Experience talking here: When you do this, the zero dollar option after the install is to find your proportioning valve (next to or under M/C), remove the stud from the front, pull off the o-ring and reinstall the stud. This gives full pressure to the rear disk brakes. Failure to do this reduces the pressure to drum brake levels and therefore doesn't really improve the brakes. Of course an adjustable proportioning valve (Ebay, etc.) is also a great option.
I just did the Liberty rear disc brake swap, but got new Powerstop rotors, shoes, snd calipers rated for towing. Crown makes parking brake cables for 1984-1996 disc brake conversions that are a drop in fit (it’s intended for their upgrade kit but works with ZJ or Liberty rear disc brakes on XJ as well). Mounted the ZJ hose brakes on one of the leaf spring bolts. I am stunned by the increased stop speed on these. And the parking brake grabs so much better than the drum brake - only need to pull handle maybe 1/2 way, and it’s solid grab even on steep hill. Wow. Rear disc brakes are awesome for Cherokee!!
@@tortron I went to Harbor Freight and got a one and a half ton aluminum jack for mine because those little trolley jacks are so damn dangerous be careful with that thing they're really unstable I'm a master tech and I've seen a lot of those things tip over That's another good idea though The jack handle would be the perfect size it's about a half inch inside diameter that will compress all three of those little springs
i did the conversion last year on my 8.25, but i used a kit. Only reason why, is by time i got done finding the parts i needed from junk yard and then new calipers and parking brake shoes and other random stuff to do it. for a few hunded bucks more give or take. I could just do the kit, and it already came with everything.
The Liberty parts are a direct bolt on. No backing plate grinding needed and use the backing plate studs from the Liberty. Also, the front XJ wheel studs fit the rear axle and are the correct length for the disc brake rotor.
@@motownXJdad9565 its the same thing you just dont have to grind out the backing plate to make it fit, I think you get ZJ brake lines instead of the liberty but if you put them on the backing plate before you pay they probably wont charge you for them
I did this swap on my 94 2 door. Definitely worth while. Hard part was getting the e brake cable mounted. I used a cable clamp u bolt and drilled a couple holes in the arm where the cable needs to hook up. Not much room but an option if you cant do the adapter pieces.
Jeep has a way of making things so simple but every now and again you'll find some clip or bolt that looks like it was designed in a different universe. Lol like that e brake clip and the 2 bolts at the top of the bell housing that take an "E" socket like e35 I think
I know this is an old video, But when your trying to get that ebrake cable off. slide the box end of a wrench over the clip, Usually a 13mm and the cable clip will come out super easy.
I got the G2 DISC BRAKE CONVERSION KIT FROM 4wheelparts was a direct fit. Didn't have to change the stud. No grinding was easy install. Its pricey and it Didn't come with emergency brake cables. I have 95 jeep cherokee xj with 8.25. With out ABS
when you scavenge your parts either from a ZJ or the KJ 8.25 for your swap, remove the 4 studs from the housing that hold the backing plate on so you can re-use them on your housing so your studs arent too short. remove the plate, put the 4 nuts back on so you dont booger up the threafs on the stud before you pound them out with a hammer
I would try to get the emergency brake cable well away from the leaf springs. The movement from the leaf springs won't take long to rub through the emergency brake cable... Just an idea.
I did basically the same thing but didn't bother with the proportioning valve. WJ front brakes and KJ rears. I still need to try it on glare ice to see how the brakes perform, but its not looking like it is going to be a problem. Add a spare tire carrier with a 33" on it, and with that alone, you'll probably want the more rear brake bias.
Well done I’m going to save this one. I’m thinking it is probably best to do this at the same time one would install a Torq locker, which sounds like a future project. And I assume that locker is still preforming well and was a good choice for the XJ. BTW in the warnings that you placed you did forget to include to mention California prop 65 🧐 Maybe next time, I actually have to include that silly warning with the XJ bags I make.
All you recommending using liberty park brake cables you must have no lift cuz none of the Ford or liberty or grand cherokee cables are long enough with my lift. Also flop shop doesn't make the 8.8 cable adapter any more. So Im fabricating my own adapters using the long cables that are with the 8.25 drums.
I wonder if you take 2 XJ body's cut them in half forward of the C pillar weld the 2 halves together make an "overland" trailer. replace one of the fuel tanks and use it for water. the other tank for spare gas tank.
I have a 1998 XJ Classic 4x4. Getting ready to do brakes all around then seen your swap video. Does my model year fit the process you’ve explained here? Thx
With the axle out it would have been the perfect time to replace that short wheel stud.... And if it has a lot of miles on it I might have replaced the wheel bearing too.
You only need 3 threads for full bolt strengh. You could cut those down to half way down into the nut and as long as they are torqued its all gravy. I have my u bolts cut to 3 threads showing above the nut way easier to deal with then the way those long winded bastards are from the factory.
I squirm every time I see a video with what I think might be harbor freight jack stands. If they're # 56371, 61196, or 61197, please google the recall and don't use them. Well made video! Thanks
I wish it would have explained the brake line situation a little better. I'm a little lost on how to adapt the stock brake line in the rear to the caliper. Sure it's easy, I just like to be thorough
First step is to mount the hose to the axle tube. You don't have to do it exactly as I did if you don't have a welder, just make sure it isn't going to contact anything and rub through. Then you need to shorten and bend the brake tube slightly to properly reach the ZJ hose.
@@DRTJon oh I see. So you just cut and replaced the existing brake line to meet up with the caliper line? Also what year zj can I pull this stuff off of?
@@slightlymodded1 correct it's cut just a few inches. Any ZJ with the V8 will definitely have the D44A rear that had disc brakes, I believe this was available in all production years of the ZJ
What did u do about the brake proportioning valve in the standard master cylinder did u replace whole thing replace valve or u running it with drum brake pressure on disc and pad
Hey Bleep(lol) I just bought my first jeep(2000 4.0 straight six 4wd Jeep Cherokee) I don’t know anything about Jeep but I’ve always wanted one. Think you can answer some questions on how I can get it started?
I did the liberty disk swap, I even put in a HD brake booster to replace my old stock one. It still seems like I have the same braking power. I did forget to change out the spring/valve. Could that small part make the difference if I forgot that part??? Btw I’m trying to stop 35s still feels like stick brakes.
My 01 Sport has the 15 inch OEM steel wheels. It looks like the the XJs had 16 inch wheels at least. Would I be in for a tires and wheels investment to make this upgrade work, or will the XJ parts still fit?
Quick question, what is that little contraption in front of the master cylinder with the hose that goes to the firewall? Do you have a video explaining what that is by chance?
I like my 8.8 swap with disk brakes better. :) Definitely do the ZJ proportioning valve, it makes a world of difference. I would drive backward and slam on the brakes and the front would lock up but not the rear. Once I swapped the internals of the proportioning valve they can lock up going forward.
I still I the drum brakes on my (# XJ. Going backwards I hardly have any brakes! Scarry if I have to back down a steep hill since I can't stop! Would the KJ proportioning valve fix that?
The general consensus is that the disc brake proportioning valve allows less rear brake pressure, right? I have WJ fronts and KJ rears and left the drum proportioning valve alone. I need to wait until some snow falls so I can check the brake bias. If you want to keep the drums, I would recommend an aftermarket proportioning valve and tune it how you want it. Any significant amount of trailer tongue weight and the braking in 2wd is terrible with that setup.
Do you have to use the E break pads for the swap? because I cut mine off because I didn’t want it... Could you assemble it was just a rotor and backing plate and caliper?
You could, the parking brake shoes are just along for the ride until the cable is pulled. However even on a trail rig a mechanical brake is not only safer (what happens if you rip off a hydraulic brake line and then get into a steep descent?) but I often use mine to help cut a sharp turn or just provide some drag if needed on a crawl
Get rid of crappy ABS? LOL. Many ZJs had ABS, I believe if you get the parts from one with it you’ll have wheel sensors that will work for your XJ but I can’t guarantee it since I have not done that
89 is probably not a Chrysler 8.25 axle but a Dana 35. 8.25 out of a 96+ is an easy bolt in swap (grab the drive shaft too if you can, or do an SYE and new driveshaft) or you can do the Ford 8.8 swap which can be found with 4.10 gears, LSD, and disc brakes already, but will require new leaf spring perches and some other mods. It just depends on your location for what’s available at what cost, and skill set for which one is best for you.