I’m fbo with the plm v2 header + q300 exhaust n it actually feels really good, people knock on this combo but it’s actually really really good n it’s not loud but definitely can hear it when u get on it, your setup reminds me of mine but more expensive lol
I believe the Ktuned header I used to have and PLM V2 are identical. It’s definitely a good setup, I’ve never heard the q300 in person but I’ve heard a lot of good things about it.
bruu your 8th Gen is so fucking clean I legit was talking about running this set up on my 8th Gen and I haven’t seen anyone yet show it like how you did 🙏🏼🙏🏼🙏🏼
I like:) going supercharged soon, I have your setup now but with hybrid intake installed, you will love it, sucks you live in cali, in Washington I can have a bumper dump pipe lol they don’t give a fuuu
I did it myself. You have to take off the door panels and drill out the piece that holds the fabric. Then you can change it to whatever fabric you want. I made a tik tok about it a long time ago if you want to look for it, my account is @nickpanyanouvong
I had this exact setup on my '08, it was the cleanest sounding Honda I've ever heard ... got a lot of complements as well. The only issue is that the doughnut gasket always leaked, I even tried three different ones before finally giving up on a permanent fix.
@@seanellis5696 Stock gasket, included one and I think one from an S2000 from a suggestion on 8th civic forum. Hopefully you dont have any issues, I read some other guys welded in a flex pipe eventually.
Pro's: - Easy to work on. - Aftermarket parts (some decent and worth using reliably) - Good turning radious, lots of space - 6 speed manual, good interior + speakers/stereo system for modern time with aux - good braking/ handing/ control for a mid-modern car - k24 swaps are very cheap once engine blows Con's: - GOOD quality parts, bearings, suspension are quite $$$ and harder to find including quality suspension components - k20 platform is gutless in stock form - k20 has a cast issue known to mix oil/coolant causing slow failure over time - k24 are cheap, but having to swap your car before 200k is a pain coming from a well over-engineered japanese platform - Transmission requires corrective engineering solutions to fix shifting issues. (shift bushings, base bushings, 15k MTF fluid change, Slave + master + line replaced with quality aftermarket containing NO* extra delay valves, and lastly high mileage clutches are all gunked up leading to the cliche stigma of bad shifting issues in this platform**) Every car has it's pros and cons, this platform isn't for everyone. All platforms require some research to have a long lasting vehicle.
I’m going all stock had the full bolt on and man i think I’m just getting old thing is just too loud 😂, also how much louder is that exhaust compared to the stock one? but how do you like the head unit do you recommend?
Bro I added a exhaust header and intake all from skunk2 but after my shifter was so stiff my gears didn’t even wanna go in really I wanted to ask if you know what could be wrong
Probably a dummy question, i have a stock civic si coupe, if i will buy the skunk header, do i have to get any extensions for it to work without the catylic converter and the rest of the stock exhaust? or is it good to go after just replacing the header?
I’m in the process of doing the alpha header with full race and OMG I didn’t think it would be this hard. Still not done and going on 3 days lol. Question tho, did you use the bracket that’s supplied with header? Is it necessary?
I honestly have no idea what the bracket is for 😂 . It’s not necessary. What’s causing you the issue with getting it together? If it’s your first time it’s definitely quite a process.
@@npvfa5 yep my first time. Getting the oem out was a pain but got it done. I’ve only got two jack stands also lol but lining up the test pipe with the flange and trying to bolt it up underneath was hard enough I ended up calling it a day after like 5 hours.
Yeah it’s holding up, my header doesn’t hit the subframe, but there still is some wheel hop. I recommend getting the upper torque mount as well. That will be one of my next upgrades
If you have a header then cold starts are definitely gonna be louder than stock, but not enough to get in trouble or have neighbors mad. I have a friend with just the full race exhaust and cold starts sound the exact same as stock.
Hello! I have a question. The header skunk2 alpha the outlet is 2.5 and the full race have 3” inlet? This match perfectly like plug and play? Cause in the website of the full race have 2 option 2.5 and 3” inlet :( Anyone can help me?
Hello, so if you want to run your exhaust with the stock header you will need the 2.5 inch inlet on the exhaust. If you’re only ever gonna use the exhaust with the skunk 2 header then the 3 inch will bolt up perfectly.
I agree the oem headers are a pain, I already removed mine many times so going deep into the process wouldn’t have been very useful since I already have some of the oem parts removed like the heat shield. There’s lots of other videos on how to remove the header, but I will say that you do NOT have to lower the subframe.
Yeah I used the provided donut gasket. I heard some people use the s2k donut gasket but this one didn’t leak so I didn’t see a purpose in getting a different one.
This version has the 3 inch inlet so it will only work with a race header. If you want to use the stock header make sure you get the one with a smaller inlet
No, most headers, including this one, come with a defouler for the secondary O2 sensor so you won’t get a CEL. If you have Hondata you can disable the second O2 sensor as well.
The state ref does a full inspection of your cars emission system. Essentially, your engine needs to be completely stock to pass and have your car street legal again.
