A question about the 240V specification. I understand that terminals 3 and 4 are for neutral and live. Does that specification refer to the voltage expected between terminal 3 and 4.. Or does that specification relate to the switched connection on terminals 1 and 2??
Hi, You can also think in another way: 3 and 4 can be considered as the power supply to this thermostat; 1 and 2 could be any two lines, and the thermostat just sometimes connect them together and sometimes disconnect them. Have a nice day!
Hi, I got the same thermostat to install. I am replacing a manual Siemens two wire only thermostat, the two wires only work as on and off switch, both wires are, 1. switch live (RS-SL) and 2. live (RS-L). I think I'll need at least a third one live to permanently feed the thermostat and a four wire can be a bridge, either from one of the two wires. The question is: what wire should I bridge? The 1 or the 2?. I think it would be the no. 1 which is currently neutral. Your opinion would be appreciated. Thanks!
hi, when you bridge any two connectors be very careful. verify each wire before connecting or bridging (decide: if any wire is permanent Live, switched Live, or boiler control/heat-demand wire; you MAY NOT have a neutral wire from the old thermostat?). i suggest that (1). connect the two wires from the old two-wire thermostat to the smart thermostat terminal 1 and 2; (2). find or add permanent Live and Neutral wires and connect them to the smart thermostat terminal 4 and 3 respectively. IF one of the two wires of the old thermostat is INDEED permanent LIVE, THEN you can bridge that wire to the smart thermostat terminal 4.(in this case, you only need to add a permanent Neutral wire and connect it to terminal 3). Safety first, think it over and check before any connection. good luck!
@@RepairDIY Thanks for your reply, i'll need to get some time to look at options to enable permanent feed to the thermostat , very quick check question: what is the voltage for terminals 1 & 2? thanks again
@@migueldurano Inside the thermostat between the terminal 1 and 2 is just a switch: which can be connected or disconnected. You put two wires into the terminal 1 and 2, they will be connected when temperature is below the set temperature, or disconnected when above. For boiler operations, The terminal 1 and 2 just for connecting one wire(Live AC 220v) to another wire (Probably to control the boiler). 220v is a dangerous voltage. Be careful. good luck!
@@RepairDIY Hi, it did work, thanks. It is working and connected to the WiFi. I was lucky that builders connected the old electromechanical thermostat (Siemens RAA20) using a 4 wire cable, where only two were in use, a.) switch live (neutral - which I think acted as neutral as current was off when heating went on) and b.) live to control temperature with the Siemens. They also left enabled the earth wire which was not in use. So I ended up, reusing a. and .b as you suggested where b. being live, I did the bridge so I found c. as the live to feed the new thermostat and I repurposed the unused earth as the neutral and d.) fourth wire to feed the new device, and job done, I had to recolour the wires so anyone can understand the wiring. I also had to consult the boiler's manual. Again, thanks a lot!
This is actually temperature-driven dry switch. It can be used anywhere where a traditional mechanical thermostat can be used (with extra N and L wires). have a good day!
Hello, i need to connect the same thermostat to replace my wall thermostat however my configuration is some how complicated. I have a combi boiler with a timer with two zones and 4 thermostats that control those zones. In your installation is there a timer or the thermostat is straight to the boiler? Thanks
Hi, yes i do have a timer/programmer on the other side of the wall. so the timed live wire comes from the timer, then it goes through the wifi thermostat. only when the timer is on and the thermostat is asking for heating, then the boiler can be fired. the timer can be put on the different mode: On/Off/Switched. Only when the timer is ON mode, you wifi thermostat can have full control 24 hours. if you normally use the timer, then the smart thermostat can be used just as a remotely adjustable thermostat:=) have a good day!
@@RepairDIY Thanks for your reply, appreciate it. My existing thermostat has a neutral and live, (grey with blue sleeve and brown) and then it has a black cable going to a terminal called ON, and also it has a bridge between live and a terminal called COM. I was thinking to connect the neutral and live to the wifi thermostat, to bridge the live with terminal 4 in the wifi thermostat and then to have the black in terminal 2. However i have seen that your thermostat had a neutral and live but perhaps didn't have 240v in that live?
@@tomcatRTY hi, my wifi thermostat installation: I have permanent L and N from the programmer for wifi thermostat. my wifi thermostat has a control switch(relay contact): one connector of this switch is connected to the boiler and the other connector is connected the the switched Live from the programmer. the permanent L and N provide power to the wifi thermostat. you can think by install this smart thermostat is equivalent to adding a switch between the programmer and boiler. safety first and good luck!
@@RepairDIY thanks for your reply. Does this mean that when your timer is not on the thermostat would not have power? Or the wifi thermostat has power regardless of the timer if it's on or off?
@@tomcatRTY the smart thermostat has the power all the time regardless the timer is on or off. the two switches of the timer and the smart thermostat are connected in serial: power live ---> timer ---> smart thermostat ---> boiler. good luck!
Cooling and Heating modes: it depends on the makes and models. some thermostats can only be used for heating and some models can be used for either heating or cooling. You could check the descriptions / instructions when buying and installing. have a good day!
This smart thermostat has a dry switch, which is good for many applications. If you can find the wiring of the built-in thermostat of a split AC system, you should be able to wire this smart thermostat into a split AC system. Good luck!
Hi i need help with my wifi thermostat. I only have the red and the blue wire from the old thermostat. Where do connect the other to wires at the CV. I saw that you connected them to number one and two. Red is number four and blue is nummber 3. Where do number 1 and 2 go to
hi, your two wires from old thermostat should be connected to 1 and 2. Then you should connect 3 and 4 to permanent Neutral and Live. Safety first and Good luck!
@@RepairDIY ok. The neutral and live are the two wires from the old thermostat. I don’t have the other two wires. So my question is where do i connect the other 2 wires in the boiler? I already saw the connection for 1 & 2 at the thermostat.
@@raoulfelter if the two wires were connected to your old thermostat, the blue should not be the permanent Neutral, and the red may not be the permanent Live! If you cannot decide if the red is permanent or switched Live, the easy way is to connect the two to 1 and 2, then find and add the permanent Live and Neutral for 4 and 3. Hope this help. have a good day!
Hello i have a thermostat like this one but i want to connect it to gas boiler. Can i? I connect on 3-4 L-N and the other two wires to 5-6 for gas boiler. It works but my heat never stop, i turn off the thermostat and the heat is still on. Whats wrong with it? On 5-6 the 2 wires have electricity
@@kostasgkvo4064 hello, your thermostat may be different from the one in this video? For this thermostat, there should be no voltage at the terminal 1 and 2 if no wires connected to them. If your thermostat has the same wiring diagram, and you have voltage at either terminal 1 or 2 or between them when no wires connected to them, then the thermostat should be faulty. The terminal 1 and 2 makes a DRY switch, not connected to any other wire inside the unit. When you need heating, the terminal 1 and 2 are connected inside the unit while you don't need heating, the terminal 1 and 2 are separated inside the unit. Hope this info help. Good luck.
@@kostasgkvo4064 hi, wait! how many boiler wires do you have ? One or two? if two, just connect them to 1 and 2. if one, you should find out what is required to control the boiler with that one wire, only after that you can decide your jumper connection. good luck.
Please make sure you 100% understand your boiler system before starting your installation! To help you know your system better, I am trying to provide some info below and hope useful. Old two-wire thermostats could be mechanical thermostats which need no power and act like a switch. If this is the case and your new smart thermostat has the same wiring diagram like shown in this video(at 2:30), I think you should connect the two wires from the old thermostat to the connector 1 and 2 (either way) of the new smart thermostat. You should also find a way to get the permanent Neutral and Live wires to the new smart thermostat and connect them to the connector 3(N) and 4(L) of the new thermostat. Carefully understand and plan your job before starting it. Safety first and wish you a success!
@@goodawindi a bridge can be made with a short wire connecting two terminals on the thermostat but you must make sure which wires you are connecting. One of the two wires on your old thermostat could be permanent Live but you have to find out by testing. Whatever wires they are, it is safe to connect them (black and grey from your old thermostat) to terminal 1 and 2 (of your new smart thermostat). You do need permanent Live and Neutral wires for Terminal 4 and 3. Good luck!
hi, the only blinking happened to me was when the thermostat was in setup mode, when you setting up the wifi name and password via your mobile phone. You could check your wifi connection or set up the thermostat again? good luck!
