tell me more about it?

@mikeregas3342 3 года назад

@@WillGoodlet I have one, but I am not sure how to use it. Tutorials aren't as easy to find on how to use it on a lens since you have multiple points of adjustment to each focal length. For example on the 70-200 I can add micro-adjustments at 70, 100, 135, and 200, and then there are the distances you make those as well for example at 70 mm you would make an adjustment at minimum focus length, hyperfocal, and somewhere in-between. So I am not sure how what the process is for applying the different distances. Do you apply at a minimum, then start over for in-between or just add all three. It is just really confusing and I was hoping for some guidance.

@odarrien Год назад

Thank you for this. Should this be done at the widest aperture of the lens?

@WillGoodlet Год назад

Yes, otherwise it’s not as obvious to see the changes.

@odarrien Год назад

@@WillGoodlet thank you much!

@FarleyLukkien 2 года назад

Thank you for this video. Do I need a tripod to do this or can I micro adjust also holding the camera? I'm asking this with regards to event photography.

@WillGoodlet 2 года назад

You will probably need to set it down somewhere and not move it

@esoxchris 2 года назад

Hi Will this video is a real help for me. May I ask at what kind of a distance should I be doing this test using a canon 500mm F4. Regards Chris

@WillGoodlet 2 года назад

Around 3 to 5 metres (if it focuses that close) around 5x focal length. Canon recommend much further away but the. You can’t see if it is out of alignment

@esoxchris 2 года назад

@@WillGoodlet thank you will

@MrDennisk4 3 года назад

Thanks Will for your video on Micro Adjusting for sharper DSLR images for my Canon 90D and my question to you is, do you need to lock down your mirror whilst going through the process and also what distance did you use with your 100-400mm lens, I took a guess at 33ft ?

@WillGoodlet 3 года назад

Hi Dennis, do you mean 'Mirror Lockup' ? I don't usually use that mode. When taking the Phase Detect (AF through the viewfinder shots) you just need to de-focus and let the camera acquire focus as it normally would. Then we compare that shot with the Live View Contrast Detect shot. We then evaluate for any difference. Differences can be caused by: 1) Shaky camera - use a tripod - 2 second timer - remote release etc... 2) Autofocus inconsistency in camera or lens (not a thing that Microfocus can help with) 3) Micro focus differences between contrast and phase AF systems - this is what we can fix here. I use a rule of 5 x focal length. So for 400mm I am using 6.5ft I know a lot of people say that is too short. But, at 33ft the effect of MFA on your measuring tape will be masked or made difficult by the depth of field. At 6.5ft it's easy to see. If you have the room and the light is good and you can use 33ft - it's no problem to do it at that distance either. As long as the two focus systems are in sync you should be good.

@MrDennisk4 3 года назад

@@WillGoodlet Thanks, Will for your speedy reply and yes, I did mean Mirror Lockup sorry my mistake, and thanks for the rest of the info which is much appreciated! Stay safe Dennis.

@etienneswart8700 3 года назад

I took mine to Nikon .. They set my D500 and 200-500 bang on

@WillGoodlet 3 года назад

Glad it’s set! I had another comment from someone with identical kit saying his was soft. Must be doing something wrong as have seen great results from this equipment.

@tysonator5433 3 года назад

IMO 3rd party lenses tend to need micro adjustments, ie sigma big zooms. I did not know about using Iive View as the base shot, very useful information to on my eos 7Dii ! What advice do have for this technique on sigma 150-600 contemporary ie which focusing distance should I use as yhere is switch for under and over 10meters ? Great videos BTW

@WillGoodlet 3 года назад

It's not a lens I have used but I think you will find it easier to adjust if the depth of field is narrow when you do it. So at 600mm you want to be around 3-5m from your target.

@JPLamoureuxsTravels 3 года назад

Best video I’ve seen on this subject buddy! 👍👌 it’s something I’ve wanted to do for sometime but always bottled out lol, I don’t get how far the cereal box\target (yes I bought a target tool to do this 🙄😂) has to be away from the lens 🤔 I’ll be doing it to a 100-400 zoom so is that 2000mm away? and a 600mm prime is that 3000mm away? And on 5d mk4 and a 90D bodies..... I’ll watch it a few times and give it a bash! 🤓

@WillGoodlet 3 года назад

Thanks JP, I hope it works out! You need to be about 5 x focal length (so for the 600mm 3m away - if it focuses that close??). It doesn't have to be perfect, the aim is to get to a depth of field that makes it obvious to you if the lens is front focusing or back focusing. If the target is 40m away, the depth of field will be so big everything will look in focus :) 100-400 also has minimum focus distance of 98cm - this could make it challenging for the 100mm end. I don't bother doing that end because at wider focal lengths the depth of field will be much larger anyway.

@JPLamoureuxsTravels 3 года назад

Will Goodlet perfect 👌 I’ll give it a try! My R5 should be here in a couple of weeks just before my 50th b’day 🥳 so I’ll be playing with that soon anyway, and I might of slipped and hit the button on the 100-500 lens too 🤨 ooops, well it is my birthday after all 😂😉👍

@WillGoodlet 3 года назад

@@JPLamoureuxsTravels I think the big Five O demands a few slips! Fantastic - please let me know what it is like with the R5.

@JPLamoureuxsTravels 3 года назад

Will Goodlet I will do buddy! I’ll do a little video just for you 😉👍 and it might have been a few more slips than those 2 I’m afraid lol 😆

@gyalbobhutia2825 Год назад

Will Goodlet, do we need the micro calibration with the mirrorless camera when using the F mount lens in the Nikon bodies. I have read and heard that it is not required for the Mirrorless. Then that option is given in the my Z6II.

@WillGoodlet Год назад

Hi Gyalbo, I'm not expert on Nikon - but you should not need to do this on any mirrorless camera as far as I am aware.

@DavidJohnBlackwell 3 года назад

Thanks for this video Will. Just one question , will this process work if you use back button focus rather than shutter button focusing?

@WillGoodlet 3 года назад

Yes absolutely! Makes no difference which buttons you use, it's function is purely to align the Phase Detection (optical viewfinder focus system) to peak efficiency for the lens concerned.

@igpoobah 2 года назад

Great video; so simple, thank you! I found it after buying a used 6d MK ii that was front focusing on all my lenses. They are perfect on my old 60D which has no adjustability at all. So I went through the process and had to go 20 clicks to the rear to either get them right or in the case of my 24-70, almost... but not quite. So I am returning that unit and will try another. I do have a question though. In the event that 5x focal length cannot be attained (some of my shorter lenses it just wasn't feasible, it wouldn't focus that close) I went with minimum focal distance. In fact, that was what I went with even on my longer lenses (up to 200) as it seems like that minimum focal distance at the widest aperture is going to give you your smallest focal plane and the highest degree of accuracy. I think. Would you agree with that?

@WillGoodlet 2 года назад

Hi Eric, thanks for watching. Yes, the main idea is that you have a shallow depth of field so that you can tell if the lens/camera is out of whack. The official guidelines is a much greater distance but for me that never made a lot of sense because the depth of field would be so large as to make determination of front/back focus near impossible.

@wolfgangrieger1246 3 года назад

Hi Will. Your comments to the neccesary distance for a Sigma 150-600 lens that should be 3-5m, made my day. No need for me to expand my house for doing micro adjustment now during winter. 🤣🤣. I have such heavy problems with blury images on my 90d that I changed it and bought a 5dm4. Unfortunately with the same result - blury images. No sharpness. 1% is sharp. No idea what can be wrong. No the last what I can try is to micro adjust direct at the camera (both). The adjustemt via the USB Dock doesn‘t solve the problem. Perhaps you have magic tick?

@WillGoodlet 3 года назад

Hi Wolfgang, wow that is a puzzling problem. It seems like a focus motor issue with your lens maybe? Is the focus inaccurate? You can check by manually focusing on the target until it is sharpest in Live View (After microfocus adjustment is completed). Take a picture and then switch to autofocus. Take 10 shots in autofocus but manually de-focus the lens between each shot. Use One Shot focus mode. If most of the 10 shots are not the same as manual focus, then your lens AF has a problem and Sigma needs to fix it.

@wolfgangrieger1246 3 года назад

@@WillGoodlet Hi Will, that exact what I did after viewing your video. I've taken 10-15 shoots to a micro adjustment card. At 600mm and approx. 4m distance I had a good image with LV and the rest with Optical View Finder all blury/back/front focus. At 150mm and 3m distance - LiveView ok - not good at all but ok and with OVF kompletly blury no chance to fix it. I talked with sigma and no I'll sent it back for a check. I bought it 08/2020 so I hobe that this is a guaranty case and can be fixed or get a new one. Thx for you help. The idea with the motor is a gread hint. Stay healathy and keep on with you great RU-vid videos

@WillGoodlet 3 года назад

@@wolfgangrieger1246 Ok, good luck, hopefully they will sort it out!

@khushallam1439 2 года назад

Hey man, Absolutely love that you're still replying to comments, however i have just 1 question and would really appreciate an answer. Does the microfocus adjustment only apply to canon lenses? Or can it also adjust other lenses such as sigma? Thank you so much and have a wonderful day! Definitely subbed after this.

@WillGoodlet 2 года назад

It works on my sigma lenses - so it should work on others too.

@khushallam1439 2 года назад

@@WillGoodlet Okay great thanks alot man

@DavGilmPF 3 года назад

Hello Will, owning a 100-400 II what distance to the ruler do you advice. (5x400 would be 2 meters but some people would advice 30-40 times the focal lenght). Should I change the distance to the ruler when measuring the 100 wide and again both 100/400 mm with a 1.4 extender attached ?

@WillGoodlet 3 года назад

Hi, my difficulty when using much longer distance is that it’s almost impossible to tell if there is a focus issue because the DoF is much larger. So Id say 5m max. At the wide end you are right, you might find it easier to reduce the distance to less so you can more easily see if it is out. I don’t agree with 30-40 times focal length because at that distance the Depth-of-Field would be around 20cm +

@joaopeixephoto3295 3 года назад

I discover your channel today. Great content! I have to do this test with my Canon 7D and the lens i have because i think one is not well "calibrated". You Canon 7D MK II is so clean. Do you clean it with some kind of product?

@WillGoodlet 3 года назад

Hi João, thanks for watching and commenting! No, I don't clean it except for a blower and cloth - but I do get it serviced by Canon, as a CPS member they do it for free for me.

@joaopeixephoto3295 3 года назад

@@WillGoodlet Thanks! Just a doubt. When you say in the video 5 times the focal lenght is for example i have a 70-200. Then i do 5x 200mm counting with or without the crop factor um APS-C cameras?

@WillGoodlet 3 года назад

JOÃO PEIXE PHOTO hi just 5 x 200mm. But it is not necessary to be exact. You just need a depth of field that is not too big otherwise it becomes very difficult to see any changes. Also at the 70mm end 5x70 could be less than the minimum focus distance. So u need to use your judgement. For the wide end it is also less Important because naturally the depth of field will be bigger and cover up focus inaccuracies

@joaopeixephoto3295 3 года назад

@@WillGoodlet Ok! understood! Thanks a lot!

@duncys 4 месяца назад

Hi Will, thanks for this. How accurate does your 45-degree angle need to be on the ruler?

@WillGoodlet 4 месяца назад

If it’s not 45 degrees it’s not crucial. If you imagine the depth of field intersecting the ruler you have two possible conditions: 1. Very steep ruler - difficult to see front or back focus for deeper Depth-of-Field apertures and wider lenses. Because depth of field may extend beyond the front/back of the ruler. 2. Very shallow ruler - easier to see front or back focus for deeper Depth-of-Field apertures and wider lenses.

@WillGoodlet 4 месяца назад

For very shallow Depth-of-Field either case should be adequate because it will not extend beyond the ruler

@muralinarayanamurthy3705 3 года назад

Thank you Will for the video. I have one clarification as I have a 7D2 and a Sigma 60 600 sport lens...where one can calibrate the auto focus using the Sigma Dock. To address focus issues should I micro adjust either the camera or the lens or will both of them need to be adjusted. Kind Regards Murali

@WillGoodlet 3 года назад

I think you may need to research this as I haven't used the Sigma dock. I would suggest doing a base MFA on the camera and then fine tuning with the dock?

@muralinarayanamurthy3705 3 года назад

@@WillGoodlet thank you Will. Kind Regards Murali

@djalilthehunter9932 Год назад

I'm having the same problem with the same camera, but with a Tamron 150-600 . lens g1

@phil_rennie_photography Год назад

Hi mate, me too except I have the G2. I don't thing Tamrons quality control is er..top notch? 😶

@duncanknifton6613 3 года назад

Hi gang... can you simplify something for me.. If my lens is focusing past the subject, do I adjust the Fine Tuning with a + or a - number... ( eg +7 or -7 ) Thanks

@WillGoodlet 3 года назад

From memory it’s a minus.

@fgb3126 3 года назад

Will, I have a Canon EF 24-105mm lens that I want to use on my backup 7D mark 2 camera. It seems to be slightly out of focus. Can I use in-camera fine tuning on this problem? or does it only work on "true" telephotos?

@WillGoodlet 3 года назад

The process is identical for this lens.

@fgb3126 3 года назад

@@WillGoodlet Gracias!

@gerryodonnell4554 2 года назад

Will, thanks for the video. It was very informative and very upsetting :-) After making some adjustments to my Canon 50mm prime, on a 7d mkii, I just happened to point the camera towards the computer screen, maybe 12 feet away. Took a liveview pic of the back of YOUR camera, tack sharp when fully zoomed in. Turned off liveview and the next photo was absolutely awful when fully zoomed in, and with every adjustment afterwards. Nice to know but does this mean I need to be shooting with liveview all the time to get better shots? I would be kind of old school and never use live view, it just doesn't seem right :-) Cheers, Gerry.

@WillGoodlet 2 года назад

Hi Gerry, thanks for watching. Live view is a bit of a pain in the but on DSLR's like the 7D2. Much slower than normal phase detect autofocus, so if you can get the adjustment correct that would be good. Which 50mm lens are you using? Just wondering because the 50mm f1.4 was notorious for poor autofocus. Part of the problem could be low light too, you may find it improves when it's brighter. I hope so!

@gerryodonnell4554 2 года назад

Thanks Will. Its the 1.8 and I was at f3.5 with it. Ah, I'll work it out 👍

@b.bimmer4688 8 месяцев назад

Hi Will, I've had a go at this with my Canon 7D Mark II last year, but recently bought me an R6 II. Having said that, did I get it right, that the Micro Focus Adjustment exercise is not applicable for mirrorless bodies like the Canon R6 MARK II in combination with EF lenses ? If so, I deffo got some user error to focus on 😅 Thanks again for this great tutorial ! BR Anthony

@WillGoodlet 8 месяцев назад

Hi Anthony, congratulations on the r6 ii - yes no need to perform MFA on the mirrorless bodies

@b.bimmer4688 8 месяцев назад

@@WillGoodlet Cheers ! BR

@shakunimama3043 2 года назад

Is focus calibration needed for 50mm prime lens?

@WillGoodlet 2 года назад

If the aperture is large (which for most 50mm it is) and you are using a dslr (not mirrorless) camera then yes it can resolve problems you may be experiencing. However, lens AF motors also play a role - some canon 50mm models are notoriously inaccurate

@randallcrist3881 2 года назад

I like how simple you made this. Thank you. But, I have one question... On DLSR cameras, is the lens being calibrated? ... or is the viewfinder being calibrated to match the LCD focusing when in live view with the mirror up? If the lens is being calibrated, then that would change the focusing on the LCD screen in live view too?

@WillGoodlet 2 года назад

The phase detect focus mechanism is being calibrated. The camera can’t use contrast focus off the sensor when the mirror is down. So we are adjusting the phase detection system. The lens is not affected at all

@randallcrist3881 2 года назад

@@WillGoodlet I see. So the phase detection is not used when the miror is up? Thanks!

@randallcrist3881 2 года назад

I watched your video again. You talked about it in the beginning.

@WillGoodlet 2 года назад

@@randallcrist3881 correct. But on dslrs phase detect is much faster. As it is the older and more mature tech. On mirrorless contrast detect has only recently become good enough to focus on fast moving subjects. On Dslrs contrast, although more accurate, is slower than phase.

@randallcrist3881 2 года назад

@@WillGoodlet Thank you for making that so clear.

@thesharpercoder 3 года назад

The micro-focus adjustment in the camera “moves” the focus plane closer to, or further away from, the camera. The negative entry in the video means the focus plane distance was reduced by -20 increments, which is useful for lenses that back focus, or focus in front of the desired target.. The positive entry part of the scale adds distance between the focus plane and the camera, which is useful for lenses that front focus, or focus in front of the desired target.

@ronaldccastle 3 года назад

Will does this mean that there's no need to micro focus with the new R5 mirrorless and RF lenses?

@WillGoodlet 3 года назад

Ron Castle Hi Ron, Yep it’s redundant on every mirrorless camera because they focus off the sensor.

@soak000 3 года назад

Hi Will, I am trying to pinpoint an issue with my 90D. One issue is loss of focus tracking (not related to AFMA), the other issue is that soft images at times. I am currently using a 300mm 2.8 II + 2x TC III. I am assuming I should do AFMA with the TC. If so, should I place the cereal box 3000mm away from the lens end? Thanks.

@WillGoodlet 3 года назад

Hi - so sorry not to get back to you quicker! I have so much to get through with Christmas coming up...like everyone! With regard to your question, it's a debate. The manufacturers recommendation is usually much further away, about the distance your subjects are. But the argument against that is that you can't judge the differences finely enough. 5 x focal length with the TC (3m) is what I would do in your shoes .. I guess you have done so by now though!! Has it made any difference to your shots?

@soak000 3 года назад

@@WillGoodlet Hi Will, no apologies necessary whatsoever, thanks for the reply. Well, it's hard to follow the manufacturer's recommendation, unless I always have the same distance between me and the subject. I did minor tweaking but I am not sure if it will make a big difference or not. Maybe +5. I will need to do some controlled testing in real life situation where I can quickly take couple shots in LV and OVF of a bird or something. I think my issue is that 90D is not doing focus tracking very well, and Canon is saying it's doing fine. Oh well. Thanks again.

@WillGoodlet 3 года назад

@@soak000 Possibly, after adjusting the Microfocus, carefully try some different AF cases. Perhaps it just requires some tweaks there? On the 7D2 these can be very complex - I know the 90D is said to have a simplified menu but it could easily be choices made there that affect it.

@davidsherman3462 3 года назад

After watching this video, I don't see any mention of mirrorless cameras being mentioned. Am I correct? thanks

@WillGoodlet 3 года назад

David Sherman mirrorless don’t require this because they don’t use phase detection autofocus. Only contrast detection. Historically phase detection was quicker and contrast more accurate. So if u used live view in a dslr you may have noticed AF was much slower than optical focus. It is only with recent mirrorless cameras that contrast af has been made fast enough for things like bird in flight. That’s why older mirrorless couldn’t compete with dslr for autofocus.

@andreleroux7484 3 года назад

Hi Will, I recently stumbled upon your channel and watched a number of your earlier videos. Thoroughly enjoyed them, also as Canon shooter in South Africa. A bit off topic regarding this video, could you please clarify a possible contradiction about your earlier references to 1.4 converter. In one video on the 100-400 mkII (I agree, a great lens) you vouch for the sharp results with the converter attached to the 7Dii. In the Video on the 7Dii itself you are less convinced about the converter. My experience with the 1.4iii+100-400mkII+5DmkIV combo I find sharpness wanting - except, maybe, for near-static birds/animals. As a result the 1.4 is hardly used. At 30 megapixels of the 5Div I can afford to crop in for sharper results. Any comments?

@WillGoodlet 3 года назад

Hi Andre, thanks for watching and the comment - sorry for the inconsistencies. I find my copy of the 1.4 sharp enough to be used often. I use it mainly on the 400 f2.8 with the 5D3 or 7D2. I like this combo because it is F4. On the 100-400 it's also very sharp to my eye (but I will say here I don't really think teleconverters should be used on very distant subjects in hot environments - and my feeling is that this is what accounts for most peoples disatisfaction). I prefer to shoot small creatures close by with less atmosphere in the way. On the 100-400 it's an F8 and centre point only, so it's not a great or flexible combination and it's hard to use it. I use it rarely for slower subjects at around F10. I often use this combo for video though. The 7D really likes bright lenses and I swap out my 5D for it and use the 7D as a kind of digital teleconverter on the 400 F2.8. I haven't actually compared the results of the 5D3 + 1.4 TC + 400 F2.8 vs the 400 f2.8 + 7D2 - but have always assumed the 7D2 is a better combination (I'm going to check!!) It's certainly slightly faster focusing. And as I said above, I often use the 7D2 + 1.4 + 400 f2.8 in environments like the Kgalagadi where the wildlife can be more distant. It's noticeably better in colder conditions if the shot is distant.

@WillGoodlet 3 года назад

Just did some quick calcs - judging by the numbers below I use it quite a lot. Using the 5D3 and 7D2 and telephoto lenses, 29% of my shots are with the 1.4x attached. Using the 100-400 + 1.4 TC = 17.5% of shots are with the 1.4 attached Using the 400 F2.8 + 1.4 = 28.8% of the shots are with the 1.4 attached.

@mido2k2 3 года назад

I have noticed a very noticeable difference with my Nikon D500 focus when using both 50mm and 17-50mm for portraiture, in Live view the results are pin sharp, when shot using the viewfinder they are noticeably soft and slightly missing focus. when you use the Auto focus fine tune it uses only the Live view focus, is there a way other than AFFT to do this same technique of micro focus adjustment? The video was very informative and confirmed that i was not going mad and that both live view and Normal focus uses slightly different focus methods to achieve focus.

@WillGoodlet 3 года назад

Focus issues can certainly make you think you are going mad. Sorry to hear you are having problems. I'm not a Nikon user, so please bear that in mind! I had a look at the D500 AF fine tune system. It is very different to Canon, and it seems it works by using Live View Focus (contrast detect) to change Phase Detect behind the scenes - without the user being involved? A quick read led me to a blog post by calibration experts Reikan Focal (I use this software) and I was interested to see that they said they needed to repeat the steps several times and also that Live View Focus needed to he exceptionally accurate or else variability was introduced. blog.reikanfocal.com/2016/04/nikon-d500-automatic-af-fine-tune/

@WillGoodlet 3 года назад

On a separate note, I have had Nikon users comment on another video saying that they found it difficult to calibrate and experienced widely different results. I hope that is not the case.

@patrickmontocchio 3 года назад

I had no issue with calibration of the optical viewfinder of my D500 with 200-500, 300 2.8, and 1.4x and 2.0x converters.All settings needed a small adjustment. I followed calibration instructions found on RU-vid and used a simple cardboard calibration tool. Will's method would have worked perfectly as well.

@WillGoodlet 3 года назад

Glad to hear that! Thanks for the info Patrick.

@mido2k2 3 года назад

@@patrickmontocchio did you use the Auto focus fine tune feature to tune the optical viewfinder?

@sheryljohn8065 3 года назад

Hi Will, I'm a newish subscriber and I'm really enjoying your videos, thank you. I wish I had seen this one before I bought a Focus Calibration Tool (as yet unused) when all I needed was a cereal box and tape measure! I do have a question about the distance between the camera and the cereal box though. You say 5x the focal length so when I am calibrating the wide end of my 100-400mm zoom that would be a distance of 0.5m but the minimum focusing distance for this lens is 0.98m. Any advice? Thanks again, Sheryl

@WillGoodlet 3 года назад

Thanks for watching Sheryl and so glad to hear you are enjoying them:) I think just go for minimum AF distance on that lens. The goal is just to have a big enough depth of field to see changes in adjustments but not so big that it becomes difficult to see change. Hope all goes well!

@frostybe3r 3 года назад

Glad I don't have to do this as I've moved forward with technology on mirrrorless.

@WillGoodlet 3 года назад

Just reminding yourself of the bad old days :)

@aussie8114 3 года назад

Now you just have to clean your sensor every week 😂

@frostybe3r 3 года назад

@@aussie8114 What..? Camera has a shutter to protect the sensor whilst changing lenses.

@PanoramaUnion Год назад

How far should the camera be from the object?

@WillGoodlet Год назад

I Mention in the video, it’s about 5x focal length but you can use your judgement. Ideally you need to have a depth of field that is shallow enough to show if the adjustment is correct

@PanoramaUnion Год назад

@@WillGoodlet so in case of 50 mm lens(on 80D) would it be only 25 cm?

@WillGoodlet Год назад

@@PanoramaUnion Yes. But you can use your judgement. The distance is only important to allow you to see differences in adjustment. If the depth-of-filed is too large (because the aperture is too narrow or the target is too far away) you won't be able to see the difference in front o back focus. For a large telephoto, say a 500 f4, 5 m to 10m is also appropriate because the depth-of-field would be 3cm. For the 50mm we need to move the target closer because the Depth-of-Field would be 2.7m at 10m distance. We need that to be something 1 or 2cm instead. So with your 80D this would be a minimum of 5x 50 x 1.6 (because you have an APS-C sensor) = 40cm at f1.8. You can increase this if you want. 60cm will give you a Depth-of-Field of 1cm and 80cm will yield 2cm. If you go less than this the Depth-of-Field will become so small that it will also become hard. There are no rules that apply to every camera, lens aperture and sensor size. You just need to keep the Depth-of-Field to around 5cm or less.

@PanoramaUnion Год назад

@@WillGoodlet Thank you for your answer. I will try this out.

@PanoramaUnion Год назад

@@WillGoodlet I tried to micro adjust the focus. I used Canon 80D with Canon 50mm 1.8 STM lens. I set the aperture to f1.8. The live view focus is almost always perfect. I tried to play with the +- adjustment, but finally stayed on 0 (no adjustment). It looks like the viewfinder focus miss the focus a lot. Every 1 out of 3 photos were not as sharp as the liveview picture. Is that normal?

@frankkolwicz9612 3 года назад

There's an even simpler way that I got from Roger N. Clark, clarkvision.com, that's done in the field without any tools or props and works especially well with telephotos: find an approximately vertical subject at a suitable distance (similar to your expected subject distance or more) and keep the viewing angle fairly low to the horizontal. The target should be big enough to fill your small AF sensor point and you must be able to see the focal plane on the flat surface it's resting on. I often use a water plant or a rock on a road or a small fence post or something similar. With optical AF, focus on a point on the object just above the base so that nothing but the vertical object is selected, then, without changing anything, switch to LiveView and examine the base surface at maximum magnification to see where the actual focal plane lies. Make whatever microfocus adjustment is needed and repeat until you're satisfied. I find that with changing temperature conditions that I have to do this a couple of times a year, but, once you figure out how to select a suitable target, it takes a barely a few minutes and you know you're set.'' Of course, you can tell your MFA is off by examining some photos. If you've consistently focused on a bird's head, but the back or something in the foreground is sharp, move the MFA as needed.

@WillGoodlet 3 года назад

Mister Clark is a legend. Thanks for sharing the technique here. Basically compare Live to Optical? Would work anywhere :)

@frankkolwicz9612 3 года назад

Yes, compare the variable PDAF with the reliable CDAF, the only trick is learning to pick out a good test subject easily. Some situations that look like they'll work don't show the plane of focus as well as you'd think. I often use a convenient barbed wire fence that has vertical strands of twisted wire between posts, focus on a vertical twist just above or below a horizontal strand and look in LiveView to see where on the horizontal strands the actual focus is. The fence posts don't work as well as they are too wide and that makes judging the plane of focus more difficult. Oh, and no need to make exposures. I do 4 or 5 repeats of the method, changing focus front and back before each one, if they are all the same, it's OK. If there's some variation, I do more and pick the most frequent accurate setting. Canon recommends doing at least 10 repeats at 50x the focal length distance, but I find that to be too far for 600+mm lenses and just do them at my usual working distance as above.

@frogsoda 3 года назад

Not an option on my 60d unfortunately.

@WillGoodlet 3 года назад

No sadly not.

@sunroameroverland 3 года назад

One question if using a 3rd party lens (sigma) will i still need to input the serial number or will it not even register a 3rd party lens? Thanks

@WillGoodlet 3 года назад

No I think it should work - I'll go test one quickly and let you know shortly.

@WillGoodlet 3 года назад

Hi Bradley, I just tried it on the Sigma 14-24 f2.8 Art and it works on the Canon 5D Mark iii. I know this lens was one of the first to be supported with lens profiles on canon cameras, so maybe your lens is different? I know you can also use the sigma dock (which I don't have).

@sunroameroverland 3 года назад

@@WillGoodlet Perfect thank you

@sunroameroverland 3 года назад

@@WillGoodlet Ok I was thinking the profile would be in the camera not the lens, It is new lens i just got and fortunately i also got the dock with it. Now i just need to go take photo of a cereal box.. HAHA thanks you Will

@WillGoodlet 3 года назад

My profile is in the camera - which lens is it? I think the registration number is mainly there if you have more than one lens of the same type - so the cam recognizes they are the same make and model but different copies? Then you just perform calibration exactly as in the video. The dock can do more that that I think? But you will have to tell me! Good luck

@fgb3126 3 года назад

I don't understand this LCD screen vs. optical viewfinder comparison. At the end of the video you say that the focus on the LCD should be same as with viewfinder. But, which were we focusing with the example? the viewfinder or the LCD screen? And how can I focus both when I am only adjusting one? I don't know if that made sense. Look for one thing I have never used Live View with my camera. That is terra incognita. I don't even know how to get there! So basing this microadjustment method on the LCD screen already loses me. Why can't I use the LCD screen to view the result of my microadjustment, by looking at the picture I just took? That is what I thought you meant. Will the viewfinder autofocus always be spot on and we are trying to get photos we take to be in focus? Oh hell! This is not the thing for this medium. I've read the instructions in my Canon 7D Mk 2 manual and it didn't make sense either! This kind of thing is what I am constantly struggling with.

@WillGoodlet 3 года назад

Hi, the LCD (live view) uses a different method of focusing. It is more accurate but slower. The optical viewfinder uses an alternative focusing system that is faster but prone to inaccuracies. The objective is to take a picture with the accurate LCD - this will be the best focus we can get. We then compare the focus achieved with the viewfinder to this image. This will show us if the viewfinder focus is aligned (as good as) the LCD. If it is good we are done. If it is not good - we need to adjust the position of the focus system uses in the viewfinder. Perhaps try to think through the big picture before trying to discover how to do it. If you understand that one is more Accurate than the other and that we need to ‘tune” one to match the other the rest should be clear.

@fgb3126 3 года назад

@@WillGoodlet thanks it is clear now.

@Stefan1968ful 3 года назад

I am happy this nonsense micro focus adjustment is history with mirrorless. I can't believe I bothered myself with this shit for so long time. Happy I made the switch to mirrorless, the Canon R5 rules!

@WillGoodlet 3 года назад

I'm glad you are happy with mirrorless Stefan. I think we have to remember that the AF system on mirrorless cameras has only just become good enough/fast enough (certainly for my photography the EOS R was hopeless and the Olympus OMD EM-1 Mark ii also). While DSLRs were nailing the shots for years. Tech moves on and I am also happy with the R5 generally.

@Stefan1968ful 3 года назад

Will Goodlet Hmmm...the Sony A9 was already there 3-4 years go, blowing away most of the DSLRs that time and still today top notch.

@WillGoodlet 3 года назад

@@Stefan1968ful I don't feel that 4 years ago is a long time. Nor that the camera was particularly affordable. I

@Stefan1968ful 3 года назад

Will Goodlet Yes, that’s true. I still keep my 1DX Mark II beside the R5, simply don’t want to break up with beast 😂

@tracyhall4648 2 месяца назад

I have a new lens, a canon EF 70-300mm lens f/4-5.6 ISII USM and cant get it to blur, What setting should it be at ? -20 +20?

@WillGoodlet 2 месяца назад

Hi, make sure the lens is at 300mm and open it up to f5.6. Make sure the target is less than 2 metres away. You don’t need to get the target to blur just adjust so that the target is sharpest at the point of focus. Also - what camera? This is only for dslr.

@tracyhall4648 2 месяца назад

@@WillGoodlet I have a Canon EOS 5D Mark 3. I will make sure the target is less than 2 meters away!

@flahertygamecalls 3 года назад

Thanks Will! You break it down nice and simple. Appreciate your channel.

@WillGoodlet 3 года назад

Thanks Tom sorry not an exciting topic :)