Cam, I learned the hard way until I finally got a dust collector, can't believe how it makes clean up easily. My wife loves the wood dust and shaving for her flower beds. One comment when I installed mine I was told to put the return air back into the shop so I didn't have negative pressure which would interfere with heating the shop in winter and not cause lack of air so the collector would run 100 percent.
@@BlacktailStudio You can extend your exhaust piping (from the cyclone separator) back into the shop to maximize heating efficiency and eliminate drawing negative pressure on the shop, while still keeping the dust collector outside to minimize noise.
CAM, My partner watches these with me and positively salivates with envy when he sees your setups. Must be a guy thing. Ps thanks for not editing out your occasional trial&error problems. I think we learn just as much from these as anything else. And they keep it entertaining. Cheers
Trolls World Tour... only those of us with kids love it. I'll be watching to the bitter end from here on out! I'm considering installing iVAC myself. Thanks for the video.
Cam, I’m constantly waiting and watching your videos as they pop up; as a former pilot turned full time woodworker myself I love watching your shop and business progress. Keep em coming!
My system uses pvc duct and you can’t ground it. I’m an engineer, and despite all the videos that show how to ground pvc, you aren’t really grounding it. I’ve never had a problem, or gotten a shock. I think the static causing a fire is a myth, but if you have metal duct it’s simple to ground it.
Never use self tappers on your ducting... yes it's quick, and easy. Self tappers round out the holes, due the the self tapping point. (Especially when over tighten) if you ever wanted to change something on your line/clean it/maintenance... once you reverse that self tapper, diameter of the hole has now become much larger, than the original screw. Now you need a bigger self tapper, or a bigger sharp (there are two types of screws we use in HVAC sharps & self tappers) If you would have pre drilled, and used sharps, you can easily take off, and on the same piece 15-20 times (if not over tighten) by lining up the same holes, using the same screws.. compared to only once with self tappers. The difference between red, and green tin snips are; reds are for right hand, cutting left. Greens are for left hand cutting right. Yellows are for straight cuts. You were using regular red, and green tin snips.. I'd suggest getting offset reds, and Greens it will help with all your fish hooks (all of those sharp ends you left) also when cutting tin, don't hold the tin snips vertical like scissors, hold them on a sligh angle. If you're using reds... slightly tilt them to the right, if you're using greens slightly tilt them to left.
@@BlacktailStudio Also, don't place them on the underside of the ducting, only the top and sides, otherwise shavings, swarf, or whatever you want to call it will get stuck on the fixtures on the inside of the duct.
Thank you, this is very useful. Can you use a sharp without pre-drilling? High RPM drill will drive sharps in without the need to pre-drill, but is that going to create a problem in the future?
What are your thoughts on using rivets instead? Obviously that means they are more "permanent", but there's also much less protruding into the pipe itself. I also think it looks cleaner provides more strength.
Cam, great video. I'm just completing my iVac 8 blast gate system. I decided to use SDR35 pipe and found the install pretty easy - but the pipe and fittings are heavy when 8 ft up on a ladder! Thanks again for sharing.
CAM: If there is spiraling inside the pipe it could be similar to the rifling that’s on the inside of gun barrels to give a spiral effect, which would help to funnel the air in a more uninformed manner allowing a less likelihood of debris piling up at turbulent points within the ducting. Also, the spiraling on the outside/inner could be structural as well. This gives it more surface area in which to distribute external pressures/forces through. And given that it seems to be a bit thicker than the actual pipe material itself (more densely packed unlike the flat sheet of the pipe) this helps to give more rigidity. Not an expert.. just some spewing of my thoughts about them.
My husband and I had our 'dream house' built about five years ago. From day one, his study was a miserable place to be. Hot as Hades in the summer and bitterly cold in the winter. I put a matt heater under his desk so he wouldn't freeze in the winter, but he still had to wear a hat. About three years in he had enough and we hired an HVAC company to take a look at the problem. The guy had me pop my head into the ceiling and look at the 90* turn in the duct to branch the HVAC into my husband's room and told me that was the problem. His plan was to put in more gradual turns and that was it. I was dubious. It couldn't be that simple. His room had almost NO climate control at all. Just changing the angles of the pipe couldn't make that much of a difference, could it? I kept his card close, believing with all my heart that there was no way that this simple change could fix this extreme problem. Two years in and the only time I used the call was to thank them a few months in. Sure enough, it's perfect. Now I need them to come back and fix the EXTREME blowing into our bedroom. If the door is closed the heater is on, it turns into a sauna within 20 minutes. If the AC is on, you're in a 50* refrigerator. We're putting on an addition and I'm having them run the HVAC and fix the bedroom while they're at it. TLDR: DO NOT PUT IN 90 DEGREE ANGLES *EVER*. It's had a worse impact than you can imagine.
Cam, thanks for sharing your experience. I learned a lot. As a video creator and a builder, I understand it's a lot of effort to make these videos. So thank you and keep up the good work.
As long as the duct is metal all the way back to the collector the whole system is grounded. With plastic hose that has a spiral wire in it, you can expose the wire at the end and connect it to the metal duct. Plastic fitting will not allow ground to pass so you'd either have to ground to the tool or jump the fitting with a wire. All in all from what I've heard the danger of dust explosions in a home system is almost theoretically impossible. The static spark you can get from an ungrounded system causing you to jump while using a power tool can be real danger though. In machines that have a grounding wire like a dust collector, they should have ground attached to the metal frame of the machine. (I believe it is code.) This also includes all your tools if they have a ground on the plug. This is done so if there is a loose wire or something that touches the frame on the inside it will immediately ground and trip the breaker. If they didn't do that and the device had rubber feet or something, when you touched it in that situation you would be electrocuted. That is why you should replace the plug if you break the ground prong on the original even if it will work without it. A bit late to say this but I couldn't find a comment about it after a quick search so I thought I would post it.
Wow. Technology is so cool. It's what I'm going to miss the most when I kick the bucket.. Anyway, this tech is way beyond my pay grade. For now I'll be going with a 50 dollar Home Depot cylone and a shop vac of some kind. I didn't even know this auto blast gate thing existed. Happy for you.
Cam for the win Red/ green cutter handles = port/starboard lighting. Coincidence? Need controversy? discuss the reasons for dust collection grounding. Need more controversy- discuss PVC air lines.
Hey, Cam!) I just wanna say thanx for all the information you provide! Keep on 🔥 Your videos are super awesome and the tables are just stunning!) With greatest respect from Kazakhstan))
Cam, I would love to have a large room like that for wood working! That vac system is ridiculous! My wife feels she has half ownership of the garage so it is our Work shop/ Pantry. Oh how she loves the wood dust on all her packages. I know I could use a small Vac on each tool, but I am trying to drive her out of my shop! Anyhow I will continue to watch your Videos, all the while fantasizing that someday it could be mine!
Cam, the system looks great! I love the automatic gates. I've never used them before. As far as the main elbow going through the wall... the only thing I would have done differently would be to install a sweep T with a clean out cap on the bottom. Aside from that, I hope it works great for you! As always, i loved the video.
Can, another great video! I’ve been researching this iVac system and I think you just sold me on it. Thanks for all you do to progress the craft and our shops!
Cam - great video as always. Appreciate the time you put in to explaining everything. I’ve been looking into the iVAC system and you just helped me make my mind up and get them. Thanks again !
Cam, I love your sense of humour. The "troll of the week" bit makes me laugh. I build nothing with my own hands. I am just a fan of watching DYI, and I have quickly become a huge fan of your channel.
Cam, the tape on the inside would help with the crimp stuff. Good call. Also good call on getting good tape. There’s some really crappy metal tape out there. Also Red snips cut left, green cut right.
Cam. Would love to see a shop tour video. Looks like your in a 2 car garage but I’ve seen some videos where it looks like you share it with a car. Thanks. Love your content, very through!
Cam, Thanks for all your videos - I've been woodworking for a long time, but always learn something new. Question about your system: Since your dust collector is outside your house/shop and exhausting all the air to the outside, aren't you creating negative pressure in the shop and removing large amounts of heated/cooled air from the space? How do you deal with that? Thanks
Hi cam great video learned a fair bit but don’t have room for that size so got to scale it down to 63mm or 100mm at max. But a very interesting watch 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻 Cheers steve 👨🏼🦽🇬🇧
Cam- As per usual, excellent and informative video. Regarding heat/cooling loss, it seems to me that you would only lose room air during the time the duct fan motor (and equipment) is on. If you are working 8 hours ask yourself how many minutes your equipment is running. Probably not noticeable.
But did he replace his plastic sheeting air barrier and tape the seams? You won't see mold behind a wall but your lungs may. Fiberglass insulation will get wet too and render the insulation worthless.
Cam, I was told by the folks at ClearVue that running the collector with all the blast gates closed will not hurt anything, especially if you use thick wall ducting ( I use Nordfab). In fact, they said that’s the best way to check for leaks in the system. I do recommend you check for leaks by getting an incense stick and putting it so that the smoke runs around all your connections. If you have a leak, the smoke will be drawn into the leak. One important place to not have a leak is anywhere under the cyclone funnel. Any leak there will send too many particles (or even shavings) into your filter stack and eventually clog it.
Cam you said "pop can". This makes you that much more rad! Now that your system has been installed for a long time have there been any issues that you had to solve?
By putting your dust collector outside of your shop aren't you going to suck out all the heated or cooled air at the rate of 1250 CFM or whatever that vac is rated at?
@@carlgustafson213 he could, if there was an easy way to collect the discharged air but, with that huge filter on the new dust collector, I don't know how you would capture it to return it to the shop. I think he's gonna pay a big price for this system in heating and cooling costs.
Great video Cam! I have the same DC, upgrading from a 1.5HP Jet. With the Jet I really had to watch the blast gates and considered an automated system like you have. With the 5HP Gorilla, that really hasn't been a problem - I leave several gates open at a time as I move from tool to tool. I was concerned about the DC starting and stopping a lot, and the wait-time while it spun up. The chop-saw is a great example. Line up the board, pull the trigger, and then... wait for the DC to spin up before making the cut? I've found that leaving it on for a few hours and manually opening or closing a few gates now and then fits my workflow. Thanks for sharing!
Cam, this will be my third time through the process of setting up a dust collector system and learned several more useful things from your video. Really appreciate links to materials though my system will still involve a mix of spiral, stove pipe and PVC because I own it all. Did you forget to tell us the brand of duct tape you found to be best? Thanks.
@@BlacktailStudio Ooops, sorry. At 52 cents a foot it must be good stuff. But then, I'm so sick of paying for inferior goods more than once and loosing days to each redo.
About putting tape on the inside of your ducts… A big yes… I worked in a shop where the sawdust collected inside the ducking and a hot ember caught the sawdust on fire and it was a fire they went really quick although we were able to catch it…but yeah something to look out for 🥴
Hi Cam, Did you move? I think you mentioned that in another video (or two), but... Have watched all three of your dust collection videos and noticed an inconsistency. The home/shop in the first two videos had vertical siding. You painted that, and the RH door you installed yourself, with your wife. This video has shiplap siding (horizontal siding) with shingles at the top. a flat LH door, and a couple of vents in the roof that your father did not install when he roofed the first shop extension. There are also windows on the shop wall in the second location that weren't there in the first one. No biggie on the different location, of course, but maybe there were some other minor lessons learned in doing things the second time around. Also, though I learned a ton from you, I thought I could offer some answers to a few questions from other comments: 1. Yes, you can use PVC/Plastic pipe, but should run an exposed ground wire through the ducting as this set-up will generate a lot more static electricity and present a bigger fire hazard. 2. Yes, spiral ducting flows much better than regular HVAC ducting (spiral this is the preferred dust extraction ducting) and will dramatically reduce the possibilities of clogging.
Cam that looks like it was a lot of fun to run. I liked all you tips and am saving your video so I can look it over when I do my own system. The blast gates might be out of my budget
Cam, always love the content very informative and detailed. Just a side thought since I know you already have this system set up but it would have been cool to see a video from inside the tubing watching the doors open once the machine started so you could get an inside view of it working and sucking through the opening. Would've been a cool little clip and maybe a quick clip of the saw dust going into the barrel?! 🤔 Maybe good footage or maybe overpowered by the sawdust! Idk my brain went there 😂 I'll be here definitely a fan of the channel 😁
Hi Cam, great video. Interesting how IVAC system works. I saw a different video from a guy that had his system start when he opened a blast gate. I will be interested in your video on installing this system in your new space. Cheers.
I wouldn't use screws to secure joints. Aluminum tape itself will hold the joints together. You were taping the joints anyway as a seal. As far as the automated blast gates, I see that as a benefit for a production shop but not for a one man operation, unless you have money to burn. I can only operate one machine at a time. For those who like to leave machines on, I saw a horrific accident on Perkins Builder Brothers channel where a jointer was left running in a loud environment and a hand was shredded when the guy didn't notice it was running.
CAM... love your content I’ve learned so much from you been watching since you only had 2 videos keep up the good work. Also do you see yourself doing other type of projects besides your beautiful tables or is that where your focus is? I would love to just make tables but people always want random stuff built so of course I take it on but would love to focus on tables how did you go about that? Thanks again and one of best teachers on RU-vid hands down.
Cam, how is the noise with metal conduit? I’m at the design stages. For cost, I’d prefer PVC but obviously concerned about static (mixed messages on the Internet about this). But with metal, a planer spitting out chips would seem to add a lot more annoyance to anyone (e.g. wife) outside and/or not wearing ear protection.
You said in a previous video the dust collection on your planet was trash and that you were going to focus on it when you changed your dust collection. Does it work better? If so can you show us in a future video? Do you have a before and after?
Can- Love it bro very very nice and top of the Lomé collection system I can’t wait to build a system like that some day as always great content and great explanations for everything again very nice sir love the content keep up the great work can’t wait for the next new video!!
Hello. I am making a river table my self and I saw the 10 000 doller tabel video. And I got a bit worried about the prise of my tabel in the end. My tabel are rufly the same length and thicnes as 10.000 doller tabel. But the thing I would like to ask is, how much was the cost of the materials it self and not all the work? Like the epoxy and the finisher?
Cam: Since you have your dust collection outside your shop what is the point of hepa? I understand that your outside shed would have much more fine dust but if a person had dusk collection outside and did not care out dust in the outside area could they not save money by purchase a non hepa system. Just a thought. Great videos. I enjoy them all!
Hey Cam, been watching your videos for awhile now. Great content. I have to ask though, what projects are you working on to generate a livable wage? You’ve posted a few tables, that side table a couple weeks back, some little projects, and then things for your family or charity. Is your wife the main breadwinner allowing you to be a RU-vidr with a woodworking channel, or are you generating enough revenue in your garage to live off of without the free epoxy, RU-vid links, and RU-vid views? Genuinely curious because in my new venture of building out of my garage, it’s a grind.
Cam, Question as to why you went with a 6" duct and not a 4", seems like you would get a little better suction from just a slightly smaller duct. Also, using double cuts to cut the duct works very well.
Cam. I am currently completing my small (2-car garage) shop dust collection, and I will likely use iVac equipment with Nordfab ducting, so this video is extremely helpful. I wondered about your thoughts on placement of the blast gates themselves. Have heard different recommendations about placing gates close to the tool, close to the wye, elsewhere, etc. Any advice on that placement strategy?
Cam, again great video, that's some premium level suction right there :D I'm staring on a table build myself thanks to your inspirationessnesss and I've secured awesome 5cm thick walnut wood.. the surface on both sides is quite uneven so my question is: before i put it in the mold, is it best to plane both sides to make it completely flat? I must have missed that part in your how to videos. Keeping in mind that would take 0,5cm to 1cm of material off due to the unevenessnesss. Cheers ^^
Cam....I'm wondering why you didn't put your exhaust filter inside the shop. You are basically sending all your heat and AC straight out of your shop into the shed.
I really like your channel and what you do! Im just curious if you could answer a question for me. How does one advertise and drum business up? Is it social media? Craigslist? Business cards? Thank you so much!
Cam, your new system is a thing of beauty. Do you suppose there is a performance advantage to installing a straight run between 2-45 degree els? The three prong crimping tool tip is news to me and will certainly be helpful. I wondered why my earlier crimps still didn't fit freely.
Cam, I'm Jim and this is the second video of yours I've watched regarding dust collection (this one and your Odeida install). You've help a lot, thanks. I'm building my shop and ready to put my floor in. I am really trying to put my main duct runs in the floor to come up to my equipment. I'm most worried about the final runs to specific equipment against my walls. Any advice on whether to or not to run my main runs under my floor? I'm suffering from paralysis from analysis. Any thoughts or tips would be appreciated. Thanks again
Cam, I am a novice woodworker and am starting up a shop. First off thank you for this information, it is very helpful as I am planning my DC system. My question is probably off topic a little (because your vid left no stone unturned). How do you get sponsors? I realize they want to sponsor people who have followers, but is it difficult, or do they reach out to you when you get popular. I am trying to decide if I want to just do woodworking or start a channel also. Any advice is appreciated. Thank you, Chris.
Cam, second question: do you have an air return? I imagine you are sucking a ton of air out of your shop, do you allow air to circulate back in or does it suck fresh air in from elsewhere? I am concerned about blowing hot air outside in the winter.
Better to fasten duct components together with pop rivets than screws that can potentially catch larger wood chips, like when hand plane shavings are swept into a floor level receiver. Happened to me.
Cam, can give your rationale behind choosing ductwork instead of another type of piping? Was it cost, industry standard, or something else? I'm new to the game and considering putting in my own system. Thanks!
Hi Cam, good video. Two questions: 1. On an average day how many hours/day does the dust collector run? 2. How much does a 5hp system add to your electric bill (I know that a hard thing to guess)?
