I love that he says "If you don't understand what just happened then home for you is to figure it out." Every climbing video on youtube should say something like that.
I started climbing in 1994. I’ve done alpine climbing, big wall, rock, ice and mixed climbing. I’m a Rock Climbing Instructor and also an IRATA Level III, Instructor and Assessor. This guy is a fantastic Instructor and I am happy for him to take me back to school. B.
I've been climbing for nearly a decade and know most of this, but it's such a valuable resource I'm just gonna donate to you for taking the time to make it. Cheers!
Same here i just like to learn, I am an Arborist so the rock climbing stuff is a bit different and like he said its always good to know things even if you may never need to
I absolutely love your content. As a new climber your channel gives me all the information that I need - how the gear works, how to be safe, how to push limits, etc. The format is perfect for me and it's readily digestible. Keep it coming. I greatly appreciate what you do.
I have watched this now in full for the third time over the course of 9 months. Each time I absorbed more and understood certain details better. This video is a nice refresher and I will keep coming back to it, because your way of explaining thoroughly with this relatively low pace just makes me more confident. This is especially true when having to make decisions in unexpected situations. No matter how much you practice dry... on the rock, pumped, windy, under load things are just always different. I love how you not just say "this is how its done", but explain why you do it that way. Watching your videos gives me the tools to explore myself and make decisions based on pros and cons. The many positive comments of experienced veterans and instructors builds even more trust in your content. Thank you very much for that!
Wow just last night I was multi pitch climbing. Was anchored in with a sling that was a step behind me while belaying. I had no idea this was not recommended sheeeeesh! Thanks for the video
These are excellent videos and very easy to follow. Having been climbing for 55 years (44 of those as a IFMGA guide) all over the world I would strongly recommend them to those seeking knowledge about ropework and use of climbing equipment. Keep it up.
As someone who's been sportclimbing in a gym for 3 years now, and who's wanting to make the transition to outdoor climbing, this course is invalluable! Thanks so much for taking the time to put this together, it's gold!
Awesome videos. Thank you so much. 21:48 - I also like the Adjustable dynamic lanyard the most. What I do about "the extra tail dangling around your harness" - I extend it to be around its max length, clip it to my harness and then tuck the hanging rope under the harness strap on my leg. Somewhere on the side works the best, as the rope is not in the way. And a try to raise my knee as high as my flexibility allows, to make sure that the tucked rope is not limiting this move.
WRT equipment inspection: Rated gear also has a serial number. I keep a spreadsheet with all the serial numbers for every piece of gear (categorized), date of manufacture, date of last use, date of last inspection (not counting field inspection before use), purchase info, and notes about anything that could make the gear marginal (eg got left in a hot car or held a fall factor >1). Makes it easy to ensure I fully inspect everything annually. Probably overkill, but I'd rather have a bit of excessive caution when it comes to gear, particularly as I climb trad.
Fantastic video, good job, it's looking to be a fantastic library of climbing safety knowledge! Regarding connecting slings with a larks foot, I was taught that connecting two, different diameter slings with a larks foot is extra risky, as the skinny one can easily cut the thicker one. Especially when the skinny one is Dyneema and the thick one is Nylon
Started climbing 18 months ago. As a 58 year old novice your videos are so helpful in quickly and reliably getting to grips progressively with terminology, equipment selection and climbing skills and technique. Thanks.
I think i agree with pretty much everything in this video. For the via ferrata, you're absolutely right. Dont fall. If you're not exactly confident about what you're doing, remember that if you're at least two on a via, you can also have a form of belaying to ascend the via. This can ease a lot the experience for beginners.
Sehr informativ. Und sehr sauber gesprochen. Mein Englisch ist nicht gut, aber ich hab fast alles verstanden 👍 Ich bin der Dyneemaschlingen Typ. Leicht und vielseitig einsetzbar.
As a complete novice, just looking at safety gear for challenging hiking routes, these videos are a treasure trove of well presented educational climbing gear guides. Highly recommended.
Your videos are top notch! It’s nice to know all the options and pros and cons especially for being new to buying equipment it’s hard to know what you should get , but this clears it up very well!
Great video, you go into the important details and highlight the difference between static and dynamic belay, without useless blabla, often seen in other YT channels.
A great video and a clear and thorough presentation, thanks. A comment for the test when you are using a rope to cut a sling, the Dynema heats up and then fails. It changes behaviour at different temperatures. When it is heated up it can stretch and deform more easily and it's tensile strength is reduced at that point. However once it has cooled it will stay deformed, but substantially recover it's strength. This is less of an issue when climbing, but when a dynema rope or sling is 'working' hard (under high load and tighter radius or a friction anchor like bollard wraps, then it heats up under the high load condition and reduces it's strength when dynamically working under high load. Keep up this good work.
Perhaps one thing to add to the overhand knot in a sling; for example for the extended repel setup you showed, is to clip the leftover loop into the carabiner to avoid any issues if the knot slips. This is what was taught to my for outdoor lead climbing years ago
Hi! Thanks for videos!! Regarding attaching slings on harness my preferred method is using a bowline on a bite on tie in points of harness...that way the loop of sling in tie in points is equally long as the belay loops and doesn't squeeze the harness tie in points( and sensitive parts...😁). Some people says that a very skinny dyneema sling girth hitched to the belay loop might cut it easily under load because the hitch gets tighter and tighter under load...using the bowline on tie in points fixes also this potential issue...
Aaron, the bowline on a bite uses quite a lot of sling length. Do you then use a 120cm sling instead of 60cm for tether? Also, do you dress the knot with 2 different loop sizes to be able to clip to different distances from the anchor? I see that as an advantage of the bowline on a bite.
@@DrStephan yes...usually i use a 120 with the bowline on a bite and a simple knot in the middle, so I have the tether in the longest "loop" and repell attachment in the shortest "loop". You can do just a short tether with a 60 cm sling..
I am a little late, but after watching Ryan's videos on how belay loops break, I think this is a very good idea! Hirth hitches seem to have a huge impact on the material, they are connected to (same problem with the wire loop of friends).
I use the kong slyde attached to the harness. No awkward reaching to adjust it from the anchor point. Impossible to lengthen without unweighting and tilting it down. Still quite easy to adjust when needed. However, the rope is important. Mine came with a 9.0mm rope and after a lot of use, the rope developed flat spots which allowed it to invert on itself in the slyde. Switched to a 9.8mm rope. No issues and still feeds nicely.
Back some 17 years ago I actually tested to fall on a 60 cm dyneema sling in an indoor gym where I worked. Nothingbrokean d I was uninjured, that's not to say it didn't hurt or it was a good experience.That was the most static catch I ever had and one of the most stupid experiments I've done. Had the sling been 120cm or more I would surely broken my pelvis, this is where I felt the hardest strain. Great vid!
The structure and clarity of the videos is surprising, also the support of experimentation. I have never seen this level of professionalism on other climbing or youtube channels! and translated subtitles! cheers from Argentina!!
Yeah I was worried he'd injured himself in the face with the knife, while doing a video explaining how to climb safely that would have been quite ironic xD
Thank you so much for these videos! You explain things so clearly and might even save my life. I recently got some rappel and ascending gear to access new areas while hiking and feel a lot more confident using them thanks to your videos
Great video. Even though I am climbing and doing alpinism for few years I still found out something new. Cutting with knife and then falling was maybe not the brightest idea. You could hurt yourself at the fall with knife.
Just wanted to say thank you for the great amount of knowledge your content provides! I am new to climbing outdoors and all your videos really teach me a lot! You're the man!!
I remember watching this series when I first started climbing and now I’m a few days way from my lead climbing class and find myself rewatching it thanks a lot for the video
The best of two worlds is Camp's Daisy Chain Twist. It solves the problem of accidental clipping in adjacent loops (the biggest problem of a classic daisy chain) and also is mounted to your harness tie-in points without squeezing the harness parts as a normal sling does. Obviously, it isn't dynamic, so you have to be careful.
Amazing contents! Really great breakdown of each material along with their pros and cons. Comment on the sharp knife: Murphy's law. Having an assistant to do the cutting might be better since the fall might cause lost of control of the knife / arm and end up in Final Destination scenarios.
These videos are incredibly good. Thanks for putting in all the work. It's basically my recommended go to resource for all my friends which have learned everything they know about belaying or material from me or another friend.
That is a great video including all the pros and cons on using slings etc. But i would like to comment on using a sling as a tether since it is used really often especially outdoor for clipping into anchors but also in multipitch for rappelling or even (sometimes unfortenately and poorly installed) instead of the standard clove hitch method with the rope: you should always use a clovehitch in the carabiner facing the wall! it is not only recommended by the german DAV; it probably was the reason for the death of the famous Kurt Albert. The loose sling can always slip/escape through while opening the carabiner, you don't notice, place it, hang into it and ... that might be it. It is a small detail but has a great impact. all the best and thank you again for your really well made videos.
Excelente explicação sobre o assunto, me ajudou muito. Estou ansioso esperando pelas próximas aulas. Obrigado por colocar as legendas traduzidas para o português (Brasil).
another awesome video on climbing know how. Thank you so much for your efford. regarding the attachment of a teather to the harness, I‘ve seen also an alternative: You could also use the two tie in points with a bowlin (e.g. with dyneema slings). This option combines the best of both worlds ;)
Simplemente espectacular que buena explicación del tema, como siempre es grato ver qué colocas la traducción, un fuerte abrazo desde Colombia parcero, y felices escaladas👍👍👍👍💪😊😊😊😊😊
Hey excellent episode and series. I noticed that at 4:30 you mentioned Petzl experiment that you may have slightly misrepresented, they stated that the difference is not just rigid mass vs human body but also belayer displacement, rope slippage through device etc. And the forces are higher up to 70%, not quite twice. It might sound like nitpicking but if someone thinks they have 2x margin of error, that might end badly.
Thank you I looked into the article again, and I'm missing actual details on the two protocols they tested... It's unclear if they fixed the GriGri to the anchor in Rigid mass drops and had a belayer with human masses or what they did? If you have more info I'm curious!
The Multichain Evo from CT climbing Technology has an extra loop which you attache into your tie in point and with this additional loop it prevents from squeezing the harness. Your videos are always great and very interesting!
I loved that you mention the different Petz adjusts. I bought the single but I quickly realize that for abseiling I finally have to build the extension with a sling ( with the consequence of thinking "I drop it for multi-pitching or I buy a PAS or the double version :P? money money moneyyyy). Talking with other people, it seems to me that the most versatile piece is the PAS (metolius or grivel)
When I was learning to rappel, Daisy Chains (or accessory cord knotted into several compartments) was used for multiparty rappels. One side was tied in to the active rappeler, and clipped to the rappel device. then a separate loop (preferably on the far side of the attachment to the rappel device) was clipped to the rescue object so both the rescuer and rescuee would be independently connected to the rope system. It seems prudent to carry a personal anchor which allows isolating two attachment points when doing anything multi pitch where evacuating the area would require lowering on the rope system.
Hi. LOVE your channel! Love in-depth reasoning and quirky experiments. PLEASE PLEASE make a video on how to set up an anchor for top roping outdoors, as well as how you recommend to clean a sport climbing route - top rope and lead 🙏🙏🙏
A purcell prussik the best tether for alpine climbing. Quick and easy to tie. Adjustable in length, dynamic, and when not used as a tether, it functions as a sling, so it's multi-purpose.
Lol. I'm watching this course and I don't even climb and never will (probably). I just love watching people climb and this course will teach me so I understand what's climber doing.
In your segment on how to attach to the wall, there is another method which is extremely versatile. The system is a 180cm sling, basket hitched to hard points, with an overhand slightly more than halfway up. This creates a redundant tether. When sport climbing, each loop of the tether can be clipped to a separate bolt - this essentially creates a redundant anchor which the climber is directly tied to. It is also beneficial in that the loop below the knot can be used to pre-rig and extended a rappel. This is an excellent system for multi-pitch climbing.
Immer wieder toll zusammengefasst. Als Einbindeknoten am Gurt für die Schlinge kann man auch einen Boulin machen. Dann bleibt die Performance des Gurtes erhalten. Ich weiß nicht, ob das schon jmd erwähnt hat. Beste Grüße
Really great video thank you!😊 About attaching sling to harness: I read that girth hitching a sling to the belay loop was part of what caused Todd Skinner's fatal accident, since it constrained the belay loop from moving and made it wear in one spot only. However the harness was also visibly worn before the accident so it might have failed regardless. To be safe I use tie in points only for slings/rope and belay loop only for carabiners but idk if it is super important, this maybe is just reducing wear and not necessarily safety.
@@HardIsEasy Ah okay didn't read though that article first 😆. It has an interesting point about a girth hitch to the belay loop reducing wear on the sling as it will not be un-/re-weighted as much, and so I guess the only difference between the belay loop and the tie-in points is whether the sling or the loop takes the wear. In which case, the 'ideal' choice (everything else equal, an unlikely senario), is simply to do whichever wears the sketchiest part the least ! Though of course, as you and that article point out, it really won't matter if your gear is all in good shape. If your belay loop looks like it might not take the wear, maybe it was time for a new harness last season lol.
Зачем я это смотрю!? Лазал в молодости по горам, бог знает, сколько ДЕСЯТКОВ лет назад, но парень рассказывает интересно, живо, с примерами! Просто завораживает👍👍!
At 16:32 I'd place my locking carabiner upside down, so the screw gate is screwed down: so the gravity prevents it from being accidentally unscrewed. Also thank you so much for posting these videos and having them for free. I've learned a lot!
One thing that I noticed after many and many times I saw this video on the cutting experiment between sling and rope is that the melted part of the sling is mainly the painted nylon on the outer part of the sling while the dyneema looks more intact. Which it actually makes sense since nylon is not doing good with high temp.
Thanks a lot for what you share and explain here ! Your videos are perfect an I like the way you talk of climbing and belaying. Thanks again, support from south of France.