Slipped flywheel no start 

Glad you found the problem in the end!

Glad to hear you got it going again. It can be a tricky one to track down if you don't know the symptoms as it is so out of view.

Dangar Marine I have bad motor when you check me for it

Thanks mate.

Hey Mark, that's a really good question. I am presuming that the sleeve would also be keyed somehow to the flywheel but I'll look into it and post a video when I do the job.

Hey Eric, it might not be common, but it certainly does happen!

You're welcome. :)

Glad you found the problem mate!

Has the whole engine seized?

You could for sure. Anything to stop it rotating on the shaft will work.

Did you end up tapping threads for a set screw into the crank? Or the flywheel?

Thanks Anothony. You're boat is looking great and I love the name. ;)

What is the boat and year?

You're welcome Kev, glad you found the problem.

Same. Thanks!!!

That's a good question. I've certainly seen some broken magnets continue to work just fine so if it was me I would try glueing it and seeing how it goes. You can always replace it if it doesn't run / charge correctly.

Are the spark plug leads connected to the correct cylinders?

They plug wires are cut to length from the timer base so I don’t think I can mis wire them. Motor was running but missing a bit when the key sheared and stalled out. Could it just be that it flooded and backfiring out of exhaust? Don’t see any way to install flywheel or stater/timerbase incorrectly to mess of timing. Is the initial timing just set up by lining the flywheel and crankshaft via the key? Thanks for the response!

Dangar Marine I actually think it was just flooded. Floats weren’t set correctly so it was flooding and it just so happened that the fly wheel key sheared the same time.... I let it sit overnight with the carburetors open and reconnected everything. Sprayed some starter fluid in and it fired right up, Reved up high and smoked a bit and then settled into a decent idle. Still feel like my timing or plug leads need attending to.

If it has fuel getting into the cylinders, good spark and compression it can really only be timing that is causing it not to run. Put a timing light on it and see what it is at.

Dangar Marine thank you for the input do you know of an online resource for the correct timing and linkage location to put it back to stock

Backfiring is more likely to be a timing issue like this.

It's weird that it came right out. Maybe it had always been that way since the last installation???

It's a tricky problem to diagnose so if everything else looks good it may well be your problem. Good luck!

@@DangarMarine I built my own puller. First one failed. Was 3mm plate steel and just bent. Secont attempt with 6mm plate worked. The flywheel key was fine. I refitted the flywheel and cranked it. You wouldn't believe it. As I was mucking around with the flywheel I noticed those little notches where you could put in an emergency pull cord. I visualised the pull starting of such a big engine. Then it hit me. The starter motor is turning the wrong way. Someone has welded brackets on to a car starter and mounted it to the outboard. It turns over fine but backwards. I've wasted a good 20+ hours chasing issues. It's good tho because I found splits in some fuel hoses. Flakes blocking the carbs. I'll track dow a genuine starter that turns the correct way and I'm confident it'll fire.

I know I enjoy it! :)

Thanks Seth. For sure this is one that could leave you scratching your head.

Thanks mate, good point about mentioning models. This one was a 60hp Mariner but I'd have to check the year.

You're welcome. This motor was an old 60 HP Mariner.

Good question, I'm guessing about mid 1990s maybe.

out sourdeing fo cheap labor! your country do that?

Thomas Flynn You are a f ing moron dip sh!+

Thomas Flynn This POS goes on EVERY ouboard video begging for help to fix a motor that he can't even diagnosis! I mean BASIC stuff. He is Forest Gumps grandpappy! Then has an attitude when people don't rush to help him fix what he probably messed up. He couldn't tell his peepee from his stank hole unless a youtube viedo explained it in SSLLLLLOOOOWWWWWWW motion

Thank you, glad you enjoy. :)

Hi mate, yes Stu is right. If there is any confusion I would always go with the lower number (22 BTDC). If the timing is too advanced you can do damage, if it is slightly retarded you will only lose a small amount of power.

Dangar Marine OK thanks Stu, I'll go with the lower one which is the max cranking setting at 22 degrees. but will lower it to 20 since the plugs not in when checking the timing. power is not that major of an issue for me.

It's not common, but it's worth keeping in mind if you ever have a no start when everything else seems fine.

Thanks Jimmy, you're most welcome. :)

You're welcome Kevin. :)

Thanks Steve!

No, once the the flywheel has slipped the spark timing is way off and it won't run at all.

Welcome. :)

That'll do it. ;)

Same here this guy is amazing

Thanks Will.

Prybar with upwards force under the flywheel and rubber or metal mallet hitting the crankshaft hard. It will pop off

Your reply is up a while, I hope you’re fixed up now. The flywheel is driven by friction between the taper surfaces rather than the key. Because the shaft is trying to accelerate and decelerate throughout the combustion cycle, this joint is always working hard and a key cannot take the force. If the surfaces cannot touch intimately because of roughness and effectively seize, flywheels will move. A small amount of damage can be checked and repaired by blueing and lapping in. Otherwise it’s an expensive machine shop job or full replacement. There must be no possibility of rocking on the shaft, before tightening the lock nut. I’ve had some success with loctite when a proper repair was uneconomical desperate. Incidentally Dangar’s tip to stick the key with a dab of grease is dodgy. The taper area should be spotlessly clean of grease. Use a tiny punch mark or a small bit of thread lock to retain a loose key. I like to lube the nut and tighten by feel. Otherwise follow the manual, usually dry thread and torque wrench.

@@jimwoods9551 Thanks for replying! I was able to fix my motor and it runs great now. Things must be snug enough to keep it going strong!

Thanks mate, glad you are enjoying them. :)

The flywheel will definitely need to be repaired or replaced before this can go back on the water.

I'll be very interested in what is done, repair, new bushing(?), or needs replacement ($$$!, I imagine). Thanks for another great video. RichE

There are so many video I wish I had made earlier!

I wish I was younger.... :) RichE

Is it the crank moving up and down or the flywheel on the crank? I've certainly seen some cranks move up and down a bit on the main bearings without any serious effect.

Actually, I would think that a machine shop could machine a key that was the right size for both original crankshaft slot, AND the larger flywheel slot. This "should" work fine, as offset keys in camshafts and cranks on other engines (not sure about outboards) to change the timing for special uses has been done for many, many years. At least since the 60's that I know of. LOTS cheaper than even a repaired flywheel, yes? RichE

My motor still running fine ,just has a lot a play in crank bearings..I be a believer don't fix what's not broken..I intend to build my 8 HP Yamaha that needs every thing but power head and foot..It's a victim of fire and thief.Then the 9.9 will be a back up motor.

Unfortunately you can often only buy the whole flywheel.

Can't say I've ever heard of it, but it's interesting to hear you mention it. I'll do a bit of research. Certainly never seen it done on an outboard.

Dangar Marine, I ended up doing the process. It made the two surfaces joint nicely. The flywheel was a little rough when I began but smoothed it out after a good minute plus of rotating. I'm glad that I did it.

Nice idea to lap the fit to make it tight again. :)

How is removing material from 2 parts going to make it tight again?It looks like it would make it l ooser

Indeed. I wish props still had shear pins instead of these rubber bushings. So much more servicable.

Yup! Or both to keep the bushings from wearing out prematurely. And on small engines (84 Evinrude 15hp), most shops won't even try to replace the bushing as they find the prop hub cracks, or want as much as a replacement. Fortunately, there are now props for even this small motor with user replaceable hubs! And even more fortunately (after the misfortune of my previous 15hp overheating and now having NO compression), the prop on that was still good and fits the replacement motor... :) Thanks again. RichE

Looking online it seems that you can buy individual dies up to quite large sizes, eg. www.ebay.com.au/i/122542985650?chn=ps&dispItem=1

what size die would i need?

Dangar Marine - hey that might take awhile to get to me and by that time the summer will be over. lol. Ihave used a pitch to the top bolt of the crank shaft and it is 18 SAE and then the width is about .90. so i've consulted many mechanics but none are to specific in my area as we have a mechanic that flies in from time to time, i have found a thread file restorer and it had the right size pitch of 18 so that may be my best bet. I wish there were mechanics like you around in my area lol great work keep it up

Thanks Omero, glad you've been enjoying the vids. :)

Hey Chuck, interesting setup. A guess this woodruff key failing is very much like the belt slipping on your outboard.