After a lot of testing I do think this is the best way to set gains, get one here: lddy.no/12t66. But an O-Scope is an affordable alternative: amzn.to/3urTwzo.
Yes, I bought the SMD DD1 sorry for not being so clear. There’s nothing I change while using the DD1 to the amp, even if you’re bringing it down to a 1ohm load you still test it the same
I really enjoyed this video thank you for that. I have a DD1+ and have used it to set a few amps gain level. I like the tool even though I don't use it much but I do run a youtube channel my self and have been debating on getting an AMM-1 for my channel to see what those JL Audio C7 speakers are actually tolerating watt wise, I've been getting alot of backlash from people telling me that they do tolerate their power but from my testing using math I was able to get no wear near close what JL says those expensive speakers can do and on my channel I want to save people money by telling them the truth about whatever gear I have and let them know is it worth the hefty price or not. I can't find a good alternative to the AMM-1 hahahaha. Anyways I freaking love your knowledge and I wish more people were like you even if others get mad at us for just being honest.
@@DIYAudioGuy exactly! 😎👏👏👏 I wish more people would know that so when a manufacturer tells you they can handle a specific wastage they really can't do, consumers won't buy into that nonsense.
I found a great way set my gains I ordered a teampie 2000.1 with a clip limiter button , you press it and amp will not. Clip at all no matter where you set the gains $283 shipped I hope this feature catches on to other amp companies. And thank you sir for the video great content as always
Keep in mind, the DD1 does not light up when the signal “clips”…. The DD1 lights up when it detects THD which is always a hair BEFORE clipping. Pretty much the same as a “Certified & Uncertified Dyno run”
I may end up getting a DD1. I started getting into building amp kits. I enjoy soldering them together and then power testing them. You make a good point that clipping and distortion aren't the same thing. I've put some amps together that don't clip but sound terrible. I was looking at getting a bench top THD meter and they are like 6K which is crazy. This is pretty reasonable for what it does. I could use this and the scope together to get the most accurate power measurements.
Quick question for ya please. When setting your signal from your head unit with the dd1, you have to make sure everything is off correct like the high and low pass filter and eq and the bass control off on the radio. I just want to make sure I’m doing this right. Thank you and keep up the great work 💪
Correct. Some radios will have a subwoofer level control and separate RCA outputs just for the subwoofer. Depending on the way the radio is set up, you'll want that one turned all the way up.
@@DIYAudioGuy thank you, I do have a separate one for the subwoofer as I’m using a sony ax 3200. I wasn’t sure about the subwoofer. Now after I set everything up do I still leave everything else off or can I adjust them after like the high and low pass filter on the head unit. I apologize for the questions. I’m still learning a lot and I appreciate everything you do. Keep up the great work my friend 💪
Going sound quality I'm buying a 2k to use at 1400rms. But I get it ,most try squeeze every last watt out no matter what they get instard just buying bigger and using only what you need
Hello Steve, Can you do another Video with Gain Overlap, using a DMM, DD1 W/ Test-CD and DD1+? Want to see if the Voltages match using all 3. Also do you have any more SMD Tools you can do Videos on? Haha, thinks! ✌🏼😀
Could you please do a video on Polyfill. Please. I just removed a huge clump from my 15 inch sealed Kicker Solobaric box. Just to see what the difference is. It sounds better to me. Seems to hit lower now. Sounds like .. wait for it. A BIGGER BOX!
I did notice the same thing with the dd1 and jp8 clip light. the clip light coming on a little sooner than the dd1. I’d rather be on the safer side if I’m already tuning to -5db -7.5db ish
Ithink I would trust the dd1 since it looks for harmonics and it's calibrated against an actual Audio Precision test gear. I'm sure the JP amps clip detector works well but unless you bench it and compare it to an actual precision piece of equipment it's all still a dummy light from an overseas amp build house. Those amps are damn sexy though and put out hella power. I'm sure either way you are ok. Even if one light clips right before the other, how much of a power difference is it really. And also take into consideration the media in which the system is being tuned with. As soon as you use another source you might be clipping either way. I guess that's where the JP controller clip light may actually shine
@@angelvip2474 you understand. Most don’t understand that the clip light on the amp is what the amps peak voltage is on the output transistors. Not for reading distortion. If that was the case, amps would cost (the DD-1+ cost) on top of the amps cost. Or worse, the price of the THD (total harmonic distortion) analyzer plus the cost of the amp.
Great video I have a SMD DD1 i’m new to this. My question is on my subwoofer amp. It is a Roswell1000.1. That I run 1000 W at 1 ohm It’s 4 ohm @500 wats When I’m using the dd1 I still set it on the positive and negative there’s no way to set it to the 1000 at 1 ohm. Whenever it shows the distortion that will do the same when I have it parallel down
The technical answer is a bit long and I should probably do a video on it. But the short answer is you will be just fine. If the lights not on then you're not distorted.
I have the JP8. Should I be avoiding any flickering of the clip light, or welcome some flickering and avoid constant light. I find myself lowering the volume to disappointing bass levels to keep that darned clip light happy.
What I haven't understood yet is you find your head unit distortion with a flat eq. After you set your desired eq after completing the steps want that change the volume of the distortion?
Now, as you mentioned on other vids, to 0 out all levels on the radio, treble, bass, mids, to set the gains on an amp. So, once at 0 can I go back and add say more mids or treble once the amp gain is set? Or do I just leave it at 0 for all?
I read and seen articles that it's better to keep the subs connected when setting gain because when the amps sees this load, there's a voltage drop on the rails on the amp which affects the level of the gain. So do you think it's necessary to set gain with or without subs connected?
One question! I'm resetting the Taramps smart 3k right now. I have the monitor for it plugged in, have my VM and DD1+ to do so. Everything is set to flat, RCA BASS KNOB... Do I turn all the way down or all the way up??? I can't remember! Please help?
I'd like one to play around with but it's hard to justify. I have been trying to only buy amps with clip lights so the old school ones are all I'd really need it for and they aren't used regularly
Buying amps with clip lights only protect the amp. Doesn’t protect your speakers from distortion. You don’t want clipped distortion, or distortion in general.
Hello I recently got a dd1+ and when I play the test tone in not seeing the test tone. It's's showing around 3 volts with my head unit all the way up. I've emailed damoreengineering and smd but I'm not getting any response. Any suggestions
Dear Mr DIY, i have tried my best, but i cant find SMDDD1+ anywhere online, so i wanted to request you to suggest how can i buy SMDDD1+ , i am from India..thanks
@@DIYAudioGuy I’m with you on honesty. Thing is, people don’t understand the difference between distortion and clipping. I think a video of the difference between the two need to be done. If people knew the difference, they would understand the cost of the devices. They are just a small version of a $1,000 plus bench harmonic distortion detector in your hand. Clip lights on amps aren’t distortion detectors. They are only peak rail voltage meters, so you don’t burn coils, or worse, overheat and burn up your amp.
Oh I have a great idea for you then YOU go ahead and do some things that will make Steve happy or that he will like ... As a matter of fact call him up and see if he'll let you have a sleepover at his pad!
You misunderstood, i dont care what steve meade thinks just commenting on his fragile ego when people criticize his products. The laughing smiley face implied the sarcasm in the comment...
Hi I just picked up a Dd1 plus. If I’m using the kicker test sine tones. They only have 50 Hz will this show up on the digital screen And read that or does it have to be 40 Hz
So, I am using a factory radio and its hooked to a pac amp pro ty13 to give me rca outs. It does 4v and 5v preout. I also have a DSP. So, how would I start to properly test all of these? Would I zero out headunit find the volume it distorts at? Would I set all the other stuff neutral as well? How do I test distortion for the Pac Amp pro and etc?
I just ordered the DD1 Plus. So id hook them to sub amp and neutralize my DSP and my line out converter and same with headunit or what? New to this tuning stuff @DIYAudioGuy
@@OfficialCPProduction I really need to do a video on it, it's just kind of hard to make it interesting. I've got some footage that I guess I should go through. The basic idea is you want to find out where the head unit rcas clip and be just a small here under clipping, then do the same thing with everything in between the head unit and the amplifiers. I think you can just hook right up to the amplifier and you should be able to do it that way, but I typically hook up to the head unit at RCA's, then the DSP, then the amp.
@DIYAudioGuy makes sense. So I am using factory radio which I know kills quality some but it's a 2018 camry with jbl system and birdseye. So I had to get a pac amp pro ty13 that hooks directly to radio and gives me 4v or 5v pre out with a gain knob.then it goes to a dsp then amp. Just confused how I should go about using factory unit plus the line out converter
@@DIYAudioGuy So, would I neutralize the headunit, dsp, and the line out converter? Tune the headunit to below clipping then start at the line out converter? Then go to dsp then amp last? Since its in that order?
Question I had an issue I’ve notice when setting the gain on the amp id like to get some clarification on. I have a CXA1800.1 and while playing the 40hz test tone at max volume and bass knob maxed. I set the gain on the amp and noticed at about 30/40% the Distortion light would come on but then it goes away with increased gain at about 50% and then comes back on solid around 75% and stay on. Any idea what would cause this . I’m running the RCA from the aftermarket head unit which is android based.
Mine does the same thing. The device is auto-ranging and the light will flick on for a second when it switches between ranges. I feel like Steve mentioned that in the video somewhere but I can't trace down the video.
I have the cc1 and dd1. Works great for amps. DSP is another animal. You don't have to verify tuning the crossover. You just set the frequency and slope
to setup a DSP you have to make sure all signal into it is flat and clean undistorted. Then to tune, you must use a RTA to adjust to the sound in the environment your speakers are in, as well as the placement of your microphones listening position. The CC-1 is used to set your crossovers and with its special feature, you can gain match all your Channels so you have equal power from all channels. Pink noise at 0db is the most accurate sound to play to set your EQ bands. Also, you never want to have to boost an EQ band. If you have to, you never want to exceed a 3db boost, otherwise you could run into distortion when at max volume.
@diy audio guy, if my headunit only has one subwoofer preout do I have to use an RCA y splitter or could I just take one RCA like from the headunit sub pre out into either the left or right input RCA at the subwoofer amp?
You just need one. You can buy single strands. They usually labeled as video cable or as a subwoofer cable designed for home stereo use. But it's mostly all the same stuff.
It is not a function of the brand. More overlap increases the chances of clipping on real world music, less overlap means less power and thus not as loud.
@@DIYAudioGuy gotcha I have 2 15 Jl audio w0 on a Rockford fosgate amp and at first I tuned it to -10 db then it was way too much bass then I turned it down to 0db didn’t sound like getting too much power then I did -5db and it was better
