Thanks for sharing this, I have been quite frustrated thinking I was missing focus but deep down knowing that I wasn't. I will try this with my 60-600 Sigma Sports Lens and let you know how I get on. Thanks
I finally got round to doing this, my Sigma 60-600mm Sports Lens was far focusing at the long end. I altered the settings & saved them & now it's so much better. Hit rate has gone up by around 60%, thank you Guts 👏🙏
@@HarryTimmermans Although Canon says this (50x), I find the DOF is too deep and not as sharp as I'd like when wide-open at long distance. I have had best results at 10x focal length and about one half stop down... YMMV
This is a great tip and completely new to me. Thank you. This is a great channel. I only found it 2 days ago and already learned a lot by watching. One of my favorite channels now.
Good points, however, I have to point out, for other peoples’ benefit, that you cannot micro adjusts DSLRs that are generally under $900-$1000. Less than the double digit for Canon e.g. 70d can be micro adjusted but not the 650d. Any of these cameras, or under, 600d, 650d, 800d and I believe even the 77d! (all Canon rebel series cameras...cannot be micro adjusted). Hope this info helps others. DSLRs in OVF use, do not focus using the sensor, mirror-less do use the sensor. That's why, as a general use statement, mirror-less doesn't suffer micro adjustment issues.
If using a Tamron G2, use the tap in console. I had both front and back adjustments to set across the zoom range and at different distances, then purchase Topaz AI. It is mind blowing in adding texture and sharpness and eliminating movement blur.
This 6 minutes video has drastically improved my 60 years of photography, the last 30 years that I pursued and the next 30 that maybe I can. Wish I could thank Guts in person.
Thanks Guts, all my previous attempts at focus micro-adjustment ended before I started, seemed too complicated, too much effort or too expensive. Great and simple advice, well-explained!
@@kathykay4769 Hi Kay, Nikon user. I have read on a few camera sites, most micro adjustments require purchasing additional equipment. I have set up my 3 cameras individually with all my lenses using Guts' bush method in this video, and saved the settings. Have not repeated the exercise to see if anything has changed after 6 months, but found it easy to do and apparently quite effective.
@@leonbruggemann9375 Hi Leon, thanks for the response. Regrettably, I cannot find the settings on my D4 and D500 to be able to follow Gut's advice. Where are the settings? I think you have a d800 which should be similar to the D4. Someone suggested that maybe the top end nikon cameras do it automatically, but you appear to have found the settings . Can you help? - If necessary, I am happy to phone you (live in SB). I was going to wait till I was able to take up my winning prize in June with Pangolin and ask the amazing team there directly. However, not sure this is going to happen with this covid!
Thank you, extremely helpful, I have been back focussing on birds in flight and stationary birds with my 5DII and 400mm f5.6. The curious thing is that the lens and camera have been assessed by the repair shop and they said they tested focus and all was o.k, but my field experience tells me otherwise (I had dropped the lens so it wasn't tack sharp-lens element alignment issue). Now we have just purchased a 7DII for more reach, so will check with that camera as well. Will let you know the results later today...:)
@@guts-pangolinco-founder6386 Hi Guts, big thanks to you! I found that my Canon 400mm f5.6L needed adjusting to -8 on my 5DII and -6 on my 7DII. I used a tape measure on a diagonal from the edge of the dining table to the floor, this allowed clear view of the number being focussed on at 3.5 metres. I chose 1000mm as my focus point. To assess the results, I just zoomed in on the cameras back screen and it was obvious where the focus was resting. I set the cameras up in the following mode on a tripod-100 iso, mirror lock up 10 second delay, aperture priority f5.6, with only the centre point AF sensor active and rested that AF sensor on the 1000mm increment of the tape measure. By making the adjustments, the focus was sharp from 20mm either side of the 1000mm mark, i.e. 980mm to 1020mm, after which the focus softened quite noticeably. The first tests showed the lens was sharp from 1995mm-1035mm, just catching the mark being aimed at, but with the majority of the focus zone behind the mark. So in the field, this was resulting in soft birds eyes, mainly because this rearwards focus shift, combined with my focus-and-recompose technique (using the centre focus point). For larger birds, I have recently started shifting the active focus point to the birds eye, yet still got some soft eyes. So this micro adjustment of lens focus will make a world of difference! Of course we can shoot at higher iso and stop the lens down more to give more depth of field, but this affects image quality, and my 400mm f5.6 has no IS, so I am already iso compromised....but one day I will upgrade to 400 f4 DO, or 500mm f4, unless mirrorless creates something similar to the Olympus 300mm f4 (600mm equivalent on full frame sensor). So if you have lens back from repair, regardless of what they say, test AF micro adjustment! The only small question I have is whether the focusing range will also be centred at greater distances? The old rule of sharpness that the focus zone will be 1/3 in front of the focussed point and 2/3rds behind the focussed point isn't the case for close ups-where it becomes 1/2 in front and half behind. So is this test a close up, therefor at greater distances it will still give 1/3 in front and 2/3rds behind? And thank you again for an incredibly helpful video, sometimes we need to be assisted through the technological battlefield and you did that with honour! regards, Guy
That "little" bush trick does a "big" job for any lenses:) I am a Nikon user, not sure if there is such a micro adjustment. I will have to check, but still this video helps me a lot . Like you said , there are many programs out there , but a simple trick with a cup and the tape will do the trick. Very helpful. Thank you very much for sharing such a great tutorial.
Thx a lot Guts! A nice change from youtube videos trying to sell you expensive stuff! Just a few common items and the job is done... Got a problem like that on one of my lens, gonna go rectify that right now!
@@guts-pangolinco-founder6386 hi the image I want to enter in the competition. I only have in JPEG because I the dump ass deleted the raw can I still enter?
Great, thanks for this tips but one question. Witch was the distance beetween the camera and the ruban exactly ? I tell that because I read usually this distance must be aroud 30x focale If you have a moment to answer, thanks
Good stuff! This is very important, and I do AF micro focus adjustments with all of my lenses! A couple of other tips I would like to add: ** In addition to using the 2-sec timer (or a remote), enabling mirror lockup will also serve you better. ** For the most accurate results, the plane of focus must be exactly perpendicular to the lens. Meaning, your lens needs to be pointed perfectly straight at the target - no deviation either left/right or up/down. So you need to adjust and align your tripod and target (or ruler, or tape measure) just right so that they are perfectly level (and using the center single autofocus point) - worst case, just do the best you can. The LensAlign MKII has an alignment hole that supposedly ensures a perpendicular alignment (I think it’s actually patented if you can believe that); but I won’t spend that much money for a cheap, thin piece of flimsy cardboard (if they had made it from sturdy plastic or metal I probably would. Also, if you want the “long lens” calibration target, you need to spend almost the same amount again for another longer piece of thin flimsy cardboard - no way). My only problem with this whole process is that I went from owning ONE body 3 months ago to now owning FOUR bodies; couple those 4 bodies with 12 lenses, as well as a 1.4x extender (the lens/extender combination is stored in the camera as a separate calibration from that of just the lens alone), and I still have A LOT of calibration work to do! One last tip: Keep your micro focus adjustment settings documented in a spreadsheet in case your camera settings ever get reset (which ALWAYS happens when I get my bodies back from Canon, regardless of whether I instruct them not to).
Definitely going to try this. Have a Sigma lens on my Nikon and I feel like it's been front focusing. But I drank a beer after discovering that last time out not a coffee. LOL
I made the adjustments Very easy. Was able to successfully get focus on the eye if several small birds that were relatively still. This method was so much easier than buying correction tools (marked grids that are surprisingly expensive). Thank you!
Thank you so much Guts! Superbly explained. This is undoubtedly one of the finest videos on intimidating topic of lens microadjustment... I will not be surprised if anyone who has spent his precious money on buying those expensive kits will repent, after watching this video. Have been watching Pangolin videos done by you and your team.... And i have happily subscribed your channel. Would like to know more about how can i join your safari... Cheers
Great video Guts. Only ? I have is...distance from sensor location to the 30? Is it important to know or will adjustment stay consistent throughout the focal length once adjusted? Guess that was 2 ??’s. 🙏🏻
I recently acquired a Canon 90D and added a box fresh second hand Canon 100-400 Mk II. Both at very advantageous prices. The results for wildlife have been a trifle underwhelming. I've looked at other videos on Micro-Adjustments and they were all a bit fiddly. Well Guts I got a mug and a tape and after 10 minutes most of which was hunting out the right settings menu I took 3 pictures and got the focus bang on with the third. Brilliant. Thanks greatly.
Do you think i can do the same with my nikon z7ii!? Because i use it only for macro photography, i do ophthalmology and its not so sharp at all! Thanks a lot if you answer me or not!
@@PangolinWildlife Hi... Sorry another question. Does the Camera will store the calibration for each lenses? Or I need to calibrate the lens all the time before using it .... Thank you..
I thought you were doing this “in the field.” No, it is in camp. I have done this in the field, literally. Focus on a pebble in dirt, and do the same thing. Easy peasy. But...my ultimate solution was to switch to Sony mirrorless a7R3 and 4. Now Canon is there as well. The point is mirrorless does not experience disagreement between focusing system and film plane because they are one and the same! Nice video, just don’t forget you can tweak your micro focus literally during the shoot. Done it many times. But because of that drift (and other stuff) I shoot mirrorless.
None of that will prevent a mirrorless from getting out of adjustment - it's just less likely, *and is only applicable when using adapted lenses* . When it happens the process for calibrating it is identical to the one presented here. Shoot, Chimp, Adjust, Repeat.
That's helpful, but only when your camera is having that menu function. My Nikon D5200 is not considered "professional" enough for having that feature I suppose.
MFA is useful for studio guys who shoot at very similar distances and lighting. If you try to MFA at different distances, using different targets and under different lighting conditions you'll get different results. Canon's own MFA guide states 'Maintain a distance that is the same as when usually shooting When it is not possible to ensure the distance, shoot at a distance of 50x the lens focal length.* The * goes on to say 'Precise focus adjustment may not be possible with test shots taken at a distance that differs significantly from typical actual shooting distance.' - this is key. In wildlife photography subjects are typically at different distances and with moving subjects the AF point moves on the subject and the plane of focus shifts when following subjects as well. MFA is not very useful in those scenarios because the conditions that were present during the MFA no longer apply. More so, typical wildlife shooting distances usually translate into enough DOF even wide open. MFA won’t make a perceptible difference. When encountering focus problems there are a lot of other things to look at before resorting to MFA. Most AF problems occur when using bad technique or shooting in conditions that don’t allow your AF to operate optimally. I’m sure someone will chime in and note that mirrorless cameras do not require MFA. This is true but mirrorless AF systems face a host of limitations not shared by their DSLR counterparts which often make them less desirable than DSLR for wildlife photography.
Great tip and video. I have a question though Guts. A few days ago I bought a 400mm f5.6L lens. I probably should do this exercise when a buy used gear. Tried doing this with the camera body that I'm gonna use this lens with (7dmrkii), and using spot focus it focuses all over the show. How do I correct this?
If you were focused on the eye of that bird and the bill was out of focus, I would’ve just assumed it was a depth of field issue. I have that same exact lens, but I’m still new to it. If you’re shooting a wide open aperture, would the entire head of that bird (from the eye to tip of the bill) be expected to be in sharp focus at that angle? Because I’ve been using this lens to photograph tiger beetles. And even though I’m doing my best to get their eyes in sharp focus when facing toward me, it always seems to focus more on the body. I’ve been assuming it was a depth of field issue, so I’ve closed down the aperture for more success. But these beetles are TINY! So perhaps it’s a microadjustment issue. Although, I’ve checked it before using the technique that Canon suggests (using a flat object propped up on a grassy surface), and it seemed fine. I’ll try your technique and see.
Wow, this may be one of her most practical tips I’ve ever picked up and likely explains some of the surprises I’ve seen while reviewing some of my bush pics! Thanks and how do you get the name ‘Guts’?
Hi James, glad you liked the info.... -Guts- that's a loooong story! I will tell you one day around a camp fire with a few drinks... how does that sound?
As a panning freak, I'd like to point out that "out-of-focus" and "blurred" are not the same thing. In my panning shots, I want the background in-focus and blurred.
Hello Guts, excellent tutorial. You mention get as close possible where the lens can focus with the maximum zoom. my questions, other tutorials on micro adjustment talk about placing the camera and lens at 50 x the mm. since the measuring tape is on shallow angle, do the camera have to be level with the focusing point or higher to be able to see the number. I am a bit confuse, would you please help. Thank you so much for your excellent work on other videos as well.
Your video helped me more than words can tell. I bought the Sigma 150-600 Sport, out of a thousand photos, maybe 5 would suit me. This was so simple! The difference is amazing. I also use a Canon f4 600 and same thing, it was 7 points off when I adjusted it. Thank you!
That's not true that this adjustment cannot be done on mirror-less camera's. I have a m4/3 Olympus OMD EM1 Mark II and it has this ability, they call is "AF Focus Adj."
I think camera's AF algorithm has some randomness to it. Try repeating focusing on number 30 on the ruler 10 times. You might notice that focus plane is shifting, or it might not, because this is a very simple, "toy" test case. It also depends on distance, aperture , and focal length. But, I agree, if camera is back focusing, you can set AF MA to, say -10, or -20. But t he thing is one can't tell the difference between -10 and -20 adjustments (I couldn't). I had this issue with brand new Canon EF 85 1/4. It was way off, so I set it to -20 and it was OK. If you want precise focus, manual focus is the way to go. Or even AF with "body" micro-adjustment:) like this: take test shot, and note the amount of focusing error by looking at the picture. Say the error was about 30mm. then AF again, correct the error by moving backward or forward slightly, and take the shot and you have the focus where you wanted it to be. It only makes sense for wide apertures. At F/4 the camera would not know where to focus. It has a range where it can safely place the focus plane. In the end it just throws it in the middle of this range, or something like that, and that can be different from where you would put it manually.
Great help...Did 2 7d M2 cameras and 3 lenses in less than an hour. This is no longer intimidating. One question.. I assume if you add an extender you will need to redo the focus adjustment.
This is the best tutorial. Clear and concise. I just calibrated my canon lens this way in the backyard. I we t to Zimbabwe and Zambia in 1998 as a young woman, I’d love to go back now I know how to take proper photos! Thank you from an Aussie
I like your coffee cup + measuring tape method, simple setup. So, if you had both on the table, was your camera in the same plane as the tape? Meaning, how high was it on the tripod since the table would be much lower? Or does that not matter? Thank you.
Great advise. Another video had me doing the micro adjust from the distance I expected to shoot. This is the way it should be done. It actually works great both in the field or in your kitchen. Thanks. I almost got rid of my 150-600 lens. You saved it.
Hey Guts, This is a very informative and useful video to get sharp images in the field if your camera lens is out of sync. I will be grateful if you can demonstrate this on a Nikon DSLR D750 / Nikon D500. Thank you.
How's that good stuff, I'm finding out more things about my camera from you guys and it's free not like canon collective in Australia that now charges for a collective course. Keep up the great work
