I know this video is pretty old but the magic you're looking for is a "needle positioner". It has a part that hooks to the hand wheel and then it connects to the servo motor under the table to tell it when to stop the needle in the right position. Contact your dealer and they'll be able to sell you an upgrade kit. Also it looked like your handwheel cranking was a little stiff. If you're using a brushed servo motor rather than brushless, it'll have a brake built in that actuates when the pedal is all the way back. If so, you'll want to gently press the pedal forward (not far enough for it to start sewing) and this will disengage the brake and allow you to spin the handwheel easily. Another thing you might want to look at is adjusting the steppage, which controls how high the walking feet raise up when they dance their little jig. Setting it lower will give you smoother sewing over relatively flat projects while setting it higher will allow it to stomp over bulky seams. You'll also want to make sure you learn how to adjust the presser foot pressure so that you can achieve the right balance between gripping the material so it moves through the machine smoothly, while also not stomping footmarks into impressionable materials like leather. The 1541 is a fantastic beast, and with a little learning you'll be able to do amazing things with it.
This comment is spot on. To add to it, the brushed servo motors/controllers typically installed on low cost table setups don't have many features. You may not be able to use a needle positioner with it. If you get something like an Efka AB620 controller, DC1250 motor, and needle positioner you will be able to program it to stop needle down, up, double/single start back tack, double/single end back tack and many other functions (like thread trim) if your machine supports them. You will also be able to adjust the top speed limit.
I loved stream-of-consciousness Jess! Please do more “sit and sew” videos. It’s so great to see the learning process in action, and the wallet turned out well, especially for the first effort. (Not intended as a backhanded compliment. 😂)
Great video (as always!). Couple of things... the magnetic guide should be placed long side against the fabric assembly, which then helps guide it in correctly. (Not with the short side towards the needle as you did.) The other thing is about the needle stopping in the up or down position... that only happens if you have what is called a NP (Needle Positioner). On my industrial machine it was an option and I really love it. The NP can be turned off or set to leave the needle up or down when you stop stitching. I like mine in the down position which then makes it a lot easier to turn my fabric. And for going around corners, even with a slow motor speed, at least for me that's often still too fast and I stop stitching as I near the corner and then turn the wheel by hand to slowly navigate around the corner. I hope this helps. And your videos have been an amazing help to me and I thank you (again) for making and sharing them. I only started sewing a year ago (since Covid) and now I own a domestic machine and two industrials. Hooked, I tell ya, I'm hooked!
I really like that size/style. Nice show. Just an FYI you don’t back stitch on leather or vinyl. You go the the wrong side and pull your top thread through and tie/knot the bobbin and top threads together. Clip close and add a dab of seam sealant. Thanks for sharing! 👍
When I first got my industrial it scared the holy beans out of me. Even at the slowest speed I felt like it was getting away from me. The best tip I received for helping with that was to cut a short length of a pool noodle and put it under the foot peddle, and it worked ike a charm!! Its soft enough that it doesn't block the peddle from lowering, but is firm enough that you can't go pedal to the metal with it. Great video!!!
If you have the Yuki 1541 industrial you don't have to put anything under the pedal to slow the machine down the Yuki motor has a dial where you can lower the speed down mine is 2 years old and it has the speed dial you can run the machine up to 3000 stitches per minute or all the way down to 10 stitches per minute very very nice machine I love it
Oh my gosh this is a great tip! I have been struggling with this since I got my Juki1541S. I felt like the machine would hum and hum but not move and then when it started it would take off like a bat out of you know where. I’m going to try the swim noodle trick. I also noticed if I started sewing with the needle in the down position it helped.
@javierLopez - I have this motor dial on my machine its in the slowest speed but is way faster than 10 stitches per minute - may be I will have mine checked to see if it is working properly.
Not sure if this was already commented, be sure to put your top thread through the last hole at the top of the needle before sewing and your thread will come straight down the needle. 😊 Great video 🎉
I use this machine for sewing leather all the time. Hard to tell from your video, but when you start to sew make sure to hold on to the the thread tails (this gives it a little more tension and avoids loose threads on the underside). Also, always begin your stitching with the needle down, this avoids a "birds nest" and also prevents your needle from unthreading if you your tail is not long enough. Since this is not like our computerized home machines, when you use a new bobbin, make sure to pull up the thread, if you don't you will get a thread jam, I was always forgetting to do this at first. Have fun!
I loved this - you are so inspiring…. At 73, you have me wanting to buy an industrial machine! Never in my life would it be cost effective, but wow, love to watch you. Thank you for posting all your wonderful videos!
When you go around the curves, make sure you needle is down, and hand crank it around the curves. And use more stitches around the curves. It may takes 5 or 6 little turns around the curves to get it too look smooth.
I learned to sew on industrials when I was 18, it's the only sewing machines I used for over 10 yrs as I was a seamstress in sewing factories. It takes a little bit to get used to but you'll become a pro in no time.
I've been the owner of a 1541 for about a week, so this video is very timely for me! I have felt exactly as you did, but I'm getting the hang of it. Please do more tutorials using Beastie.
Thank you for this tutorial! It was like the best thriller movie ever when you were sewing through all of the thickness, I was on the edge of my chair watching with squinted eyes in case the needle broke! Ha! The industrial may have to be in my near future! - Fellow Okie
mistakes are learning processes, laugh, learn , & move forward love. nice machine. Very machine has it's own rythym . 2 of the machines i use in my volunteer groups are same make & model, they both are different to run. i call them the olive twins, teaching is something i enjoy, i don't party so i grab old machines when i can , i paid $20 for one of them & had the other donated to me for teaching others . a little blessing
This is an old video but I love how you gushed over Beastie's ability to go through all those layers ... I am researching for an industrial machine for bag making, and dreaming of the day I outgrow my Juki tl ... For now, I just tune in to RU-vid to watch people sew on this machine.
Love that machine ....I had a Juki MO 816 Serger that is total complicated, Every time I called a mechanic $100 was spent just for him to walk in the door,before U-Tube I couldent figure out how to thread it even with a manual....but u really teach yourself after a while as long as the passion for sewing is their you did good !!!! like your style keep it coming
Finally had time to watch the rest of the video. LOL. You definitely can sew heavier fabric with that machine. I have used it on 2 layers of 7 oz leather no problem. If you do get nervous about thick seams, yes you can shave the leather but on leather the thickness you are using a nice hammer on a solid surface will work wonders on flattening layers etc. When using leather, it responds and softens with heat. So for your project when you turned it right side out, take a hair dryer and slowly heat the edge area up (not to close as to burn the leather) then cover with a press cloth and hit the edges with a hammer, you will get nice curves and flatter edge seams to stitch on. Honestly, I think once the leather edges are smooth and flat I don't think the top stitching is even necessary,
Love it that you got a 1541S. As for stitch lengths it depends on the fabric used. If I do not back-tack I leave long ends and with a sewing needle I pull outter thread to wrong side, tie well and used a thread zapper or lighter to burn off thread. In general when I'm working with quilting cottons and canvas I use 3.75 and TS with a 5 or one line below 5. When working with vinyl I set stitch length at 4 and for TS 5 to 5.25. As for your machine's speed there are 2 methods to reduce the speed. 1. change the pulley wheel on the motor to a smaller diameter (this is what I did). 2. get a Speed Reducer setup; this requires a 2 pulley system. This 2nd option should reduce speed to where you can take one stitch at a time. Okay as for that nob in the back is for when you tilt your machine back to check the oil reservoir...in order to do this tilting you first need to pull out the Knee Lift. As for Needle down there is an option for that as well. But you need a brushless motor with needle positioning. Check with your vendor. Corner go real slow....sometimes I hand-crank if it's a tight curve. It's a bit of a learning experience....been there. You will be amazed how the 1541 can go over really thick seams. Good Luck. :~)
Jessica - Great job! Yes, please! Do more sit and sew! We get to see the triumphs and tribulations all sewers run across and it makes us feel less critical of our own work! Thank you, thank you, thank you! You did amazing! Perfection isn't always the goal - trying and learning is the goal! Keep giving us videos - love them!
Just got a Juki and am scared to death of it. No sewing experience ... needed to add this option to our business. So I really have a lot to learn. thanks for posting this....
For an industrial machine,it is really quiet and I like that!! I've started making tote bags from jeans and I'm convinced now that I need to invest in an industrial.
the nub is for when you tip the machine to oil it. the machine rests on it. Great video. Makes me want to use my Juki. I used to make back braces with mine. Thank you for your Great videos.
I loved this!!! Please do more of these!! Watching you figure it out as you go, makes me feel a kinship for ALL the times I go through this myself. 💖💖💖 I also have a black cat, Batman! My little old panther! 😁💖😍
Definitely get the synchronizer....it’s a GAME. CHANGER!! And a little trick for you- you can program it to stop with the needle down...and then if you press back on the foot pedal with your heel and the needle will go back up!! It’s wonderful!! I will say, I’m not sure that they are available for all motors so it depends on which one you have on your machine. Also...longer stitch length for the leather....like a 4-4.5 for assembly and 6-7 for topstiching. Have fun...we’re all enjoying watching you!!!
I have a Sailrite Fabricator and it's similar to your Juki. I was watching your apprehension on sew multiple layers(so funny) it will handle a lot more than you will probably throw at it. But I will say i feel my Fabricator has more slow speed control than the Juki. But maybe this will sew out as you sew more. All this from an 80 yr. OLD retired supervisor Industrial engineer. Love your video's.
This is so funny because you are my teacher, the bag maker that teaches and inspires me. I'm so glad you have this machine I felt so alone for the last two weeks trying to get used to it. Now I can ask you questions about it and we can discover things about it together. Yay !!!!!!!!!!!!
I love this! I think it turned out great. I can't wait to make this. I liked how you struggled, questioned things, etc as you were sewing. When I sew something for the first time I'm always saying similar things so it was nice to see you doing the same. Definitely made something new relatable and now I know I'm not the only one.
I saw your facebook post about this video and i apologize for being late to the party. I have chickens and turkeys that i tend to every day as well as running a business, so I never get to watch anything until after 9 or 10pm. I appreciate that you are not afraid to show how awkward it is to learn a new machine since you make everything else look so easy ha ha!
I hope someone eventually explained what a needle positioner was for your needle stopping in down position you wanted. I installed one in one of my machines and I absolutely love it . I plan to add one to my other two industrials.
Okay, so I know this video is from 2 years ago and I am little late to the game.... but I just got my Juki (DU1181N) Saturday so I am search for videos just to help with getting me use to what and how an industrial does. I love how you explain and show what you are describing....I found it very helpful and I love the way you talk to us like we are learning together vs. talking to us like we should already know this stuff.
This was fantastic. I've seen other youtubers use industrial machines, but I've never seen anyone explore the machine itself this way. Very informative! Thank you!
I've been watching your videos for awhile. Thanks for all your hard work! After I purchased my industrial machine I took a class with The Brown Buffalo and Canvasworker in California to learn more about making bags and using an industrial sewing machine. It changed my life. I highly recommend at least checking them out if not attending a class or even better, a collaboration video. One of the things I learned was how to sew with a guide foot. I noticed that they were always sewing with a guide foot installed on their machines. They left the guide foot on in every sewing scenario except when they needed to get closer to a zipper. After I started using the guide foot and my top stitching went from a beginner level to professional level almost instantly. The class itself was worth every penny. Some of the information I learned would have been near impossible to find online. The staff at The Brown Buffalo were some of the nicest and most helpful people I've ever worked with. They took the extra time to answer every question I had regarding industrial sewing and binding. Try a 1/4 inch right edge guide foot on your industrial machine. It was the best attachment I've ever bought. I got mine from TeamWorkSales Sewing Machine. And take a look at The Brown Buffalo. Both will change your life! Side note, I would love to see a video using some 500D or 1000D Cordura Nylon or XPac fabric in a project. RockyWoods.Com carries basically anything and everything when it comes to industrial fabrics. I hope for the best and thanks for what you do!
This was my mother's birthday. Lauren Mormino top stiches @ 5 & 3 for seams. Give or take for the odd piece. I've enjoyed watching you discover your JUKI.
I loved that you shared this with us. Some people get so over whelm that things are not perfect. I loved how you just kept moving forward even though you were unsure of the out come.
Fyi, last night I finished making a new top cover for a patio umbrella. My JUKI Du 1181n sewed through 11 layers of Sunbrella Canvas fabric. Impressive! I'm loving my first JUKI machine. I used to work at an awning shop, so I'm used to an industrial machine. My machine has an additional part I can add to have the needle down option. I may add it later.
Watched your video this evening. Very informative. I picked up a Juki 1541S a few years ago from a woman who bought it and then decided she was too scared of it to use it. I traded her a Janome P1600 for it. It's been in storage until this past weekend, when I finally pulled it out and set it up. It had never been used. Still had the test threads in it. One thing that I would point out, which I'm still learning about myself, since I want to do leather on mine, is that there is a needle series specifically for leather. it's 135X16. Not the 135X17 that you used. It probably isn't an issue for a project such as yours, but the 135X16 needles have a variety of styles to provide various stitch styles, and to handle different thicknesses of leather. Groz-Beckert lists 11 different leather needle point types. Pretty amazing.
To make curves easier for me on fabric I'm not used to (decades quilter, new bag maker) I actually draw the seam allowance so I don't have to pay attention to the edge, I just work one stitch at a time ON the line and one less thing to worry about. Takes a few more seconds to mark, but I do that with most things except quilting.
Hello love the video. I do upholstery and work with leather. I also have a Juki 1541 S I have a suggestion. Especially for leather and vinyl. To keep it from warping. So half your panel in opposite directions. Start mid way and go one direction then flip your panel and sew from the mid way and run the opposite direction. You may want to buy topstitch presser foot eventually it is wonderful at keeping you straight. Hope you continue to enjoy your Juki. Oooops forgot to mention you can thin your leather edge so you have thinner seams.
Girl, you are just so much fun! You remind me of my youngest daughter, you're so cute! The first one of your videos I ever saw was the coffee sleeve video. All of my children are Starbucks junkies and they loved those sleeves. I made so many of them. Jess, you have inspired me to get my machine back out and try some new things. Thank you, love your channel.
Hey Jess, loved this video. You are so real, nothing fake about you. This is why you are such a great teacher. You really inspire me to sew because you explain so well and do it live. If something goes wrong, as it sometimes does, you don’t cut that part out. Soooo, when I goof, I don’t feel so intimidated ,thanks to our Jess. Love love love your fun personality, don’t ever change.
I loved that video. Your glasses are very cute on you (speaking from a person who wears glasses). I loved hearing you talk things thru…I do that. Sounds like I’m not the only one who can relate. Thank you for posting this. The journal (?) turned out great…that leather is so rich looking.
I have an Juki DDL 8700 industrial Machine. 12 Layers waterproof Canvas sewing like Butter. I love my Machine. Curves are the best with Needle down and Handwheel sewing.
I believe that knob is an anchor for an extra thread post. Probably want to have your product Guide nearby. Watch the RU-vid tutorial as well as get some tab stickers to tag-reference your guide book. I'm excited for u. Take your time. You will be a juki-master in no time😉
I really like this video kind of doing things because its more authentic than the really cleaned up version, here u get to see the real stuff how its done, your points of concern and triumph, so thanks Jess, its been educational to watch, keep them coming when u can.
Loved the video, your stream of consciousness and under the breath mutterings (sounded like you were encouraging yourself). This is probably one of the best "demos" of a machine I have ever seen. Juki should be jumping up and down with praise for such a genuine video of learning a new machine. I love the pattern you used. I made two for my grandkids this past Christmas, one with vinyl and one with waterproof canvas, on a domestic, and my machine did argue some with me as those thicknesses exponentially grew. I wish I had room to bring in an industrial, but I am plumb out of space!
Not sure if someone has answered this for you but.... keeping the needle in the down position every time you stop will require a need position synchronizer. I have the Juki1181N and that what i have to do that. Without it it’s mostly random where the needle will stop. Many people don’t have a needle synchronizer and just hand crank the wheel to the down position. It becomes habit when you do it a lot but i do love the synchronizer even though it was a pain to install lol 😂 Anyway, great video, love watching the process. Great job
Are you going to make more bag tutorials using the Juki? Your tutorials are very thorough and easy to follow. I learned how to make the Brooklyn Bag by watching your tutorial. Thanks
Thanks Jess for the great new Sit and Sew! Keep them coming, they are great! I love learning new things, especially with your down to earth teaching style. You give me lots of inspiration! Bravo!!
Hi Jess. I love your videos. Thanks for making them. I only have an industrial machine to use so it’s fun to see you starting with your first heavier machine. You are easily my favorite RU-vid person. Mike
You should get a needle positioner for your machine. It allows the machine to stop either needle down, or up. Also, by pushing on the back/heel of your foot pedal, you can raise or lower the needle to the other position. It's a game changer!
Glad that this video was posted when it was! I went to a garage sale over the weekend and picked up a Juki TL2000Qi machine for a great price with tons of extra feet and accessories! I have been looking for a semi industrial/industrial machine for a while. And eyeing them. But haven't bit the bullet due to price. But finding the one I did was a great price for me. And I am so glad I have it. Now I am going to rewatch this video. I already have on my list to order some new thread for the machine that will be better suited for the machine I have over the other machines I have. I am also excited to this week sit down with the machine and sew up another boxy bag. My domestic singer does okay at most of the bag until the part of sewing the side tabs in and it struggles. So I think this will be a big change for me there in not struggling at much.
I just put a needle position synchronizer on my 1541S..the bummer is that you need a motor that will accommodate the programming, so I needed to buy a new motor too. The upside is that now I get the down position all the time which helps a lot with my right shoulder from turning the hand wheels on industrials for so long. Loved your video!
