How to get your Carbureted Engine to start faster. 

That's awesome! So glad I could help. Thanks for the comment!

I love it! Thanks for the comment!

A better and simpler system is an interior mounted momentary contact switch. You engage the switch until you hear the pump come up against pressure, which means the bowls are full, then when you let go of the switch it automatically shuts off. Now your bowls are full and your engine is ready to start. Here is Arizona the gasohol is evaporated in a day so running the electric pump via the momentary contact switch is a normal part of my start up routine. I run only rotary electric pumps as it seems no amount of money can buy a good quality mechanical fuel pump any more.

Ha! I do that a lot... thanks for the comment!

Thanks! And, thanks for the testimonial... makes you wonder why we didn't have check valves from the factory, huh? Thanks again!

Glad I could help! Let us know how you eventually solve the issue. Thanks again!

Thanks for the tip! And, thanks for the comment!

Thanks John, much appreciated.

Thanks Greg! Yeah, I remember the days of cranking forever, which are now long gone.

Awesome! Thanks Russ!

Thanks Toro!

Thanks Robert!

Very cool idea. Thanks for sharing!

If you did have an issue where the oil pressure would suddenly go away for some reason, the damage to the bottom-end bearings would already be done by the time the fuel in the carb bowl(s) ran out, and the engine would quit. I don't believe in an oil pressure cut off. I DO however have a red shift light pointed directly towards my right retina, and connected up to an oil pressure switch, that will instantly temporarily blind me in one eye if my oil pressure goes away. I can react faster that waiting for a fuel bowl to drain out, and get the motor shut down much quicker that way. I'd also rather be in control of the shutdown, rather that it be done for me, in the event of a dangerous situation that could end up real bad if it's shutdown at the wrong time. I'd rather roast the bottom end, than be killed or injured because the engine quit at the wrong moment. If you are hell bent on an automatic system, hook it up to cut the ignition instead.... it would be instantaneous that way.

Great! I'm glad it helped... thanks for the comment!

Wow, you're an anomaly. Most carbs need to crank for a while... nice upgrade!

@@FastMonty i like the holleys but u can build up a quadro jet by drilling it out too a bigger size like the 600 to a 800 those work the best all around street carb but i hate the edelbrock carbs they suck real bad i have a few that i pulled off cars because they hate to keep fuel in it those u have to crank putting fuel regulator helps a lot on start having the right pressures keeps the needle valve from leaking back or get worn

Ohhh yeah! No more priming those bowls! Keep us posted. Thanks for the comment!

The Carter brass check valves have a 0.5 PSI pressure drop across them (to overcome the spring). This doesn't really matter for a Holley / Autolite (Summit) / or a Q-Jet, but if you're running an Edelbrock / Carter, then your regulator should be set at 4 PSI (low end) or 5 PSI (high end). You'll overcome the floats and start bleeding fuel into the carb at 6 PSI. Anything less than 4 and you risk starving the carb. Best bet is to temporarily set your idle for 1200 RPM (or have a buddy hold his foot on the gas to get it up around 1200 RPM - assuming you have a mechanical pump that provides full pressure/flow at 1000-1200 RPM and up - they tend to drop off a little at 600-700 idle RPM). Anyway - the check should be between the regulator and the carb inlet; set the regulator to 4-1/2 to 5-1/2 pounds at 1200 RPM, and then you can be sure that you'll see 4 to 5 pounds at the actual carburetor inlet.

Yeah, you could do that... but, I wanted a way to "get in, and go". Thanks for the comment!

That's what I resorted to.

Glad I could help give you some ideas... hope a check valve does the trick for you! Thanks for the comment.

Thanks John!

Thanks! Yeah, makes it way easier to "get in, and go!"...

Good question... yes you can. But, you'd need a check valve in each line, one from the electric pump, and one from the Mechanical. That's almost the same as what I did. Have fun!

Welcome to the channel Shawn! Before you use the brake cleaner, I assume the engine is cold? Does it start fine when it's warmed up? If it only happens when cold, how long do you crank the engine until you decide to use the brake cleaner trick? Do you smell fuel at the carb, before using the brake cleaner? That's a start of the questions... :)

I put gas on mine to start it

Yup, especially if the engine has been sitting for a while. Thanks for the comment!

Thanks Robert!

Thanks for watching!

Congrats! Yeah, super helpful with starting... have fun!

Hey Steve, welcome to the channel! Good point... first try a check valve, if that doesn't help, then add an axillary pump. And, thanks! See ya next episode!

Thanks Andrius... In all honesty, I don't remember what was included with the pump. It's pretty simple, one lead is 12V, the other lead is to ground. I wired the 12V to a toggle switch, which is wired to 12V keyed. When key is on, I can turn the pump on until the pump starts to strain, telling me the bowls are full. Or, just leave it on. Hope that helps.

Welcome! Thanks for the comment!

I have a couple videos about fuel injection pumps... but not the Carter pump you see in this video.

Thanks Curt! Great tips... much appreciated. (I love Marvel Mystery oil too) I have now upgraded to a full AN System because I changed over to a FiTech throttle body. Here's that playlist... ru-vid.com/group/PL0VCtZe2W6eYFayoNVWpqMIwsXBbZQKqU (I did some crazy fuel pump plumbing, which I'll be changing) Thanks for the comment!

I've got a Carter check valve (looks to be the same as in this video) about 2 inches from the carb inlet - piped with brass to a pressure regulator just a few inches away... mechanical, connected by about 3 feet of nickel-copper hard line has return line going back to tank. Check valve works like a champ. Car can sit for a month and 3 moderate whacks with my foot gets enough fuel into the system to fire up immediately even with modern ethanol blended (10%) fuels.

Hey Ben, good question... I WISH I had filmed the entire build, I'd be RU-vid famous. Ha, ha... so, no, I don't have any body work vids. However, you should go follow Kevin Tetz ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Cwb72qRT8hQ.html I bought his training system a long time ago, but it seems most of his knowledge is now on RU-vid. Have fun, and be patient!

Thanks David!

Welcome!

Thanks Steven! As you know, I love AN hoses and fittings too... Sounds like a future video to me! Thanks again for your comment!

Yes, only if it's a free flow pump with the power off.... and you can blow through it. Otherwise you need to circumvent it the way I did. Thanks!

Thanks. You can absolutely do that. I wanted a back up pump. And, the electric pump is on the annoyingly loud side, so I didn't like it running all the time. That said, I'm now fuel injected and running a modern Camaro SS internal tank pump, which is awesome. ha, ha... have fun!

@@FastMonty Thanks

Good question Justin... to Relay, or not to Relay, the eternal question... the answer lies in the amp draw of the pump, and your comfort level of said amp draw through your circuit. My current pump, now an in tank modern Camaro SS pump, takes about 10 amps. So, it's on a relay. Hope that helps!

Thanks! Actually, I removed the return line. The Carter Mechanical pump I sourced does NOT have a return, which is why the electric pump works. Otherwise, that's why I recommend using a check valve in between the mechanical pump and carb. (If and only if, you have the forever cranking issue, some mechanical pumps have a built in check valve) Anyway, hope that helps!

I like the idea of priming with electric pump and since my C3 will not be a daily driver I see the benefit of having it, but I am just confused now with fuel return. My mechanical pump does not have a return and I was thinking of making a return line from Holley duel feed line back to tank. This would be to prevent vapor locks and to keep cool fuel flow...or am I wrong somewhere. Maybe I am just complicating too much?! Any words or wisdom is appreciated, thanks!

@@MM-hh5nz That's two different things... one, a dual feed line just means you have a "double pumper" carb, like mine. If you're just going to use the pump to prime the bowls, like I do, you don't necessarily need a return line. Turn it on for a few seconds, let the bowls fill, turn it off. (This is also under the assumption your mechanical pump allows "flow through" pressure) Then you'll need to also plump a bypass with a check valve, like I did. Plan B, if you're planning to run the pump continuously, it'll depend on how your carb behaves with the output pressure of the pump. If it doesn't "like" it, you'll then need to add a pressure regulator, and return line. You may want to research your particular carburetor to see what the optimum input pressure is, and match it with the output pressure of an electric pump. Most electric pumps have different pressure output ranges and/or gallons per hour. Sorry, if I made it complicated... I promise it'll make more sense the more you thing about it. :) Hope that helps...

I have no idea? Maybe reach out to Carter? Good luck!

Good question... no, it does not. :) Thanks!

That works too! I just wanted some redundancy. Thanks!

Love it! I did not run an in line fuse... but, a damn good idea! Love your stealth switch idea. Have fun, and thanks for the comment!

@@FastMonty thank you for making this video that shows us average guys like me a simple solution to this problem with running a carburetor.

@@Mikey-Likes-I.T You're welcome, Mike! Glad it helps. Have fun!

Good question Sean... at first, I added the electric fuel pump to fill the bowls, for quick starts. And just use it as a back up to the Mechanical. But, I didn't realize I needed to bypass the electric pump, to turn it off. Hence this video. Hope that helps! Thanks for the compliments! See ya!

Yeah, so the idea was to just use it for priming, initially. But, I had to run it ALL the time, until I built the bypass in this video. (I don't use it at all now, cuz I have fuel injection) But, it worked! Hope that helps.

Absolutely! I think I mentioned it in the video, but I'd install it in between your carb and pump. Let us know how it goes!

Great question... it certainly sounds like heat soak/vapor lock. What would I do? I'd add a heat barrier. First option and easiest solution, get this sheath for fuel lines, www.amazon.com/dp/B000E267M4?ref=exp_fastmontysgarage_dp_vv_d&th=1 You should be able to disconnect the fuel line before the filter, and slide this all the way down over the metal line. Option 2, Wrap it with DEI's header wrap, www.amazon.com/dp/B00B82XA3S?ref=exp_fastmontysgarage_dp_vv_d&th=1 Option 3, re-locate the fuel line, using AN hose. Hope that helps, please let me know how it goes!

That IS vapor lock, and do yourself a HUGE solid, and immediately get RID of that glass fuel filter. I personally know of 1 buddy that has had his car go down in a blaze off glory because that glass fuel filter vibrated against some part of the engine and it broke, sprayed fuel everywhere, and the car burned to the ground when the fuel ignited from the hot exhaust headers. I've "heard" of it happening to endless others in internet stories also. If you HAVE to have that glass filter, make sure that you mount it SOLIDLY on BOTH side of the fuel line that enters AND leaves the filter, so that there is NO way possible that the glass part can vibrate OR bang against something when it gets jarred around by the normal bumps and motions of driving a vehicle. Personally, I'd just ditch the glass jobby altogether. Better safe than sorry, given the fact that those glass type filter HAVE consumed many cars before... 😬 💣 🔥

Ha! Yup! No fuel to pump in the bowls. Thanks for the comment!

@@FastMonty I just started it a few hours ago. Now I'm ready to roll this year. 🙂

@@ms79ta Yeesssssss!

Hi Steven... sorry if I wasn't clear in the video, but I use the electric pump to fill the bowls before start up. Originally I was only going to use the electric pump as a back up to the mechanical, but quickly figured out I had to run it all the time. That started to aggravate me, because it's not quiet. Now that I'm filming driving adventures, I can hear it... so, in goes the check valve, and I can now turn it off. Crazy, I know. So, yes, you can remove the mechanical pump, add a block off plate, and rely on the electric pump, full time. :) Thanks for your question!

Ha! The pump is actually closer than the fuel line... BUT, that's long gone now. Since I'm fuel injected, I installed this ... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-is6abUtrVRI.html Thanks for the comment!

@@FastMonty Thats good. I watch corvettes burn down all the time. I'm just super cautious about fire.

@@63grandsport11 Yeah, say no to bon fires. ha, ha... thanks for the comments!

Yup, but it also depends if you have a return line on your mechanical pump. If not that method would definitely help. Thanks for the comment!

That would make more sense... got any suggestions as to which one?

You might not need to prime the carb at all... it'll depend on how long the car sits. You're fighting two things when the car sits... one, the fuel draining back to the tank out of the line, and two, the fuel evaporating out of the bowls. So, in my opinion, a check valve is mandatory, where a prime pump is optional. Make sense?

Great point. I don't remember if I mentioned that I changed my mechanical fuel pump to a Carter non-return line version. So, if you have a return line pump, the check valve should be between the pump and the carb. Hope that helps.

@FastMonty Thanks for the response! It's not that I don't understand, but I'm just curious why in between the pump and the carb? Could you explain why it's a better option? Sorry for all the questions.

@@Powerhousegarage406 Sure... the return line needs to be able to return to the tank. So, if the main line is able to drain itself, it will, through the return line. If there's no return line, it doesn't matter where you put the check valve. (The mechanical pump is also relatively low, and level with the tank, so, not to much fuel will return to the tank when sitting around, with the check valve just after the mechanical pump, going to the carb) hope that helps.

@@FastMonty yes that makes sense now! I'm going to try this on my 70' gto. I'll let you know how it works. Thanks 👍

@@Powerhousegarage406 Awesome! Have fun!

Hey David, from Spain... welcome to the channel. My setup uses both. The electrical pump, which is operated by a switch to fill up the bowls, and act as a backup should the mechanical pump fail. Hope that helps!

@@FastMonty I love it, I'm going to do it in my 1975 Cadillac Eldorado, he has a quadrajet, thank you very much, and every two or three days it's horrible to start..

@@FastMonty So, the electric pump feeds the mechanical pump, and then from the mechanical pump to the carburetor....is that so?

@@davidmuley164 That's correct. However, if you have a fuel return line on the mechanical pump, it might not work. You'll either have to buy a mechanical pump with NO return, or cap it off, or just start with a check valve in between the carb and the mechanical pump. Hope that helps.

Good question Brian, it's custom ... I call it 2am Green. (The factory color was Midnight Green) Thanks!

@@FastMonty Thanks alot, I'll go try find that color code and have it on my custom built bike. Hope it will look dapper like yours.

@@brianotieno4215 Ha! I'm sure it will! (FYI, it's Chrysler Color code PGZ)

Yeah, you're right, Oil Pressure is directly tied to RPM. Redline is max pressure. Idle, low pressure. Cranking RPM, minimal pressure if any. Hence my comment, if you're cranking, and cranking, and cranking... you do run the risk of oil starvation issues. The faster you can start your engine, the better. Thanks.

Well, there you have it... if Jeff Kauffman recommends a bigger carb, then go bigger. :) I agree with him, if your carb can't breathe, ie it's undersized, you'll always have too much fuel.

Smokey Yunick talked a lot about this back in the day. It is a fickle line between use/volumetric efficiency/altitude/etc. There is a “scientific” formula that says Carb size equals CI x RPM X Volumetric Efficiency all divided by 3456 (plus or minus 10% or so for density) but take of that what you will. It will get you in the ballpark and shows that most people over carb their stuff. By that math a street rod with a 350 small block at 6500 rpms with 90% volumetric efficiency (a well built street rod) only needs a 600 CFM carb and I’ll submit to that. Society and magazines say you have to have a 4150 double pumper for the same setup 🤷‍♂️🤷‍♂️. It’s all subjective I guess.

Also to be noted is the discharge nozzles and accelerator pump can cause a bog when floored, but i won’t go down that rabbit hole lmao.

@@curtlyons9235 Yup, another reason to switch the Fuel Injection. :) Thanks Curt!

@@FastMonty absolutely. Way less headache especially if you go cross country lol. Nobody likes tuning a carb in the Walmart parking lot in Colorado. Ask me how I know 🤣🤣

Ha! Yes, sir! Thanks!

Ha! You totally could, ... but, I'm lazy, and would much rather flip a switch, ha, ha... thanks!

Maybe Matt... all I know is, my carb fires immediately, no matter how long it sits. (Because of the electric fuel pump) There might be an issue with the Mechanical pump, but, it's brand new. Thanks for the comment!

@@FastMonty I've got 2 motors running quick fuel double pumpers a 1 with berry grant double pumper. 1 aeromotive pump and 2 mopar performance pumps. All 3 have aeromotive fuel pressure regulators. The will all fire up immediately with 2 pumps of the accelerator after sitting for 3 months. I have had problems with carter and Holley pumps.

@@mattvorhees6055 Thanks for sharing! I'm jealous of how many motors you have... ha, ha. If I'm reading this correctly, all three have electric fuel pumps? Which would make sense why they all fire up immediately. Good stuff... thanks for the comment!

@@FastMonty there all mechanical. When I use electric fuel pumps on carbs when they have a power adder. Its expensive done correctly. They need 2 returns and fuel pump controller. If this is not done the fuel gets so hot the the engine will quit running. Obviously it varies with how much fuel is in the tank.

@matt vorhees Ahhh, that's interesting. Apparently not all mechanical pumps are created equal. 😀 I've had no issues with my set up... thanks for sharing!

At the time of this video, it's a 400 bored 0.060" over, and stroked to 4.25". So, that's 467. My Carb was a Barry Grant Speed Demon 750, flows about 800, upgraded with annular jets, road race floats, machined horn, choke delete, and now has mechanical secondaries. (And, it's for sale. :)) Thanks for sharing the channel, and thanks for the comments.

@@FastMonty You bet I dont know how you came up with the idea of a YT but its a frikin life saver, your detail is by far above everyone else I've watched. Just rebuilt my front end to stock, replaced bushings etc, wow what a pain getting those cooled springs back in

@@frekkledipped Thanks Dan. Yeah, those coils suck to put back in. I didn't have to, because I now have coil overs. ha, ha... That's the one mod I did that had no issues during install... thanks again.

@@FastMonty So Im doing the same thing to my engine bored 60 over 4.25 crank then I guess it will be a 467 CI?

@@frekkledipped That's correct.

My goal was to only use the electric pump to Prime only. Hence the bypass. But, yeah, if I wanted to keep the pump on at all times, yes, that'll work. Thanks!

Hey Roger, thanks for reaching out, and congrats on getting your Firebird back. That's an awesome story. Unfortunately, I sold it last year. Good luck on the hunt... or, you can skip all that and put a FiTech unit on there. :)

@@FastMonty Mike I’m gonna be completely honest with you. I have a 9 year old daughter I’m raising alone, so money is already tight, but believe me, I’d have ALREADY went with FI if I could afford it! I was also wanting to run a set of Kauffman aluminum D ports as well, but I had to go with factory Pontiac heads, I did buy a set of 6x-4’s that I had shaved to make 9.5-9.6:1 on a flat top piston. I don’t plan on using race gas or anything, just nitro v power 93, and maybe a bottle of hood race gas concentrate that muldowney owns. Mix 4oz with 1 gallon of 93 and the race gas purple ultra can they sell with make 1 gal of 93 mixed with that 4oz of the concentrate bump the ovtance to 101 (roughly) and that’ll only be used on my weekends when I hit the strip. I bought the Holley 800 spreadbore because I’m using a edelbrock performer intake, it’s a spreadbore, but of course you knew that. I do plan on rebuilding the Holley though. Currently it’s better 67 in the front with 86’s in the rear, which may work fine for my street/strip car. I’m just looking for atleast a 850. Now my 800 spreadbore is 800 cfm and double pumper. Do you have Facebook Mike so maybe I could messages you some questions when I run into a few. I got off work a little early yesterday and went to my garage and made some more progress on the engine though, next I’ll be purchasing a Holley rebuild kit, perhaps with a couple different jets to test back to back to see what my car and engine likes the best. My 6x-4s should flow roughly 220-230 cfm on intake is what they quoted me on it, so I feel for the money I spent, I came out really good, next big purchase will ABSOLUTELY be a set of Kauffman aluminum d ports I’m thinking in the 72cc combustion chamber size. I’m running a Spotts Performance HCP01 cam specs as follows (@.50” int. 224* exh. 303* adv. duration int. 298* exh. 303* LSA 114* Intake centerline at 109* When I install 1.65 roller rockers, my numbers will increase to lift on int. .513” lift on exhaust .536” or I could 1.6 roller lifter and that net me .497” on int. And .591” on exhaust. Rpm range of this cam is from 1800-58-6000 rpm. I think this would work beautifully! Let me know your input on this. Thanks again man!

@@rogerharrelljr1935 Yeah Brother, everyone has a budget. (Both Time, and Money) I think you're on the right path... but, I'm not an expert on Head and Cam matches... I highly recommend asking Kaufman what cam they'd recommend, if you're going to go that route... even eventually, as the cam is harder to replace than heads. If you stick with stock heads make sure they're slotted or 1.6 or 1.65 rockers. Have fun!

Thanks Brother... yeah, I have a hard time remembering to blink. bahahahaaa Thanks!

Only if you have a bypass, as I discussed. Otherwise the Mechanical pump is trying to pull through the electric pump, and it won't work. Thanks for the comment!

@@FastMonty great video!

from napa

For those that have Holly carbs... what a great idea! Thanks Charles, hope to see more awesome advice in the future... see ya!

@@charlesowens8319 Got a part number to share?

Nice i should get a holly crb then

You know the link to get?

Really? Why? Where shall we put it, under our seat?

sounds good, nothing wrong with going a little larger than required with the carb. But, you should be good.

Shhhh... don't tell anyone. Ha, ha...

Yeah, that's the worst. Hope a check valve helps!

Agreed. Probably wouldn't siphon fuel from the bowls. Definitely a combination of evaporation, and the supply line emptying itself. Thanks for the comment!

How about it? Not sure what you're asking but, if it's carbureted, and not starting quickly after sitting for a week, you can implement the same trick. Have fun!

@@FastMonty it sits all winter from October till about June and it takes forever to get it to start

Would that same thing work for a 1966 mustang

@@tracywagers1399 Yep, same check valve, and/or electric fuel pump will help immensely.

@@FastMonty ok thank you

Uhhh, that's not the point of this video. While that stuff works, some carbs/engines will not start quickly if left unattended for a week or two. Opening the hood, removing the air cleaner, using starter fluid, starting the engine, put the air cleaner back on, close the hood... go drive. OR, Plan B, push a button, wait a couple seconds, start the car. I prefer Plan B. Thanks.

Good question... Having both gave me a back up pump. Just in case one should die. Doesn't matter now, because I now have a Fuel Injection System, as you've probably noticed from my latest video releases. Ha, ha... thanks for the comment!

I'm sure you figured it out... but, its a 69 GTO. Thanks!

@@FastMonty LUCKY HAHA. IM WORKING ON A 68 GP working on the dashboard wiring. Specifically the factory volt gauge thru ez wire harness. Quite a can of worms lol

Ohhh, I know it all too well... check out this video where I explain some of the craziness you might find behind those gauges. (I know it's an alternator video, but I'm trying to get the charge light to work) Might give you some insight... ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-GEoje-1rnVw.htmlsi=yBd2iGt0ZxUyBACX Have fun! @@quetzalcoatul1

At the time, I wanted to fill the bowls, after the car has been sitting for weeks... so, the engine starts immediately. Hence the electric fuel pump.

Good question Harry... yes, it'll pump through the mechanical. Which is why it's also considered a "Back up" should the mechanical fail. Thanks!

But, some do now. Hence the topic.

Congrats! As discussed, I use the pump to prime the bowls, then turn it off. I use the check valves so the pump gets bypassed by the Mechanical pump. It's just the way I set it up... sounds like your pump runs full time, which is fine. I just prefer to have a back up should either pump fail. Thanks!

@FastMonty Yes, the electric pump is a Magna-fuel ProStar 500. It's actually a very good and trouble-free streetable pump, considering that it supports 2000h.p., and is/was used by NHRA Pro-Stock teams. I've had it for 11 years now, and have put MANY street miles and drag strip passes on it. I've had to rebuild it with a seal kit once during all that time, because the motor shaft seal was drying up, and fuel was starting to drip out of the weep hole on the pump body. Very inexpensive, easy, and quick to do the rebuild job. If you want to purchase a quality pump, and only have to do it once in your lifetime, look NO further than the Magna-Fuel ProStar 500. It's available with a built-in canister fuel filter with washable/replaceable element also. Bonus.

Maybe it is the fact that my fuel pump placement is below the pick-up outlet of my fuel cell, that the fuel won't drain back to the tank. I would think It would be pretty hard for the tiny amount of fuel in the carb bowls to be able to push fuel through a regulator, down a 15' hose, through the filter and pump, then up hill, and back into a large container with 15 gallons of fuel pushing down onto it.

@@davelowets Ohhh, that does sound awesome. Thanks for sharing!

Agreed. That would certainly help prevent the syphon from working. Thanks for sharing!@@davelowets

It's a real issue, read the comments... thanks.