I’ve always just replaced the solenoid and never figured out how to bench test them. I tested 3 in my sprinkler stuff box. All worked. I would have thrown them out. Outstanding. Thank you.
Testing the solenoid for resistance with a multi-meter will also verify a good solenoid in 95% of cases. For those 811 solenoids, you should see between 20-30 ohms(20-60 for all solenoids). In either case, visually inspecting the rubber seat on the bottom is also important. The solenoid might activate but if the rubber seat on the plunger is damaged, the solenoid won't function properly.
This comment saved me money on a sprinkler tech having to come out to my house. I tested my solenoids, and they made the clicking sound that is shown in this video, but apparently something else was wrong with them. After hours of troubleshooting (I couldn’t imagine all three front zone solenoids going bad at the same time), I ended up purchasing one solenoid to see if it was the issue, and it was! I went back and bought two more, and now all my sprinklers work again! Thank you!
Exactly, with the multi-meter, the ohms should remain at a given value say 40.2 to 40.5 ohms (small fluctuations are normal). If you see wild swings in ohms, for example, 35 ohms to 48 ohms, and back down again and it keeps fluctuating then you have a bad solenoid.
This is the info that I was looking for and the best info. Went to both in the box home repair centers and was told switch terminals and if not working replace control panel. I know from the past with the heat in Southern NV that these thing go out about every 2 years, but I had both go out at the same time.
Great basic test Reid! I've got a sprink valve far away from power, that's not working. I can easily eliminate the solenoid from the equation if this works. If not, then it's the solenoid (Most likely!). Thanks again.
Thanks a lot dude, i was looking for this info for a long time, and u showed us a wonderfull simple and clear method to test the solenoids, thanks a million and greetings from Spain
BUT....As a result, the impedance of a coil is several times higher in VAC APPLICATION than in DC APPLICATION . As an example, using a 24 VAC rated solenoid valve with a 24 V DC power supply (OR WORSE 28 V DC) would most likely damage the solenoid because the effective current flowing through the solenoid would be much higher with DC voltage.
This does not always work. Using this method my solenoid looked good. (it clicked) Upon placing it back in the valve this method turned on the sprinklers. But the zone would not function from the controller. I tested the solenoid with an ohm meter and found it to be defective. (11 ohms instead of between 20 and 60). A new solenoid fixed the problem.
Solenoid fires when checked this way. Controller clock resets when the zone is started, doesn't start nada, although it tries for about 5 seconds and just resets all the setting I have on it. However no issues are seen if a different zone is connected on the same port on the controller clock. Verified the issue follows the zone as to where it is connected on the controller ports. Symptomatic zone starts manually and resistance test on it reads 28Ohms with the solenoid in the sercuit. What gives ?
Turned out the end of the ground wire with which the line was connected was cut right at the end of the exposed wire. So the circuit was not closing. Surprised the controller clock resets itself that way losing all setup I kept on it. At least this is what I realized was wrong because I checked everything else. When I corrected the issue and made sure the ground black wire from the line is connected to the grounding port on the clock that zone worked like a charm. I don't have any other explanation.
Hey can u attach a momentary switch to that? I’m trying to make a tennis ball launcher. I was planning on using your setup but adding a button to release the air.
Bonez P - IDK, but I think it would be easy to hook up a switch from the batteries to the solenoid and see what happens. Just remember to get a low voltage switch. Let us know how it works!